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ian505050

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About ian505050

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  1. Anyway decided to put the suspension to the test and check for leaks and found that my front right has a slight leak after some really aggressive pushing and pulling as you can see in the photo below. I had a look up at the seal as the bike came with a receipt saying in had new fork seals about a year ago. I decided to make a fork seal scraper out of an old milk bottle carton. I should really buy a proper tool TBF After scraping the fork seal about 6 times i tested for leaks and i think it may have made a slight improvement but not perfect as it was still leaking a little. Am i correct in thinking that forks bend naturally a little over time through use? I am just scratching my head a little on why its leaking.
  2. Ok, thanks again for the help. Can you confirm which way the seal is supposed to be fitted. The seal that is currently fitted to the bike in the last photo has not been removed yet and has the channel cut out in the seal facing inwards to the center of the engine, but the parts fiche seems to suggest that the seal is fitted the other way,
  3. Right, a little update with a few photos as i love it when i find a post with some decent snaps. I decided to have a look at the drive shaft seal. First i removed the plate cover Then wiggled the collar out,with a small drop of plusgas it came out easy. It had a few grooves worn in it A photo with the collar removed the seal seems to be stuck out further than i thought is should be? It came out easily enough after applying a small amount of plusgas and using a flat bladed screw driver it popped out easily. Seal looked fine from the side that was facing out The side of the seal that was facing in looked like this, i could not see and grit that may have caused this. In the next photo i am holding the old seal of the drive shaft and it seams the old seal has another identical seal behind it? The seal behind it is facing so the hollowed out section of the seal is facing inwards? The opposite way to the one i just removed. I also found this, is this the o-ring that is supposed to sit behind the bearing or could it be just part of the damaged seal? At this point i decided before i try and remove what i believe to be a second seal fitted in error by the previous owner that i should consult someone off here first before i do damage to the second seal trying to remove it. In the drive shaft seal tit you get:- Kit Includes: Upgraded oil seal,Hardened steel bushing.,O-Ring (where applicable).Snap ring or lock washer (where applicable).Why would you get the o-ring that sits behind the bearing in the kit?
  4. Many thanks for your time/effort to reply. I will order some bits and get my hands dirty.
  5. After a few more days searching for a possible resolution. Could it be that i need to adjust the fuel screw thats located underneath the carb? I believe some people fit an aftermarket fuel screw to make adjustment easier. Would it be clockwise or to increase fuel or reduce it?
  6. Hi, hopefully after spending some time searching this forum and the rest of the internet you can help me confirm a few issues and resolutions for my bike. Below is a snap of the bike i have just purchased. I have had a WR250F for the past 2 years and fancied something with a bit more power. My issues so far:- 1.) I noticed my bike had an oil leak after i ran it in my garage for 5 minutes. After cleaning the bike and resting it against the wall i found that i had a nice little puddle of oil and it seems to be coming from the main drive shaft. (see photos below), Can some confirm that the link i have posted below is the correct part to fix my issue. I am 99% sure its correct even though it does not state it fits my bike in the link i believe the All Balls Part Number 25-4019 seems to be correct. https://www.catalyst-findit.co.uk/index.php?c=d2f5d910014f2842ada1bbc16c273aae&vat=ex&rpp=100&dest=prod&pid=17-9217&PHPSESSID=a42408a6cf74f184cc1e0ec7a1649cf2 2.) My second issue i noticed when rolling the bike around the garage and grabbing the front brake. When i apply the brake there seemed to be a jolt feeling i could feel. I think it may be free play in the head bearings, but is there anything else i should look for? I am going to have a look at the old head bearing and probably buy the head bearings in the link below https://www.catalyst-findit.co.uk/index.php?c=d2f5d910014f2842ada1bbc16c273aae&rpp=100&dest=prod&pid=17-1268.AB&PHPSESSID=a42408a6cf74f184cc1e0ec7a1649cf2 3) On my WR250F i have an oil bleed bolt that you undo after an oil change to confirm you have oil pressure, The photo below shows my YZ400F 98 and there seems to be a ball bearing in place of this bolt? Why would this be like this? My brothers WR400F has the same ball bearing in the same spot. Any Ideas? 4) Finally........................ It seems my bike has a major bodge on the sump plug at the lowest point on the engine. It does not leak but what should i do with this? I have not tried to undo it yet. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks in advance for any assistance you can offer. I have used the search function quite a bit but would like your opinion on my specific bike with the photos shown. I will update this post with some good quality photos as i fix the above issues and anymore i find to hopefully help others at a later date Kind Regards Ian
  7. Hi, I have a WR250F 2005 steel frame that i have been using issue free for the past 2 years but i have developed a slight issue. Gradually the bike hesitates for about half a second at low rpm in all gears. If i am stood up on the pegs and the bike bogs down in can nearly throw me over the handle bars head first. The bogging down is at its worst when i start the bike from cold but the bogging down happens a bit less when the bike warm, but even when the bikes up to temperature it still bogs down a little bit. The issue has been getting gradually worse over he past 500 miles. Another point to note is that the bike is also back fireing more and more as i role off the throttle, so my thoughts are that it may be running a liitle rich, would my thinking be correct? How can i adjust the fuel to air ratio? that the bikes using. The bike had oil, oil filter, air filter changes every 300 miles and valve clearance check every 1000 miles. The valve clearances were all in tolerance about 700 miles ago and i have not had to adjust them in the 300 miles i have owned the bike. The bike starts fine with the choke on and runs fine other that the slight bogging issue. I bought the bike with unknown mileage have personally done roughly 4000 miles green laning at an average speed of 20/30mph. So 4000 miles at an average of 25 mph would me the engine has done 160 hours with just basic servicing and valve checks ect.. which i am quite pleased with. Sorry for sounding a bit simple Any help is much appreciated A few snaps of my bike when clean a few snaps when not so clean In the lake district
  8. I have just been to view a YZ400F 1998 and decided to leave the guy a deposit and said i would come back with a man in a van. When i return to buy i will obviously take it for a test ride but what should i be looking for on this specific model in terms of wear and tear and common faults. http://www.gumtree.com/p/cars-vans-motorbikes/yamaha-yzf-400-supermoto-1998/1038391704#photo-content I have a few specific questions. 1.) The bike come with the supermoto wheels fitted but the guy says he will give me a set off offroad rims and tyres. When i ask him what do i need to change when swapping the wheels he was unsure. Do i need to change the caliper mount? 2.) I have a WR250F 2005 and WR400F 2001 at home in the garage already. What parts are interchangeable between the YZ400F and my existing bikes? Hopefully someone will be kind enough to advise, many thanks Ian
  9. Hi, i want to paint my frame but cant find the colour code anywhere? It a dark blue with a slight purple tint to it maybe? Its the same colour as this one http://174.132.130.99/~adrian/_images/2002wr250fvin002551/DSCN9069.JPG I bought a can off this stuff and its a much lighter colour than whats already on the bike http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Apico-Fast-Finish-Universal-Acrylic-Paint-RM-Blue-400ML-FREE-P-P-/151008160452?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item2328c9aac4&ssPageName=RSS:B:SHOP:GB:101 Any help would be much appreciated
  10. I have a 2006 WR250F and its probably covered about 5000 to 6000 miles and about 50% of it off road. I noticed that the rear of my bike sits lower than normal recently by probably about 2 cm. This means that when putting the bike on the side stand it wants to stand more central. I also noticed that the bike bottoms out on on relatively small bumps and when traveling fast on a rough surface the rear tyre struggles to keep traction when accelerating. The other point i noticed was when on tarmac moving fast and accelerating the front end is now twitchey, i presume this is because the rear is sitting lower. I decided to check to see if the rear shock is leaking but it does not really seem to be leaking. I also checked to see if the spring is cracked and it seems fine. I am thinking i need to get the rear shock refurbished but before i remove it i have a few questions. 1.) What would a rear shock refurbish consist of as i have been quoted £99.99 for a refurb. 2.) Are my symptoms definitely a nakered shock or may i need to grease the swing arm pivot bearings? They have not been greased in at least 2500. miles.
  11. ian505050

