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Anthon Berg

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About Anthon Berg

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    TT Gold Member

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  • Location
    Iceland
  • Interests
    Riding a 2007 DR-Z400S and a Husaberg 570, fixing a '96 Husqvarna TE 410

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  1. Anthon Berg

    DRZ400 weight loss

    Haha I know! That said, a little goes a long way. If the bike is unnerving to ride on the highway - if! - then it's worth a try dropping the rear down even just a liiiittle bit Shaving weight off these bikes is fun and rewarding. Getting the suspension approximately right and then cutting some weight is what brings the magic.
  2. Anthon Berg

    DRZ400 weight loss

    In my experience, this effect has more to do with front wheel trail - you need more front wheel trail to stabilize the bike - and less with weight. To get more trail you can set sag or move the forks in the clamps to tilt the bike back to “rake it out” a little. My Husaberg is 115kg and there are certainly no issues with high-speed stability - once sag and rake and trail are set!
  3. Anthon Berg

    Headlight shroud question

    Looking good! Very good! Here’s mine. More of a utilitarian look! Still, I really like the the ’90s RM replica fender I picked up. Copied from a really nice DRZ from a couple British guys’ trip around the planet. Can’t recall the name / website. Fender goes well with the chinese-KTM lantern
  4. Anthon Berg

    Headlight shroud question

    Apologies for the belated reply :) Did you get it pieced together? When I ordered mine, I ordered an H4 bulb and a KTM headlight, which takes a BA20D bulb, so I had to do some light fabrication. This is unnecessary if you get a headlight and bulb that match. I wanted the KTM headlight style. Nowadays I'd get the Cyclops BA20D bulb that they have started making. To make the H4/BA20D hybrid I ended up using ... Sugru. First study and take pictures of how the crappy original bulb sits in the new headlight's reflector, from the front. To get a feel for how it throws light out. Notice the little metal shield on the incandescent bulb filament which stops light. IIRC the shield is on the top of the filament as mounted. Has to do with high/low beam as I recall? Take pics! So you don't have to go back and reassemble once you notice you don't remember how the bulb sat before like I did :) Now pull out everything that is removable from inside the headlight - everything that's supposed to be removable. Bulb and plastic base. Now drop the H4 LED bulb in headlight to check fit and alignment. The H4 bulb will actually sit surprisingly tight in the stripped BA20D mount in the headlight. Take note of the shield on the bulb. It's supposed to be oriented the same way as the shield on the old incandescent bulb's filament. (Up?) When you're satisfied that the new bulb is positioned to throw a similar beam, then split the Cyclops bulb from its base by screwing it out. And glue the base in. I used Sugru. This is actually easier to do than to explain :) And even easier if you get a matching bulb and headlight ... Still worth the mod though. Mounting the headlight is done with the included rubber straps. Tied to the forks. You have to stretch them a little but they hold very well. I removed all the old headlight mounting hardware I could. If I remember right then the mounts hold both the blinkers and the headlight. So part of that remains on. I might grind it down later. No issues with heat, but I feel kind of not super comfy with having the fan and electronics somewhat exposed. But folks say it's OK.
  5. Anthon Berg

    Headlight shroud question

    Whatever you do don't mount the OEM S/SM headlight as-is It's crazy heavy. Bunch of metal and glass. It's basically a '70s car headlight I'd find something lighter - KLX or KTM knockoff headlights for instance. I'm going for a white KTM-inspired EBay Special and a Cyclops LED bulb. Got them ordered and on the way.
  6. Anthon Berg

    Full exhaust options for DRZ400E model

    You probably don't want the S/SM exhaust. They're VERY heavy, and the weight is up high and back. And they're very restrictive too.
  7. Anthon Berg

    Anyone regret getting the tall seat concepts seat?

    Definitely get the tall seat if you're feeling scrunched at the knees. I did that for my Husaberg. Very happy I did. You can always lower the bike a bit on the suspension if you really need to sit lower.
  8. Anthon Berg

    Drz 400 lengthened shock /raised rear?

