Maverick26

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About Maverick26

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  • Location
    Washington
  1. I run a set of Desert ITs up here in washington state, its mostly a muddy mess with slick tree roots, some rocks, but mostly soft slick mud. Lots or trail hazards like sharp rocks and tree roots so I like the stiffer carcus of a desert tire. So far (1 month) I love the Desert IT. It even clawed thru some snow the other day. I run them at about 9 psi right now and they rock. Deep lugs on these things too.
  2. Have the wheels and hubs powder coated, it will save you money and they look good. I did mine in black and red but you could do them any color you want.
  3. Yamaha

    Ok, I dont have a service manual for this bike so I am guessing on everything. Can anyone point me in the right direction on measuring peak voltage? The stator itself does not look burned or damaged in anyway so I guess testing it is the only way. I have the side cover off right now but can easily install it if I need to. The bike cranks but no spark.
  4. Yamaha

    Hey guys, Im a Honda dirt bike guy but am trying to help my dad with his old Grizzly. He has a 2000 600 Griz that wont start. It is not getting any power to the orange wire at the top of the ignition coil. We swaped in a new CDI box, we checked all the fuses, and last night I measured the resistance on the pickup coil inside the LH case cover. I was having a hard time measuring at the plug so I pulled the cover and measured the ohms on the pickup itself and I was getting like 23 ohms. I believe this part is bad but how does this have to do with spark? Shouldn't it be getting spark power from the batt and all the stator does is charge the batt? Some cars and bikes will run without an alternator tell the batt dies. Let me know if I am on the right track or I need to test something else. It ran fine one day about 2 weeks ago and then the next day it was dead.
  5. Thanks for the info, I was able to pick up an both R header and muffler from an 08 and another muffler from an 07 yesterday from friends that have removed them. Im going to try the R header for now cause anything is better then what I have. Yes I know its thin Ti so I will just try and do less swan diving for now..
  6. Sorry JAT, I didnt want to sound like I was the best welder in the land at all... and trust me, I have done a few cast alum jobs and they all are touch and go. And I am by no way saying that this one would be easy either but it would be something I would try in order to try and dodge a $1300 bullet for a little while. Jody is the man as far as teachers and welders go.. that guy rocks. And yes, if you ever get the ich the inverter machines are quite the upgrade from the old transformer rigs. I still have my old 180SD but I hardly ever use it anymore since I got my Dynasty 350. I had converted my 180 to water cooled with a coolmate 3 but I have converted it back to air and put my water cooler setup under my 350. Im telling you, the adjustability of the inverter machines is crazy and you can do so much more odd stuff with them like cast. And if you have not tried the lanthanated tungsten yet you should. I use it for AC and DC jobs with great results. I hate pure tungsten!
  7. Last night I did a freakin swan dive off a big drop on some single track and my factory X exhaust didnt fair too well. My header is kinked at the head and bent down and the muffler got some rash and a dent. So I am picking up an 07 R muffler tomorrow fo free and am trying to decide on what header to go with. Is there any differance between the OEM X and R header as far as fit or bends or how tight they fit to the motor? The X header seems to hang out a little bit. If not what about any of the aftermarket headers? Do any of them fit a little closer to the motor?
  8. Im a JB weld fan, I am also a professional real welder but that didnt stop me from using some JB about a month ago. I made a real dumbass out of myself when replacing the starter clutch and reduction gear on my bike. I went to go replace the RH side case cover, not just the clutch cover, and as I was fitting it up I forgot/didnt realize that the waterpump shaft is keyed. When this key is not alligned and you give it a swift pop with your fist it cracks the outer case cover right under the watepump just above the weep hole. Good lord I about barfed. I removed it, cleaned it with brake clean and a air hose, scuffed with scotch brite and SS wire brush, heated case with heat gun, mixed JB and applied. The heat seemed to soften the JB and make it easy to work into the crack, then it kicked off and got really hard. The case have was backordered so I rode the bike like this for almost a month. Not a drop of leaking and no water in the tranny. I carry a stick in my pack for sure, mostly to slow down or stock a cracked something from preventing me from getting to my truck. I think as you ride more you figure out what you need to carry for your riding style and area. I personally have not had any breakdowns on the trail yet, but I also prep the bike good. Last Wednesday I did loose a header nut and the other got loose. This caused the bike to run like shit but It made it back to the truck since we were done riding anyway. I replaced those nuts with a metal locking nut.
