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psychocandy

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About psychocandy

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  1. I already use a disc lock on the rear wheel. I'll check for the little triangle by the shifter. I live in SF Bay Area of CA. Lotta homeless folks. So a stolen cover is not super surprising. Although it's summer, so not rainy season. Shrug. Just one more "tax" I guess.
  2. Not a recommendation for the chain itself. But where to run the chain through. Woke up this morning & someone stole my cover. Hopefully it was just a homeless person that needed a tarp to make a camp or something. I know running the chain through one of the wheels isn't really that much of a deterrent (better than nothing I suppose). I don't really see anywhere on the frame I could loop it through. Maybe around one of the fork tubes between the upper & lower triple clamp? Can anyone who uses a chain show some pics of how you do the thing?
  3. Has anyone tried this? OEM DRZ vacuum petcocks are priced ridiculously. Used ones are hard to find too. After market ones all look like garbage. I like a good deal just as much as anyone, but if you're buying a new part from China that costs $10 when the OEM is >$100, I'm not gonna take that risk. I randomly stumbled across an LT50 petcock on eBay for pretty cheap. In addition to looking like it probably uses the same rebuild kit as a DRZ petcock, it also seems to have a slightly lower profile mounting plate. Which, since I'm putting this on an aftermarket plastic tank, I've discovered could be helpful. The Acerbis supplied self-tapping screws that go into the plastic mounting holes are too short to catch the plastic when using a stock DRZ petcock.
  4. Looks like it probably wouldn't work on your tire, but I used a microplaner to shave about 1/8" off one side of my rear on my KTM to keep it from rubbing the chain. Never would have thought of doing that. But apparently it's not an uncommon thing SM racers sometimes need to do if they're running fat rubber.
  5. Bikes I've owned: 1971 Honda CB500 1996 Yamaha FZR600 2002 Suzuki SV650 2005 Suzuki SV650 2000 KTM LC4 2010 Suzuki DRZ400 So far, the DRZ has been the easiest bike by far for me to do clutchless shifting. I feel like I only use the clutch for taking off in first gear & when I've got a passenger to smooth things out. I can understand installing a quickshifter on a supersport or a track bike. Seems unnecessary on a DRZ. Unless you're looking to do it just to do it. In which case, go for it.
  6. Strangely, this morning when I headed out to work, my bike was acting like it had fuel starvation. I switched to Prime & I was fine. So, assumed it was the vacuum hose. But just now on the way back home, I had it on Run & it was fine. Still think I want to replace the hose though. Might actually order the OEM part for $16 since it looks like it's pre-formed. Shrug.
  7. Hey all, I know most folks are fans of non-vacuum petcocks. But I'm happy with my stock petcock. However, I was playing around with some stuff & now, my hose is kinked & doesn't get good vacuum. I runs fine on Prime, but I'm not interested in always keeping that in the back of my mind. Is there a stock part number that is pre-formed to go from the petcock to the carb nipple? Or is it just a matter of getting the length & routing "just right?" What ID/OD and type of hose is preferred for this short but crucial length of tube?
  8. I've heard this about slant 6 engines. That for some reason, they don't want to die.
  9. I'm a big fan of skateboard wheels myself. You can get pretty generic neutral colored ones for pretty cheap. Or go for a bright contrast color. I went with a set of Santa Cruz Screaming Hand Slimeballs 'cuz I spent a lot of time in Santa Cruz & those are classics. A set of 4 high "name brand" skate wheels will probably cost you btw $25-$35. https://www.nhsfunfactory.com/slime-balls-60mm-vomits-97a-santa-cruz-skateboard-wheels-2082232 I think a smaller harder wheel might be a better choice. These are 60mm diameter & 97a on the durometer. I might look for something more like 54mm & 101a on the durometer scale. I think most hardware stores will sell a length of 3/8" threaded for $5-$8, plus a couple bucks for some hardware (nuts & washers). You can cut to length with a hand saw. Honestly, there's a good chance the rod will bend if you go down. But you can replace it again for $5.
  10. Wow, how long has it been since that one Cycle World article re: Snell vs DOT came out? I guess long enough that it's not common knowledge any more. It was super controversial at the time because it found that while a lot of helmets that were manufactured to Snell standards seemed to "hold up" better in crash tests, they actually transferred more G force to the head. Meanwhile, helmets that passed DOT standards, but didn't pass Snell standards ended up toast in crash tests, but actually transferred fewer Gs to the skull. I think some of Cycle World's advertisers didn't want them to run it bc it implied that some of the more expensive helmet brands that tested to Snell standards weren't actually safer. And in fact, might be worse for you. IIRC, the takeaway was that neither standard could really say what was objectively "better." But a helmet that looked worse after a crash & transmitted less G force to the head seemed preferable. Among other things, they also took issue with the fact that Snell applied the same hit to the same spot on the helmet twice. Something that would very very infrequently happen in a real crash. It's been a while, but I think when that article came out, the EU standard (is that ECE?) was just starting to be developed & seemed to be something that might be more real world than either DOT or Snell. I believe that since then, there's a new Snell standard, but that the new tests still didn't address the criticisms brought up by the CW article. It's been a while since I looked into it, but I still don't put a lot of faith in Snell standards. EDIT: Looks like Snell updated their standards ~2010. And in fact, the AMA does not allow for the pre-2005 Snell standard as of 2011. See here: https://silodrome.com/snell-vs-dot-vs-ece-r22-05-helmet-standards-throwdown/
  11. Hey all, I was about to pull the trigger on the Acerbis 3.7. I read that Acerbis come with garbage petcocks if you just use the one that comes with the tank. So I figured I'd order a petcock as well. I see 3 Acerbis petcocks on the Just Gas Tanks website. 2 of them have what looks to be a plastic lever. Which looks like garbage & I plan to stay away from: http://www.justgastanks.com/acerbis-fuel-tank-petcock-2044230999/ http://www.justgastanks.com/acerbis-fuel-tank-petcock-2044230998/ Of course the one that looks like the lever is made of metal is the same price. It looks like the output of this one is behind the lever. So, not down or to the side. Anyone have experience & can tell me if this makes for good fuel hose routing on DRZ w/stock Mikuni carb? http://www.justgastanks.com/acerbis-fuel-tank-petcock-2044230997/
  12. Have you done the 3x3 mod & rejet? After I did that, my bike bogs sometimes at almost WOT (but WOT is fine). I still use the stock vacuum petcock. I might try running it on reserve next time on the freeway to see if that does anything.
  13. Been thinking about this tank. Can you use the stock petcock on this tank? I know a lot of people don't like them. But I don't have a problem with mine.
  14. That 4x6 headlight mod is pretty popular. It does have a hi/lo settings, but it just turns off some of the LEDs for lo. If you're going to be riding in traffic, I might look to one of those Cyclops LED bulbs instead. That's my next upgrade. After reading a bunch of threads, I think it's a better choice. I'm not with the 1 billion times brighter = better brigade. I'd rather have a bulb that was aimed correctly, has a good cut off, & doesn't blind oncoming drivers or drivers that you're following. The Cyclops light seems like it might not be perfect, but the 4x6 eBay headlight isn't really a driving light as far as I can tell. It's probably good for off road if you just need to flood high lumens out ahead of you. But it might be more dangerous if you're using the bike on the street & blinding other drivers.
  15. Always wondered about this. I've had other bikes w/vacuum petcocks & no issues. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. If it does break... Well, my bike is new to me but 10 years old. I'll just replace w/the same petcock since the OEM lasted that long, thanks. YMMV if you've changed your carb. I'm still running the stocker.