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About mudguy

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  1. mudguy

    Torque wrenches

    A box wrench and a fish scale work great for cylinder base bolts, or for anything out of range of a normal torque wrench.
  2. mudguy

    2017 300xcw

    I dont know how you were able to find those, i thought i searched thoroughly lol thats great. Thank you so much. A local store near me sells a 12” extension cable with a male and female end on both ends for $6. It’s used for some car stereo installs. They have them in 4 pin and 6 pin varieties. You might find what you are looking for at a car stereo shop.
  3. mudguy

    How wise of you, Wiseco

    That's half the story with Wiseco - backyard mechanics messing up rebuilds and then blaming the dirt cheap Wiseco parts they bought. The other half of the story I experienced several times over the past couple years was a particular piston for a KTM 300 where they decreased the crown clearance from OEM by 0.10mm, leading to three separate seizures and tow outs over a few years, all triggered under high heat conditions, even after getting the cylinder replated to Wiseco spec. Only Wiseco knows why they decided to "improve" on the OEM design by lessening the clearance. IMO they sell way too many products to put much engineering time into any of them except for a few popular bike models they support in racing.
  4. mudguy

    How wise of you, Wiseco

    Lmao... Why are you talking crank??? What is in the pick? What is broke?? Lmao. You are a picture of the some of the crap posted on this forum and others. You don't appear the know the difference between a crank and and rod. Don't worry you are not the only one confused on what is in the pic. Others blame a brand with no idea of what went wrong.. Others seem to think a rod connected to a crank makes it a crank. . Other engine builder's have no idea weisco sells crank pins for many applications in their brand and pro x. They think they only sell assembles.. I could go on..... You do realize I was poking fun at you? Not all people speak and write perfectly. I meant to say connecting rod. I would just correct myself but you are going so off the rails on grammar it's more fun to let you continue. What would you say if I told you that some of Wiseco's 10,000 products are inadequently designed and I have the micrometer measurements to prove it?
  5. mudguy

    How wise of you, Wiseco

    The confusion is on your part not mine.... Go back and read what you posted... Broken crank??? Why would I go back and read what I posted? I know exactly what I meant to write.
  6. mudguy

    How wise of you, Wiseco

    You mean rod??? No crank is in the picture.. No, I meant connecting rod. Please use the full word to keep everyone from getting confused. Novody wants to hear about your rod.
  7. mudguy

    How wise of you, Wiseco

    If the bearings on either side are seized, then that is your cause. If both bearings are in good shape, then this is probably a crank defect. I tend to agree with bob, that crank looks soft. Hardened steel generally doesn't bend, it breaks.
  8. mudguy

    WR250R Rear Wheel

    The shinko 244 is a very durable tire. But 15K miles is a lot further than I was thinking. You may go through a couple tires and a set of wheel bearings. I calculated that you will spin that bearing 11 million times in 15000 miles. That's a lot. Make sure you bring the tools to change the bearings roadside, in case they let go on the highway. Frankly, you are going to save so much gas pulling this rig instead of a full trailer that I would just invest in wheel bearings and tires as needed and factor that into how much gas you are saving.
  9. mudguy

    WR250R Rear Wheel

    I see no problem towing like that for extended milage if you remove the chain. It's not ideal but it shouldn't be dangerous. The wheel bearings won't die from towing like that. They die from contamination from dirt/water. If they happen to die when you are towing, it is just coincidence. Also, your knobbies should be fine. Knobbies on dual sports get wrecked on the street from BRAKING, which rolls them over. You will be putting minimal wear on your knobbies rolling them at high speed with minimal weight on them. Keep them inflated to 25PSI or so when towing so they hold shape. If the particular knobby you use wears to much, just put a proper dual sport tire on the rear, such as one of the cheap shinko dual sport tires that wears like iron. For most riding conditions the shinko is bearable.
  10. I've been watching the 3 or 4 different threads on multiple forums you have posted on your "issues" You need to chill a bit and just build the motor up the way you want it from the ground up. Take the motor apart, use the proper gaskets to set the Z dimension to 0. Check/set the X dimension. Check the squish clearance with solder. Check the power valve linkage and make sure it is adjusted right. If you want, you can measure the CC in the head to confirm the compression ratio. With the head upside down and spark plug installed, use a syringe and fill it with water up to the edge, and when it is full count how many CCs you put in, and compare to the displacement(250 CC) 2 strokes are kind of funny, slightly different port configurations can give vastly different compression readings. So your compression reading is a baseline and good to know, but nobody can really tell you if 230 is a good number. I just did a rebuild on my 300, and got 215PSI. Your number seems a little high but isn't crazy. Being in utah, I assume you are also measuring compression at altitude, i'm not sure how the typical gauge reacts to that. It might actually read higher than at sea level if it is comparing to the ambient air pressure. Just guessing here. SX head should be fine on pump gas especially at elevation. Once the motor is buttoned up, set the jetting back to what worked properly before, and then adjust the jet sizes as needed. Avoid magical jetting formulas from the internet, and just see how your bike responds to what is in it.
  11. mudguy

    Knicked piston skirt

    That's the correct way to do it. Millennium doesn't mic the piston anyway unless you give them an exact clearance number.
  12. mudguy

    Knicked piston skirt

    3-5 hours, got it that makes sense. I didn't catch the 6 hours, I thought we were looking at a hard coating not the break in coating. Piston looks good then.
  13. mudguy

    Knicked piston skirt

    That piston is worn out. Another 30-50 hours? Huh?
  14. mudguy

    Knicked piston skirt

    Wrong, wrong, wrong. Forged ALUMINUM. Filing destresses the area. Forged doesn't usually shatter.