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About up4speed

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    TT Bronze Member

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    New York
  1. up4speed

    Would it be poser-ish of me? SM decals on S

    When I hear "SM", I think a style of motorcycle, not a Suzuki model designation. If your bike is actually an SM, (ie. Street tires etc.) then it's a supermoto, and the sticker would be appropriate.
  2. up4speed

    Finally caught the water pump blues.....

    I've had that leak on and off since it was new. It seems that the more I use the bike, the less it leaks. If I use it at least once a week, it doesn't leak. If it sits for a while, I will get a few drops initially, when I first start it. I have tried the RTV fix twice, both failed within 300-400 miles. I then changed all the pump components, that failed in about 600 miles. I basically gave up on it at this point. I never had to add coolant because the leak is so minor, so I'm just ignoring it. Like I said though, if I use the bike often, it doesn't leak at all! If yours leaks really bad, I would just replace the pump parts and call it a day. I know others have had better luck with the RTV fix, but I'm starting to wonder if the problem isn't the pump at all, but actually the engine casting that holds the pump shaft. I got beaten down by it, and I'm living with the issue for now.
  3. up4speed

    Stock Seat Strap Mounting

    What is that strap supposed to be used for anyway? I took mine off right away because it dug into my butt. It doesn't seem strong enough to move the bike around with, and it is in an awkward spot for a passenger to hold on to. I would go flying off if I was a passenger and had to hold that thing in it's off balance position. It would feel like a horse, but it's less substantial than the nub on the horses saddle. Also, a horse doesn't accelerate the same as a bike either. So back to my question again, what in the world is it supposed to be used for?
  4. up4speed

    Ass hurts, seat setups............

    That's what I have also. Seat Concepts with carbon fiber sides, and gripper top. I LOVE IT! I used to get monkey butt in 1/2 hr. Now I can ride for hours!
  5. up4speed

    wave rotors and steel brake lines

    I have the Galfer brand hose. I like it. I got it with a SM kit that I installed. I have a blue bike, and the hose wound up being yellow. At first I was mad and thought it would look silly, but I installed it, and it actually looks cool. Install is very easy, but there are a few points that I would definitely pay attention to. First, make sure that you torque the banjo bolts to proper specs (I think it is 13 ft/lbs, but don't hold me to it)when you install the new hose. Also, make sure you use new crush washers, they should come with new hose. I would remove the tank prior to doing the job because brake fluid damages paint. If it's off the bike, there won't be a risk. Prior to removing my factory hose, I first put a hose on the bleeder and opened it, then pumped the lever until no more fluid came out. I then removed the lower bolt on the hose, and let it drain into a catch can. Once the hose stops dripping, then you can remove the top bolt from the master cylinder with a rag under it. Once the old hose is removed, the rest of the job should be pretty clean. Install the new hose, flush it out with a little brake fluid, then bleed it as per instructions in service manual (if you need help, just ask). You will instantly feel a much firmer, more precise brake lever!
  6. up4speed

    S is for street

    Like everyone else said. You have to decide if you want it better in the dirt, or better in the street. You can't have it all. When I wanted my bike better in the dirt, I put on some case savers, a bash plate, and Dunlop D606's. I was very happy with the outcome. Once I decided to not ride dirt anymore, and make it better for the street, I put on better mirrors that I can actually use, an Acerbis SM front fender (the fender and the mirror change help keep the bike stable at speed), a Seat Concepts seat (awesome) and the Motostrano Supermoto Sportsman kit. The Kit came with Avon Distenzia tires (awesome for street, but not sure about dirt), a Stainless steel brake line (brake lever feels solid, not mushy!), a 320mm EBC brake rotor for extra stopping power, a set of brake pads (I didn't like those, I put on a new set of stock pads (much better)), and a rear sporocket that I didn't use because it would improve the low end hooligan stuff, but it would rev higher at cruising speed. I am also very happy with the street set-up outcome. It rides WAY bettter on the street, and it looks pretty cool also! If you are going to do only one thing to improve the on road handling, I would say to do the Avon Distanzia tires, they make the biggest difference. I was going to do that, but just the tires would have cost me almost $300 installed. For $200 more, I got the brake disk, ss brake line, new pads (that I have to sell) and a rear sprocket (that I have to sell). The EBC rotor alone would have been $200. That's why I felt it was a no brainer to go with the Motostrano.com kit. Unfortunately, it looks like the kit went up $56 (about $556 with shipping). Some of the benefit is gone now. If I bought only the stuff I used, it would be about the same price. The only benefit of the kit now, is the money you can make from selling the brake pads and the sprocket seperately, assuming you don't use them. If you use all the parts, it's still a decent deal. However, I highly recommend that you don't use the DP brake pads if that's what it comes with (it may come with EBC, I don't know how they are). They are way too noisy compared to using the stock pads. Good luck with whatever you choose, don't forget to come here for advice. The knowlegable people here on this board helped me put together my bike so I was extremely happy with it.....TWICE, lol
  7. up4speed