    I've seen this discussed too. Some info here: http://www.dirtbikeworld.net/forum/archive/index.php/t-21683.html "We lengthen the shock by moving the piston position." ... it sounds a little like they're trying to obfuscate, tbh
  9. Anthon Berg

    Do cams change the exhaust note? Base gasket compression?

    Excellent! I've been scouring youtube for hints ... No single-cylinder before/after cam sound captures. Quite a few Harleys though. There's a big difference in the lopey lumpy idle, but also in the tone of each exhaust pulse. I think she'll sound nicer with some cams in her. Gonna grab some this summer!
  10. Anthon Berg

    Do cams change the exhaust note? Base gasket compression?

    Here's to experimentation then!
  11. Anthon Berg

    Do cams change the exhaust note? Base gasket compression?

    I can't stay inside it :'(
  12. Hiya!, - I've got an S that still has the pokey little S cams in it. I'm wondering, will more aggressive cams make it sound different? I'm thinking cams on the level of E / current Hot Cams Stage 2, i.e. just normal non-diluted cams. Is the compression increase from the thinner base gasket also audible? I've read somewhere that part of what makes Ducatis sound so good are the aggressive cams they can use by virtue of the active valve control desmodromic system. I really like the sound of the bike as it is now - I lucked out and got a really nice french CRD titanium full system on it that sounds deeeeeeep but not too loud - but it's not the BEST sounding single-cylinder bike I've heard go by. I'm still haunted by a 2007 or so Husqvarna supermoto I heard downtown a few years ago. Crazy aggressive note. Each combustion event very distinct and cut in stone, deep and tumbling, but not crazy loud. Interested in how that effect is obtained. Any thoughts?
  13. omg, they recently upgraded the forum and tossed out the post numbers :'(
  14. Anthon Berg

    2017 DRZ400S Front Suspension Question

    imo the stock suspension is just a little weird no real reasons to be found for anything ... My historic / evolutionary take on the suspension is that the original E was specified very nice suspension components. Heavy-duty but very good gear. It got quite soft springs and soft valving. Perhaps this was the style of the time, and a bit of a rushed design on Suzuki's part - the DRZ is a rather top-heavy bike and perhaps they didn't really appreciate what would be the best way to build the valve stacks and suspension behavior - or the engineers weren't able to get funding to really do the suspension well. I'm not sure. But I'm sure that almost anything you do to the suspension is an improvement. So the E is soft. As in sprung soft and valved soft. Then the S is the same, except it has a significantly heavier rear spring. Theory has it that this is because the bike is intended to take a passenger. (And indeed the S handles surprisingly well with a passenger, even offroad and uphill!) So the S rear spring is a bit stiff. Note that sag adjustment does not make the spring stiffer or softer (perhaps counterintuitively). Just set the rear sag so that it'll ride right. I use the rule of thumb "Race sag in attack position about 1/3rd of rear suspension travel, adjust to taste". AFAIK the front spring preload isn't adjustable on the DRZ. Except with spacers. Regardless of rider weight, the DRZ is undersprung and underdamped. You'll probably notice that the rear is underdamped on two occasions: When you see the bike being ridden over whoops etc., and compare it to "normal" dirtbikes. It'll rock and wallow - noticeably. And then when you notice the rear giving you a KICK upwards as you go over a curb or rock. That's because the stock S compression damping is low, which allows the spring to quickly collapse, and then the spring is too strong for the rebound damping so that it SMACKs back out and kicks up the rear. You'll benefit from both revalving and respringing Both are relatively easy jobs. It'll be both more plush AND more predictable. I'd say the rear spring rate is the last thing to change as it's already rather stiff. Just my thoughts / opinion
  15. If it starts cold without choke, then that is in my opinion another indication that it is overly rich (Still, I have the suspicion that something else is also at play!)
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