Old Plonker

Team TT
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About Old Plonker

  • Rank
    TT Gold Member

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Colorado
  • Interests
    CRF150R Trail Bike Conversion
    Beta X-Trainer 300

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  1. The sleeping giant has awakened (Dated Nov. 10, 2017): https://www.dirtrider.com/2018-beta-125-rr-first-look Hot news indeed! Ouch! I bit my tongue laughing so hard with tongue in cheek. Seriously: they just found Beta's press release.
  2. Just received an email from Beta showing the 2018 XT. All about the engine (like the RRs with new clutch). No mention of suspension upgrades. Bummer.
  3. It really depends on the weigh and speed of the rider. I bought my bike from a racer who had outgrown the 150. He chose to resort to a Fox shocking and heavier spring in the rear, but just revalved and resprung the front. For a lighter rider who is really fast, the stock units seem to do very well, although a revalve by a competent service is a good option.
  4. Although you can't easily change the plastic, there are some really amazing graphics kits out there that make a huge difference. You can even design your own.
  5. ...and then there are the 200s, a magic number in dirt bike in my opinion (whether 2 strokes or 4, air head or wet) My '81 XR200 was slow (especially at 7-10,000 ft.) but it felt like nothing could stop it. My friend Bob had an IT200 of about the same vintage with serious suspension work and modest, but well chosen engine mods, and it was a ripper that chugged almost as well as my XR, and would flat run away from it when the trail opened up. For years I looked for a clean and affordable little Katoom EXC, 2005 or so, but all I could find was clean or cheap (but maybe not so affordable to get clean), so I have no personal experience of them except for a few test rides which stoked my appetite. I can't count the number of fine 125s I have ridden or owned, but the 200 is to the 125 partly what the 300 is to the 250: it feels a little heavier and less agile, but reverses the fun factor by being a lot easier to keep at a good pace without so much drama. If Beta does it right, keeping the weight low and the size modest, with typical Beta power—if in fact they do build it—I suspect the 200 will be another super hit much like the XT was, maybe more so.
  6. George Bernard Shaw said: "Youth is wasted on the young." I don't think that applies to kids that started riding at 4 or 5 and have 15 years of good experience when they are 20. Life is good, grasshopper.
  7. Yeah, I get that: too young for wisdom to have set in, and too old to want to ride on the pipe all the time. Still need to go FAST all the time (that's what 300s are made for.) I'm in my 80's and can't afford to go faster than my ability to keep the shiny side up (old bones heal really slowly) so a 125 sounds really good to me if it is tuned to have at least enough grunt to run in the low and mid revs at a decent pace. And I'm with Chris: a 125 will start if a butterfly lands on the kicker.
  8. Klinger promised some follow-up to this first ride impression, which is OK: http://www.dirtrider.com/2018-beta-300-rr-first-ride-review But, for some East Coast perspective, see NEGbrap's:
  9. I thought that was it. Good information.
  10. That's the owner's manual. Shop manuals are around, most for a price. Google is your friend.
  11. I don't have any experience with the CRF450X, but went through the same exercise with my CRF150RB, which is notorious for its lack of off-idle response. I did the o-ring mod, the QS3, and as an act of sanity restoration, the R&D pilot screw. I got the pilot and main jets spot on. Better, but still not the joy I was looking for. What did it for me was a flow splitter (an FMF Snap in my case, though there are others). What it seems to do is quell turbulence at small throttle openings by making the flow laminar in the lower half of the carb inlet, increasing flow velocity over the pilot jet. Incidentally, the 150 is also notoriously sensitive to pilot jetting, but with the Snap, no more! I'm not saying it pulls off idle like the Husky (it's only 1/3 the size) but it did make worlds of difference. Might be worth a try. Also, check out this thread:
  12. You must have missed this: "At about 150hrs I serviced the shock. I used 5w Redline synthetic fluid. Set the pressure at 145 psi." This is his reference point, not 300 hrs: "I honestly could not tell the Fox shock worked much if any better than my properly set up Olle shock." At least that's how I read it. Makes a difference. I think it answers the OP's question.
  13. Worked for you, worked for me, should work for the Cap'n, except his is easier since he's omitting the t'stat. Test it with a battery and jumpers to get polarity right, then wire hot to fan, other side of fan to switch, switch to ground. C'est fini.
  14. I googled and this came up. Sort of seems to cover it. I confess I didn't read it all, but what I read seems more lax to me. They cut you more slack if you are small. https://www.law.cornell.edu/cfr/text/40/86.1838-01
  15. As I understand it, the reason Betas run better is that, because of their smaller production volume, they are not held to as high a standard.