Old Plonker

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About Old Plonker

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    CRF150R Trail Bike Conversion
    Beta X-Trainer 300

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  1. I googled and this came up. Sort of seems to cover it. I confess I didn't read it all, but what I read seems more lax to me. They cut you more slack if you are small. https://www.law.cornell.edu/cfr/text/40/86.1838-01
  2. As I understand it, the reason Betas run better is that, because of their smaller production volume, they are not held to as high a standard.
  3. CRF250R or CRF450R dual piston calipers with a not-too-expensive adapter work wonders. The sumo crowd goes a step further with oversized rotor, not necessary for dirt.
  4. This looks like a great starter-bike for the little guys: https://dirtbiketest.com/fresh-dirt/new-beta-e-bike-minicross-e/#xUEFYSoceupY7gd1.97 Less than 2 grand with an extra battery.
  5. Hell yeah! Pretty old school, but mother was the necessity of invention.
  6. I don't know how I missed this post in July, but holy xhit, Roon, that bike gives me a woody!
  7. On another build I read about, the guy got extra clearance by substituting low profile bolts (the kind you tighten with an Allen wrench) for the front fender.
  8. Keyed switches are commonly available. All you need is a single-pole, single-throw (on-off) switch. My favorites are the ones where you can pull the key out in both the on and off positions, so that when you are trail riding you don't need a key sticking in the lock. Trace the wire back from the kill switch so that you can wire into it on its hidden end. Tap your wire into the circuit there, and run it to one side of the switch, and from the other side of the switch to ground. It will act as if you are holding the kill switch down, and the bike won't run that way. Like you said, it won't keep a motivated thief from trucking your bike away, and a clever thief will try to cut the switch wire, knowing it's just a ground wire, but the casual joy rider will most likely be discouraged. And it's cheap. EDIT: I forgot to add that the two most common places to add such a switch are on the number plate by the headlight, or (sometimes better) through an exposed surface of the airbox. It shouldn't be easy to access the switch wiring.
  9. Sorry both bikes are in the shop at the same time, but glad you don't have to pull the carb apart. Never thought of it before, but I'm putting Sta-Bil on my shopping list right now.
  10. OK, so I just went back to Jimmy Lewis' Video of he TI ride he did in 2016. His experience was not quite what you describe. https://dirtbiketest.com/fresh-dirt/tour-of-idaho-video/#5G5Pp9gXbgyGP8xb.97
  11. Dude, On the Beta site, under Support is a downloadable parts catalog, and on pages 24 & 25 is a diagram and parts listing for the carb. According to the diagram, there is a pilot screw on the left side of the carb (Edit: part #12). Sometimes the smog nazis require the screw to be covered wth a plug. The dealer is probably right about varnish and crap from bad gas, and it might require a new pilot jet to clear it up because, with the crap gas we pump these days, carb cleaner won't always do the job, although carb cleaner and compressed air together have a fighting chance (but you better be wearing protection, because carb cleaner is some bad xhit to get in your eyes, nose, mouth, lungs, or, hell, even on your skin). Plonker
  12. If it is the crush washer it might cause erosion of the gasket face making a good seal impossible later with a new gasket. If it's any of the other things, it will just be a pain in the ass to keep it running clean. If it were me, I'd chase down he problem and fix it. If you do get into the carb, do yourself a favor and install a flex screw in the pilot circuit. It makes pilot tuning SO much easier.
  13. I'm quoting CRF DOC here: "Decel pop is most commonly caused by a lean condition in the pilot circuit or an incorrectly adjusted fuel screw, a missing o-ring or washer on the fuel screw, a partially clogged pilot jet, a clogged passageway above the pilot jet, or a poor sealing crush gasket at the header can all be causes of decel pop." From this thread: Edit: note that the crush washer at the exhaust port is designed for one-time use.
  14. Kevin Cameron dreams of a 230 lb injected 2t clean enough for the street: http://www.cycleworld.com/ktm-transfer-port-fuel-injection-clean-two-stroke-for-street Edit: I should add that in some states (Colorado being one of them) emissions don't factor in to the plating process, so 2Ts are already able to be made street-legal.
  15. That depends on where you ride. In Colorado, you can ride 5,000 ft to 11,000 ft in a single day. Read the Sean Klinger test in Cycle News (Johnny Depp posted a link a few post up) to get a sense of the difference between the injected Husky and the carbed 300s riding with him in the mountains of Idaho and Montana. As for complexity, I think that concern may be overstated. The carb, even though it's fundamental design is older than dirt, has evolved into a very complex device, and the fact that there are so many jetting threads all over the web attests to that. When you get outside the ideal operating range of the factory setup, you have to learn the internal complexities of the jetting dance. The real question for me is not about trading one kind of complexity for another, but how reliable is it going to be. Years of 4T experience seems to indicate that the answer will be, pretty reliable indeed for all the perceived "complexity." And when it becomes possible to alter the maps, then we can tune the power characteristics of the engine with a quick (I hope) upload of new parameters, just like we can with the 4Ts now. Time will tell.