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mxracer515

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About mxracer515

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    TT Bronze Member

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Missouri
  • Interests
    I've been racing since 1978. Play guitar ,Modded & hand built a few amplifers .I only do cool stuff.

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  1. To simply swap the spring run the red adjuster all the way up wd 40 before you start. remove lower shock bolt & the rear link bolt swing linkage out of the way push up spring seat on shock & remove clip . The spring will drop out the bottom reverse to install. To swap shock remove shock bolts upper & lower.. remove front link bolt. Remove pipe. Pull shock out through mud flap hole sometimes it helps to completely remove mud flap & raise the bike up a bit 10 minutes once you learn to do it.
  2. mxracer515

    How to make the 16 450SX-F lighter?

    Mog brings up a good point.. I have a husky rockstar edition when I put my CV forks on it you could feel a slightly heavier front feel but after 5 laps you forget.. I never noticed again. I am also sure the forks performed so much better I ride with more confidence & therefore faster. Out of boredom I picked up a 19 yz450 well we all know it is heavier on the scales. In motion on the track it feels 10lbs lighter than the husky . More flick able. Same track back to back Im convinced it is the motor character & lighter flywheel feel that is at work here . I notice the yz's weight only in coming from fast straights breaking hard but not in every corner. The husky/ ktm engine is a metered controlled slower to get on top of power delivery. connected to the ground. The yz is quick spools up fast & requires throttle control or it will spin. As I have tested maps, the smoother slower deliveries seem to add a bit of weight to the bike. This is what the 450 shootouts were all Talking about saying husky/ ktm felt heavier . However the husky/ktm's are lap time machines I am willing to bet you can spend a $1000.00 on lightening up the bike but honestly wont notice much. But if you can tie these mods into a lighter lively engine feel that will be easier to perceive a weight loss.
  3. A 350 or any newer ktm/ husky shouldn't feel as you describe. make sure the tires are 13ft ....12.5/ 13 rear .. Set sag 105 -107 .MXA set up specs are a good starting point for clickers. set up the fork as they mention. loosen the top clamps pinch bolts , loosen the triple pinch bolt & snug the 17mm nut until the bars don't fall to the side ..re torque . I have had 4 - 350's 3- ktm & 1 husky they awesome bikes & great handling . I personally have no issues with the mx3s tires. they perform well from very soft to nearly hard pack. moto of course. I dont know what turn & stomp is but try smooth & flow .. Dont try & over ride it until you are more comfortable. Make sure you stay focused on technique. Any chance you are pulling in the clutch on corner entrance? .That will sometimes make a bike act like you mention. good luck
  4. Amateur day at Millville. pro national weekend
  5. mxracer515

    Where’s the 19 450’s at?

    Mini review of the 19 kx 450 also rode 18.5 rockstar edition Husky & WE Honda Power is snappy & lively off the bottom with a good pull into the mid but goes flat in the upper mid. I think a pipe will fill it in nicely .. RE& WE both have more mid & top . The KX goes through its power quick the WE & RE have useful revs way past the KX. The type of power gives the KX a light feel, lighter than it actually is. The WE has the same type feel. oddly enough the Husky is the lightest but has a heavier feel It doesn't snap up on the power as soon but that gives stability & planted feel at speed suspension; shock is good up to around 200 # the fork is soft if you are over 180# needs stiffer springs valving for me is borderline soft .. I give a slight edge to the KX on stock suspension . I am sure they all can be set up very good. Chassis; has comfort Turns effortlessly . but feels short & can be twitchy, but with a bit of tuning I'm sure that ca be tuned out. In deep soft dirt the WE has less wallow. KX & RE feel slimier but with more wallow than the WE.. At speed the RE is best , WE then KX Brakes on the KX are almost too grabby but you get use to them. hydro clutch has a great feel & a bit easier to modulate than the RE.. The WE clutch has a hard pull compared to the hydro units Full disclosure The kX has stiffer fork springs, raised fork oil level & a fair bit of suspension set up. Bars & grips changed .Also a PC pipe on the way .. 10 hrs on meter The WE was stock , sag set , compression & rebound added to fork/ shock. It also Had the handle bars swapped out' 2 hrs on meter The RE husky has the baffle in the muffler removed,air box drilled, TPS reset, & conevalve forks/ shock revalved 61 hrs on meter I'm A 200# vet A rider w/40+ years riding /racing experience The Husky RE is mine The KX & WE is by $$ Friend $$ If you are a kX guy do it great bike.
  6. mxracer515