  9. To bad you are not closer, I live in Washington state and could weld that up for you. I dont doubt that there are some good TIG welders in Tx. My process would be to get the bike from you with all the solf stuff removed from that side. I would then clean the area really well with a brake clean of some kind and then polish part and case with SS wire wheel. Set amp setting for thickness and grind 2% lanthanated tungsten SHARP and tack, tack, tack, tack it in there. Carful not to build up too much heat/pressure as I am not sure what is on the back side of that boss. I would also advise you that this is a effort to save you some money and time on replacing the case half. It would not come with a 100% success rate tell the weld cools as cast aluminum can be a bitch some times and the weld will most likely look like crap due to that cast being soaked in oil its life. I hope this never happens to my 450 but if it does I would weld it myself and then have plans to replace the case half on the next piston.
  10. Im guessing my bike has over 400 hours, around 7000 miles (just from mantainance history) so it may be time. Ill pick one up tomorrow and try it.
  11. Ok I tried again last night, took the bike out and drove it around for 10-15 min to get it all nice and warm, adjusted fuel screw, new R&D flex, to 1 turn out. Then started tuning down idle from around 1700 down to about 1300 or so.. It died once so I know it was about as low as I could get it. Then I started to scew in the fuel scew and bottomed it out... nothing, still idling at around 1350 so I tried to screw it out and got all the way to 2 turns out... with no change in idle speed at all. I put it back to 1.25 turns out for now. It seems to run good there with no decel pop and no stumble. Im just wondering if this is good enough or is there something better? Should I try and replace the needle holder to see if it is worn like what Doc says? Its only like an $8 part so it might be worth a shot.
  12. Ok cheap and easy enough, this is what the main jet screws into and the needle itself slides up and down. I could see it wearing out with fuel eroding it and the needle sliding up and down it. Ill get and new one and see if it works.
  13. So my red JD needle is worn? or the tube it rides in? good lord when does this end? Ok, so since JD does not sell replacements what are my options?
  14. Ok so I am trying to dial the fuel scew in and it seems now that my pilot jet is too rich.. I only went from a #45 to a #48, I kept the clip on the middle slot of the red needle and installed a #80 power jet. When I go to adjust the fuel screw looking for the fastest idle I find no setting that raises the rpm. I can bottom out the fuel scew all the way and the bike still idles fine but If I crack the throttle it backfires in the intake it sounds like, then dies. I have it set at 1 full turn out and it does not backfire right now and seems to start really easy cold. Just choke and start button, no throttle imput. I have not got a chance to ride it yet and see how it really performs cause its raining buckets here but I will soon and report back.
  15. Dang Krannie you carry a big kit, cool thread too, I always like to see what folks are bringing... I dont like to carry weight on my back in a backpack if I can help it so I picked of some Wolfman day tripper saddle bags and those have been working well for me. I got a Harbor Freight roll up tool bag thing and have enough tools in there to remove, tighten or reinstall just about anything. I got some shorty tire irons, 21" tube, a small tube of Sil-Glyde, home made tow strap, tube of JB weld, some zip ties and e tape, first aid kit, some extra bolts, a few feet of lockwire and a few feet of 16g electical wire. For some of my longer trips I have been carrying a small 8oz bottle of 10w-40 oil just in case. After rebuilding my top end I have had zero oil use but its more for if I crash and crack a side cover and have to JB weld and limp home. I figure If I cant limp home with what I got in this kit I probably deserve the long walk ahead of me.