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About LuxonMX

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  1. LuxonMX

    Wheel Allignment Problem!

    Exactly, the stock bar bounts are garbage as you mention. I wrote a post about it here explaining the problem and how to properly fix it: https://luxonmx.com/blog-luxon-bar-mount-fix-ktm-husqvarna-twisting.html Regarding the clamps, the stock ones are super flexy. If your tubes are slipping in the clamps, it's easy to get things misaligned. Either clean up the interface and properly torque the bolts, or if that's still not doing it, upgrade to some higher quality clamps (stiffer and with better tolerances on the clamping surface).
  2. LuxonMX

    Polished Combustion Chamber/Head. Good Idea?

    It is unlikely you have an overall laminar flow anywhere in the engine as the flow speed is so high the reynolds number is high as well. And with all the twists, turns, and cross section changes, you're going to have turbulent flow whether you've polished the ports or not. That said, it's not a bad idea to have a roughed up intake tract as you're helping to ensure a turbulent boundary layer in all areas, which will be less likely to separate and cause reverse flow via eddies, vortices, etc. It's similar to how a dimpled golf ball flies further than a perfectly round one - the dimples force a turbulent boundary layer which delays flow separation reducing overall drag. The only reasons to polish the exhaust ports is to keep carbon from building up and to help keep the heat in the exhaust gasses rather than being absorbed in the head/cylinder. Otherwise a rough exhaust port would be more advantageous than a polished one.
  3. LuxonMX

    Gold or Black Nitride Treatment

    Yeah, it's not hard chrome, though. Pretty sure it's this: http://duralar.com/replacing-hard-chrome/
  4. LuxonMX

    Front end handling

    As you noted, get rid of the 25 mm offset clamps and go to 22 mm. Get rid of the link and get everything set up stock aside from the clamp offset. Ride it and get a good baseline, then put the link back on and repeat. See which you like better.
  5. LuxonMX

    Gold or Black Nitride Treatment

    That's a pretty apples to bananas comparison though... How would the stiffer uncoated fork do against the same fork with coatings? Introducing the stiffness variable to determine if coatings work or not only muddies the waters.
  6. LuxonMX

    Gold or Black Nitride Treatment

    I'm not making a judgement about you personally, I'm saying you're wrong regarding how much a test like this would take. Using your resources at work and working for free you can get this done cheaper; so what? That's not going to happen. In the real world we have to account for engineering time, design time, fabrication time, fixture costs, equipment costs, sample part costs, etc. You just gloss over all that and ignore it as if it's free. Regardless, it's clear you won't agree with me. So as it won't cost you very much, go ahead and do the test. It's cheap, right?
  7. LuxonMX

    Gold or Black Nitride Treatment

    $1k? It's clear you don't own a business as you have no idea what things really cost! $1k won't pay for just a portion of the fixture required to set this up... When you're the one footing the bill for engineering time, design time, fabrication, setup, testing, samples, etc. the budget becomes much more real. When you work for someone else who's footing the bill, it's easy to overlook all the costs involved. This is what I do every day and have been doing for 13+ years now, I'm not just making things up here. Regardless, seems like we'll have to agree to disagree. In the end, if you don't think the coatings will be worth it, don't buy them!
  8. LuxonMX

    Gold or Black Nitride Treatment

    Yes, for sure. I'd wager that the teflon coating does a lot more for overall friction reduction than the DLC does.
  9. LuxonMX

    Gold or Black Nitride Treatment

    For less than $10k? You could pull off a rough experiment, working for free, and using the resources at work, but to do it correctly with a sturdy test fixture (must be custom designed and manufactured), proper measurement equipment, multiple samples, and accounting for your time, would be at least $10k. Probably more actually. This is literally what I do; moto is a side "project", I run a mechanical engineering firm otherwise. And I've brought the "basic physics" into design reviews too without issue; it all depends on the situation. I'm sure your example above had a substantial budget and that wouldn't fly in the design review as you could afford to test things. But for something like this, we have to mind the budget and make sound engineering decisions. And there is zero evidence that coatings wouldn't help! So, here we are. And we've coated parts and run them. They certainly feel better on track. No, it's not a double blind study (again, budget, time, etc.), but it's what was done. This combined with other rider feedback, what the physics should be, coatings immense success in other industries with similar situations, every factory team and suspension company running them, etc. and it's a pretty simple decision. That might not be enough for some, but those types rarely make customers anyway. They just like to argue on the internet! 😂
  10. LuxonMX

    Gold or Black Nitride Treatment

    TiN isn't even in the ballpark of DLC, it's pretty close to hard chrome as far as friction coefficient. But it is hard and looks cool, which is enough for most people... And the teflon coat can be really good or really bad depending on how it was applied. Any old anodize shop will strip it rough and coat it leaving a crappy surface finish and off-size. But when done well it's really good. Could be you just had a bad application, which would indeed be worse than stock.
  11. LuxonMX

    Gold or Black Nitride Treatment

    I'm 100% with you on the aftermarket comment, it's pretty bad in moto.
  12. LuxonMX

    Gold or Black Nitride Treatment

    Yes, lubricant (oil) will play an enormous part in reducing friction here. And there are treatments designed to improve that too (WPC, etc.). But the lubricant won't always be there! There is plenty of bushing to metal contact going on, otherwise the bushings would have near infinite lifespans, which they don't. And there would be no need to hard coat the upper fork tubes. But there is. Or hard chrome the lowers... Why do some insist that hard chrome and hard anodize is the magic answer? Why not go a step further and use advanced coatings and modern technology? I can't speak to the experiment mentioned above, but it's not directly analogous to our suspension situation as polished aluminum doesn't work; it wears away quickly. Even standard anodize doesn't last long. The reason the data that mog wants doesn't exist is that it's very expensive to do it correctly. Custom made fixtures and measurement equipment won't be cheap, you're looking at $10k to pull that off. Or you could just trust the basic physics, pretty much any tribological engineer's opinion on DLC, the fact that every factory team and top suspension company uses coatings, or direct riding experience.
  13. Have you ever asked a company for a custom part or a part that they don't already offer for sale? We occasionally get customers asking for things like this, and when I get back to them they're usually shocked at the cost. I wrote up a blog post over the weekend about what it takes to design and manufacture a new part, and why the process is so time consuming and expensive. I used one of our newest products as it started in this exact scenario - our one-piece integrated handguard and steering damper mount top bar clamp. Check it out and let me know what you think! https://luxonmx.com/blog-luxon-motocross-one-off-custom-parts.html
  14. LuxonMX

    Gold or Black Nitride Treatment

    Proof of what? That a reduced friction coefficient will result in lower frictional forces? Simple high school physics will tell you that. It's clear you don't think coatings are worth it, and that's fine. But saying they don't do anything is just incorrect. That's just arguing the laws of physics, which is a bit silly.
  15. LuxonMX

    Upper fork tube damage

    Ouch! Make sure the inside is still nice and round. Slide the lower with bushings through the damaged spot back and forth to make sure there's no resistance. If there is then the only real fix is to get a new tube. You can file off the gouge to smooth it out and get this re-coated to make it look better, but the gouge will still be pretty obvious. It may be cheaper and better to just get a new tube.