psychocandy

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About psychocandy

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  1. How is that 7000 lumen one? Is it too bright for street use? Seems a big step up from the 3800 one, which I've read is a great upgrade. I want to upgrade, but don't want to blind people.
  2. There are plenty of other brands besides TrailTech. Some better, some worse, some with more features, some with less. But overall, bang for buck (& also customer support wise), TrailTech is pretty awesome.
  3. Cyclops now has a 7000 lumen LED bulb. Has anyone tried this for a street oriented bike? It's hard to tell from the website whether it's strictly for off road use or not. Got a little bonus for Christmas & was about to pull the trigger on the 3800 lumen light, then I saw the upgrade to 7000 lumen available. Is the upgrade just way too powerful for on road use? https://www.cyclopsadventuresports.com/7000-Lumen-H4-LED-Headlight-Bulb_p_169.html
  4. Yeah, sorry, I guess I came across kinda hot there. In all honesty though, I'd suggest the fender eliminator from the ThumperTalk store: https://thumpertalk.com/shop/DRC-Edge-2-LED-Tail-Light-Holder-Bracket-Only-US-Spec-by-ThumperTalk-p2006835404.html You can add a tail/brake-light and turn signals in the options. It's probably what 99% of the people on here use for a street legal set up. That UFO fender technically has turn signals, but they're too close to the tail-light to be effective. Additionally, if you ask me, that setup doesn't really look that great. Get that fender eliminator above & the turn signals, it just looks like a normal bike. You don't even notice them. The current setup on that bike draws more attention to it all by looking like you're trying to cover something up.
  5. Your kid is 16. I don't understand people that think turn signals look bad on a bike. Unless you've got some crazy weird sleek custom thingy, turn signals are just part of a bike. The LED ones that are sold in the ThumperTalk store with the fender eliminator are pretty lo-pro & they work great. If you ask me, they also look better than that janky ass solution that the bike currently has. Put some normal turn signals on his bike & tell him he can do what he wants when he learns to do it himself & after he turns 18 or you stop paying his rent. #TuffLove
  6. KTM rear wheel size is pretty consistent across the board. Most, at least pre-2011 or so? should fit the DRZ.
  7. Just curious, reading this thread. The other day, my hi beam burned out. I didn't notice during the day because the hi beam indicator was on. It wasn't until night time that I noticed the indicator was on, but the headlight wasn't. Lo beam worked fine. Did Suzuki screw the pooch on the indicator wiring? I feel like on most of my other bikes, if the hi beam in the bulb burns out, the hi beam indicator won't go on either.
  8. Hmmm, I must've missed this tank in some of the other threads. I think it looks better than the big Clarke. I noticed it doesn't come up on a lot of searches, but I found it on Amazon. It says it fits the S, but when I plug in the SM to the Amazon fitment wizard, it says no go. Is that really the case? If it fits S, shouldn't it fit SM? https://www.amazon.com/ACERBIS-Tank-Gas-Drz400S-3-9/dp/B01N9GAVLD
  9. Time Left: 14 days and 22 hours

    • FOR SALE
    • USED

    I have an SM with the metal tank, decals under the clear coat. I'd like to do something different aesthically & don't want to molest my stock tank or spend mucho bucks getting it professionally painted. I like how the transluscent Clarke tanks look with black plastics. Just looking for stock size or maybe the 3.2, whatever. Not really looking to spend too much as I can experiment with vinyl wrapping for ~$50. But if you're thinking about getting rid of one, shoot me a price & I'll consider it.

    $0.01

  10. I did my 3x3 and it fixed the lean condition I had. But then after I took it out on the freeway, noticed the surging effect at around 1/3 to 3/4 throttle. It's been kinda windy lately, so I wasn't sure at first if it was surging or just wind. Turns out it was the dreaded surging issue. After reading either this thread or a different thread, I changed the vacuum line from tank to the carb. After I took it out on the freeway, that seemed to get rid of the surging. AWESOME! But then on my way home, my bike sputtered & started to die like it was out of gas. I switched the petcock to reserve, the bike recovered, but then did the same. I pulled over & put the petcock on prime. My bike started up again & was able to get home like this. I'm pretty sure that what happened was that the vacuum line I ran got soft once the bike got hot. Then the line deformed a bit and then kinked in a way that it couldn't maintain vacuum. Today I swapped the line out for some stronger fuel line. I took it out on the freeway and really rode it hard, lotsa WOT (well, at least when there wasn't too much traffic). I think that seemed to fix the issue. BUT, I did notice that the bend that the line has to take to go from the tank to the nipple on the carb just really isn't ideal. How have others gotten around this? What do you recommend to use for vacuum line? The first line I used was thinner & bent easier. But it got hot & collapsed in on itself when it did. The fuel line I'm using now might be OK. But it doesn't bend as readily & there's a little bit of a kink. Hopefully not enough to block airflow.
  11. I did the PlastiDip. The knee area is actually holding up well without tank pads. I might just leave it. But the gas cap area is a whole different story. Even a little bit of gas can really mess up the dip. I haven't had time to apply the apron I was gonna experiment with. Maybe this weekend. Should be a lot easier to apply a small square around the filler than to wrapping the whole damn tank. They make it look so easy on YouTube vids.
  12. I'm a decent shade tree mechanic, am willing to and can do must stuff short of pulling the cylinder and/or splitting the cases. Doing a 3x3 & rejet is pretty damn easy. Once you get the carb out, the instructions in the JDJ kit are simple & straightforward. I did it outside in my driveway without a workbench. That's how easy it is. If it's your first time digging into a carb PLEASE use a nice flat, brightly lit workbench or work area. You don't want to drop a screw or forget where it goes. My DRZ had a slipon & no other mods. It was quite lean (which everyone on this board told me but I had a hard time believing coming from sportbikes, most of which handle slipons without any need for retuning). After the 3x3 & rejet, it ran & idled better, seems to run cooler too. It was definitely worth the price of the kit & the couple hours of my life.
  13. Oh yeah, totally agree, I see a lotta red flags in that ad.
  14. People freak out over mileage on a bike that would barely be considered broken in on a car. Yeah, I coulda spent $3k or so on something with less than 10k miles probably. But I got this one & put a lot of farkles on it right away instead of spending months slowly modding it.
  15. Ah, a fellow SF Bay Area dweller? Just an FYI, I bought my '06 DRZ in SF in great shape for $2k. 16k miles, but still. Compared to the $4k that a lot of people are asking for DRZs that should be way cheaper, you can find deals if you're patient. Also, prices in Sacramento & Reno/Tahoe tends to be (slightly) more reasonable, especially for dirtbikes.