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Wrathchild

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About Wrathchild

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    TT Member

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    Male
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    Texas

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  1. Wrathchild

    MRD/SSW to FMF Q4/POWERBOMB HEADER?

    The MRD is NOT second to the dual Yosh setup. It makes more. The Yosh system that makes the power is the $700-900 Ti system, not the dual. Completely different exhaust. And even then, the MRD makes the same power.
  2. Wrathchild

    How much difference will a big bore make on my setup?

    I was thinking about saving it for a buddy who has a DRZ with like 40k miles on it (Its TheGardensnake's old bike) and not much money. In case his pops I can sell it to him cheap (50 bucks maybe?) so he doesn't have to buy a $400+ BB kit.
  3. Wrathchild

    How much difference will a big bore make on my setup?

    Is my OEM cyl/piston worth anything? Its only got 5000 miles on it, regular oil changes, full synthetic since 2000 miles. Someone out there has to need a new top end and can't afford a BB kit I figure.
  4. Wrathchild

    How much difference will a big bore make on my setup?

    I went to a 14T front sproket, I can always put the 15 back on. That would be nice for highway anyway.
  5. Wrathchild

    How much difference will a big bore make on my setup?

    Cylinder Works. Should have it next week, going to put it in the week after that.
  6. Wrathchild

    How much difference will a big bore make on my setup?

    Nice! I can't wait. It shipped today supposedly. I think I am going to get a Hot Cams stage 2 intake cam eventually, but for now the stage 1's will have to do. I am sure with the extra displacement they will be worlds better than stock anyway.
  7. I have a 2013 DRZ 3x3 MRD/SSW 39FCR Hot Cams stage 1 in/exh What should I expect when I do the big bore? Is it going to be a WOW change? Or just another incremental change? I would imagine a lot more TQ in the low end and mid range? How much of a higher RPM difference? Basically overall, is this going to be a change that transforms the bike the way the exhaust/carb did?
  8. Wrathchild

    DRZ400SM idle/stalling problems

    tried running on prime, no change. Havent had time to do anything more yet.
  9. Wrathchild

    DRZ400SM idle/stalling problems

    What does running it on prime prove? I will try it, just curious what it tells me.
  10. Wrathchild

    DRZ400SM idle/stalling problems

    I have a 2013 DRZ400SM, here are my mods. 3x3 39mm FCR (bought brand new from Epic) MRD/SSW exh When I had this, it originally ran PERFECT, started with a tiny bump of the starter button. I got crap in the carb a couple times (ran it out of gas) and it never ran 100% right after that, even after cleaning the carb (maybe I didn't get all the crap out?) But it ran PRETTY good. Just not perfect like it did. But it never stalled. The carb was jetted for my setup, by Eddie from Epic. I added Hotcams Stage 1 cams intake/exh From what I read, these should require no valve adjustment. The bike has ~6k miles on it. I counted 15 pins between the dots (well, ON the dots) on the cam chain, and the timing dots were within a couple mm of perfectly level with the head (they would not line up perfectly level with the chain on them, so I split the difference and got them within a couple mm) I don't have a feeler gauge thin enough so I couldn't verify the valve adjustment, but I have read in several places that on the DRZ400, stage 1 hotcams are a direct drop in with no valve adjustments needed, so I didn't worry too much about that. The bike wouldn't even start. I opened the fuel screw up about 3/4 of a turn, and the bike runs/starts. I cleaned the carb, took note it has a 45 pilot jet but I think that should be ok. Right now the fuel screw is at 2 turns out. It seems to want to stall a lot, and is hard to start if I set it at 1.5 turns out. The difference between 2 turns out and 3 turns out, well I can't tell any difference. Basically here is the problem. When I come to a stop the idle does one of two things. It usually hangs. I blip the throttle and it usually stays high. I turn the idle speed knob down a little, and it goes down closer to normal. About half the time after I turn the idle down it then stalls (within a few seconds). Sometimes, it will just die as I come to a stop (normally) . Even if I haven't touched the idle speed, and it had been hanging at the last stop. Sometimes if I just pull the clutch in and let go of the throttle, it dies. Actually it does this a lot. It seems to do it less if I pull the clutch in and blip the throttle quick. I am out of ideas at this point. There seems to be no rhyme or reason to when it will hang or when it will drop and stall. Although it does tend to hang a lot more often. Also, if I stop REALLY hard, like I try to do a stoppie or something, the bike dies every time. Not sure &%$#@! that is about. Its also a bit harder to start. Always. Hot/cold, doesn't matter. It has to crank a bit and I almost always have to twist the throttle a couple times as it cranks. Could a valve adjustment issue cause this? I would think that if it was a valve adjustment, it would be the same symptom, all the time. I would think the same thing about a cam timing issue. So I am left with thinking its something in the carb. But man I have pulled those jets out and cleaned the hell out of them, and I just don't get it. Sorry if I sound completely exasperated, but I am. I am at a complete loss as to what could be causing this.
  11. YZ250F. I LOVE mine for trail use. And reliable as a rock.
  12. Ok I pulled the plug on the bottom of the carb and drained the fuel. There was a tiny bit of black dirt (almost looked like soot/ultra fine sand) in the cap, I blew carb cleaner up into the carb through the drain hoses, and the bike runs a lot better. It isn't perfect yet, but its a hell of a lot better.
  13. Starts easily, sort of hangs a LITTLE, once in a while. Like pull up to a redlight and it idles just a little higher. But again, that is really intermittent.
  14. My bike seems to be "breaking up" and sort of sputtering at 20-30mph when at low throttle, like cruising through my neighborhood. It's a 2013 DRZ400SM, it has a MRD/SSW pipe, 3X3 and an FCR39 that I got brand new from Epic, jetted for my mods. It ran perfect when I put it on, which was about 500 miles ago. Is there any chance I already need to clean the jets? I have run 93 octane in it since day 1 and the bike has never sat for more than a day. I DID run it out of gas though, do you think I sucked in some crap from the tank? Would a brand new bike even have any crap in the tank? Which jet, if any would you suggest I clean? I know different jets handle different things, and it only seems to do this when I am only on the throttle lightly. When I am riding hard its fine, and it seems fine at highway speeds. (maybe a little bit at highway speeds? It doesn't seem noticeable there) Help?
  15. Wrathchild

    Dont drink the Kool-Aid!

    Here is the problem with your $5k in mods. The unfortunate reality is that mods almost never add any value to a used vehicle. Take a $20k used performance car. Put $20k in mods into it, well done, quality mods. You might get $25k for the car, if you are lucky. More likely you will get maybe 22k. So your 5k in mods adds maybe 200-300 to the value of the bike. It sucks, but it is what it is. For some reference, I paid $1750 for my 05 YZ250F and it was in awesome condition. Now, as for the 4 strokes are a ticking timebomb logic, on that, you are an idiot at best. (Don't take that too personally, I am a moron about some stuff too, we all are) Sorry man. Yamaha 4 strokes are some of the most reliable bikes out there, that isn't opinion, its fact.
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