Team TT
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About adnohguy

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    Honda nut, Gearhead, Wrenching/tuning, Offroad, Dirtbikes, Quads, Trail riding, Camping, Sand Dunes.

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  1. Just ordered an 88 xr200r triple complete with all attachment hardware/components that has aluminum stem and both clamps. Will see how much can be used....
  2. Most of you already know this:But others may not.... Notice the: 1) OEM Shop Manual, open and using it. 2) Impact driver 3) Torque wrench 4) assembly lube (grease) and/or engine oil. 5) LOCKTITE 6) clean rags 7) Hand cleaner? 8) magnetic tray for removed screws, bolts, nuts 9) proper tools for the proper job. 10) most important of all: The bike was cleaned/washed before opening it up. no claw hammers, pry bars, crowbars, chisels, or a hubcap full of gas [emoji618]️ for cleaning parts. Lol: Not shown: Beer, cocktails, and the posse to keep you interrupted by asking stupid questions about helping them with there own bike, knocking stuff over, getting in the way.
  3. Good job Ricky on all of the above. Your going to like it.
  4. I did set up a starter in my mill and machined the long side of the starter where there is one long bolt and one short bolt. Now I use two short bolts. It’s all aluminum so I think it wasn’t enough savings on the starter to post. But I got even more weight off by tossing the short steel bolts and running aluminum. (And aluminum 6mm nuts on the starter solenoid and one where the cable connects to the starter) My 95 xr250r duel sport has a drilled kickstand pivot bolt from the factory. So I did that on the 230 as well along with a 10mm Titanium flange nut on the back side. Every single bolt on the fuel tank mounts, petcock, rubber strap and side plastic all has aluminum hardware. Same with all bolts on all handle bar levers, twist grip and air filter box, rear fender, front fender and battery mount box. Anodized Aluminum flange/dimpled bolts are lighter than titanium and a whole bunch cheaper also. All 8mm triple tree and handle bar clamp bolts are steel but have 10mm hex, flanged and the heads are dimpled. (Instead of 12mm hex) 12x 2g’s each. (Almost an OZ) Well under 220 lbs now with a full tank of fuel. Still have three more aluminum engine mount plates and aluminum rear shock linkage to go. Not riding much but still having fun tinkering. (Been raining a lot around here this whole month)
  5. Float level, float level, float level....
  6. My Tripplet front suspension works surprisingly fantastic. Love it. And I like the sleeper look the most. As many “May” know, my 230 is far from stock in most every way except it looks very stock except for the pipe and fork brace. That’s my favorite look when I ride my girls bike. My 150f has the CR80r front end with 18-21 wheels. It’s far from stock also but doesn’t look stock with that front end.
  7. I believe so as long as the 200 and the 230 fork tubes are the same diameter and the offset is the same? I have looked on E Bay for the 200 lower tree with aluminum stem and there are several but with out knowing the 200 fork tube diameter, I’m hesitant to purchase. 230 fork tubes are 37mm What diameter are XR 200’s?
  8. Not positive that you will need shorter bolt? But it’s a possibility until tomorrow afternoon. Then I will know for sure and let all know then.
  9. Yes I purchased one and gave it away because it was so sketchy that I refused to use it on my stuff. I will continue “Only” using Tokyo Mods tensioners. Bullet Proof!
  10. Oh, then no, I will run out of gas going that far....
  11. Oh, then no, if I got to go around corners then I have to ride a quad. Turning to sharp would cause me to fall over on a motorcycle.
  12. You got a 230? If so how about you race me for title’s?
  13. I just read in another forum that Worx Shocks is still open and ran by Gil’s daughter: Starr Stifely Address is 7861 Alabama Avenue Suite 12 Canoga Park, CA. 91304 Phone # 818-701-1010 I have not verified the information my self, But have used a Worx remote reservoir rear shock for years on my 230 and it works at least as well as my Hagon does.