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About jeffrow68

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  1. I have the Fox Podium and 150R forks on my 230 and I am really loving them. I did have the Heibo modded shock and Triplett forks on my last 230 and they worked well for trail riding whereas my current setup allows me to push my bike a lot harder. With that said, Baja Larry raves about the XR400 forks and XR250R shock on one of his 230’s, and I think this is an easy and relatively inexpensive swap, and also offers the possibility of more ground clearance if desired. He has several threads discussing the XR conversions.
  2. I just bought a jug of the mobil1 so haven’t tried it yet. I will give it a test and let you know if there are issues.
  3. Thanks for posting the article, it was very informative. I opted for the Mobil1 0W40 since it was readily available and only $4/qt ($22/5qt jug). I like the higher thermal breakdown temp of the Mobil1 and since I see these engine temps regularly I change oil every other ride. I would like to try the Amsoil also, but have not got around to ordering any yet. Very good read for sure.
  4. Lots of info flying around about CR. What would you guys estimate the CR will be on my bike with 67mm BBR piston, 4mm stroke crank, squish approximately .035 with the thinner base and head gaskets? I have easy access to race gas so I will probably mix 2 gallons of 116 with 3 gallons of 92 non-eth gas. 116 octane because they are all around $10/gallon from 100 all the way to 116.
  5. Thanks for the reply MM. How do I measure piston to valve clearance? I would like to check this after I install the thinner gaskets.
  6. I measured my piston and it is .035 down in the bore. I have a base gasket that is .020 thinner so that should leave me at .015 below the deck. Is this a good place or should I go with no gasket? i also measured the BBR copper head gasket and it is .050 which is pretty thick. The one I got from Terry is .016 which is .034 thinner, that should be a nice boost in compression.
  7. i made a stand for the motor out of a 2X4 which happens to be the same width as the boss on the rear bottom of the case. I used some small angle to secure the engine to the board, took about 15 minutes and cost nothing. I very much recommend securing the engine while working on it. secondly, I made two piston stops, one from a spark plug and the other from a compression tester adapter. Both worked equally well, no additional cost to make. additional pics of the degree wheel and the piston dome, sitting 0.035 down in the bore. To attach my degree wheel, I bought a longer bolt and some washers to give the wheel clearance from the shift shaft. The thread pitch is 10mm by 1.25 fine pitch if you need to get one.
  8. So I had a nice discussion with Web Cams today and they are super helpful. Good news and bad. Good: My cam is not far off at all, since I am at 99.5/107, I can retard the intake lobe to 101 and that will move the exhaust down to 105.5: 101/105.5 is very close to advertised 102/106. Bad: I am already suffering from low bottom end torque and this move will result in less bottom end. Dammit. I was hoping this was the other way and I could advance it to shift the power down. Not so. I am going to bump up the compression and see how that works out. I measured my piston today and it is sitting exactly 0.035 down in the bore. It does have a nice dome (BBR 67mm piston) so I will have to be careful with clearances. I haven’t pulled the jug yet, but I’ll will measure the compressed thickness of the installed base gasket to compare to the new paper gasket I made at 0.010. After I get the thinner base gasket and thinner head gasket installed, I will recheck the cam and set it up slightly advanced like it is now and hope to get some low end improvement with the higher compression. For longer term, I am going to get an ST1.5 and see how that compares. After reading through some older threads, it seems a common complaint that the 2.0/2.5 Cams suffer from low end losses. Everyone that has used a 1.0/1.5 absolutely loves them. That is what everyone expects, drop in a higher compression piston and a performance cam and it should really transform the 230. It is very frustrating to do these things and actually lose usable low end power. I keep adding more and more parts and trying different combos to make it work for me, but I think I have the wrong cam profile. Dammit again. Thinking back to my last 230 (that got stolen) I put in a std bore wiseco 10:1 piston and a 40/MC402 cam and it was a beast on the bottom to mid range. I just wanted more power on this build so I went with the bored/stroked route and 2.5 cam. My bone stock 230 still out performs my modded bike everywhere but the mid to top end. At least I know it is not me doing something wrong, choosing a bad parts combo, etc because I have tried and tested everything so far.
