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About mxracer515

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    I've been racing since 1978. Play guitar ,Modded & hand built a few amplifers .I only do cool stuff.

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  1. The stock honda axle blocks are 39mm the ktm is 42.5. No go the blocks cock sideways too much...I have the honda axle on my ktm other than the easier to read markings you may not notice much. it is subtle. I had a 2016 honda axle & nut just bought the ride eng blocks. I dont think honda changed the axle blocks on 17's & newer. My opinion not worth the $100.00 bucks for the whole kit...If you have an axle like I did its just an ok mod @ $50.00 for the ride blocks .. buy a tire.
  2. I generally wont post in threads like this but I will offer this. On my 17 350 I ran the stock shock for about 20 hours stock then added a PR 2 bladder kit , MX tech low friction piston band with NO valving changes & used maxima 3w syn shock oil. Dynos' & science aside I want a certain feel. The first thing I notice is stock feels like when your new tire was installed & they did not set them to the correct psi say 25# plus compared tp a bladder .. Piston = high psi / bladder =correct pressure . An edger feel I suppose The 2nd thing I notice is smaller bump compliance/hookup at speed.The shock feels to react quicker/ track better I was not trying to test the bladder or I would not of installed the mxtech piston band. I knew the feel I was after & had used this process before. I do prefer the subtle feel & serviceability of the bladder. However I have raced & won on the stock shock. I have not replaced a piston due to failure, but Have replaced 4 or 5 bladders . Those had years of neglect. I have 3 vintage honda cr 250's 86,87 with the original bladder & the 89 has a bladder out of another old shock.. I service them yearly no issues .The 86's bladder is 31 years old ! Bladders can last..I added some vintage bike pics to lighten the mood .
  3. I can add this as I tested a spring conversion & have ridden an FC relalved spring kit . all on a 350ktm . 1] drop a spring kit in with no valving changes the spring will have a first 1/3 of stroke better traction feel , a smoother more controlled feel & comfort. slap down is improved quite a bit. 2] mid stroke can be a bit hollow depending on bump / jump size 3] bottoming is worst than the aer & once you add damping/ oil to get back to aer btm resistance you mess up first 1/3 & mid to a degree 4] you notice the extra weight of the spring kit for a ride or 2 but goes away & feels normal The FC spring kit w/revalve was better in all areas than stock aer & stock aer with spring kit .I would not say night & day better Its good to very good but it's near $900.00 with shipping I have not ridden an aer air revalved by FC but I did try a MX Tech leaf spring with good results. If I was a woods guy who raced, a spring kit with mxtech leaf spring mid would be my 1st choice . Then an aer with leaf spring mid 2nd . Moto] If i was a low tech type guy who is finding the air setting a hassle. A spring kit with revalve is a good option. But it expensive & adds little to resale. The aer is not holding most riders back. A revalved aer I assume is on par. The 18 aer fork has a more comfort feel in 1st 1/3 with a better over all feel & for a few bucks The older aer can be up graded to 18 specs. You should do it as normal maintenance anyway. My biggest aer complaint is the high ft feel. but that fades to a degree & you get use to it. Always remember suspension is subjective & tracks are different . You are basically looking for what makes you have confidence For the track/ conditions you ride & find the balance between comfort & performance. Also don't forget the shock has a great deal of influence on fork performance. I have seen a hacky fork in breaking bumps be fixed by a shock adjustment. I am hearing technical touch has a retrofit kit w/ a kyb sss cart & a new fork lugs w/ btm cone for aer forks. around $1500.00 Hope this helps someone sorry to ramble on.
  4. 17 350 after a day of work FMF slip on CV fork trax shock
  5. This may be what you're looking for. The stiffness of a shim is not linear in relation to its thickness. If two 0.15 mm shims are stacked together the stiffness will not equal one 0.30 mm shim. In fact it takes a little more than eight 0.15 mm shims to equal one 0.30 mm shim. To calculate how many thin shims it takes to equal one thicker shim the formula is approximately the same as for comparing the stiffness of dissimilar constant section beams. The procedure is to divide the thicker shim by the thinner shim to get the ratio between the thicknesses of the shims. Then if you cube the thickness ratio you will have an idea of how many thin shims it takes to equal one thicker shim. Example 1: 0.30 ÷ 0.15 = 2.00 2.00 cubed (2.00 x 2.00 x 2.00) = 8.00 Hence: 0.15 x 8.0 shims = one 0.30 shim Example 2: 0.25 ÷ 0.15 = 1.67 1.68 cubed = 4.66 Hence: 0.15 x 4.66 shims = one 0.25 shim Example 3: 0.20 ÷ 0.15 = 1.33 1.33 cubed = 2.35 Hence: 0.15 x 2.35 shims = one 0.20 shim Example 1: 0.30 ÷ 0.15 = 2.00 2.00 cubed (2.00 x 2.00 x 2.00) = 8.00 Hence: 0.15 x 8.0 shims = one 0.30 shim Example 2: 0.25 ÷ 0.15 = 1.67 1.68 cubed = 4.66 Hence: 0.15 x 4.66 shims = one 0.25 shim Example 3: 0.20 ÷ 0.15 = 1.33 1.33 cubed = 2.35 Hence: 0.15 x 2.35 shims = one 0.20 shim Its a cut and paste out of an Ohlins shock service manual. Its very good and also goes into shim stack theory get one of you can. Its helped me .
