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About Swappa

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  1. Swappa

    Wide ratio transmission

    This old thread might help: Try the search function for thumpertalk and google.
  2. Piston at 25hrs? Sounds like a bloody Honda. That's not very many hours for a KTM. Is that the recommended service interval? I'll need to look into the engine out comment. So you're not able to get the head off with the bike in the frame? Seems like there would be loads of room once you get the head off, at least that's been my experience on other similar 4 strokes. I did hear about the 2016 having some gearbox trouble, thanks mog.
  3. I'm looking for a barely used KTM/Husky 250F in it's most recent form (2015.5+) and it seems like the older bikes (4CS fork) are definitely cheaper. I feel like I can fix the forks fairly easily as I have a set of SSS cartridges laying around. Are there are other things that I would need to do to really bring the 2016ish bike up to the 2018? I know that the chassis and airbox received some major mods for 2019 and those are somewhat out of reach, but I thought I would ask about the rest of the bike and best 'bang for buck' or if I should be looking at a <50hr 2018, which seem to go for $6k in my part of the US ($$!!).
  4. Swappa

    16 250sx knocking noise at idle when cold

    Bike sounds tight! Not many hours to my 'trained' ear. I had a right main bearing fail on my 2011 250sx after it had an almighty amount of hours (300+) added to the poor thing. I remember riding practice on Wednesday before a Saturday race and thinking the bike sounded loud. There wasn't much I could do in just four days till Round 1 of 2016. I remember sitting on the start line and the guy looked over at me and asked if my bike was okay during warm up. It was pretty dang obvious, lol. It only lasted another 15 min before the bearing broke and the rod started to wobble. The lesson for me is that you need to check rod play at the crank, but to check the crank bearings, here is what you need to do: The easiest way is to pull the left engine cover and grab the flywheel. If it's going out, it will have some movement. In the moments /hours before the rod lets go, you will probably have leaky crank seals which could be excess oil in the crank case or an air leak. Seems like the right/wet side is the most common point of failure, presumably because this is the input side. In my experience, once the clutch plates starts to wear, there can be quite a bit of clutch slap, as the drive tangs contact the fingers of the basket. That is more than likely what you're hearing. Either that, or your pipe is loose. 2016 and older KTMs have terrible pipe mounts that are forever coming loose or breaking.
  5. Swappa

    2013 250xc jetting

    You could lean it out to clean up the spooge while cruising in 6th, but when you got on the gas hard at the motocross track or in the desert, you might seize. 2-stroke tuning is a compromise.
  6. Swappa

    2013 250xc jetting

    Spooge is from too much gas (rich on the small jets), not too much oil. As mog says 50:1 is safe. Note that at 50:1, you're giving the bike more fuel than at 42:1, so you will be richer/have more spooge if you switch ratios from 42 to 50:1. Stick to a consistent oil ratio that you're happy with, and jet around that. FYI, spooge is totally normal for a 250xc on a 6mile run along a dirt road. You said it ran really well after your adjustments. No real reason to keep tinkering with it for the season.
  7. Good one, Sammy! There is also a dedicated suspension forum within thumpertalk that may have even more info on tuning. Next stage might include some shims or other fork parts that you could DIY if need be.
  8. Swappa

    2013 250xc jetting

    Sputtering after 1. Sounds fairly normal to me. 2. Loading up is typically fixed by air screw adjustment (use the range to tell you if you need to go leaner on pilot jet) and/or lowering the needle in the carb body (raising the clip).
  9. Swappa

    Routing of carb vent hoses

    At least one of the lines (maybe two) is a carb overflow line, which is effectively a drain for when the carb is over-filled. That drain tube needs to be below the level of the carb to work by gravity. Back in the day, we used to put T's in the vent hoses to split each line. We would run one set down to the usual spot behind the engine, and the other set, we would route into the airbox, into a canister. Search PC racing carb vents to see what I mean. Splitting the lines would help reduce bogging for wide open throttle when landing. Also, if the lower vents were submerged in water or blocked by grit, they could breath through the canister. If you ride in a lot of silt/dust, consider putting a filter on the vent lines. As a vent line, they are sometimes under a slight pressure and sometimes under a slight vacuum. When under vacuum, or if you bomb through silt, it can work its way into the float bowl and eventually into the engine.
  10. Swappa

    AER 48 Q

    No. Is nigertron a typo? I figured you meant nitrogen.
  11. Swappa

    AER 48 Q

  12. Basic service of the bike including oil, new brake pads, bleed brakes and clutch, add protection, consider taller gearing (minus a couple teeth on the rear) to soften the power and in case there are fire roads. Obviously HD tubes/or bib mouse tubes. Work on your cardio off the bike, practice some 45+min motos. Get used to wearing a hydration system and drink from it while riding. Bigger tank should help work the suspension a little better, revalve if you can afford.
  13. Swappa

    2019 300 TPI range?

    Pic of this loop?