  9. Ricky, how close was your cam to the advertised specs? Such as wher the LC’s are and duration from .05 to .05. Got the ST2.5 I am supposed to have 102/106 and I measured 99.5/107. Duration was supposed to be 237/234 and I measured 235/228.
  10. I am most definitely struggling with dismal torque so I keep my bike at a higher rpm where there is more power available, so maybe on to something here. I should have used the other method to check center lines but I already pulled the 2.5 cam out to slot the gear. I am going to install the 2.0 that I have and see how it measures up. I talked to Terry about my numbers with the 2.5 and he said it should be a real screamer on top and no bottom, exactly what I am seeing. He advised to recheck again which I will do, and then send back to Web if it is really off but he hasn’t seen one off that far yet.
  11. OK, so I finally got around to degreeing my ST2.5 cam today. I used the directions from Web Camshafts, and I checked and rechecked the results and math several times. Here is what I found: ST2.5 Advertised Measured Intake Valve 237@.050 and 102LC 235@.050 and 99.5 LC Exhaust Valve 234@.050 and 106 LC 228@.050 and 107.5LC I have not slotted my cam gear yet to set the intake LC yet, but if I move it 3 degrees to get closer to 102, will that move the exhaust from 107.5 to 105 or to 110?
  12. So, I got snowed in today in south Louisiana (stupid global warming) so I decided to follow Ricky’s lead and make a new base gasket. The OEM was .03” and found some .01” stock and made this one. i did contact Cometic and ordered a stainless rubber coated base gasket at .01” thickness, for $6 I couldn’t go wrong. I will try my homemade gasket until it arrives.
  13. Thanks Rickey, I like that idea. Any issues with the oil port on the Manila folder gasket leaking?
  14. That is the one that I bought and it fits perfectly. It works for a multitude of bikes.
  15. Go outside, I have been through the same quest so I will try to outline what I have experienced: A few years ago I bought a basket case 230 that I completely rebuilt, it needed everything so I installed the HC piston and a Web MC40/402 Cam (can’t remember the exact name but it’s the same that Vortec has). That bike had amazing low end torque and would wheelie at will. That combination worked great with an uncorked bike and pro com ignition. That bike got stolen. I started a new project last year and have been going all out on mods to make this 230 my primary bike. I have the Fox Podium shock , CRF150R forks, all kind of goodies to lighten and help ergos. For the engine I used the 4mm stroker Crank, a BBR 67mm piston, ST2.5 cam, I had the head ported by Terry, all new valve train components, etc. I initially had the stock PD carb with an Engines only exhaust system. I did a bunch of back to back testing against a stock uncorcked 230 and there was not much difference in performance. The stock bike had way more bottom end torque, and my modded bike had a little more mid/top end. Not much to show for over $1K investment in engine parts alone. I switched to a PD pumper carb and also to a pro circuit exhaust system, and added a procom box. these additions worked very well with my parts combo. The pumper carb provided a nice low end boost that was missing with the stock carb. I like the pro circuit exhaust stepped header very much compared to the loud EO system. The bike pulls very well off the bottom, and has a very strong mid range where I spend most of my time. I am not a high rev’er so no real data there. I am not finished yet! I just got a thin head gasket from Terry and I plan to install very soon to bump up the compression. I also procured all the tools necessary to degree in the cam. I am trying to squeeze all the performance out of the bike and not leave anything on the table. I think I have the right cam for my riding style since I spend lots of time in 3rd gear riding in the mid range. Personally, I don’t think the ST2.0 is going to give you the low end grunt compared to a stock bike, I have been there and it doesn’t. I do agree with others that you need to upgrade the carb, it is holding you back for sure. My advice is to invest another $200 and get an ST1.5/1.0 then sell your 2.0. You should almost break even, and will be much happier with the low end power that you desire.