jgear19

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About jgear19

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    TT Newbie

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  • Location
    Texas
  1. http://www.jetsrus.com/FAQs/FAQ_jetting_repository_write_up.html This is what I followed. Worked Great! A couple of buddies of mine and myself set up three of these and we would back yard race. Best fun ever with these bikes.
  2. Checked all connectors, each one is tight. Only one I removed was the tps and that was handled by the plug only with a solid click when I plugged it back in. The low fuel light never flashed/blinked, just stayed on and went away as I mentioned above.
  3. Assuming you have checked for spark. Check your carb bowl for crud. If that's clean, do a compression test. If that all checks out, check your valve clearances.
  4. I picked up a 2015 350 XCF-W with 21 hours on it and a Rekluse 3.0. Rode it twice and it now has 27.5 hours. First ride had stock .57v TPS setting and stock silencer. Rode fair but not to my preference. Adjusted TPS to .61v and FMF silencer. Second ride did not fair too well, kept stalling out at 10 -15 mph. I noticed the fuel light would come on (full tank of fresh fuel) and the bike would run as if in "Limp Mode". I would restart it and the light would go away and the bike would run fine. Occasionally a hit a rock that would turn the fuel light back on and the limping started again. But i could jarr the bike on some more rocks and the fuel light would shut off and the bike would run great. This happened a few times. Practically had to throttle it like a carb bike to keep it lit at times, even at 20-25 mph. Got back home and checked all connections, pulled to fuel pump to inspect for crud, and cleaned out the tank. Other than the crappy wire insulaters that peeled off on the fuel pump wires, everything seemed normal.The fuel level sensor didnt have any crud on it. Put it all back together and ran fresh fuel, started up like normal. Ran the VIN through KTM website for recalls, didnt see any. Going to ride this weekend, see what happens. Anyone run into similar issue or have any thoughts on this?
  5. Sounds like your kickstart lever and boss (the metal part that mounts to the shaft) are worn. Either the detent needs adjustment at the lever or the detent indention is probably worn on the boss causing the lever to swing over further when it returns in. As for the lever dropping down further, that is just a lot of wear at both the boss and lever from 16 years of use. It will still be usable until that one day the lever decides to part from the bike.
  6. By the looks of your photos, most likely the two inspection cap o-ring seals have hardened and shrunk allowing oil to seep out all over the place. They are cheap and easy to replace yourself. Check out an online OEM parts catalog for the diagram. This would also be a good time to check your valve clearance. Give that head a good cleaning before you begin. As for the hole, that is a casting hole that is never used.
  7. Texas

    I ride with a group, usually 3 to 4 of us depending on who is free to ride. We are always looking for more people to ride with. We are based out the mid cities as well and hit up most of the trails around the area, with some places away from the DFW area.
  8. Texas

    Was there a few weeks ago, first time, had a blast. The expert loop entrance was a wake up call. The owner thought my buddy and I were crazy for riding that loop. Should be heading back there next month, bringing more people to ride it.
  9. www.txtracks.com and www.riderplanet-usa.com are good sites to check out area riding. The DFW area has quite a few places to ride at. A lot of the cross country orgs have prerides prior to races to burn in the tracks without having to be a part of their race, get to ride some neat places. Some other riding locations are about 2.5 hours average drive away: Red River, Crossbar Ranch, Barnwell Mtn, CTOR, Hidden Falls...
  10. I encountered this same issue with a 2008 250 XCFW rear wheel after replacing the bearings. I even used a large socket to press the bearings in. Then bam, the wheel locked up on tightening the axle. After scratching my head a bit, pulled the bearings and took measurements of the bearing seats from shoulder to shoulder and compared that to the length of the inner spacer. The spacer is longer, so I looked at the hub bearing area on the drive side and noticed that the aluminum was shiny were the bearing sits vs. the color of the seat that was untouched. Figured out that the drive side bearing outer race does not seat up to the shoulder in the hub, and using the open end socket to press in the bearing by the outer race (like every other bearing the in world is done at home) forces it out of alignment causing this issue . So I flipped my socket and used the back side flat to press the bearing back in up to the spacer. It worked fine after that. I assumed that the factory had machined the hub wrong or it was a strange engineering practice by KTM.
  11. You might check if the center bearing spacer is sticking out past the drive side bearing seat once the brake side bearing is seated.
  12. Ive been using a VE33/VE35 combo for the last 5 years. The rear tends to wear 2-3 times faster than the front, dependent on where we ride (Dallas-Fort Worth Area, Lower Oklahoma, East Texas), mostly singletrack, rocky, muddy, technical. On Average about 2 rear tires a year are spent. Ive used one or two for over a year (depending on how thin my wallet gets) and have had decent rides.
  13. Check on www.jetsrus.com in the carb rebuild kit section. Shows to have a mid body gasket kit for your bike but you need to verify with the photo. http://www.jetsrus.com/individual_parts/KL_18_7968.html