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LennyLedoux

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About LennyLedoux

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    TT Newbie

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    Ecuador
  1. LennyLedoux

    2008 and newer Yamaha xt250 discussion thread.

    I will admit I was concerned with the brake form method of fabrication, I will presume your rack broke in one of the bends? I decided to go with it as vibration cracking can occur on welds as well, depending on the quality of preparation and welder. I will not know how it would have worked out as it turns out Yamaha markets two versions of this bike. Mine is a XTZ 250 as opposed to the XT 250 sold in the states. My bike is built in Brazil and this probably explains why I have FI on a 2011 when the 2013 of the XT 250 is the first to get it. I have not been able to find a luggage rack listed for the XTZ 250. Further I would like to comment that I have now received two additional emails from Immix Racing and I want to apologize to them if I have given them a negative review in any way. They are willing to work with me regarding return. I have not decided whether I will or not as the cost of shipping and the shipping I have already incurred to Ecuador may not make it feasible. But the real point is that they are willing to work with me and that says a lot for the company in my opinion. I wonder how many more differences there are between the two models. If I knew how to upload a photo to this link from my MAC, I would, it is a nice looking bike in my opinion.
  2. LennyLedoux

    2008 and newer Yamaha xt250 discussion thread.

    I have a new 2011 Yamaha XT250 that I bought here in Cuenca, Ecuador. While only 500km into use I have seen some incredibly beautiful country and the little bike that could, does. I ordered a luggage rack from the States, Immix Racing product. The fitment list states 2008 to current. Under their website Q&A a person asks about fitment on a 2013 and the response was yes. If you review their Youtube installation video and the product itself you will note that the grab handle locations are where the unit mounts and that those bolts are horizontal. The rack is also wider than the frame requiring use of supplied spacers to take up the difference. However, on my bike the rear two bolts are installed vertical and the frame is 1 3/4" wider than the rack. Customer service is non-existent in my opinion as their response was to "sell it on Ebay." The product itself looks very good, well made. This is a laser cut and brake form shaped steel unit that is powder coated black. Looks to be durable, the required installation hardware is supplied. Just make sure it fits your bike. Lenny.
  3. LennyLedoux

    motion pro cable luber????

    Cables usually fail at the exit from the housing which is why they require grease in that area. Cables will fail inside the housing however, if they don't have lubrication. With grease at the exits and lubrication inside the housing cables will last a very long time. I agree with the suggestion of using the boot as a funnel, simplicity and function, a gear head's best friend. Wish I knew how to upload pictures into this forum, I spent four plus hours on my Yamaha XT250 in the mountains around Cuenca, Ecuador today.
  4. LennyLedoux

    motion pro cable luber????

    I built a Honda CR750 repli-racer and needed special length cables for the clutch and tach. Motion Pro did a fine job of making those cables. Some of their stuff is not quite up to snuff, however, they charge less for them. But the chain breaker of theirs I had years ago was a waste of money. I found the RK unit to be much better and very durable, meaning it would last for years as opposed to a one time use that broke twice. It just depends on the specific product I suppose, but trial and error can be expensive. It is best to research and where possible compare products side by side to see the difference in design and fabrication.
  5. LennyLedoux

    motion pro cable luber????

    WD-40 is not a lubricant and is a poor choice for the job. I can tell you from years of experience what works best for me, needle point oilers. You may have seen these sold in hobby stores for the RC car hobby. They have a fine machine oil inside of them and the needle point oiler works very well for a no muss, no fuss insertion of oil. Of course if you squeeze too much in at a time it will overflow the housing. Another method is to take a small funnel and clip the end to just fit over the cable end but not the housing. Using this method I have loosened the downstream end of the cable and placed it over a butter tub. Then I can put oil into the funnel and when it runs into the butter tub I know I have oil throughout the length. In my opinion aerosol lubricants are a waste of time, especially for cables and chains. While on that subject I will say that for years of sport bike riding I cleaned my chain (and the rest of the bike) every two weeks, in my case about 600 miles, with Simple Green, just spray it on, wash the bike and then using an older wash mitt soaked in the bucket, wash the chain. Light the bike off and put in gear (I was on a swing arm stand) and sling the water off. Once dry I put a cardboard under the chain and with my trusty squirt oil can apply 90-140wt differential oil (WalMart brand, cheap) and run a bead down the length of the chain on the inside of the plates. I would get 20,000 plus miles on chain and sprockets where most of my friends were getting 8-12,000 miles for lack of attention.
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