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saltysalt

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About saltysalt

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    New Hampshire
  1. saltysalt

    Jetting

    yes, but there used to be a lot more BB in the FCR39
  2. saltysalt

    Jetting

    I think you should haha, i know there used to be a spread sheet on google docs, but it got removed? i did save a copy, but way too late and it doesn't have all the big bore infos for the fcr39
  3. saltysalt

    Jetting

    Good to know, have you put together like a spread sheet of all these jetting configurations?
  4. saltysalt

    Jetting

    yeah im not looking for the best marginal performance, I enjoy my longevity and reliability I may just get both and see which one runs better does the EMP needle have more taper?
  5. saltysalt

    Jetting

    Ah ok, here is actually what I have currently 160 main, EMN/017-262 most likely on the third clip and the pilot air is stock and main air is stock
  6. saltysalt

    Jetting

    yea the its slant, fcr39 that comes with the E would the spark arrestor be a cork as much as a quiet insert? CE has already been deleted
  7. saltysalt

    Jetting

    Im curious what I should run for jets, True E: 3x3, fcr39, 434cc, Foam Air filter, MRD/SSW header / exhaust w/ spark arrestor, 0-1000ft, 40-85 deg F I think right now I have a 155 main, 45 pilot, 3rd clip on EMN and fuel screw out 2.5 turns and now im adding a big bore next week
  8. saltysalt

    A few questions for rebuilding

    just ordered a cylinder works kit! cant wait for the power, I forget my needle/position and pilot jet, but I know im running 2.5 turns on the fuel screw, from what I understand, just need a 1 size smaller main, which I may not bother
  9. saltysalt

    A few questions for rebuilding

    well it looks like I sucked some piston rings, I don't know the extent of the damage quite yet, head is still on, only had time to drain the oil and coolant yesterday. found metal on the drain plug, inside the filter and the bottom of my oil drain pan. I figure since everything needs to come off, mind as well go big bore. http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/141229107069?lpid=82&chn=ps or http://www.amazon.com/Cylinder-Works-41001-K01-Big-Bore/dp/B0018EMROE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1438181651&sr=8-2&keywords=drz400+big+bore&pebp=1438181665516&perid=1TM1CPTG8TVJY93NQDD6 or https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/921/3783/Wiseco-Big-Bore-440-Kit?term=drz400 big bore ive heard good things about CP and cylinder works. kinda leaning more towards the CP, only because that's the gasket I want to run, instead of trying to split the cylinder works one also I should find out what the jetting would be with a 434 kit, sea level and 50-90 deg F for jetting, 3x3, mrd/ssw
  10. saltysalt

    A few questions for rebuilding

    this is exactly the reason why I wont just get another bike, I already have suspension that works for me, I already have all the bits and pieces to the bike that makes it go above and beyond a normal DRZ. the engine was the only thing not modified, and that seems like it will be changing now. I have rebuilt rm125 forks, factory connection rear suspension, sumo setup, dirt setup. kicker added, manual decomp added. and all the bits a stock E comes with including the deletion of the accelerator pump. I even have the rare MRD/SSW exhaust power isn't a concern, I was ok with the way it was, but I do enjoy when I have to do work to it, to give it more. I also have a zx6r for power. not trying to build a super screamer, I want the reliability that these bikes are known for. which recently, I have not experienced haha as for polishing the head, its polishing the inside =D allow the air to flow easier, granted the intake you make smoother, not polish, the exhaust you polish to near mirror
  11. saltysalt

    A few questions for rebuilding

    even the E cams? i thought the E cams were identical to hotcams stg 1. so I would need hotcams stage 2?
  12. saltysalt

    A few questions for rebuilding

    why would I need a beefier cam? and as much as I would want the ACT gears, I don't think I need them for that amount of work
  13. saltysalt

    A few questions for rebuilding

    Well, as you may or may not know, I think I lost the piston or rings in my DRZ last week. its a true E with modifications. after checking everything, I figure if the piston is coming out its going to be bigger. if the crank is coming out, its going to be bigger. im not entirely sure what is wrong, but I have no compression, and I haven't pulled the head yet. but it definently sounds like the crankcase is pressurizing. but I was looking at big bore kits, I was really curious why some kits are 11.3:1 compression ratio and like 12.5:1? granted the S and the E have different, is that the real reason? or it is because some people deck the heads and require the lower comp piston? I would like to stay at my 12.5 since theres 93 around me everywhere. I don't see any benefit to lowering the compression. I was also wondering, if the stroker is worth putting in. I do quite a bit of trails riding, and a lot of street riding in sumo. I feel like I would greatly enjoy the extra torque. I also plan on polishing the head, with potentially a minor port. I already have the E cams and the FCR slant since it is a true E. I also have a kicker. does the big bore and stroker make a big enough difference to justify the work?
  14. hey your bike blew up with mine! although I think I may have blown apart rings or a hole in the piston. luckily I didn't drop a valve
  15. ive had two people suggest I put a hole in the piston.... looks like ill be removing the head and draining the oil.
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