    New WR400F owner with a few simple questions

    Few snaps 1 week later and nearly all the snow has gone
  12. ian505050

    New WR400F owner with a few simple questions

    No chance, This is more like my pace
  13. ian505050

    New WR400F owner with a few simple questions

    And very steep at some points
  14. ian505050

    New WR400F owner with a few simple questions

    Thought i might as well pop some photos that i had on another forum. I decided to buy a WR400 so my brother could join me on my little off road excursions. The bike passed a daylight MOT on Friday just in time for the Easter break. We decided to drive up in a Van to Skipton and pop a full tank of fuel in the bikes and explore. We found that many small roads were blocked with 5-6 foot of snow so had to turn round and find an alternative route. We did manage to attempt some routes that were blocked by 2 feet of snow but the bikes bottomed out and lost traction on some occasions. As this was the first ride of the WR400 we decided to test in in a field and realized it had loads of power but was a bit heavy at the back end for soft snow. It has massive amounts of power that just eats up the ground under it. As it was my brothers first ride on a proper off road bike sometimes the riding did not go to plan. We also found some piles of snow 8-9 foot high We even found roads that Land Rover drivers decided were too extreme Land Rover driver trying an 18 point turn The snow was as high as the walls at some points and sheep could walk from field to field using the snow drifts. We also found a woman at the bottom of a hill, she had to be pulled out by the Land Rover and i believe she may have burnt her clutch out. That is a road to the left We also found some areas not covered in snow Just another road blocked Thats the view from on top of the road block 250 on the left and 400 on the right This gives you a better idea of some of the snow we came up against. Then we found some snow drifts that we attempted to get over As you can see the snow was often a little too soft for the weight of the bike.
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