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About Swappa

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  1. 125 Yamaha guy, sounds like a decent deal at $600. Sounds like a slipping clutch to me and you would try a clutch adjustment first. Does the clutch lever have any resistance to pull? If no, an adjustment would definitely help. The dealer should be able to help you with that for free or there are plenty of links on youtube.
  2. If you bought your YZ125 from a dealer, and it doesn't work now, take it back there for them to check out. If they say the clutch is broken, that's more than likely, your problem. To test a slipping clutch, put your front wheel against a solid wall and let out the clutch as if you were going to take off/try to push against the wall. If the bike stalls, the clutch is probably fine. If it revs and does not stall, clutch is slipping. Wear a helmet during the test.
  3. Seen this a few times. It's as easy as extracting a broken stud. Certainly, heat and a couple of nuts locked together are the easiest way to go. You could make a replacement stud from a M6 bolt with the head cut off. If you have your pick of bolts, I'd go with one that is heat treated/hardened. If you are able to make it the same length as the factory bolt, you should be able to refit the OEM castle/cap nut, flat and spring washer. Thumbs up on the build. Looks awesome!
  4. It's winter/cold so bogging could be a lean bog. Report back on what jets you have. If you were running 32:1, an easy switch is to run a batch of 50:1. If the bike runs better, you've probably got to step up one or two pilot jet sizes.
  5. At the extreme end, you could unscrew the fork leg. My 2007 YZ250F fork leg was loose in the axel lug when I got it. Spoke to my suspension guy and he suggested that I make repairs to the fork guard bolt holes if any were needed, before setting the leg back in the lug.
  6. 1. Don't buy a used racer's bike 2. Low hour, every time. Forget about the year! 3. There was some upgrades through the years 2011-2018 but I highly recommend finding the lowest hour example of the 350 and go from there. Doesn't matter if it's sx, xc, xcw 2011 through 2018. Someone already posted in this thread about how good their 2011 is to ride. I have a 2013 and it's a very nice bike. Is the 2018 a better bike? Well it probably is, but I doubt that it's twice as good, bc that's how much they cost.
  7. At $5,5k, your phone is ringing and you should be able to sell it privately in a week or less, IMHO. That's my CA perspective, where used bikes seem to sell for more than in TX.
  8. Sounds like a set of 2005 forks will be perfect for the 'questionable all round' 2009 YZ125. You will need to swap the entire front end, including the clamps and brake, to the 2005. Your 2005 front wheel with new tire will work, though.
  9. I have a near-new rear fender and shrouds and an older airbox cover for a 2009 if interested, send me a private message.
  10. Keep your butt/arse off the seat while braking. It will stop you from jamming on the brake by accident.
  11. The bearings should be assembled with a squirt of engine oil. If that's not done, it's going to rumble when you spin it by hand. Yamaha don't sell faulty cranks, and it's usually shipped in a padded bag ... unlikely that the crank is an issue.
  12. If it starts easily by the lever, fresh oil, fuel and airfilter, you should be good to go. Lack of use and the cold weather is probably dragging down the cold cranking amps of the battery. I'd trickle charge it and dump the gas into a car/truck and replace with fresh stuff. 2003 WR250 has an auto decompressor. Not that hard to kick over.
  13. You should be fine to go another 20hrs @kxfreak Your bike looks really fresh. You can always plug in the GYTR tuner and take a reading on the hour meter, which I'd hope has not been reset. Between 2014 and 2016, Yam made a lot of small improvements to the crank and piston that help with the longevity of both. Surprised that you would need to adjust valves with how new your bike looks.
  14. I recall that when I had my 2014 YZ250F, thre were reported troubles with snapped cranks, broken shift stopper tip and waterpump problems, among other things. If you're new to this bike, changing the top-end gives you a chance to check the crank for play, as well as a chance to inspect the valves, chain and lower gear. If I wasn't sure on the number of hours on the motor, I would definitely be installing a new piston.
  15. What about tires? They must have been pretty bald after 500 hours of tough enduro.