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About wheelieonthefirstride

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  1. Here's a picture of the cylinder. A bit of roughness can be felt with the fingertip.
  2. Intake and exhaust clamps are OK and have been properly secured, I will check the airbox thoroughly for holes, damage or anything that could let dirt get in there. Perhaps I've been a bit lazy changing/cleaning the air filter, about 500km/300miles average intervals. But I don't live or ride where it is particularly dusty and dry. And I'm fairly certain it was during a trackday it started occuring, and it was hot outside that day, so to me it seemed probable that hard riding + hot weather + old piston made this happen. The oil was fresh. About the sound, are you sure it couldn't be caused by this? I had the cylinder off this spring and everything was fine, and then there was no sound. I've ridden a fair distance after the sound started occuring and it hasn't gotten any worse (which perhaps would be the case if it was a bearing?). I don't have a dial indicator (will probably buy one before reassembling though), but I measured the axial play of the rod with a ruler and it definitely seemed to be under the service limit of 3 mm. No detectable radial play. Sound does not get notably worse under load. It just seems improbable that the sound comes from something else as the mechanic (whom I know is experienced) managed to guess that this was the problem judging from the sound.
  3. Ok I might be a little confused with the terminology as English isn't my first language, I don't mean that the piston was actually stuck to the cylinder wall (which I realized seized might mean?). So this isn't from overheating? I've just been cleaning my air filter too infrequently?
  4. So I've finally figured out what was making the sound I went to a local mechanic who listened to the engine and took a ride and he thought that it had seized the piston. Made sense to me as the sound seemed to occure out of nowhere (hasn't gotten worse since I first heard it) and I think I started hearing it during a track day, which puts a lot of stress on the little engine. So I took off the cylinder and piston and found out he was right. Now I've got a perfect excuse to buy a big bore kit! I've been doing some searches on ebay and found different brands of kits, which one is the most reliable? I'd love to find a dealer within Europe as I have to pay 25 % import taxes if I order from outside EU, and unfortunately for me it seems that most dealers are from the US. And secondly, I wonder if there's anything I could do to prevent this from happening again? Even though track days means a lot of revs for a 400cc engine, I don't ride it that hard, the straightaway on my local track is no more than 300-400 m or 1000-1300 ft, so I rarely reach more than 140km/h or 85 mph i 5th, and 110 km/h or 65 mph in 4th, which I think the bike should be able to handle. Is this just one of those things that are bound to happen after many miles (the bike has done 13 500) so I can ride hard without worrying for at least another 10k miles with a new cylinder? Edit. By the way I kept the auto-decomp, perhaps that was wise if I'm going to run big bore with thin base gasket.
  5. Took out the camshaft and had a look at the decomp today, seems to be fine but I think I'll remove it unless anyone has a good reason for me to keep it Then I can use my new compression tester as well http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nNWhEXofxOo
  6. Well the cam chain feels fairly tight but it does even if I loosen the MCCT just until the cam chain slap starts being heard. Wouldn't it be hard to make an accurate assessment of the chain tightness just using your finger? I've done the loctite fixes except the primary nut/counter balancer.
  7. I'm fairly sure it isn't the cam chain. If I unscrew the MCCT a short bit I start hearing the chain being too slack, but it doesn't sound like it's the same sound, and this noise is louder than the sound that arises when unscrewing the MCCT. I will check the autodecomp, checked the valves last week so should've done it then but didn't think about it! Was thinking about removing it anyway though as I bought a compression tester and even tried it on the bike and got scared because of the low numbers before remembering that there's an autodecomp fitted...
  8. Hi! My dear DRZ has started rattling a bit louder than usual the last 500 miles or so. It's got around 22 000 km/13 500 miles on the clock and it has been ridden quite hard, at least the last 4000 miles, so I guess it isn't too surprising that it starts requesting some more maintenance than regular oil changes (which have been done with 1000-2000 mi intervals). At first I thought it was the ACCT that was starting to give up so I bought the MCCT, but unfortunately it wasn't the cam chain - loosening or tightening the cam chain tensioner does not affect the noise/rattle that has started occuring. The valve play is correct. I've tried finding the origin of the sound using an engine stethoscope, however I find it very hard to tell if the noise is louder in any place. When listening around the crankcase it seems to sound a bit more high-pitched metallic than if listening around the cylinder and cylinder head. Could it be the main or crankshaft bearing that needs replacement? Now I know filming rarely makes sounds like these any justice but I think this clip reproduces the sound fairly well. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ufc0RRV-3Ug Any ideas? Thanks in advance!