    MX at 50

    RM9802 I'm 56 this year, If you were competitive years ago no reason to think once you are in bike shape & back ridding well that you shouldn't be up at the front. If your local track only has a 50+ class with no ,A,B,C it may be loaded with old fast guys. I'm almost always lined up with guys who raced LL , 1 guy has a +35 LL title from back in the day so you never know. However Be prepared to be a bit surprised with the pace & competitiveness ..No joke I'm riding around 100hrs a year with practice & racing.I put 35 hours on my 1st 17- 350, 65 on my 2nd & now have 44 on my 18. By the time the 19 is available I will be pushing 80hrs on this bike. Disclaimer I do have unlimited access to a great private track... I advise to remember you are older & ride in your comfort zone . If a situation arises that makes you uncomfortable [ sketchy jumps ] play it safe. It's a long season & you cant get better by nursing an injury.
  7. mxracer515

    Axel Block Dimensions

    The stock honda axle blocks are 39mm the ktm is 42.5. No go the blocks cock sideways too much...I have the honda axle on my ktm other than the easier to read markings you may not notice much. it is subtle. I had a 2016 honda axle & nut just bought the ride eng blocks. I dont think honda changed the axle blocks on 17's & newer. My opinion not worth the $100.00 bucks for the whole kit...If you have an axle like I did its just an ok mod @ $50.00 for the ride blocks .. buy a tire.
  8. I generally wont post in threads like this but I will offer this. On my 17 350 I ran the stock shock for about 20 hours stock then added a PR 2 bladder kit , MX tech low friction piston band with NO valving changes & used maxima 3w syn shock oil. Dynos' & science aside I want a certain feel. The first thing I notice is stock feels like when your new tire was installed & they did not set them to the correct psi say 25# plus compared tp a bladder .. Piston = high psi / bladder =correct pressure . An edger feel I suppose The 2nd thing I notice is smaller bump compliance/hookup at speed.The shock feels to react quicker/ track better I was not trying to test the bladder or I would not of installed the mxtech piston band. I knew the feel I was after & had used this process before. I do prefer the subtle feel & serviceability of the bladder. However I have raced & won on the stock shock. I have not replaced a piston due to failure, but Have replaced 4 or 5 bladders . Those had years of neglect. I have 3 vintage honda cr 250's 86,87 with the original bladder & the 89 has a bladder out of another old shock.. I service them yearly no issues .The 86's bladder is 31 years old ! Bladders can last..I added some vintage bike pics to lighten the mood .
  9. mxracer515

    Anyone done Wp Aer 48 to Kyb Conversion??

    I can add this as I tested a spring conversion & have ridden an FC relalved spring kit . all on a 350ktm . 1] drop a spring kit in with no valving changes the spring will have a first 1/3 of stroke better traction feel , a smoother more controlled feel & comfort. slap down is improved quite a bit. 2] mid stroke can be a bit hollow depending on bump / jump size 3] bottoming is worst than the aer & once you add damping/ oil to get back to aer btm resistance you mess up first 1/3 & mid to a degree 4] you notice the extra weight of the spring kit for a ride or 2 but goes away & feels normal The FC spring kit w/revalve was better in all areas than stock aer & stock aer with spring kit .I would not say night & day better Its good to very good but it's near $900.00 with shipping I have not ridden an aer air revalved by FC but I did try a MX Tech leaf spring with good results. If I was a woods guy who raced, a spring kit with mxtech leaf spring mid would be my 1st choice . Then an aer with leaf spring mid 2nd . Moto] If i was a low tech type guy who is finding the air setting a hassle. A spring kit with revalve is a good option. But it expensive & adds little to resale. The aer is not holding most riders back. A revalved aer I assume is on par. The 18 aer fork has a more comfort feel in 1st 1/3 with a better over all feel & for a few bucks The older aer can be up graded to 18 specs. You should do it as normal maintenance anyway. My biggest aer complaint is the high ft feel. but that fades to a degree & you get use to it. Always remember suspension is subjective & tracks are different . You are basically looking for what makes you have confidence For the track/ conditions you ride & find the balance between comfort & performance. Also don't forget the shock has a great deal of influence on fork performance. I have seen a hacky fork in breaking bumps be fixed by a shock adjustment. I am hearing technical touch has a retrofit kit w/ a kyb sss cart & a new fork lugs w/ btm cone for aer forks. around $1500.00 Hope this helps someone sorry to ramble on.
  10. mxracer515

