nstyn8

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About nstyn8

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    Saskatchewan
  1. Unfortunately no. That was my first thought as well. I'm pretty good about draining both the case and the frame before filling back up but thought maybe I had possibly screwed it up. However j double checked and the oil level was correct. Thanks for the help though. I appreciate all the suggestions I'm getting here.
  2. Thanks! I didn't even consider the oil return. I will definitely look into that. As for the geyser, it was... significant. I rewuired a change of clothes and my driveway needed a pressure wash. It probably ejected half a cup of oil or maybe more, instantly.
  3. Hey everyone, I'm wondering if anyone had any ideas as to what is going on here. I noticed that I had oil weeping out around my decompression lever. Initially I had assumed it was the seal going bad. However, I opened my top oil filler plug to check the oil and got sprayed by a geyser of oil. So now I think that system is being pressured up somehow. It still seems to have good compression with no performance issues, but I'll confirm that with compression and leakdown tests this evening. There are no obstructions in any of the vent lines or the canister and air flows freely through all the hoses. There is no oil/coolant cross contamination. Can that really be due to blowby when it still seems to have a ton of compression (at least judging by trying to kick start it). Is there a spot on the headgasket that could allow combustion gasses into the oil system without causing fluid contamination? Last drz headgasket failure I had it was noticeably burning coolant. Is there something else that could cause pressure in the oil like that? I'm really confused. It's a 2009 SM. Thanks for any ideas you might have!
  4. Hey! Thanks! I ended up paying about $22 for shipping. Ridiculous, but whatever. Now I've run into further issues. I'm about ready to just turn this into a boat anchor!
  5. I'm trying to finish up a rebuild on a 2005 RMZ450 that dropped a valve into the cylinder. Damaged head, bent connecting rod, etc. Now it's finally going back together and I find the exhaust cam binds up on me as soon as I get the journal holder tightened down even finger tight. The intake cam spins perfectly find even after the bolts are torqued. What should I suspect is the culprit here? The journal holder? The head? The cam? This engine has a kind of shady history, so that doesn't help. It had a "valve adjustment" done by some backyard mechanic. 20 mins of riding after that, and the valve dropped. During the rebuild I found that the top chain guide was missing which very possibly conmtributed to the valve meeting the piston. Now I've noticed that both journal holders have had heli coils intalled. So at some point I assume someone way overtightened the valve cover bolts, stripping them. Could the heli coil install have warped the journal holder? I'm completely lost, and I'm really beginning to resent the moron that worked on this. No wonder it blew up! I just want this done. Please post any suggestions or theories you may have.
  6. Alright, long story short, I've rebuilt an RMZ450 after it dropped a valve and smashed up the head/piston/cylinder and bent the crank. Upon putting it all together, I realized that it is missing the little tiny rectangular piece of plastic that rides on the cam chain between the two cam sprockets. I'm willing to bet that's why the motor blew up in the first place (The owner tells me it was about 20mins after a valve adjustment was done.). Anyway, I need this part now. It's the only thing holding me back from getting this motor finished. I have a part number: 1278235G00 Lots of people carry this part, its about $8-10. Now my problem is, that everyone wants a minimum of $35 to ship it which is absolutely ludicrous. I mean, it's about 2" x 5/16" x 1/8" and weighs about a gram. I mean, it would ship just fine in a regular envelope. Does anyone know of a parts supplier that would be reasonable and send this to me for less than 4x the part's value? I really want to get this motor together, but this is pure ridiculousness. Suggestions?
  7. So sticky that the valve springs couldn't pull them closed? I guess anything is possible though. I'd definitely add a mechanical tensioner to your shopping list. Would be awful to get it all together and have it do the same thing on you right away.
  8. A valve wouldn't stick open, but it could be open at the wrong time. What does your cam chain tensioner look like now? And was it the original?
  9. I don't know the history of the RMZ I'm working on other that the owner got immediate after a valve adjustment. He put 20mins on it, and dropped the valve.
