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Drtbikerider250

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About Drtbikerider250

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    TT Silver Member

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    Redneck0113
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    Redneck0113@hotmail.com

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  • Location
    Louisiana
  1. Drtbikerider250

    Riding with contact lenses

    Thanks for all of the feedback. It's very helpful to hear from others who are riding using contacts since I have no idea what to expect. I go in tomorrow morning for an appointment to get setup with a free trial and to learn how to put them in and take them out. It's roughly a month before I will have the opportunity to ride again, so that should be enough time to get used to them.
  2. I've recently gotten glasses for long distance vision that help a good bit for things like driving. I am planning very soon to get contact lenses to replace the glasses though and was wondering if I can expect any issues or problems with them for offroad riding. I've never had glasses or contacts at all until the past month or two, so I have no idea what to expect. Thanks for any feedback.
  3. Drtbikerider250

    Gaerne/Alpinestars sizing difference

    it sounds like I might need to go a size down on the SG10's. I have kind of a wide foot, so I usually end up with shoes too long that are the right width. my tech 8's were the same... I got the smallest size that didn't squeeze the sides of my feet.
  4. Great suggestion. I would have never though of that otherwise. I will have several days to work on it if needed, so pulling the bowl shouldn't be a problem. If I remember correctly, it's pretty easy to get off anyway. as requested in an earlier reply, here is an older picture of the bike from a few years ago. it was still pretty new when this was taken.
  5. I'll see about getting a picture when I get a chance to take one. I'm currently several thousand miles from the bike (in the UK). I'm just making a list of things a week or so ahead of time to try not to miss anything. checking for loose bolts is also going on the list thanks for the suggestions Edit: Part of what I said didn't make sense
  6. thanks for the feedback. I figured I would miss a few pretty obvious things. I've added both coolant and tire pressure to my list of things to look at
  7. I've been on hiatus from riding for about a year and a half now but will be getting the chance to take the bike to the woods soon. What things would you check on or do to the bike before riding it? Everything was in good condition when I put it away, but I don't want to make the mistake of assuming it's ready to ride without some work. I'm planning to check the following: 1. air filter - to make sure it isn't falling apart, is clean, and oiled 2. change transmission oil (just a precaution... it was changed before being stored) 3. check/replace brake pads 4. make sure all leftover gas is drained (there shouldn't be any, but I will check again) 5. check bearings (wheels, steering stem, linkage, etc.) 6. check for leaking fork seals Is there anything I've missed?
  8. I'm looking to buy a pair of Gaerne SG10s in the next couple of weeks, but unfortunately I don't have anywhere to go to try them on before purchasing. I wear size 10 in alpinestars, but am not sure if it would be the same for SG10s. If anyone has worn both brands and knows how the sizing differs (or if it differs at all) I would really appreciate some input. Thanks in advance for any help. Tommy
  9. Drtbikerider250

    What is a good premix

    I've used super techniplate too for a couple of years in my 200exc and yz250. it protected the engine fine, but left a little more carbon behind than i liked. I would still be running it today if the place i bought from ever had it in stock when i needed it. klotz is fine, along with about any of the other oils that have been mentioned. as others have said, everyone has different opinions on which oil is best. Currently I run mobil MX2T and like it. I've also used silkolene comp 2 and klotz super techniplate with no problems.
  10. Drtbikerider250

    Tips for 2006 YZ250 New Top End

    There's really nothing special to know about doing the top end on the yz except to get the correct piston if you're going back with oem stuff. your cylinder is marked on the back which will tell you which one you have (A,B,C, or D). Honestly I'm not even sure if it matters too much though because I've read where others have used a different one without a problem. Personally I'll probably go back with wiseco next time because it seems that more people like them. Just remember to check everything while it's apart... look at the cylinder to see if it's in good shape, check the crank bearings, etc. The PV was a little tricky to get back together correctly, but the manual shows enough pictures that it is pretty clear how it is supposed to go back together. The tricky part was just getting it all in the right place and bolted down (could just be me though since I'm not much of a mechanic). I also find it helpful to watch pay attention when taking everything apart so you can remember how it goes together... depending on how complicated the job is, I sometimes take pictures step by step as the bike comes apart to refer to on reassembly.
  11. Drtbikerider250

    Keep CR250 or get 250SX???

    agreed... suspension is the best money you can spend to mod a bike. I had a 2004 200exc and had it revalved and sprung, and it was a completely different bike. The CR only has 15 hours... you already have a new bike. I do understand wanting a new bike, but I have ridden a 2000 cr250 and you already have a good bike.
  12. Drtbikerider250