    ***Best looking KTM contest***

    17 350 after a day of work FMF slip on CV fork trax shock
  11. mxracer515

    Racetech shims

    This may be what you're looking for. The stiffness of a shim is not linear in relation to its thickness. If two 0.15 mm shims are stacked together the stiffness will not equal one 0.30 mm shim. In fact it takes a little more than eight 0.15 mm shims to equal one 0.30 mm shim. To calculate how many thin shims it takes to equal one thicker shim the formula is approximately the same as for comparing the stiffness of dissimilar constant section beams. The procedure is to divide the thicker shim by the thinner shim to get the ratio between the thicknesses of the shims. Then if you cube the thickness ratio you will have an idea of how many thin shims it takes to equal one thicker shim. Example 1: 0.30 ÷ 0.15 = 2.00 2.00 cubed (2.00 x 2.00 x 2.00) = 8.00 Hence: 0.15 x 8.0 shims = one 0.30 shim Example 2: 0.25 ÷ 0.15 = 1.67 1.68 cubed = 4.66 Hence: 0.15 x 4.66 shims = one 0.25 shim Example 3: 0.20 ÷ 0.15 = 1.33 1.33 cubed = 2.35 Hence: 0.15 x 2.35 shims = one 0.20 shim Example 1: 0.30 ÷ 0.15 = 2.00 2.00 cubed (2.00 x 2.00 x 2.00) = 8.00 Hence: 0.15 x 8.0 shims = one 0.30 shim Example 2: 0.25 ÷ 0.15 = 1.67 1.68 cubed = 4.66 Hence: 0.15 x 4.66 shims = one 0.25 shim Example 3: 0.20 ÷ 0.15 = 1.33 1.33 cubed = 2.35 Hence: 0.15 x 2.35 shims = one 0.20 shim Its a cut and paste out of an Ohlins shock service manual. Its very good and also goes into shim stack theory get one of you can. Its helped me .
  12. mxracer515

    Racetech shims

    Can you use shims from the stock stack That you're replacing with the GV ? The shims missing in the kit are fairly common in stock stacks. Mog .I suggest . "you can't argue with stupid"...
  13. mxracer515

    Knock at the top of the stroke??

    My friend sold the bike to a local guy from Kansas last march I believe.
  14. mxracer515

    Knock at the top of the stroke??

    I have seen & rode A buddy's 17crf 450 revalved by FC .The forks topped out in quick successive hits such as whoops.As you described. I disassembled them to verify some thing hadn't come loose I did not find anything. It annoyed him & was sent back to FC & returned only slightly better, They did not find any thing wrong. This was early He just ended up selling it. I had a 15 rmz w TAC fork do the same thing. FC revalved only in whoops & light front end situations that would have a High speed shallow fork impact. 2"- 3" I offer no solution Other than what mog suggested . However I'm curious if Showa speced a bit too soft of A top out spring . I have seen stiff mid valves cause cavitation on quick hits in whoops . This hinders rebound refill & will top out as you mention. If all else fails call FC .
  15. MX tech has a spring chart. I have found it to be right on for me. It's on the website, Click tech info ..then spring chart ..then link shock .. looks like 4.7 kg to 4.8 if you're on the taller side. They specifically don't list a 350 but you can get a solid idea, I go 1kg less than the spring 450 line. mogs suggestion of a 4.6kg would be good as you mentioned trails. But if you are over 6' I would go up a kg.. You may need a click or 2 of rebound for any of these stiffer rates If you are going by the RT calculator It seem off a bit for KTM's anyway I have ridden a 17 350xcf on a moto track hooked up great but with the stock springs it was a wallowing bottoming mess for me at 200# Try Diverse springs or factory connection between those 2 they will have nearly any rate you need .
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