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Jdwg1972

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About Jdwg1972

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    TT Newbie

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    Male
  • Location
    California
  1. Thanks for the help runnerng. Unfortunately I've had to figure out another way to do the stem mod. I'm not buying another OEM lower clamp with stem for $150, then paying $60 to have REGER machine it. I contacted the guy that sold me the 150R forks and he assured me that nothing was done to the stem he sold me.... he was legit, familiar with the steering stem mod and offered a great solution or a full refund. States that he was a factory race mechanic for several teams. He gave me another solution for the conversion, as he wanted to make the Ebay deal right. So, I'm buying a set of EMIG triple clamps and this same guy is pressing a new stem spec'd for the 230 into them. Another $150, but it beats having to buy an OEM lower for $150, then shipping and REGER mod fee. Saves me a few bucks. Anyway, still needed to know what other parts to get from REGER. Thanks for getting back so quickly. Helps a ton. Bike looks great BTW!!!!! How did you determine where the clamps would sit on the fork tubes?
  2. Sorry Rick, having a heck of a time with Reger. They are out of stock on most parts?????? Apparently, the fork set I purchased on Ebay had a stem that had already been machined for a different bike. So, I'm forced to purchase another lower clamp and stock stem so that Jim can do the mod from stock stem dimensions. Spoke with Tina again today and she and Jim, the machinist, cannot agree on what parts to send me. However, contrary to what you stated above, they're both telling me that I need to purchase the following for the conversion to work: 1. spacer kit 2. brake adapter 3. steering stop and 4. extended brake line. I'm not sure who to listen to. So that I understand you correctly, JUST use the 150R axle and 230 wheel, period!? NO wheel spacers whatsoever are required? I have, exactly, what you pictured above in the axle comparison. I've seen the spacer/sleeve kit which you speak of...this is what they are telling me I need. Not sure what you mean by the statement below....are you suggesting that I need some type of different spacer? "The ends of the wheel "Center Support" are machined to fit the 230F wheel bearings. A simple machined sleeve might be too thin-walled to withstand the recommended front axle nut torque. The Reger design has a thicker side wall except for the part within the wheel bearing, said bearing taking the torque load in this area." Thanks for your help.
  3. https://www.dropbox.com/s/ujwyolsltgrwqka/2014-09-25%2017.18.36.jpg?dl=0
  4. Apologize, coming in on this a tad late....Also running into some confusion with Tina at Reger. My wife will not let go of her 230 for a 250X, she's just doesn't like the feel. So, followed Rick's site and purchased a "brand new" set of complete 150R forks on Ebay for $500 Only paid $600 for her bike. But the forks really were new. Anyway, forks came with upper/lower triples, stem, axle, wheel spacers, fork guards, unused stock bearings/races and dust covers. Shipped Tina the lower triple with a new Pivot Works lower bearing and dust cover, just in case. Spoke with her on the phone today and there was confusion on exactly what I needed. Sent a letter in the box with the lower triple stating that I needed the following: (I was year and model specific, 2003 CRF 230F fork conversion to 2009 CR 150R) machine mod lower triple, repress with included bearing. brake adapter--told her I didn't need spacers because the 150R axle is the same size as the 230's, and new forks came with spacers and axle seal cover. steering stop extended brake line Helicoil will be DIY Tina told me that she understood the lower triple mod, no issue. However, she told me that I don't need the extended brake line, but would need the spacer kit that sells separately from the brake adapter. So my question is...can someone please break down the parts list from REGER so I know exactly what to purchase. Thanks in advance for your help. https://www.dropbox.com/sc/1rcg4k5bc7ud34c/AABWXmKMjQVwO5AmFlAYAECya
  5. Jdwg1972

    Using 80/90 wt oil in 250X transmission...?

