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About nmilne

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  1. Just a question out to the general community ... does anyone know of aftermarket or MX mufflers (probably from a twin system) that runs about a 36mm ID core size? I'm getting a bit tired of waiting for someone to make a set of cans for the 09 husky SMR and I figure if I can find something near enough it should be easy enough to get some connecting pipe bent up... And no I don't want to spend the 3 grand on the husky ti system
  2. Yep, seems ok, bike fired up fine but yet to road test it (since it was close to midnight and the neighbours might get upset ). Of course I forgot to set the AP adjustment screw with the carb out of the bike so will have to apply a little trial and error if its a bit boggy off the bottom end
  3. All back together now, seems to be functioning mechanically fine. I lock wired the AP linkage together since I didn't have an o-ring lying around Carb is back in the bike (much easier getting it in than out I must say) and hopefully get the rest bike back together tomorrow night
  4. Hokay, got the rod out easily enough just grabbing it with some pliers. With the rod removed I was able to straighten it out quite a bit until it was pretty darn close to being true (about 0.25mm deflection over its length). I stuck the rod into the drill press and used some sand paper to get ride of the marks from the pliers and then some wet & dry to smooth it back down. I stuck it back in a bingo, she's good to go I saved all of about 8 bucks, but its the time to locate the part locally or get it shipped from o/s that was the driver (we have 1 kehin distributor in aus which leads to somewhat inflated prices). The other good news is that in starting to clean up the floor in the shed I found the circlip. Would have never expected to find it again honestly. So mark that one up to good luck. Now I just need to get my 42 pilot, a 60 leak jet and a zip tie fuel screw next week and I should be good to go - thanks for your assistance
  5. Thanks for that, will have a crack today. Just need to work out if I won't get ripped silly for the parts locally or wait to order it from sudco. Unfortunately the dealer is another state, but rather sort it out myself as long as its not terribly expensive
  6. So before I go and break something ... Once I removed the circlip holding in the black follower/cam thing it lets it sit forward a bit and the round head of the AP shaft sits in the middle of the hole that it sits in. But its still fairly firmly in there - do I need to hold the black follower/cam still and lever it a bit to pop the round head of the shaft out, or should it come out easier than that?
  7. Ok, got it apart finally after much cajoling to get the dang thing out of the bike. And I thought my DRZ was a tight fit! Anyway, the pump lever itself is fine, but strangely enough the AP linkage doesn't work too well when the bottom end of the shaft that goes into the diaphragm is bent. The brain surgeons at the dealership that 'fixed' the jetting must have bent it when trying to wrestle the float bowl cover back on (instead of just using the inspection plug). So now I just need to pull the shaft out ... if I can work out how to get it off the black plastic cam thinggy. Oh, and find the circlip that holds it on after it went pinging around the back of the shed
  8. Hi folks - I've just come into ownership of an 07 husky 450 SMR and have just found that the AP linkage on the throttle cable side seems to be jammed. I realised this to begin with when I noticed that the throttle was sticking open when on WOT. I pulled the cover and saw that the adjustment screw was coming back and fouling on the cam part of the linkage, as the linkage wasn't moving at all. I've removed the adjustment screw entirely so that it doesn't foul (and because it was useless as the arm wasn't following the screw anyway to regulate the AP). Here are a couple of photos to illustrate what I'm talking about, both taken with the adjustment screw removed. Throttle closed - Throttle open - As you can see, the AP linkage doohickey doesn't move at all, and I can't move it by hand either (either while the throttle is open or closed). You can see where the adjuster screw goes, and you can see where it would be fouling on the second pic against the cam part of the linkage (with the green spot on it). Now this is obviously going to be causing problems with the regulation of the squirt on the AP, but has anyone run across this before, or aware of a mis guided 'fix' that this might represent? The bike is still under warranty so I'm fighting off the urge just to take it to bits myself and give it to a dealer to fix since it won't cost me anything.....
  9. nmilne


    Hopefully things aren't too bad - I'm sure everyone remembers the last time that SMJ got hacked and they lost everything, all the forum contents, the lot and things went back to the start again
  10. nmilne

    KTM 625, 640sm, or Husky 610sm?

    Husky and KTM maintenance should be about the same. Both the husky and ktm are great bikes, the husky a bit lighter, and the ktm vibes a bit much for me. If you can wait the new 690 ktm looks great on paper, but budget on throwing away the stock ugly headlight/guard and sticking a full exhaust on and you should be laughing
  11. nmilne

    Post Pics Of Your Supermoto!!

    soupa ... that's an incredible looking bike ... barring the mirrors But seriously, wow.
  12. nmilne

    Husky hubs

    Just wondering if anyone knew which husky hubs are interchangeable? Custom spacers are easily made, but basic dimension and axle size wise. Reason for asking is that I may have a spare set of 17" original husky rims and spokes and wanted to know what hubs to look out for...!
  13. nmilne

    Husqvarna SM610...Husaberg FS650 reliability

    Main bearing failure are the bane of bergs. Just a good excuse to buy the JBS Racing 750 kit of course
  14. nmilne

    Husqvarna SM610...Husaberg FS650 reliability

    Oh, and they're not so bad at bouncing off cars...
  15. nmilne

    Husqvarna SM610...Husaberg FS650 reliability

    The 610SM is in a fairly low state of tune compared to the 450/510 and is a solid design. Its got a reasonable sump size (2 litres) and cush drive so should be very reliable. On mine I'm planning on changing oil around every 2500kms, though the manual lists every 5000. And its nowhere near a berg 650 - its nowhere near the performance, nor is it near the maintenance schedule. The 53hp is at the crank, so more like mid-high 40's at the rear wheel. The berg 650 is more like 60-65 at the rear wheel...