  9. Hi Tony and thanks for your advice! Unfortunately I did not have the time to make sure that the head really was flat and/or sand it. I had to get it back together before yesterday, since I had a time for vehicle inspection then (every other year you have to get the bike checked to make sure it is in safe, working condition here in Sweden). I'm not sure if I would dare sanding it myself either, I think I'd rather get it checked by someone more experienced than me But from what I've read, it is quite unusual for heads to get warped in these engines, so I just thoroughly cleaned the mating surfaces and put it back together with my fingers crossed. So far it seems to have worked out well, it passed the inspection and I have now ridden about 50 miles since without coolant loss. Will keep checking coolant level before each ride for a while. On a side note I managed to destroy the threads on both of the bolts attaching the engine bracket to the frame when trying to torque them to the specified forty-something Newtonmeters. The bolt attaching the same bracket to the engine is supposed to be even more, 66 Nm, so I'm a bit confused about this. The threads got so crushed on one of the bolts that I couldn't get the nut off the bolt, so I'll have to drill them out some day and replace the bolts with something more durable. Thank you all for the help, I really appreciate it!
  10. I have now received my head gasket and removed the head. It felt like the head/cylinder bolts had been torqued much looser than when I removed the head the first time (last year). I googled the torque setting for the bolts and saw that it should be about 44 ft-lbs instead of 33 according to some of the experts on this forum. My workshop manual says 33. This is what my old gasket looked like:
  11. I was thinking it would be most likely to be leaking somewhere where all three of water, oil and combustion gases can mix as the water I drained smells quite bad, a burnt gasoline kind of smell. But what are the gaskets/o-rings I would need to buy if it would be something around the water pump/right side of the engine? Clutch cover gasket, the 2 water pump O-rings and the oil seal (#4 on the water pump parts diagram in the TT store)?I'm keeping my fingers crossed it isn't the welch plug... The bike has been taken care of well, have always had corrosion inhibiting coolant mix, and no overheating.
  12. Upon emptying the expansion vessel I found this. So I guess it is the head gasket after all. The water also smelled like gas or exhaust fumes and was a bit darker than normal. Could it be any other gasket than the one below the head? My local Suzuki dealer went bankrupt last autumn so I will have to order it from ebay or something and it will take a few days, so if there are any other possible parts that I need I wouldn't mind ordering it all at once.
  13. When I first saw the moisture on the dipstick I thought it might be some gasket or seal around the water pump, the head gasket, welch plug or something similar. But as the oil actually looked fine when I took it out (and it still does, no layering with water/oil in the bucket containing my used oil), I'm not sure. I can't see any oil in the water either, judging from what's inside the expansion vessel. That definitely feels like it could be a cause. Is it common for rad caps to go bad? I will try to find a workshop that has a pressure tester that fits tomorrow.Thanks for coming up with ideas, love this forum!
  14. Update: Refilled the bike with oil and went out for a ride. There seems to be no contamination of the oil and since it looked good when I drained I don't believe there's any problem with that. However, the water level in the radiator doesn't want to stay at the filler neck. It seems as if coolant is pushed out into the overflow tank when the engine heats up, but not all of it goes back into the radiators. I've noticed before that when I've filled the radiator to the top some of it will go to the expansion vessel and stay there, but the water level has always been visible when I've opened the rad - now it isn't though, I've topped it up three times and after riding and letting it cool down, the water level has dropped below where it is visible in the radiator, and the water level in the expansion bottle has risen. I'm thinking it might be pressure from the combustion chamber leaking into the cooling system, but shouldn't some water be drawn into the cylinder generating smoke then? Because there is absolutely no smoke now. Since I've refilled the radiator a couple of times now the expansion vessel is close to full even when cold - could this affect it in any way? The expansion vessel was about half-full before I started fiddling with this, since some water had stayed in there from previous fill-ups, or should I say overfills in the radiator. I will try and drain the expansion tank and see if that makes any difference - I have run out of coolant anyway so I will need to get some to fill the radiator back up I can add that last time I rode I touched both radiators at the top and they seemed evenly hot, still the water level was low when it had cooled. Another thing I might add is that the right radiator is a bit bent inwards in the middle after a clumsy friend of mine dropped the bike on a trailer this winter - but I guess that shouldn't affect this as there's no leak (I've let the bike idle in my garage for a while and there's not a drop of coolant anywhere).
  15. Hi all! Checked the oil in my DRZ today and unfortunately I found some white goo on the dipstick. I feared something might be leaking, so to be able to do a more thorough examination, I decided to empty the engine of oil, and the oil didn't seem to be much different from normal. Just a tiny bit of white on the surface after emptying all the oil. Picture: So my conclusion was that it was probably just some condensation moisture, as the bike has been used fairly infrequently the last 5-6 months and the last few weeks there have been a lot of short commuting trips of around 4-5 km (like 3 miles). HOWEVER, when I checked the water level in the radiator I found out that there was too little, much too little for me to feel comfortable. By using the air bleed screws and topping up the radiator I managed to put in probably around 4 deciliters (about a tenth of a gallon). There is quite a lot of water in the expansion vessel though. There has been no noticeable amount of smoke from the exhaust when the engine's been hot and as far as I can tell the bike has been running perfectly normal. What should I do? Should I be worried? Can I fill it up with some new oil and monitor the oil and radiator levels closely? Thank you in advance for help with this problem! /Felix