    2006 Colorado problems... again

    Forgot to add to the post at the beginning... the light comes on and goes off for several days at a time. it will come on and stay on for 2 or 3 days, then will go off for anywhere from a day or 2 to a week at a time. At first it seemed that it was coming on when I was doing alot of city driving while around college, but going off when I hit the highway to go home. it hasn't been 100% consistent with that, but that's generally how it's going. it's a 2006 4 cylinder colorado 2.8 liter with 54K miles. extended cab 2WD work truck model. the only other info on the printout from autozone that I have is at the top... it says "troubleshoot P0171". the letter that came in the mail said that the valve guide problem would be covered up to either 80K or 100K miles. I also Found another dealer that would run diagnostic for $45 instead of the 85 at the dealer I visited today. I didn't care to go back to this guy anyway... he didn't act like he wanted me in his office.
  13. Drtbikerider250

    YZ 250 vs KTM SX250

    I can't really compare the 2 bikes since I've never been on a 250sx, but I do have a 2006 yz250, my brother has a 2006 cr250, and i've been on a 2005 kx250. based on what I've seen of the different 250 2 stroke mx bikes is that they all make great woods bikes. out of the 3 i've ridden, the yz has the best motor, but the kx and cr handle slightly better. I've heard/read nothing but good things about the ktm and suzuki as well. Like everyone else has said... pick which one you can get for the best price, or whichever you like the best. here is a list of what we've had to do to get both the honda and yamaha ready for the woods: hand guards rad. guards o-ring chain skid plate pipe guard new springs (yamaha only - lighter rider) stock valving in both bikes is great for the woods. alot of people like a FWW on them, but personally I like the way the engine is in stock form. it takes a little getting used to so you don't stall in tight sections, but it's not hard to deal with. I rode a bike with a 13oz. fww and didn't care for it. I also rode one with a 6oz (i think) and it was alright. I liked the motor with the smaller weight, but not enough to buy one... it was one of those things that I could do with or without and it really made no difference to me. I know I didn't really answer the original question, but it may be something worth thinking about when looking for a 250 motocross bike.
  14. it's been idling rough for a couple of years now, but so far the light hasn't come on with an engine problem until now. I took it to autozone and they plugged their computer thing up to it and gave me this description: Fuel trim bank one condition Explanation The powertrain control module uses the oxygen censor to calculate the Air/Fuel ratio of the engine. the computer has recognized a rich or lean condition on one engine bank only. Probable cause 1. - if bank one and two codes set together suspect fuel pressure or MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor 2. - Oxygen censor defective 3. - Ignition misfire-repair 4. - Fuel injector problem Several months ago I got a letter in the Mail from GM stating that the valve guides are no good, will cause rough idle, and the engine light to come on. After getting this description from autozone and the letter from GM I took the truck to them. The service guy told me that there is a flat rate of $85 to diagnose the problem, and if it's covered under warranty or recall that it will be covered. If the diagosis leads somewhere else then I'd be charged $85. at this point I'm not sure what to do... I suspect that the problem will be covered, but I don't have $85 for the dealership to tell me I need an oxygen sensor or that my gas cap isn't screwed on tight enough or some other junk like that. I guess what I'm trying to figure out is if the description given at autozone would be the valve problems covered under the extended warranty, or if I'm wasting my time with that. I appreciate any responses/advice that anyone can give.
  15. Drtbikerider250

    Convince me... please

    You won't regret a KTM.. I just sold a 04 200exc today, and I'm currently on a 2006 yz250 while I personally like my yamaha better, I really can't say anything bad about the ktm. I had alot of fun on it, and it held up great. both the yamaha and the ktm are exceptional quality... some people say KTM is better and others bash them. really, they're just different. it will take a ride or 2 to get used to the feel of the ktm, but you'll like it. I'm not brand loyal to any company... i buy whatever bike suits me best at the time. right now I'm on a yamaha, but I wouldn't hesitate to get another ktm. the only thing stated here that I disagree with is parts cost... I did spend a little more on parts for the ktm than for the yamaha. if you buy aftermarket, then that may not be the case, but for OEM stuff ktm is a little higher. either way I wouldn't let parts cost change your mind. it's not a big enough difference. Some of the people posting about the price may also know a way to get parts cheaper than I ever did... i'm just sharing what happened with me. There is a reason that the vast majority of the bikes in the woods are orange... they build a good bike and they cater to the offroad riders. I went on a group ride a few months back where there were probably 75-100 bikes and probably 3/4 or more were KTM.
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