    Strange....I just changed both oils and the manual said 10-40 or 10-30 was fine. Did I screw up? Something I missed in the manual?
  6. Thanks for the input gents. I think I'll have to wait and see....I'll try riding a 450X, maybe at a demo day, and look into some of the mods you guys suggested. This forum is awesome. Thanks for the feed back. Cheers.
  7. My 2012. Waiting for sprockets, rotors and chain to wear so I can put on the Black wheels.
  8. I've got 10 hours on my 250X and love the bike. It's outstanding overall, but I'm looking for a bit more power throughout the entire RPM range. I've been digging on the forums all day and can't find much for my 2012. I've seen the numerous Hot Cam vs. R cam posts, but haven't seen anything specific for my situation. I'm not looking to race my X as I already have a '12 KTM 250SX which I ride specifically on the track....but it's a RED sticker. For those days that I decide to ride during the off-season, I want to have some more kick from the X to ride it ALL. I'm not enjoying technical trail riding like I thought I would. I usually find myself heading back to open trails where I can run it open and jump or head back to the track. I love the snap from my 2 stroke but the control of the CRF. So I'm not sure which way to go with the CRF. I'm 41 years old, 5'9" and about 155 lbs with gear and don't want the weight of a 450. Thought I had the best of both worlds, but the X needs just a bit more all around. Live in Cali and have already done most of the TT recommended mods. JD jet kit, drilled exhaust diffuser, smog removed, airbox mod, screen removal. Got rid of the bog, but I'm already used to the new found power with the mods. Saw on another post that the '08 R cam, unlimited motorsport carb mod and Yoshi Slip on might be the right direction. I don't want to dump a ton more $$$ into the X as it is near perfection in my opinion. So pistons, heads and valves are not in the plan until rebuild. Are the newer 11-12 R cams even an option? What is the latest cam I should consider if I go with the R. Or should I just stick with the Hot cam. Also saw 49 state X cam was the answer for another member. Suggestions for cam, need for lifter replacement and further carb mods, if needed, would be much appreciated. Respectfully, J.
  9. Jdwg1972

    help on speeding up my crf250x

    I have a 2012 California X with 10 hours on it ...how much did the hot cam, unlimited motorsport carb mod and FMF pipe cost you total? Called unlimited motorsport and they quoted $600-700 for cam and jet mods installed. Good price? I'm a novice bike mechanic and want to avoid trouble. Leave it to the pros. Just not sure about '08 R cam or Hot Cam for a 2012... not alot of mod stuff on the forums for newer X's. Already done JD jet kit, airbox mods, screen removal, drilled diffuser, and smog removal. I'm finding myself needing the power of my '12 KTM 250SX in CRF form. I know you can't compare, but I'm looking for a bit more ridable power for both track and trail. The KTM is strictly track and a RED sticker. I don't need another track bike, but want some more pull throughout the entire RPM range. Saw a post somewhere about a 49 state X cam????? I'm 155 lbs. with gear.
  10. @Bonefrost....sorry to hear you're layed up. Hope you heal up quickly. I'm 40. Just took the bike out for the break-in ride yesterday. Had a blast. Alot different from my KTM 250 SX. Anyway, I'll try to post some pics of the bike today. Sounds like you got a great deal on your '04 X. Bet you're itching to ride. Get well buddy so you can get to ridin' Cheers, J
  11. No doubt Jim. I feel bad that I wasted his time questioning the size of the pilot. I just wasn't sure. Just seemed odd to me that the bottom end problem would be resolved without changing the pilot....but that's why he's the expert. Considering the amount of working space and time removing/renstalling , I just wanted to be sure. He sure showed me! It's surprising that he still has the patience to answer dumb emails from customers like me. Live and learn.
  12. Jdwg1972

