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About 2ndtry

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  1. Dave after reading back through the past posts and the parts you replaced i,m wondering about your kill switch. When the kill switch is in the run position the engine will crank over when its in the off position it will not crank over. But if the engine is running and the kill switch is turned off it will eliminate spark and kill the engine.
  2. Dave and I have both installed new stators and read 0 ohms yellow to ground.
  3. Also another check I did was to run a jumper wire directly from battery positive and snap the ignition coil with the orange wire off with the other end of the jumper and watch for spark. Don't hold the wire on the coil just brush it against it. Doing this test gave me a spark at the plug although it didnt spark every time. In five to ten snap I may have noticed 3 sparks at the plug.
  4. Dave, do you have any voltage coming out of the orange wire if you disconnect it from the ignition coil? The relay is referred to as a [starting circuit cut-off relay] I would think this would not disrupt ignition. The only test I have for the kill switch is continuity between R/W and R/W when switch is on and no continuity when its off. Let me know and if I need to I will pull my relay and see if the bike runs. I think you have already ruled out safety switches but for your information if you disconnect the single blue wire and ground it you bypass safety switches, easy to do for temp check.
  5. Stator fixed it While waiting for the new stator to arrive I put everything back together so I could post not running test readings. Not Running results Charge coil step 1 brown/red to green/white 789 ohms step 2 yellow to ground 376 ohms Pulser coil white/blue to white red 877 ohms Not running voltage tests charge coil step 1 92 volts a/c while cranking charge coil step 2 11 volts a/c while cranking Pulser coil 0 volts a/c while cranking white wires back probing at rectifier/regulator 20 volts a/c each wire while cranking Orange wire removed from ignition coil 1.08 volts dc After fixed test results Charge coil step 1 726 ohms 106 volts a/c while cranking step 2 0 ohms 0 volts a/c while cranking Pulser coil 810 ohms Orange wire removed from ignition coil 4.6 volts dc
  6. Also I don't agree that the brown green and yellow are part of the charging coil. From what I can tell the 3 white wires are the "charging" coil and the B G Y are the magneto coil. I have good a/c voltage out of each of the white wires but think my problem lies in the magneto coil. Please don't take my diagnosis as gospel, I'm not a bike tech and to anyone out there with more knowledge don't hesitate to chime in as it seems Dave and I could both use some help.
  7. Dave, from looking at the wiring diagram I believe the clutch and neutral safety switch only interupts cranking not ignition. If your bike is cranking over I would say they are good. The yellow wire is fastened opposite the brown and the green wire on the magneto coil. How that coil is wound I do not know. Sorry I can't help more but I haven't had the chance to get back to work on the bike yet. When I do, information will follow.
  8. Dave, I will post back after the problem is fixed. I still have not purchased a stator. After it's running again I will post before and after ohms readings of each component. I will also post a/c voltage outputs as I believe these would be a better way of checking parts. I have it torn down already and I didn't write down a/c volts so I won't be able to post the readings previous to fixing it. I
  9. Thanks for the reply topaz250! i've read your post with similar problems and I believe you are probably right. I just wanted to confirm my tests were correct because the pulser coil test apparently listed the wrong values for the ohms. It seems to me a better test would be the output a/c voltage from the magneto wires as opposed to ohm readings. I was also concerned that my multimeter didn.t have the ohms x 100 and ohms x 10 settings that the manual said to use, and if I was supposed to test yellow to ground or yellow to green/white. I have found a new stator for right around $200 was your repaired one cheaper than that? If I receive no more replies I guess i'll just replace the stator and keep moving towards solving the problem. I will keep you in mind if I need a cdi. Thanks again!
  10. my son was riding and it just shut off and hasnt fired since. no spark at all . checked fuse, wiring and switches, Not totally positive about the switch at the clutch lever but I believe this only interupts cranking not ignition. installed a new plug i followed the manual for these tests manual says the following shows only differences from the xt225 charge coil resistance step 1 brown/red-green/white 600-900 ohms mine 737 ohms step 2 green/blue-green/white ground 482-708 ohms mine 604 ohms Says to do test step 1 with meter on ohms x100 and step 2 ohms x 100 My meter only has setting for 2000 and 2000K I used the 2000 setting Ive read on here to do step 2 yellow to ground instead of the green/white to ground i read 445 ohms pulser coil test white/blue-white/red 280-420 Mine 827 purchased new pulser checked it before install at 823 ohms installed it and it made no difference. Again I have read on here that my 827 was in specification according to information different than my book. I measure absolutly no A/C current on the orange wire to the coil when cranking. I'm leaning towards the magneto coil part of the stator because of the high yellow to ground reading. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated and thank you in advance!