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Johny1212

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About Johny1212

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    TT Member

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Arizona
  1. We are having a Black Friday sale this weekend and you can get 20% off Friday through Sunday on our site- no code needed http://motool.co. If you are not ready to purchase that soon please email me and I can get you a code- johny@motool.co
  2. Johny1212

    Cylinder Works Big Bore Cylinder Kit

    Excellent, really gave the bike a stronger low/mid pull more like a 450. Install was easy.
  3. Johny1212

    Suzuki RMZ250 (2013)

    0 comments

    Great bike, the handling is second to none. The bolts seem to be pretty cheap but overall this has been a great bike for me!
  4. Johny1212

    Suzuki RMZ250 2013

    Great bike, the handling is second to none. The bolts seem to be pretty cheap but overall this has been a great bike for me!
  5. Johny1212

    Slacker Digital Sag Scale

    Yeah, I have used that one and the ASV and they drove me to this invention. The motion pro doesn't allow you to bounce the bike to settle the suspension so it could never give you an accurate reading. See this video to see how Factory Connection takes the measurement (Pro Circuit too). They bounce the bike. The ASV makes you set the 0 point reaching back toward the rear axle which is not a normal riding position. Both were at least 10mm off what you would get with a tape and a helper. You can see they are not well thought out just reading the user guides.
  6. Johny1212

    Slacker Digital Sag Scale

    Hey, this is johny and I am the guy who is putting out Slacker. I ran in to this prowling the forum accidentally:-) Thanks for posting this Calhoun! It will actually run $100 not $150+. I just moved the site to a better platform so that link is bunk now. Here is the new home- http://www.motool.co/product-p/slacker.htm Feel free to hit me up if anyone has questions. Cheers!
  7. Johny1212

    2013 RM-Z250 Shifting Problems- can't shift to 4th

    Alright, I put the bike back together Saturday night and took it out the last two days to see if it still does this. I thought it did this again once after about 20 minutes of riding but then I noticed my shift lever was really low after I put it all back together. I put it back where I like it and the bike shifts flawlessly now! All I can think is there was something loose in the case causing it to get jammed up sometimes or it was a washer in the wrong place or something from the factory. Shifting feels nice and positive now and I am not missing any shifts. Thanks for all your help!
  8. Johny1212

    Propper points to measure race sag?

    All I can say is the bike is way sweeter when I listen to factory connection and measure 105mm to the seat bolt. Seems like a good place to start to me.....
  9. Johny1212

    2013 RM-Z250 Shifting Problems- can't shift to 4th

    Alright, I figured out the washer issue. There was one stuck on the case and it was the only one I needed apparently. I got everything together and put the case together with the gasket. Everything is nice and snug and it will shift through all 5 gears consistently. It actually has a much better feel than it did before I took it apart. My friend also checked it and said it seemed excellent. When I started torqueing the case bolts one snapped. I could feel it spin but not get tighter. Everyone complains about the stock Suzuki bolts and now I know why. It didn't even get to 7 lbs and should be at 8. Anyway, do you have any recommendations on better bolts? It is a good time to just replace some to prevent issues in the future. I was thinking of going to the hardware store tomorrow and wondered if pure steel or a steel zinc type bolt would be better. Thanks for your help man, I really appreciate it! Perky- Thanks for the input. I did check the clutch basket etc. and the clutch is in great shape;-)
  10. Johny1212

    2013 RM-Z250 Shifting Problems- can't shift to 4th

    Thanks funkin! I really appreciate your help on this. I am learning a lot. I will try the dry fit this afternoon. Last night I was toying with just tossing it back together and when I put the gear stacks fully together I noticed there are two washers missing from the gear stacks and trust me I made sure I had everything that came out of it. One was supposed to be for the end of the drive shaft assembly where it meets the bearing and the other was off one or the other gear stacks. One stack is a washer short according to the drawings and you can see it at the end of the shaft on either drive or driven depending on how which you build first. Maybe these were left out at the factory? Could that cause binding? I am going to the shop this morning to get the washers then I will try the dry fit later this afternoon. Thanks again, I really appreciate your help!
  11. Johny1212

    2013 RM-Z250 Shifting Problems- can't shift to 4th

    Here are some pics of 3rd and fourth driven and drive as well as the forks and drum. I assembled it in the right case and it shifts right through to 5th and has a very positive feel. I closely looked at all the dogs, grooves etc. and they all look excellent to me. I would almost lean towards putting it back together but I am paranoid it will still be an issue. Maybe it was assembled wrong? Honestly, when we split the cases we went straight for the shift forks so I did not document exactly how everything came out. More pics coming.
  12. Johny1212

    Propper points to measure race sag?

    I give up. I understand sag and I understand you should set it what works best for you. That is just obvious. Go ahead and measure 105 to the fender when the factory says 105 to the bolt and wonder why your bike is too busy. I also know this is a starting point but you should at least start at the right sag. It is critical to setup so I can't see why everyone is - "just measure wherever, it doesn't matter". It does if you are always 10mm off on your measurement because you are stubborn. I don't think any of that is good advice. I am out on this ridiculous conversation.
  13. Johny1212

    Propper points to measure race sag?

    No, you are missing the concept. If the factory says 105 to the seat bolt why would I measure somewhere else? Sorry, but that makes no sense.
  14. Johny1212

    Propper points to measure race sag?

    Thanks for the input! I agree but why would you just start at some random number when you can start where they actually recommend. Sure, I could take it at the fender at 115mm now that I know that measurement but for an inexperienced rider they will set it at 105 to the fender and leave it never realizing they are at 95. Set it where the manufacturer or suspension tuner says to set it then you can see what that measurement is to a more convenient location and use that number. Don't use 105 and measure wherever you want to because you will not be at 105 according to the manufacturer;-)Otherwise you have no good baseline.
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