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About M12ES W

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    TT Newbie

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    United Kingdom

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  1. M12ES W

    Mystery Rear brake part number needed

    Thanks William. If you draw a line from the number '8' towards the hooked part of the rear pads it would sit on there and help seat the pads in to the recess in the calliper. There was definitely a small plate there as I've had the pads out a number of times as part of my clean up post races but having been out and messed about with the brakes this afternoon I got them to fit without it. I'm wondering if it was put there by the last owner but has only been not needed (where he got it I don't know). It looked legitimate as it match the anti-rattle plate in colour and thickness.. I'll give it a run out and see if the pads drop out : ) Not wanting to mix this thread up, but I know you know your fuelling fixes.. My 2003 WR250f is leaking a very small amount of fuel from the overflow on the carb when I leave the fuel tap on overnight. I also find the revs won't drop on occasions when I'm out riding along with a massive bog problem once the bike is running for about 30 mins. Any ideas? I know that's really general so apologies in advance of the frustration of reading this!
  2. Hi Guys, I'm after some help. When changing the rear pads on my 2003 WR250f I managed to bust the smaller of the two metal holders that are in the assembly. It's the one furthest from the retaining pin. I have looked up the schematic and it only makes reference to the larger metal plate that sits on top of the pads and sticks out the back (part #6 on the diagrams that are on line - can't posts it in here). Anyway - does anyone know where I can get this mystery part from or the part number? Many thanks Myles
  3. haha remind me not to buy a bike from you if im in NZ! seems to have gone away with adjustment of the fuel screw.. have not been out on it yet to see if it comes back when the bike is hot .
  4. here is one of the army ones in my last race http://m.youtube.com/index?desktop_uri=%2F&gl=GB#/watch?v=nDLc5mMSGXM
  5. I know.. the are called team reme (www.team-reme.com) which stands for the royal mechanical electrical engineers.. the British Army run the Wr250f too for their own training with some in desert storm sand camo!
  6. Hi Guys. Ive adjusted the fuel screw as it was only one turn from closed so have turned it out to two and a half turns. bike starts fine and the bog was gone.. won't know for sure until I get the bike out next week but at least know what to do now. I can see why the after market fuel screw is so popular! Will update once I have been out.. hope it works as i am on an enduro training course run by the British Army!.
  7. Thanks as always guys. im not great with setting up carbs, how would i get it bit richer with out needing to go up a jet size, also where would i find the fuel screw and which way will be 'out'? sorry about the dumb questions!
  8. M12ES W

    01 wr 250 cutting out please help.!

    Hi Steve. Ive got the same symptoms as you. Started in dec in the middle of a race. My valves were out of spec and have now been replaced. The only difference I have is my bike doesn't die but if I switch it off and rest for 5 mins it wont start and if it does it stalls out and takes ages to fire up only to die again.. Im going to put new jets in as everyone suggests that as a first port of call. Good to see another UK user on here too. I race in Hampshire normally out of Portsmouth. hope you get the wr running
  9. Thanks for the ideas. pretty sure the jets are clear but will check, and will have a search for leaks. If I was running lean would I also have a problem with hot starting? I was riding on Saturday and bar the revs sitting high as per my post all was fine until i took a rest. Once I was ready to go the bike wouldn't fire up and when it did (after a lot of kicking over) it would idle ok then die & then require lots more kicking to start only for the same thing to happen and stall out. many thanks myles
  10. Hi All My 2003 WR250f seems to have started this more often now. When I open the throttle and let it close again the revs stay high.. it doesn't always do it and to get the revs back down I have to either wait for about 10+ seconds or blip the throttle again which sometimes helps but sometimes puts the revs higher. The carb has been stripped and cleaned. The bike starts fine and idles fine if left alone. Just had new exhaust valves put in but it was doing it before then. I've seen a vid on youtube of the same thing on a wr but i cant see anywhere in the comments as to what the fix was. any ideas gratefully received! best wishes Myles
  11. M12ES W

    sticky throttle - does not snap closed

    hi all. just to update, I've got to the bottom of it. I loosened off the lower cable on the carb and bingo!. it was quite far out so wound it back in quite a bit. The mistake I made was setting the new cable the same amount showing as the old one.. should have started from zero and worked up! Thanks for all the advise. Myles
  12. Looks really nice. If you left that in a car port in England for 4 hours it would be stolen never mind 4 years!
  13. M12ES W

    sticky throttle - does not snap closed

    thanks all.. got a few things to check through there. the tube turns nicely on the bar but it's when I tighten up the clamp it all goes wrong.Will look for any obstruction in there. also checked the throttle wheel and its nice and springy.. might bite the bullet and get a new throttle assembly if nothing above works. thanks again guys.. great site myles
  14. Hi all I've never been too happy with how the throttle closed on my wr250f so I have bought a new set of cables. Having changed them I've found it to be the same if not worse. it seems the throttle tube is very tight in the metal holder that channels the candles out ( sorry don't know what that is called). I know you don't grease the tube it's self but does anyone grease that area that hold the cables and tube in place? many thanks Myles
  15. Here is my 2003 WR250F at work in Wiltshire England at an enduro race.