cadman_ks

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About cadman_ks

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  1. In the middle of the country, I don't think that bike would even go for $3K WITH the work you've done to it. Keeping it sounds like your best bet. Good luck!!!
  2. It's hard to tell from the picture, but it appears that the little oil holes go all the way thru on the bottom shaft, because you can see a little dot of white (the towel) showing thru on one of the holes. That still doesn't mean that they are not flat on the other side. Apparently, it's a different shaft on exhaust and intake in 2017 on as well. Not the same shaft. OP, have you ever gotten to the bottom of what really happened first? Was the oil pick up blocked? Was something installed internally wrong from the factory? Did the oil pump quit? Somehow there was a severe lack of lubrication...
  3. You didn't indicate how much you've spent on the bike so far, but from the sounds of it, you're probably into it for a fair amount. My gut would be that you will NOT get your money back when you sell it, and I wouldn't think that the "costs" to get it registered, even if you have to do the Vermont thing would be all that great. If I was in your position, I would continue down the registration path, whatever that may look like, and keep the bike. Sounds like you've done some good work to it... YMMV
  4. Sorry, what I wrote came out wrong. I did not see the 500 version listed on his website, so I was making the conjecture that the reason that he doesn't have it on his sight is because it's a fairly bullet proof design. Hence, my comment about owning two 500's and never having to touch or adjust them. My statements made it sound like it was impossible that you were having issues with yours. It's a mechanical piece, and it can certainly fail, and from the sounds of it, it sounds like yours possibly has. My apologies...
  5. I also went and looked to make sure that I wasn't missing something, and there is no mention of checking or adjusting the cam chain tensioner in the service schedule. So, it's not even something that you're suppose to mess with. The repair manual simply states to put it back in. Doesn't even give any adjustment instructions, since it auto adjusts when you start the bike...
  6. It appears that the same tensioner was in the '16 and '17, and so I'm assuming used in the years prior to that as well, most likely back to 2012. ON EDIT: just verified that it is the same part back to 2012... That has to be the cheapest KTM OEM part ever. Only about $36 bucks on Rocky Mountain!!!
  7. earthmover, not for sure what bike you have, but I didn't see anything on this website that went past 2011, which was the year before they switched to the design that Spud is referencing. If you have a 500 EXC/XCW, sounds like the best option would be to replace back with OEM. I've had a 2014 and now a 2016 EXC, and I don't even know where the cam chain tensioner is. I've never messed with it on either bike. I have over 6500 miles logged on my '16, and I've never touched it, let alone adjust it...
  8. All I've carried with me is a little hand bike pump. Supposed to get to 110PSI, but I've always wondered if it would really get there. I had to use it on my last Colorado trip for a rear that went flat, tire not bladder, and it didn't take all that long to get the rear tire to 10-11PSI, but that's all low pressure...
  9. ...ah, much better!!!
  10. There you go! What does it look like now when you stand back? Does it look loose?
  11. LOL!! Not just a little, a LOT, like to the point that your sure it will probably fall off, or at least it feels like it will...
  12. YES!!! TOO MUCH, even though it looks "normal". Get used to everyone telling you that your chain is too loose. That's the way that it is supposed to be ran...
  13. This is what Rekluse has in their site about oils to use: The best oils we have tested meet the spec of JASO-MA or JASO-MA2 which signifies that the oil is fit for use in wet-clutch motorcycles. This is what Shell says about the ratings that T6 has: API: CK-4, CJ-4, CI-4 PLUS, CI-4, CH-4 ACEA E9; JASO DH-2; Cummins CES 20086; Volvo VDS-4.5; Detroit Fluid Specification (DFS) 93K222, Caterpillar ECF-2/ECF-3, MAN M3575, JASO MA/MA2, Allison TES 439, MB-Approval 228.31 If both of these sites are up to date, it looks like T6 should at least meet the specs. What it never had meet is the viscosity requirements, and still doesn't. I'm still intrigued by this...
  14. Do you by chance have any looks related to Rekulse recommending not using it. That has my interest peaked...