    DR-Z400S sparkplug change

    I'm anal, I use a torque wrench for everything that has a spec for it.
  8. up4speed

    DR-Z400S sparkplug change

    You sir, are correct! I guess I din't really explain fully. First off, I had the proper spark plug socket with the rubber insulator, but for some reason it didn't hold the plug tight enough to install or remove. Second, I shouldn't have used the word "drop". By dropping it hard, you can and probably will mess up the gap on the plug. I inserted it in the tube, then used my finger to guide it slowly down the tube. Once down there I put the socket back on, and gently screwed it in by hand as to not strip the threads. Thanks for the clarification, hopefully I didn't steer anyone wrong!
  9. I used the Galfer hose that came in the Motostrano sportsman kit. I had to run it on the outside of the front fork. I also turned the clamp on the lower end of the shock absorber boot towards the outside, just a little. Then the clamp wouldn't tighten enough when in the proper location, so I took a small square of bicycle inner tube rubber, and shoved it in there so it would hold the brake line nicely while clamped. It now looks and works perfectly. I would post pics, but I don't know how. I can e-mail them to someone if they want to post them for me.
  10. up4speed

    drz 400 expansion bottle

    The humped part I referred to is where it gets bigger. The narrow small section is at the bottom. I'm sure there are some photo's where it is obvious.
  11. up4speed

    Punctured stator cover, need some help

    I would jb weld it, then do an oil change then bring it inside. Then I would order a cover, and case savers to repair it properly at your convenience. I personally would never just leave it with JB weld. Plus, I wouldn't leave it outside either. If I couldn't fix it, I would drain the oil, and duct tape the hole so oil doesnt leak. Then bring it in and fix it properly.
  12. up4speed

    Why would I ride this evening?

    I watch this guy ride, and I can only think of how bad must his hands be tingling? I don't need no stinkin blood flow!
  13. up4speed

    drz 400 expansion bottle

    How are you guys filling the catch bottle? The best I can do (without actually removing the hose, and pouring coolant straight in the bottle) is to warm up the bike, as soon as the expansion tank fills a little, I shut the bike down. Once the radiator cap is safe to remove, I remove it before the coolant is completely cool and siphons the coolant back in the radiator. Then I leave the cap off, so it doesn't siphon back. Once the radiator cools and the level drops, I top off the radiator and close the cap. Now I trapped a little coolant in the tank, and I can keep an eye on the level. It will almost empty when cold, and it will fill up to the humped part when warm. I would like to put a little more in, but don't want to screw with the hoses, so how are you guys filling it?
  14. up4speed

    DR-Z400S sparkplug change

    Congrats on the new bike! I don't know why you had so much trouble with the plug? It's fairly simple with the proper tools. Maybe you didn't have the right tools. You just have to: - remove the seat with 2 bolts. - Remove 2 lower screws from radiator shrouds, and 2 bolts at the base of the tank. - Pull off gas hose and suction hose. - lift gas tank off carefully, as not to scratch it. - Pull sparkplug boot, blow compressed air in there to prevent any dirt from falling in when you remove the plug then unscrew spark plug using a spark plug socket and a short extension. - Use a magnetic pickup tool (let me guess, that was the tool you didn't have! lol) to remove plug from deep spark plug recess. - Gap new plug, use some anti-seize on the threads. Drop it in the hole gently, torque it to the proper torque. - Replace spark plug boot, tank and seat, in reverse order of removal. - hook up all the fuel lines. You're done!! It sounds like a lot of steps, but once you do it once, the second time should be done, start to finish, in less than 10-15 min. without having to curse even once! Good luck, enjoy your new ride!!
  15. up4speed

    Front brake caliper mounting bracket question...

    I hope I made it clear in my prior post. You have to unscrew the 2 mounting bolts that hold the bracket onto the front fork first, THEN slide the caliper off of the guide pins. Don't forget to torque the bracket mounting bolts to 19 ft/lbs and the brake pad mounting pin with the allen key head to 13 ft/lbs. Don't forget to tighten the rotor in a star pattern (I think to 7 ft/lbs) use the proper lock tight on the screws. The Suzuki stuff I used said "high temp, medium strength". By the way, what brake pads are you using? I used the DP pads and I hated the noise they made. They made a very loud buzzing noise. If I stopeed from 30+ mph, they can be heard down the block! I then ordered a set of factory OEM Nissin pads. They make a world of difference. I actually have to pay attention to hear the buzzing noise (very normal). Let me know how you make out.