  10. Yeah man... I'd replace the crank too. Might as well go with a 490cc big bore kit while you're at it. Doesn't cost any more and might as well get an upgrade out of a shitty situation. While the crank still turns, it doesn't mean the connecting rod isn't slightly bent. I'd be surprised if it isn't. And it might not be apparent until you're spinning it at several thousand RPM. I sourced all my parts through ebay seller "dirtparts" (all the bottom end stuff), and oemcycle.com for all the top end stuff. You'll do a little better than me as I had to pay a couple hundred in shipping and customs fees, where you'll be able to avoid most of that.
  11. Unfortunately there will be no cheap way out of this. I'm currently finishing up a rebuild on an RMZ that dropped the intake valve as well. It smashed up the piston, cylinder, and head badly. Bent the connecting rod which seized up the crank too. You appear to have gotten lucky as there is really no damage to the head or valve seats. Just a couple valves. The one I'm working on needs some major repairs to the head. You'll get away a bit cheaper. New crank, piston, cylinder (I'd be surprised if nothing is damaged in the bottom end as that valve would have prevented the piston from getting to TDC, and somethings gotta give... probably the connecting rod.). Your valve seats got away alright by the looks of it (They were smashed all up on the engine I've got). Cheapest route would be just to replace the valve that broke, but while you're in there I'd recommend doing them all. Buy valves, springs, guides and seals and you're likely good to go. But you're not getting out of this for less than probably $1300 or so, and thats providing you're doing your own labor.
  12. Well, bottom end is where I need help, anyway. Grenaded RMZ450. Dropped a valve which smashed up the head, piston, and bent the crank. Been very meticulous and careful throughout assembly. Everything is spotless clean and, I'm 99% sure arranged and installed properly. This isn't the first motorcycle engine I've rebuilt, but it's the first single cylinder like this. Anyway, the problem is, the transmission. I cannot for the life of me figure out what is wrong. I've split the case and tried 4 or 5 times now, and still no luck. The transmission seems to spin and shift through all the gears properly when I've got it assembled in the left half of the case. But once I have the other half of the case on and start tightening it down, the countershaft binds up and stops spinning. The driveshaft still spins freely, as does the crankshaft. Can anyone help me out here? I'm completely lost. All the gears, and shims, shift forks, etc. are in good shape and in their proper position as far as I can tell from the manual. I can't find a lot of info searching various forums. I'll be hugely in debt to anyone who can help me get this sorted! (Oh, and since I see some people interchange the names, by "coutershaft" I mean the one between the crank and the driveshaft. By "driveshaft" I mean the one that holds the front sprocket for the drive chain.)
  13. A friend of mine just dropped a valve in his 2005 RMZ450. Ruined everything. Piston, cylinder, bent crank, valves, head... carnage. Time to rebuild, so just doing my homework before hand. The manual tells me I'll need specific tools, and I'm wondering if I need Suzuki specific tools, or if there is something more universal that works? For a valve spring compressor they list a specific part number. Is there something special about this I'm not seeing, or can I just use one of the normal, C-clamp style spring compressors I already have? For the crank shaft it also tells me I need a specific tool. What tool is this, where would I get it, and does someone have a picture of it? The photo in the manual isn't terribly clear so I'm not sure what I'm looking at. Lastly, it gives a specific part number for a tool to split the case. Same questions as above. Any help here would be appreciated. This isn't my first time inside an engine, but the RMZ is completely new to me. Thanks.
  14. I'm trying to get a 1982 CR250 running. I've got a bad ignition coil, and the original has been discontinued. Does anyone have the specs on it, or know of a currently available alternative? I can make anything that will work fit so direct bolt on isn't a requirement. Thanks!
  15. Hm... Really?! This is the 5th bike I've owned and I've never noticed this! Lol I need to pay more attention (though I haven't had a bike for about 3 years before this one). Ok, well, thanks a lot for the info and the super fast reply! I heart TT.