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PRD91

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About PRD91

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    TT Newbie

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    Australia
  1. The floater ball is the same size as the pusher in the clutch throw out, and it's also the same size as the bearing behind the clutch. I have a feeling the aftermarket ones require replacement of the primary drive gear onto the basket. It was my intention to at least check on the cam chain/tensioner. The bike has done 7500kms, should I go for a full rebuild while I'm at it (top and bottom end?) I'm thinking it should be ok if I leave it but I'm not sure...
  2. Yeah, your probably right...that's the conclusion I'm coming too. And yeah I know I'll have to replace clutch basket, should I go oem or a billet aftermarket one? The price difference is about 100 bucks between them, OEM being more expensive.
  3. Hmm, I'll have to check. I'm guessing there will be some due to the damage to the clutch basket... I've never actually had a bearing fail on a bike, I'm guessing I'll know when it happens but what are some signs?
  4. That might explain it. The clutch does look in really good Nick with no wear....I put the cover back on without the clutch in it and the noise seems to have disappeared...I am gunna guess it was a combination of the ball bearing eating the clutch basket and the clutch rubbing...going to have to wait for a new clutch and check it out. In the mean time I'm gunna drain the oil and tAke the next case off to have a gander and make sure nothing else is rattling around...
  5. Ok so borrowed a mates rattle gun and got the clutch basket off (which is stuffed from the ball rubbing) bearing behind the clutch is ok, still got all it's balls... So far it's looking like a rogue ball has been flying around the sump from the previous owner and has stuffed my clutch up :/ Any other recommendations? I'm gunna pull the tappet cover and see if the cam chain tensioner has slipped and that might be causing the extra engine noise...
  6. Yeah I've never seen a bearing do that either, but so far it's the only explanation! Except that maybe if the clutch was replaced a whole ago and the little ball got lost in the engine and got replaced with a new one and now has come back around to haunt me :/ haha
  7. It's definitely not the ball from between the pushrod and the thrust bearing, as I pulled that out with a magnet after removing the loose one...it's either been rattling around for a while or it got dislodged from a bearing...I'm gunna try get a socket to remove clutch hub and see how I go... I have had a quick look over the parts guides etc but I'm still unsure which bearing is behind the clutch (haven't pieced all the info together yet...)
  8. Hi all, chasing some advice...took the missus' Wr250f for a spin today and put it down gently in a creek bed onto rocks. Once I picked it back up there was an ugly grinding sound coming from clutch side..I babied it back to the car and took it home. I've pulled it apart a bit, first thinking water pump issue, but that seemed fine. I pulled off the clutch cover and noticed a shiny ball bearing stuck between the clutch basket and the bottom of the case. I got it out an put it back together but it still makes the metal whirring/ grinding noise. My guess is a fluffed bearing, but any directions on which one? I dont have the tools to pull the clutch basket off just yet so I can't investigate further. Thanks for assistance!
  9. Yeah, big bore will come when I need a new top end, but that's a while away ... lol And not hijacked, I like cars! Sweet purchase!
  10. definitely not chasing peak hp, would prefer a nice sounding pipe with great mid range (I.e. think big hill climbs)...And definitely not going for a big bore to expensive for the gains... lol.
  11. hmmm, yeah I think so too...I have been considering putting it back on, but it sounds so harsh! lol Any recommendations on a new pipe then? Should I get a full system inc header? volume is not really a concern, I wear ear plugs as it is, but the quieter the better with best performance gains I guess! (I apologise if this has been covered already on here, please point me in the right direction if it has...)
  12. something like this: http://www.google.co...60&tx=139&ty=99 and this: http://www.google.com.au/imgres?biw=1920&bih=1019&tbm=isch&tbnid=Q5KkFekwMWY-0M:&imgrefurl=http://www.2y4t.com/8/viewtopic.php%3Ff%3D17%26t%3D116121&docid=g7i3rPBTTnWLMM&imgurl=http://www.deobes.eu/mecanica/silencioso/7.jpg&w=900&h=675&ei=wHusUbeUFo6bkwWckIDQAw&zoom=1&ved=1t:3588,r:47,s:0,i:227&iact=rc&dur=508&page=2&tbnh=170&tbnw=233&start=41&ndsp=49&tx=115&ty=80 i think actually my pipe may be an old turbinecore rather than a powercore....Do you think that is the problem?
  13. Thanks for the quick info, i'll try the jetting later in the week. Although its a little confusing to decrease the jet size from stock, even after opening the airbox and exhaust... As for the vortex thing, its not how you described...my muffler has no spark arrestor i dont think, and it looks nothing like that can!! I unfortunately to get photos would require me to pull it apart :/ I'll try explain it The back half (header end) of the pipe is straight through, however the outlet half of the pipe was almost closed off, apart from a pipe (same diameter of back half) but it has a stationary turbine type gadget inside....it doesnt rotate, but my guess is it would be in there to create a vortex/swirl the air...maybe its to increase flow, maybe its to create a more linear flow out of the exhaust, i dont know! i will try and get photos of it, cuz i am curious to know what it is and what it does...my pipe is definitely an FMF, and its not a Q, but perhaps its an older design pipe?
  14. Gday guys, so i have a 2008 DRZ400E (australian model!) with some issues Before i start, i have searched through this forum countless times trying to find solutions, but finally decided to make an account and ask for tailored advice. I picked up this bike about 7 months ago, with only 600kms on the clock, and since then have put on almost 4500kms (70% road) Current issues: - Off idle bog (will be fixed when i do the AP mod i beleive) - Mid rpm bog: Under 1/2 to full throttle during mid rpm (usually 40km/hr in 3rd gear at stock gearing 15/47) the bike takes ages to accelerate. it accelerates better rolling the throttle on, but only slightly. Even climbing hills in 2nd, if the rpm gets to the 'bog' range, it doesnt accelerate well. also, the accompanying "bog" sound will happen up hills etc (same as the off idle bog sound etc) (note that the higher rpm range is perfectly fine, and develops quite a lot of power) Current mod list: - second hand FMF powercore 4 slipon (which has been repacked...although it did have a weird little vortex type thingy inside it taking up half the muffler length, but not any diameter) - Airbox snorkel removed (3x3.5 inches i think) - CE has been removed (connected 2 of the pipes and blocked the 3rd) - Jetted with JD kit - 165 main jet, needle at 3rd clip i think (will have to check again), and stock pilot jet. Riding conditions are between 0 and 4000 feet. More information: the bike was fine until i put the powercore on (keep in mind it is second hand). the powercore definitly gave me more power in the higher rpm, but developed the bog lower. I noticed also that the engine was running hotter than normal, and it chattered down hills hence my thinking that it was running lean and getting the JD jet kit. The stock jet for our aussie DRZ's are the 165 anyway, but i swapped it for the JD jet and needle, but it didnt really improved the bog at all, although the engine is running cooler, and not chattering quite as much. I have just (as of half an hour ago ) checked the timing (perfect still!) and valve clearances (exhaust was .24 and intake was .13). I am also still running the stock spark plug. At one point, the output shaft seal dropped all my oil, and i noticed the dreaded oil tick when i was pulling back into the driveway, so im not sure how long it was very low on oil for... Apart from that, i think that's all the history that is pertinent! Can someone suggest what may be the issue? Possible fixes etc...
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