gr4vitas

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About gr4vitas

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  1. Haven't had the time to yank all the plates and fibers yet. Hoping to have the time tomorrow night. I honestly hope at this point that I find that something is strait up missing like the judder fiber or the spring or something. I'll update you asap.
  2. I realize you could just tie a rope through the grab handles, but I was wondering if anyone made a grab strap purpose made for the beta? Something like this but for the unconventional seat connection style of the Beta. https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/839/22967/Highline-Recreation-Tugger-Lift-Strap-Rear
  3. So I've been sitting here brainstorming ideas. I think the clutch pack is fine. I think the master / slave are fine (on account of pressure plate travel seems right). The only thing I can think of is that there was some kind of defect in fiber plate / friction plate dimensions from the factory, or something funky with the judder plate / spring. Or the other thought I had was, is it possible to overfill a master cylinder reservoir? Could that cause the issue I'm having? I usually fill it pretty much right up to the brim and then set my cover down on it such that a little leaks out of the sides when I do. I figure it minimized the air in there and minimizes the potential to introduce air into the line if / when the bike is rubber side up.
  4. What I mean to say is, with the lever adjust such that there is free play in the lever, and no pre load on it (master cylinder is completely out) the issue still persists.
  5. Lmao damned naming conventions. I'm talking about the same tire, but naming it incorrectly. How about this, the more aggressive version of the mountain hybrid
  6. Sorry meant to say extreme mountain.
  7. Yea I think people often get too caught up in which tire brand / model is 'the best'. I feel its more important to find a tread pattern that suits your terrain. Buy from a good manufacturer and buy one that maybe has some characteristics that you like, but the tread pattern often times is the most important thing to start with for your terrain. There are a million open 'aggressive' patterns around like the arena hybrid, but I pick the Motoz because I like the carcass design, soft crown thick tough side wall. I think thats a key component that makes a tire track well, the crown molds to the ground better and the side wall protects your rim well when running lower pressures. Personally I think its an ideal carcass design for most situations. I think for dryer more generally harder pack terrain the mountain hybrid is an excellent tire, especially for dual sporting, it rides so smooth on pavement. I imagine that the gummy is just that much better with the softer rubber compound. Only trade off of course is life span.
  8. I didn't have a gummy but I did have the mountain hybrid. Overall for 70% of my riding it was excellent, however for some of the more extreme stuff I do (mountain climbs) it just wasn't aggressive enough. Especially so for side hilling on really steep off camber stuff. If you ride more wet dirt / mud / clay type stuff (a lot of the north east US) its not the greatest. I have however switched to the arena hybrid and so far I'm loving it. Has excellent durability and good traction in pretty much any situation.
  9. No shit, that's pretty damn close to what I half measured half estimated at 1.1 Well that kind of blows that theory out. Clutch appears to be traveling the right distance. I'm going to have to make a video of the engagement to show you just in case I'm losing my marbles. When good and warmed up with me sitting on the bike, the clutch doesn't begin to engage at all until about half out. Before that I can pretty much idle it with no additional throttle. After about half open on the lever I'll have to start giving it just a hair of throttle to keep it from starting to bog.
  10. Roger that, I'll pull the whole pack apart, just did some googling on the judder stuff, looks simple enough. I'll inspect the pack and compare to the manual. If all looks good with the pack and such maybe just drop the $80 or so bucks on a new slave and see if that has any effect? I figure at this point the only things it could be is something funky with the pack or something funky with the slave, I know the master isn't the issue as swapping to different masters didn't change anything. Yea I could figure the clutch is tough given how mine looked at 100 hours or so of good use. I don't slip the hell out of it with lots of throttle often, but I do work it a shit ton in technical stuff, lots of pulling in and out just to keep the bike running while hammering through rock gardens.
  11. I'm not sure, I only pulled 3 fibers and measured them, didn't pull the whole pack out. To be honest I'm not 100% sure what I'd be looking for in this beta clutch pack. I don't really know what the judder spring / seat looks like. Will have to google. Also I'd tend to agree on the total pack height. It almost seems to be like there could / should be a whole extra fiber / steel plate in there or something. I still don't think its an issue where like the push rod is too long or the slave cylinder is too close to the case etc as the issue isn't necessarily where the clutch engages so much as it is that the total engagement surface is really short. If the clutch was slipping I'd say maybe it was an engagement point issue because that'd mean I've got some preload on the slave / push rod that's holding the pressure plate out just a little which would cause full disengagement to happen way too early like I'm experiencing. Just doesn't seem to be the case, I've not noticed any slipping and being that my plates look excellent I doubt it is (would have been slipping a lot for a long time). Seems to me that somehow full throw of the clutch level is ether pushing the pressure plate out too much all together in a ratio sense. Or, for some reason somehow there's not enough in the pack to keep gradual linear friction from engaged to disengaged.
  12. Na, the issue is more engagement range rather than engagement point if that makes sense. I've adjusted the lever all the way out, it only engages at the last 1/3 release of the lever.
  13. Well I finally got around to measuring my fingers, measured 3 in several spots. All came out to about 2.95mm which is within spec. Basket still looked brand new, not even any wear spots on the posts let alone notches. If you didn't tell me this bike had ~100 hours on it I'd say it was off the showroom floor just by looking at the clutch pack / basket. Anyway I have no idea what to do now. I tried measuring the basket travel but it was really hard to do. Best I could come up with was a half estimation / measure of 1.1mm of travel. Is there anything I could / should inspect on the slave cylinder? Seems to me from my mechanical engineering knowledge that that basket travel of 1.1mm is a lot, you'd be giving each fiber and plate .071mm of free space. Seems to me at full disengage you'd nearly want no free space but rather simply reduced pressure on the plates.
  14. Your head o-rings are probably bad and leaking high cylinder pressure gasses past and into your cooling system. This pressurizes it and can pressurize it enough to push the radiator cap up and leak coolant past, just like it would if it was over heating. I and others had this issue with head orings, its a 30 minute swap out to new orings. Mine did this from the factory. I'd say 95% of people improperly diagnose this issue with a leaky t-stat. The t-stat leaks because theres a significant pressure build up in the loop, the t-stat is the weakest seal in the loop and will leak (slowly) coolant if high pressure is allowed to sit in the system. The true sign of this is if you dont notice or see any leaking going on right after a ride, but then when you go back out to your garage the next day you've got a small puddle under the bike from the t-stat seeping coolant out of it because of the pressure sitting in the system.
  15. I wonder if that goes for the plates as well as the frictions? I would assume if frictions are compatible plates would be too.