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      VIDEO RIDING TIP!   11/15/2017

      How to ride rutted corners with Garrahan Off-Road Training



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About psychocandy

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  1. Just curious, reading this thread. The other day, my hi beam burned out. I didn't notice during the day because the hi beam indicator was on. It wasn't until night time that I noticed the indicator was on, but the headlight wasn't. Lo beam worked fine. Did Suzuki screw the pooch on the indicator wiring? I feel like on most of my other bikes, if the hi beam in the bulb burns out, the hi beam indicator won't go on either.
  2. Hmmm, I must've missed this tank in some of the other threads. I think it looks better than the big Clarke. I noticed it doesn't come up on a lot of searches, but I found it on Amazon. It says it fits the S, but when I plug in the SM to the Amazon fitment wizard, it says no go. Is that really the case? If it fits S, shouldn't it fit SM? https://www.amazon.com/ACERBIS-Tank-Gas-Drz400S-3-9/dp/B01N9GAVLD
  3. Time Left: 14 days and 10 hours

    • FOR SALE
    • USED

    I have an SM with the metal tank, decals under the clear coat. I'd like to do something different aesthically & don't want to molest my stock tank or spend mucho bucks getting it professionally painted. I like how the transluscent Clarke tanks look with black plastics. Just looking for stock size or maybe the 3.2, whatever. Not really looking to spend too much as I can experiment with vinyl wrapping for ~$50. But if you're thinking about getting rid of one, shoot me a price & I'll consider it.


  4. I did my 3x3 and it fixed the lean condition I had. But then after I took it out on the freeway, noticed the surging effect at around 1/3 to 3/4 throttle. It's been kinda windy lately, so I wasn't sure at first if it was surging or just wind. Turns out it was the dreaded surging issue. After reading either this thread or a different thread, I changed the vacuum line from tank to the carb. After I took it out on the freeway, that seemed to get rid of the surging. AWESOME! But then on my way home, my bike sputtered & started to die like it was out of gas. I switched the petcock to reserve, the bike recovered, but then did the same. I pulled over & put the petcock on prime. My bike started up again & was able to get home like this. I'm pretty sure that what happened was that the vacuum line I ran got soft once the bike got hot. Then the line deformed a bit and then kinked in a way that it couldn't maintain vacuum. Today I swapped the line out for some stronger fuel line. I took it out on the freeway and really rode it hard, lotsa WOT (well, at least when there wasn't too much traffic). I think that seemed to fix the issue. BUT, I did notice that the bend that the line has to take to go from the tank to the nipple on the carb just really isn't ideal. How have others gotten around this? What do you recommend to use for vacuum line? The first line I used was thinner & bent easier. But it got hot & collapsed in on itself when it did. The fuel line I'm using now might be OK. But it doesn't bend as readily & there's a little bit of a kink. Hopefully not enough to block airflow.
  5. I did the PlastiDip. The knee area is actually holding up well without tank pads. I might just leave it. But the gas cap area is a whole different story. Even a little bit of gas can really mess up the dip. I haven't had time to apply the apron I was gonna experiment with. Maybe this weekend. Should be a lot easier to apply a small square around the filler than to wrapping the whole damn tank. They make it look so easy on YouTube vids.
  6. I'm a decent shade tree mechanic, am willing to and can do must stuff short of pulling the cylinder and/or splitting the cases. Doing a 3x3 & rejet is pretty damn easy. Once you get the carb out, the instructions in the JDJ kit are simple & straightforward. I did it outside in my driveway without a workbench. That's how easy it is. If it's your first time digging into a carb PLEASE use a nice flat, brightly lit workbench or work area. You don't want to drop a screw or forget where it goes. My DRZ had a slipon & no other mods. It was quite lean (which everyone on this board told me but I had a hard time believing coming from sportbikes, most of which handle slipons without any need for retuning). After the 3x3 & rejet, it ran & idled better, seems to run cooler too. It was definitely worth the price of the kit & the couple hours of my life.
  7. Oh yeah, totally agree, I see a lotta red flags in that ad.
  8. People freak out over mileage on a bike that would barely be considered broken in on a car. Yeah, I coulda spent $3k or so on something with less than 10k miles probably. But I got this one & put a lot of farkles on it right away instead of spending months slowly modding it.
  9. Ah, a fellow SF Bay Area dweller? Just an FYI, I bought my '06 DRZ in SF in great shape for $2k. 16k miles, but still. Compared to the $4k that a lot of people are asking for DRZs that should be way cheaper, you can find deals if you're patient. Also, prices in Sacramento & Reno/Tahoe tends to be (slightly) more reasonable, especially for dirtbikes.
  10. OK, JD jet kit installed, 3x3 mod done. Float bowl screws were pretty easy to remove, making me think someone's been in there before. Also, carb was pretty easy to remove from boots, maybe 'cuz it was such a warm day out today & the bike was in the sun. Bike feels good. I took it out for about 1/2 hour. It doesn't pop loudly on decel any more, the idle doesn't appear to hang. Need a longer ride, maybe get stuck in some traffic to really make sure shit's all settled. But yeah, it wasn't the cables, it was the jetting.
  11. Tell me about this glitch. My dash doesn't seem to keep time well, could be this. Is it fixable?
  12. Dude also put a wingnut on the battery. Too many li'l signs of "that ain't quite righ but it'll do" to make that bike worth it. If it was less thank $2k, maybe.
  13. It's kind of a lot of work to get some stickers off. I ran into that too. You can cheap out by going the vinyl wrap or PlastiDip route. Both are cheaper / easier than stripping & painting. Both are also leave the stock paint unmolested. But both have their disadvantages too. Vinyl wrap: More difficult to apply & you will still see the unevenness under the wrap. More resistant to gas spills. PlastiDip: Easier to apply & will probably cover up the unevenness. Gas spills will peel the finish. If it's on your tank, your knees might also rub the paint off. I tried wrap. I discovered I'm not very good at body work. Man, getting good coverage around even simple compound bends can be tough. I think I'm gonna do PlastiDip, then put some kneepads on the tank on top of that. And maybe a little apron of leftover vinyl wrap around the mouth of the gas filler.
  14. ASV is sending me the extender, I'll give it a shot. Their CS is suuuuper nice. He says the F4 full length are guaranteed to clear & that he will replace the shorties if I want. Even if the extender works, I might take him up on it. The shorties are actually quite short. They work, but also look a little bit like toys on my bars.
  15. Unless it's a Sunday, or the bike already has a spare key, I usually stop at a locksmith on the way home after I buy a new bike (new to me) and get spare keys made. Even before I got to the DMV for a new reg.