  6. Can you use shims from the stock stack That you're replacing with the GV ? The shims missing in the kit are fairly common in stock stacks. Mog .I suggest . "you can't argue with stupid"...
  7. My friend sold the bike to a local guy from Kansas last march I believe.
  8. I have seen & rode A buddy's 17crf 450 revalved by FC .The forks topped out in quick successive hits such as whoops.As you described. I disassembled them to verify some thing hadn't come loose I did not find anything. It annoyed him & was sent back to FC & returned only slightly better, They did not find any thing wrong. This was early He just ended up selling it. I had a 15 rmz w TAC fork do the same thing. FC revalved only in whoops & light front end situations that would have a High speed shallow fork impact. 2"- 3" I offer no solution Other than what mog suggested . However I'm curious if Showa speced a bit too soft of A top out spring . I have seen stiff mid valves cause cavitation on quick hits in whoops . This hinders rebound refill & will top out as you mention. If all else fails call FC .
  9. MX tech has a spring chart. I have found it to be right on for me. It's on the website, Click tech info ..then spring chart ..then link shock .. looks like 4.7 kg to 4.8 if you're on the taller side. They specifically don't list a 350 but you can get a solid idea, I go 1kg less than the spring 450 line. mogs suggestion of a 4.6kg would be good as you mentioned trails. But if you are over 6' I would go up a kg.. You may need a click or 2 of rebound for any of these stiffer rates If you are going by the RT calculator It seem off a bit for KTM's anyway I have ridden a 17 350xcf on a moto track hooked up great but with the stock springs it was a wallowing bottoming mess for me at 200# Try Diverse springs or factory connection between those 2 they will have nearly any rate you need .
  10. If I were to drop my psi to 130 2 hours later I would be in the OR getting wrist surgery. I'm in the 150 - 154psi depending on the track with compression about 4-8 out stock valving. See everyone is different. I may or may not like the spring conversion But I gonna test it. The bike in my avatar was a 16 with full Ohlins . I prefer the AER to the Ohlins,Bling factor aside.
  11. let me say this My Brother n Law & my self have a great private track . So we have a lot of people who want to come ride . So it's known you ride my track, I'm riding your bike fair enough...So I get to ride every new stock & modded bike around. My Opinion is the AER is the best & easiest to set up for the avg guy. I like them .I found a workable PSI & raced them stock worked good w/Good btm resistance. The kawi TAC was a close 2nd but after the new wore off 3 chambers too much trouble. RMz Tac stock no Thanks PSF 1 OK & good with a FC revalve. PSF2 no thanks What I don't like about the AER is the breakaway stiction & the ft tire traction feel with the psi I prefer. Then they ride a bit high. Also track to track they need something adjusted. My last 4 personal bikes were [2] 17 350's,17 crf 450 ended up not getting along with it & a 16 yz250f I could ride it anywhere any terrain with little to no adjustment resprung of course . Also I have put in about 50 hours on AER's. So I was just given a Race Tech spring conversion to test. Dropped it in last night. full disclosure I have tweaked AER valving for my air spring & shock is valved stiffer along with a stiffer spring. But the spring kit, per garage test is very compliant in the first 75mm. AER's not so much. My assumption is I will have to stiffen valving a bit ,but just a guess at this point. 200 # vet A I have ridden a conversion on a 17 350 xcw. The whole thing was so soft I won't give any comments. Rode a MX tech psf 1 sff spring conversion did not like it as well as FC revalved PSF1 same bike. I will give a short review of the conversion providing I don't get rained out tomorrow. But generally don't get involved in these threads as I'm not keen on being told my Opinion is wrong .I have ridden 40+ years & know what I'm looking for, Along with being Too busy to argue.
  12. I seen these 52mm cove valve forks on ebay. I think these are super hard to find . They are not mine .
  13. I needed a stiffer rate rear spring on my 17 crf450. After being told next month a few times. The stock rear is 240mm + - So on my my shelf had the correct rate , it was just a bit too long @ 251mm [14 Crf 250 I believe ] It would go on but was at the max length on the threads. After looking it all over I came up with this. I machined a new circlip groove 12mm down the cup at the shock bottom. Of course the shock had to be dissembled but I wanted to mod my shock damping any way . Works perfect. I have a lathe & super easy . I think you could go a few more mm But was not necessary Of course when spring are available this mod will be of no use to others but I saved $110.00 & no wait.
  14. I picked mine up in Bartlesville OK on dec 1st .It arrived nov.30th OTD was 8299.00 no sales tax. If i were to register in in my home state I would have to pay a sales tax no need as Oklahoma does not report sales to Missouri & I do not need a title. been doing it this way since 1979
  15. I had the same thing on my 17 350 split filter & kinked fuel line. I split a small length of 3/8 copper tubing & crimped around the kink keeping it round. I tied fishing line around the fuel line on the supply side of the filter to pull it into the fuel tank to lessen the chances of a new kink.