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About gr4vitas

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  1. What I mean to say is, swapping of a lever isn't going to fix the issue. If you want to know how I know, you can read more here:
  2. Trust me when I say there's nothing left to try to make the clutch better.
  3. Trouble is less the suspension more the clutch. Suspension can be reworked pretty easily. I can revalve it myself for cheap. Biggest issue I have is clutch feel on this 2016. Having ridden some other brands 2016's and newer I'm really finding that I dislike the clutch engagement on this bike.
  4. So long story short I've got a 2016 300RR. Generally speaking I like the bike. I've had a few gripes with it, mostly initial setup stuff that can be resolved pretty easily. The thing I like the most is the linear power delivery and torque. It just doesn't compare to any other 300 two stroke I've ever ridden. Every time I try a buddies ktm / husky 300 I get off the bike thinking "man what a turd, its got no guts down low". Meanwhile the 300Rr feels like a four stroke in the torque, then its linear power all the way through. Some of thats the power valve setting sure but ether way the engines are just delicious in my opinion. Anyway, two things I don't like. The factory valving (primarily in the forks). I've done a lot to improve the feel of the forks short of actually revalving them, what I've done has helped a great deal but the bottom line is the factory valving is pretty crappy unless you ride nice smooth dirt trails. The northeast rocks just emphasize the initial harshness of the valving. Yea I get it, get the suspension revalved, any bike is going to need it if your serious enough about riding. But the The second thing, and if you've seen my thread on the issue recently, is that it seems the clutch is strait up less adequate than other manufacturers. Specifically the problem I have is that the engagement range is short compared to say a husky (2016 TE 300 specifically). When the bike is warmed up I only get an engagement range equal to about half of the total lever pull, and that half is the second half. Making my total range of engagement short which makes slipping the clutch just the right amount in technical stuff hard. I'm surprised that I haven't heard anyone else commenting about this, thats why it seemed like it was unique to me, however after a lot of investigation it seems that thats just how this clutch is. Maybe its more noticeable for me because of the type of riding I do, I need really fine clutch control. Anyway without getting into all the specifics of that and my diagnoses and subsequent prognoses, I'm thinking about trading up to a different bike. I've done a lot to this one to make it mine and I generally like everything about it, and if it wasn't for this clutch issue I'd be fine with tuning up the suspension and making it work even better for me. My question is, is the 2018 model any different? Have they addressed the valving at all on the suspension? They always say "updated suspension" then give some vague description that basically says "better performance!" but what does that actually mean. Also they've said that they've updated the clutch in the 2018 model and even stated that it provides "more progression in clutch feel" I wonder if this is specifically in relation to my personal findings with my clutch? So has anyone been on a 2018?
  5. Owned a 2013 WR450 worst clutch I've ever pulled.
  6. Lmao so get rid of several features that make it 'enduro' and it'll be close to the same weight as other 'enduros'. Face it bro, they're motocross bikes. Heavy and old technology. Who the fuck wants a cable clutch? It's 2017.
  7. Look man, the Japanese manufacturers literally don't make an enduro dirtbike. All they make are motocross bikes. Just because people are racing (successfully or not) doesn't change that fact. When Yamaha or any of the other Japanese bikes come with a 6 speed wide ratio transmission, lights and a hydrolics clutch let me know. Until then they only make motocross bikes. And the WRs having lights don't count, they weigh like 275 pounds lmao.
  8. I'm not talking about pro racing. I'm talking about you buying a bike off the showroom room floor and riding Enduro style riding. Amount of people that race them in Enduro races is of no relevance.
  9. Other than the fact that they're both two strokes, they're not really comparable bikes. Ones a motocross bike the other is an enduro bike. If your a track guy, or otherwise motocross guy the yz would be the pick. For just about everything else I'd definitely go with a Beta. Edit: On that note, I used to be a Yamaha guy, about 15 years of it. I never rode motocross or tracks, always woods / enduro stuff. After going to the Beta 300RR I'll never go back. In fact I'd never go back to any Japanese bike. I'd buy a KTM, Husky, Sherco, TM etc before I bought another Japanese bike, they're just not made for the woods. They amazing track bikes no doubt, SSS suspension is easily the best off the showroom floor without a doubt. However when it comes to the woods, the Japanese don't currently make a bike that is any good for it. I could list all the reasons why but I'd be here all day.
  10. Trouble is I swapped back to the stock master cylinder already thinking I was having an issue. Same results. I've had good success reverse bleeding master cylinders, popping off the slave and pushing the slave cylinder in with my finger to push the fluid up that way.
  11. Finally had time to pull the whole pack out. Everything correct according to the manual. All plates in the right place etc. I measured every single fiber as well and they all measured 2.95mm. I pulled and inspected the push rod etc and everything looked fine. Barring having measurements to check against for push rod length etc hard to say if anything was out of spec. As far as assembly anyway everything looked correct. Totally lost now might just have to take it to a shop and ask if they have any ideas or something.
  12. This is what kills me about when people say Beta is the every day riders bike while KTM etc are more geared for racing. Yea from the factory they may need a little tuning to be race ready, namely suspension valving. But what bike doesn't require that for serious racing?
  13. Haven't had the time to yank all the plates and fibers yet. Hoping to have the time tomorrow night. I honestly hope at this point that I find that something is strait up missing like the judder fiber or the spring or something. I'll update you asap.
  14. I realize you could just tie a rope through the grab handles, but I was wondering if anyone made a grab strap purpose made for the beta? Something like this but for the unconventional seat connection style of the Beta. https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/839/22967/Highline-Recreation-Tugger-Lift-Strap-Rear
  15. So I've been sitting here brainstorming ideas. I think the clutch pack is fine. I think the master / slave are fine (on account of pressure plate travel seems right). The only thing I can think of is that there was some kind of defect in fiber plate / friction plate dimensions from the factory, or something funky with the judder plate / spring. Or the other thought I had was, is it possible to overfill a master cylinder reservoir? Could that cause the issue I'm having? I usually fill it pretty much right up to the brim and then set my cover down on it such that a little leaks out of the sides when I do. I figure it minimized the air in there and minimizes the potential to introduce air into the line if / when the bike is rubber side up.