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About Mat_UK

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    TT Newbie

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  • Location
    United Kingdom
  1. Hi Guys, I just got a Vortex X10 CDI off eBay, it was suggested that even though it was for a '03 bike, it might fit an '01/'02. Unfortionatly one of the connectors genders is reversed so it wont fit. After i looked into it it became apparent that their are major diferences in loom design and method, the '03 bikes run a DC feed to the CDI unlike my '01 which runs three wires direct from the AC magneto. Getting round to my question, does anyone here think they may have a workaround for this or the knowlege to say that its realy not worth it. Its just that ive got this thing here and its winking at me DAAAARRRHH! Thnaks in advance - Mat
  2. Mat_UK

    Adding a horn to an 01 WR

    phil, just check you wired the capacitors in parallel and not series. They dont add up like resistors do. mat
  3. Mat_UK

    Adding a horn to an 01 WR

    Flip... I've also used the KTM switch on my '01 WR and had the same horn issues. It took me a while to suss out that its going to need a DC supply but ive been assured that you can buy an AC horn and slap it straight on. Interseting to see you posting again, i replied to you when you just got your bike but i suppose you never went back too the thread. Only reason being im in the same neck of the woods and ride the same bike as you. Best of luck and let me know how you go. Mat
  4. Mat_UK

    02 WR250 Clutch issues?????

    Ive also heard of fully synthetic olis causing this problem. My bike had a badly creeping clutch so i tried the M6 Washer fix as desribed in the FAQ but this didn't fix it. 2nd time round i checked all the steel and friction plates for warpage but noticed the plates towards the inside of the sandwich werent all that oily which led me too believe it was a lublication issue. Taking a chance i did the drilling of the clutch hub mod which didn't help either. Fianlly i put in a EBC kit of steel plates, friction plates and new heavier springs and its been great ever since. I would say the pull is a fair bit heavier now but who cares....at least it works! And its a good excuse to get a hydraulic conversion!
  5. Mat_UK

    Deep Water = Engine Stopped ;-(

    Thanks for the replies guys... Im guessing this problem of mine must have been carb venting issues as you say, i just cant understand why it was so incredibly difficult to start afterwards, i mean id still be there now if we hadnt found that hill. I do remember draining the float bowl cos some milky looking fluid was coming out of one of the breathers on the side of the carb so i suppose it could have been gunjing up jets or something, prehaps sucking water up the card breathers...?? Ill be doing the carb venting mods ASAP, im just glad id done the cam case breather mod before i went cos i didnt know their would be a problem kicking it over immersed in water - duuuuuh. Thanks chaps - Mat
  6. Just wondering if anyone has had experience of this or might have some ideas... We were riding on the Isle of Man (where they have the Isle of Man TT road race) alond some fairly muddy ruts filed with water when i was faced with a decision, either take the long way round or stick it in one that had reeds youd normally see round a pond. Well i went for it and went through in 1st gear at a brisk walking pace, walking my left foor along the side of the rut. The water was reasonable deep, say, covering the gearbox but below the card when it just died. No amount of kicking would make it go so we towed it out onto dry land and stripped all the plastic off and gave all the electrics a spray with WD40 lube but it still wouldnt go. Next,reassembled the bike and towed it to the nearest big hill and bumped it all the way down, blipping throttle occasionally. It started to make some coughs on the second attemps and eventually ran and ran perfectly but i must have done 300 yards of down hill bumping before it went. We got it back to camp and started throwing water on various parts to see if it would do it again but nothing. Baffled, i rode it if the rest of the week without incident although i did avoid deep water not wanting to risk being stranded anywhere too remote. I rode out again the other week and stuck it in lots more water and it did stop once but fired straight again first kick, so im assuming that it must have been water in the electrics somewhere and covering it in the WD40 lube dispersed it. Anyone any other suggestions? I'd love to know what it was cos i cant help but worry that its going to do it again but somewhere flat and with no cellphone coverage!!! Suggerstions greatly appreciated - Mat Adams (Manchester UK)
  7. Flip, Just saw a message you sent mentioning England so i had a read. I live in Manchester and also have a '01 WR. Hows the bike going? Done much riding? Mat (matsplatuk@yahoo.co.uk)
  8. Opps, i forgot. Didn't check needle code, i'd be surprised if it wasn't stock. Clip position is stock #3. Taverymuch
  9. Thanks for the replys guys. I stripped all the jets from the carb and gave them a dose of carb cleaner and compressed air. All the jet sizes appear to be stock, appart from the main jet which is a #178. (James, the pilot fuel is a stcok #42). Im assuming that the main jet would have little effect on the tickover issue i have, but, have ordered a stock #170 anyway. I've also got a #40 and #38 pilot fuel on the way to try them. CAn anyone give me some idea how far the idle speed (Black knob) should be turned in once its seated on the wheel the throttle cables turn? My bike wouldn't fire atall (to the extent i thought i had ignition failure) until the idle speed knob was turned in 2 to 3 turns (moving the wheel by about 2 - 3 mm) which seems a lot. I noticed after stripping the carb and reassembling it, their was a lot less engine compression with the idle speed knob backed right off. When wound it up the compression increased and the bike would start. I didn't expect this, can anyone explain. Thankyou all - Mat Adams
  10. Hi Guys, Im having problems with my '01 WR250F and was hoping someone could give me some suggestions. If i start at the beginning.... The bike came to me with some MX mods. These were a DEP MX exhaust and no air box snorkle. The pipe was too loud for the riding i do and we see a lot of water crossings so i put the standard pipe and the snorkle back on. The bike seemed to run OK so i didnt make any jetting changes cos i was soon to be getting a "quiet core" pipe. This shortly arrived in the form of a CRD Absolute Performance, i stuck it on and went out for a ride but the rain lashed down and the bike kept stalling at low RPM's and wouldnt tick over. In a fluster i messed around with the air mixture screw (not checking the origional setting) and made it worse. Now back in the garage, The bike won't start without the idle speed (Black knob) wound up and when i back it off to get a reasonbable idle RPM it stalls. I took the carb off and gave all the jets a clean and put it back on but it made no difference. I notice that the bike ticks over best with the mixture screw around 1/4 - 1/3 out so i wonder should i go for a smaller idle jet? Would this be likely to cause these problems? Im wondering if, with the idle speed wound up so high, wether the bike is even running on the idle circuit at all. Thankyou - Mat