    Jetting Settings

    Thanks for your input folks. I worked on the bike for 6 hours today after all the parts came in. I emailed JD and he answered twice within 24 hours. Being a novice mechanic and DIY'er I had more general questions for him and the install took me longer than I expected. I was curious why he recommended the 42 pilot jet on my bike when that is what it comes with stock. He told me that 45 and 48 pilots are used on "very unusual cases". Needless to say, I followed the directions to a tee and the horrible BOG is gone. Man, I was surprised after I took the bike for a test run. IT RIPS now compared to 2 days ago. The front wheel pulled of the ground in second gear and pulled all the way to 5th. I'm sorry for doubting a man that spends his days tunning carbs... Anyway here are the final numbers and mods for my 2012 CRF250X California : Location: Central California Temp: 65-100F Elevation: 48-4200' Riding: trail and track Mods: Complete airbox mod Air filter screen removed Stock exhaust. Drilled 1/2" hole in end of exhaust diffuser, because the newer bikes' spark arrestor and baffle are welded to the end cap. Applied Racing Emissions block kit, left equipment mounted just in case Moose Aluminum Rear sprocket 53T stock size Renthal counter shaft sprocket (front) 14T stock size DID 520ERT2 Gold chain Excel Black wheels and red hubs in stock sizes Bridgestone 404/403 tires in stock sizes Hardline tach/hour meter JD Jet Kit(follow the directions, trust this man, he knows what he's talking about). Red Needle, clip in the 5th position from top, 42 pilot(which is stock size for 2012) 160 main(as per JD's direction with mesh air filter screen and airbox removed). Leak jet is 55 stock, so it was not changed. There is a special note that's easily missed in the directions regarding Keihin FCR carbs with "nail head" needle design and longer needle length(found on newer carbs). I missed these notes and panicked. The directions are complete. What a huge difference. I look forward to riding this bike now and appreciate all the help. Cheers. Jay.
  13. Thanks for your input folks. I worked on the bike for 6 hours today after all the parts came in. I emailed JD and he answered twice within 24 hours. Being a novice mechanic and DIY'er I had more general questions for him and the install took me longer than I expected. I was curious why he recommended the 42 pilot jet on my bike when that is what it comes with stock. He told me that 45 and 48 pilots are used on "very unusual cases". Needless to say, I followed the directions to a tee and the horrible BOG is gone. Man, I was surprised after I took the bike for a test run. IT RIPS now compared to 2 days ago. The front wheel pulled of the ground in second gear and pulled all the way to 5th. I'm sorry for doubting a man that spends his days tunning carbs... Anyway here are the final numbers and mods for my 2012 CRF250X California : Location: Central California Temp: 65-100F Elevation: 48-4200' Riding: trail and track Mods: Complete airbox mod Air filter screen removed Stock exhaust. Drilled 1/2" hole in end of exhaust diffuser, because the newer bikes' spark arrestor and baffle are welded to the end cap. Applied Racing Emissions block kit, left equipment mounted just in case Moose Aluminum Rear sprocket 53T stock size Renthal counter shaft sprocket (front) 14T stock size DID 520ERT2 Gold chain Excel Black wheels and red hubs in stock sizes Bridgestone 404/403 tires in stock sizes Hardline tach/hour meter R&D Flex remote fuel screw JD Jet Kit(follow the directions, trust this man, he knows what he's talking about). Red Needle, clip in the 5th position from top, 42 pilot(which is stock size for 2012) 160 main(as per JD's direction with mesh air filter screen and airbox removed). Leak jet is 55 stock, so it was not changed. There is a special note that's easily missed in the directions regarding Keihin FCR carbs with "nail head" needle design and longer needle length(found on newer carbs). I missed these notes and panicked. The directions are complete. What a huge difference. I look forward to riding this bike now and appreciate all the help. Cheers. Jay.
  14. Thanks gents. The assistance is appreciated. rmoore...funny, when I took the carb out yesterday I was thinking to myself "wow these things are soft." Might as well change them while its out. I'll take a look at the APS mod. Would be nice to get those things in before the bike gets put back together. Was just recalling that I followed Ramsey's tips on my wife's 2003 CRF23F. After airbox mod and stock exhaust was opened up, my final jetting was 48 pilot and 120's main. I just checked the plug and after a season of riding with her carb set up, the plug is gray. Not sure if I should try that 48 pilot on my X. Anyway, thanks again, Jay.
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