Old Plonker

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About Old Plonker

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    CRF150R Trail Bike Conversion
    Beta X-Trainer 300

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  1. ...but it IS worn to the point that it will quickly ruin a new chain of any kind. (A lesson I learned a long time ago after ruining not one, but TWO new chains, one after the other in much too quick succession. Young and not too smart!) Check out this article for a deeper understanding of why it is advised to replace both sprockets and chain at the same time: https://www.scottoiler.com/motorcyclechainoilers/xmas/ScottoilerKnowledgeWorkshopv1.pdf
  2. OK, I was on the fence about the rear sprocket, but this c/s sprocket will eat your new chain. Either go with a cheap chain only, which should last a couple of hundred miles (maybe), or a top quality o-ring or x-ring chain and two new sprockets. Actually, forget the cheap chain. Just do it right and get thousands of miles of wear out of the good chain and sprockets. And while you're shopping, get yourself some good chain maintenance goodies and use them frequently.
  3. Just thinking out loud here. Two things are needed: 1) a solenoid to activate the headlight, and 2) a source of DC to power the solenoid that is only available when the engine is running. Just guessing, but you might be able to wire an auxiliary rectifier (and capacitor to filter the noise) downstream of the existing one to power the solenoid. Maybe there are AC solenoids that wouldn't require rectified juice. Have you checked the wiring diagrams of some DS bikes that do what you want to see what parts they use to they disable the lights when the engine stops?
  4. Now this looks like the way to go! I can see reaching over one's shoulder, Ninja style, and whipping out the Silky for light work, or dropping the pack and hauling out the Echo for more serious timber. But when I thought about it, I thought, no way! A chainsaw in my backpack? So I Googled the Echo and did a double take on the weight. They say it's 5.2 lbs. Is that a typo? It's been a long time since I've looked at chainsaws, and that's half of what I used to think was an ultralight. EDIT: I see that is without bar and chain. Still....
  5. From R&D Flex screw instructions: "Spring, washer, o-ring in that order."
  6. If your eyeball engineering is reliable, and you assess that the swingarm is strong enough as is, I would think that just running it would be the least risky path.
  7. Downloads one page of no value whatsoever.
  8. @ccullins, Trials bikes can be addicting. 40 years ago, when I lived in rural NJ, I bought the first TL125 in that part of the world. Within a month, all my city friends who had been trucking their dirt bikes out to the ranch to ride with me on weekends, had bought trials bikes and changed the nature of our weekend rides. We had a 250 Montesa, a 250 Suzuki, 250, 175, and 80 Yamahas, and my TL. (They all lived in my garage so I got to play with them during the week!) We rode super tight deer trails between our challenges (a quarry, rocky ravines, steep-walled rocky stream beds, a massive rock garden, etc.). The dirt bikes hardly ever got ridden after that. Back then trials bikes had vestigial seats that allowed us to make the transfer sections between challenges into super fun go-kart like sprint races. Those were the best riding years of my life, and the cheapest. We flung our bikes through the air, off 15' drop-offs, upside down into frozen creeks, and not much ever got broken, and what did, we usually cobbled back together in repairs that were seldom elegant. Were the bikes pretty? No. But they were always functional. I don't think solo trials practice is anywhere near the fun of shared challenges with like-minded rowdies. How I miss that! Glad you get to do it Chris. So many talented riders in your family, and all grounded in trials.
  9. This sounds like the system @chadzu has been working to get running on his 230 powered XR (last news 5 months ago). Is your bike's harness plug-and-play for the Rojo? What route did you go for the sparky screen? The FMF that Chad used looked pretty simple. The reason for all these questions is, of course, that I'm still on the fence which bike I would get, the E or the R. Other questions remain, also, but the picture is slowly forming of a very solid package.
  10. Thanks for the walk around. This is as close as many of us will get to the bikes for a while. I'm doubly impressed after the close up look. I would think that after 40 hours, if there were anything crappy about the bike it would have shown up by now. So @Roostre, it looks like your bike and @chadzu's are both pre-production models with carbs. How much weight does that save? And what carb is that? Is it easy to jet for your altitude?
  11. Well, since they claim better fuel economy and altitude compensation, you could always try this (and keep your OI, now that there's a TPS on it): And keep it as one. Or did I already say that?
  12. ...except for everything but the motors. Just sayin'....
  13. How would you compare the Lectron to the SmartCarb other than that the Lectron hasn't done the TPS thing yet?
  14. When I wandered in to Apex Motorsports last month I walked right past the '18 XT on the floor and spun around in a double take. It knocked me out it was so good looking. Apex sets their bikes up with real sag numbers, so when I swung a leg over it I almost flatfooted both feet. So much for 35" seat height being too tall for a 31 1/2" inseam. If I wind up with an older used XT, do the plastics all swap out? By the way, I really liked Cody's blue wheels.
  15. An old mill, a block of aluminum, 100 hours of fluid engineering, and 25 hours of whittling and you're good to go. Otherwise, Mikuni or Keihin.