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About overgrownmoose

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    North Carolina
  1. Hell, that's harder than the hill climb for me.
  2. Check out the bolt on the foot lever that activates the switch. If you don't hear a very light click down there when you press the rear brake the switch is stuck on.
  3. I have ridden the WRR (completely stock) and IMO it is a better bike in every way than my DRZ with 3x3. Stock vs stock it is no comparison. If you compare a built WRR to a built DRZ it gets a little tougher. The WRR will always win in the dirt, but a built DRZ will dominate the road. The only issue I have heard of the with WRR is fuel pump failures. Only the early 2008 models are affected. For the late 2008 to present they switched to a different fuel pump that has been problem free as far as I know.
  4. Take it to the dealership. Don't waste a second of your time working on a 3 day old bike. Make you you get a loaner bike while yours is in the shop too because they will be busy this time of year.
  5. The longer the bike sits, the more oil drains into the crankcase. That is why you have to run the bike to check the oil level. If you are unable to extract the bolt you may have to drop the engine and bring it to a machine shop. They should be able to get it out easily.
  6. Lock some vice grips on it tight, put a rod over the handles and turn. Or dremel a slot across the bolt and insert a large flat blade screwdriver perpendicular to the bolt and turn. Edit: hit it with penetrating oil a few times over the course of a day to help loosen it up. Then give it a few good whacks on the head of the bolt with a hammer.
  7. I hope that was a joke.
  8. It's the hydraulic resistance from the oil between your clutch plates. It's completely normal. If you try it when the bike is warm you will notice that the effect is less pronounced because the oil becomes less viscous at high temperature.
  9. Keep your arms almost locked. Most people with trouble doing wheelies don't realize that they are leaning forward. The hard part is fighting that instinct to lean forward.
  10. There is an e-type circlip that attaches to the stock carb's choke lever. It connects the rods with the 3 positions to the choke rod that moves freely. I went to take a ride today and the circlip was missing. I threw on another from my spare carb before my ride. Got home and it's missing again. WTF? Anyone else have this problem? I'm going to take a closer look in the morning when I have good light and see if I can figure out what's happening.
  11. The yellow circle on top is the fuel screw. It shouldn't be leaking. Screw it in all the way and count the turns. It should be 2.5 to 2.75 turns. Then unscrew it back 2.5-2.75 turns from fully tightened. If it still drips then you will need to completely unscrew it and replace the o ring. You can find the right size in any old box of o rings, just make sure they are gasoline resistant (Buna-N/Nitrile). Loosen the red screw to drain the carb and it will come out of the nipple right below that.
  12. Destroyed my speedo drive cable in the dirt on something or another. Found some wild blackberries growing pretty close to the house though. Time to make some blackberry wine!
  13. Could be a failed petcock. Pull the fuel line off the carb and see if fuel continues to come out with the engine off. It shouldn't.
  14. There's only one fuse. If it was blown there would be no power at all.
  15. Air filter soaked in water? Water in an electrical connector?