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About jkm712

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  1. jkm712

    Riders in PA please Watch!

    It would be interesting to know which 'code' they cited you from. Was it the 'vehicle code', or possibly 'game regulations' ? Can you tell us the code and the section and sub-section of that code that you were cited for?
  2. jkm712

    DR650 Running Rich

    I just got this off of WIKI: Standard on the Mikuni BST 40SS carb is; main 140, pilot 42.5, needle 6F19 clip on 3rd slot (Australian, Canadian and UK needle). All US models use a 6F23 fixed clip position jet needle and a Y-5M needle jet. Seems like you might be looking at the main jet.?
  3. jkm712

    DR650 Running Rich

    If you're sure that the choke is working properly, then the bike should shut down when you turn the mixture screw all the way in. There is some resistance when turning the screw in that can fool a person into thinking the screw is all the way in. But, if you're sure it's the whole way in, then you have too large a pilot jet in the carb. I know that you posted that only the main jet was changed, but...... Fuel Screw/Pilot Jet: If the screw can be turned all the way in and the bike still idles and does not stall, then you need to go down a size in pilot jet. If the screw has to be opened more than 3 turns to get a smooth idle, you need to go up a size in pilot jet. Good luck.....
  4. jkm712

    DR250S - won't rev; stumbles/hesitates

    Turn your fuel screw out 1/4 turn at a time and try revving the bike, and maybe you'll find a spot where it'll smooth out. Sometimes just a quick test that way will tell you if you're experiencing a rich or lean condition. You may have to go back in or farther out than where you have it set now.
  5. jkm712

    left side oil cover

    7602 Racing makes 'replacements' for those oil change bolts. Once on the bike, one wrench fits them all and you don't need the allen wrench any more. I bought the set and can't get over what a huge improvement they are over the stock system.
  6. jkm712

    Just Got a 1990 DR350 (pics)

    Very nice bike. I had a '92 for about 15 years. Mine definitely had a starting procedure: #1 - If the bike had set awhile (week or two) put the petcock to 'Prime'. Hold compression release in and kick bike thru 10 times. If the bike is being ridden once a week or so, go to step #2. #2 - Turn key on. Use the kick starter to find TDC. Once TDC is found, pull and hold the compression release in. Use kickstarter to move piston just past TDC. #3 - Once piston is past TDC, release the compression release, and allow the kickstarter to return to it's highest point. (Allow it to 're-cock', so that you'll get all of it's travel when you kick bike over). #5 - Good hard kick completely thru the kickstarter's travel. If you're sitting on the seat, you're doing it wrong. Stand up and kick completely thru the kickstarter travel. If the height of the bike makes it hard to stand over the bike, find a high spot to put your left foot on so that you can stand up to kick. I suppose each bike might be just a bit different, but that procedure started my bike in one or two kicks for 15 years. The guy who bought my bike had issues at first, when he sat on the seat and tried to give a little 'two-stroke' stab at the kickstarter. Good luck ..........jkm
  7. jkm712

    Windshield question

    Rick -I sent you a pm....
  8. jkm712

    Proper technique for checking the oil on a Suzuki DR350????

    Had a '92 DR350. I always put 2 qts (or just under) in it during an oil change. Then start the bike and run it for a few minutes. Then check the dipstick. I didn't screw the dipstick down in. I just set it in the hole. The bike has to be hot before you'll see anything on the dipstick. I had mine for about 15 years with no problems.
  9. jkm712

    Dr 650 swap meet

    Cee Bailey windshield. $50
  10. jkm712

    Topping off mastercylinder?

    BMF - I don't think you can put the 7602 seal on the oem piston or the oem seal on the 7602 piston, but, I never tried either. I have the oem piston and oem seal in the Zip-Ty cylinder. I found it interesting that when I had all my stuff mic'd, the oem cylinder was not worn and neither was the 7602 piston. In my case, I never really needed to replace anything except for the seals (and the bleeder). But I didn't know that at the time, and went with advice I got from the net..... Actually, a number of us did try to help Bobby, but I think he had already made up his mind about the bike. I think that may work out pretty well for you tho'..... Like Coal Run, and thanks to Clay at 7602, I now have some very good parts on stand-bye if I ever need them....
  11. jkm712

    DR650 gearing

    Dropping one tooth in the front will help, and is a pretty common 'mod'. You will not have to add to your chain. In fact, you'll probably have to move your wheel back to tighten the chain. CS sprockets are cheap regardless of where you buy them.
  12. jkm712

    Topping off mastercylinder?

    My stock unit (07 TE450) lasted about 2,000 miles and I lost the clutch for the first time. I replaced the stock piston with the 7602 unit with x ring seal. Worked good for another 1,000 miles, but then I lost the clutch again. Since I'd only had the 7602 piston and seal in the bike for 1,000 miles, I thought it must be the oem slave unit. So, I ordered the slave cylinder from Zip-Ty. Then I started having a problem like yours. When the bike was cold, I'd have a clutch, but when I'd start the bike, I'd lose the clutch. If I pumped the lever, the clutch would come back and I could ride all day, but after the bike cooled over night, the next day I'd go thru the same issues. And the mc would aways be low, so I knew I had a leak, but had no visible sign of a leak. I couldn't figure out where my mineral oil was going until I saw it inside the engine's sight glass. Zip-Ty had sent a new seal for the oem piston when they sent the slave cylinder, so I swapped the 7602 piston and seal for the oem piston and seal. So, now I have the oem piston and seal in the Zip-Ty cylinder and it seems to be working. I've had the 7602 piston and the oem cylinder mic'd, and neither is showing any wear. But the 7602 seal did show some wear, and apparently that was enough to let some fluid past. But, the oem piston and Zip-Ty cylinder did not work at first and I traced that problem to a faulty bleeder. It was hard to find, because it's near the chain and chain oil gets thrown on the engine cases in that area. But one time, when the bleeder was closed, and while I was pumping the clutch lever, I noticed a bubble come up out of the bleeder. Even closing it 'scarey tight' didn't stop it from leaking, so I got a new one and it seems to be working. Clay at 7602 Racing was a big help in finding the problem, and really stands behind his stuff. Hope this helps with your problem. It can be frustrating.
  13. Also, you wouldn't have receipts for any parts that you had 'on-hand'. Like parts you had taken off of an old junker bike you had sitting in the garage/barn.
  14. jkm712

    Even more clutch issues!

    I've had a couple issues with mine, and after each 'fix', the clutch works for quite awhile. But when it quits, the m-cylinder is always emtpy. I've never been able to find a leak. 1st time I lost the clutch, I bought the 7602 piston. 2nd time I bought a m-cylinder rebuild kit. But, I think I'm seeing something milky on the sight glass. I suspect it's H-fluid, suggesting that I have a leak that is allowing H-fluid to leak into the engine.
  15. jkm712

    Toasted my engine?

    You're welcome. The cam chain tensioner was a long shot, but thought I'd mention it. You describing that 'Clack' sound brought back bad memories. Although, to that little Honda's credit, it 'clacked' all summer long before it got so loud I had to do something about it. Before that, I had never heard of a rod end wearing egg-shaped. Good luck. I hope you'll let us know exactly what it was once you find it......jkm