mebgardner

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About mebgardner

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  1. I'm at 12,500 miles now and my cycle became hard to start when cold, again. It idles fine, and runs fine when warmed up, and this fall I cold routinely start it up with 1/2 choke and a couple seconds of the starter motor while at 3000 ft., and 75 deg. F. Then, the first cold snap with the cycle in the unheated garage. Aaaaand it would crank and crank, sputter to life and die. Nothing with choke or throttle would get the beast to start normally. I re-read this thread, and knew the "too much filter oil" was not the problem this time. I also re-read the common advice of "valve lash out of spec" under these conditions. I last checked my valve lash clearance at 2400 miles, and my notes indicate the exhaust valves were close to tight at that time (.009 and .009). 4 years later, and time to check the valve lash clearance again now. Both Intake were at 0.006 in. (mid range), but both Exhaust were now at 0.008 (limit at "tight" end of spec.). Well, I'm looking for "out of spec", and I figure this is close enough. I mark the timing chain with dabs of paint at 2 points on each cam, at the link pointing at the numbered arrows. Loosen the MCCT, and off comes the exhaust cam cover. I hang the chain with twist ties onto the frame, insuring it does not jump teeth at the crank or the intake cam. I re-shim both exhaust to 0.011 in. (shims changed: 308mm -> 300mm, and 305mm -> 300mm) , and close it back up. 3-Bond sealant on the reused valve cover gasket to seal it around the half moons. Spark plug looked fine, and gap is OK. I reuse that too. Reset the MCCT. So, I let the 3-Bond set up overnite, and start it up in the morning. It's about 40 def. F when I pull it out of the garage, cool but not really cold. Full choke for that temperature, and 2 seconds of starter button and the cycle turns right over and runs fine. Warm it up, and fine tune the MCCT. I'm out a whole $15.00 for the two new shims, and a bit of 3-Bond (which I had on hand). Yeah, I could have bought a shim kit, but not this time. I put this episode down to "too tight valve clearance".
  2. Today I made the repair, and now understand my original mistake. I now know why it leaked after I replaced the stator. Upon removing the stator housing, I see the electrical grommet sitting sideways in the cover cutout. I did not originally understand I could move the wires back 'n forth through the grommet. I *thought* the wires were sealed to it and, they are, but it's possible to push/pull the wires back 'n forth through the grommet to adjust the bundle length to the grommet. One yanks on the wire bundle (OK, gently yanks), until it has enough length to allow the wires to run adequately to the stator, but also allow the grommet to seat without moving once everything is tight. Push the grommet into the stator direction on the wire bundle, and clean everything with a blast of brake cleaner. Then a bit of threebond to the wire bundle, and pull the grommet back over the threebond, to seal that. More threebond coating to the U-shape of the grommet, a thin amount, and just a scoch more, a very small amount, into the housing cutout. Place and tighten down the metal wire bundle bracket / holder, a slight drop of blue Loctite on the threads. Push the new housing gasket into place. (I replaced it again because: a) I did not know what was leaking, and be) a good thing I did cause the existing one has some damage from the grommet sitting sideways). Seat the grommet and double check the seating. If it moves away from, out of, the U-shape cutout, then you don't have enough slack. Move grommet around until everything stays stationary and in place. Fit stator cover back to the motor, double checking the pin inserts are in position and starter gear bushings are in place. Place and torque the cover bolts to spec. Assemble in reverse order, and let set up for a day. Thanks for the assist, folks!
  3. I read into that reply, that you discard it when it "gets funny". This stuff is not real expensive, but compared to RTV that I can get at the corner store, yes it is and a long wait to get it, too. So, what does "gets funny" look like? Harder, cured around the edges, something else?
  4. TB12007B arrived today. Huh, made in Japan, and has an expiration date. I did not expect the date thing. It's "in date", and I hope it keeps well. My garage is not cooled, and it's something like 110 in there right now. That's where it's gonna wind up when I put it up, until I need it again. Oh Well... Still waiting on parts: fresh gaskets and O-rings. I'm not gonna do this again, any time soon... Fool me once.
  5. Threebond TB1207B, correct?
  6. William, just out of curiosity... Why do you not endorse RTV as a suitable substitute? I used Permatex "Maximum Black" RTV, the tube says it's maximum resistance to oil leaks, gasket maker, and rated to 500 deg. F. I think my original mistake is two fold: 1) I used RTV between the gasket and the grommet, and 2) I did not let it set up. I think I remember being in a hurry to find out if the stator replacement cured my electrical problems (it did), and now I have a new problem. This is almost an oil thread starter bait, I know, but I am curious about what your opinion is about why no RTV? I looked in the Suzuki repair manuals I have on hand. The Suzuki DRZ manual (2000-2007) did not give me any guidance on the sealant type or where to put it. I found nothing. The Clymer manual did not indicate a sealant brand, but to use some on both sides of the cover gasket (which I will not do, since you did not say to do that, and the Suzuki manual does not say to do that).
  7. OK, thanks. It appears I'll put this on my plate, then. I see no instruction to put sealant across the top of the grommet, after the insertion into the cover recess, nor any sealant next to either corner of the grommet where it would smash to the gasket. That is, the gasket side of the grommet, remains "dry" of sealant. Thanks for the tips.
  8. I removed and replaced a Ricky Stator recently. I've been in there before, for the Loctite fixes. I used a new OEM gasket during the install, and torqued all bolts to spec. Now, I have an oil leak, about a teaspoon amount every couple weeks. It's annoying me, but not threatening the motor. I used a very thin film of Permatex Black RTV completely around the rubber wire block during install, and I think maybe that was a mistake, that being where the leak is coming from. I cannot tell that for sure, I just know the oil appears to be coming from that area (hidden behind the starter gears). I already did the "hold your breath, and torque them all down just a little bit tighter", bit. That did not work to fix the leak, but I did not strip anything out, either. I know to play carefully with motorcycle fasteners. So, what do you think? Fix it, or leave it?
  9. I accept your mastery of this cycle, and your advice. I do wish I did not have to follow it... I have extras in stock, for all of these gaskets (except the petcock vacuum gasket / rebuild kit I wanted, of course!). So, the advice is to replace the o-ring annually. I *think* this is because I might forget to turn off the gas at the petcock. Yeah, I guess that could happen, I get distracted all the time. One time would be all it takes to ruin the motor from gas in the oil, huh? That would be a bad day. It's good advice. Thanks, Erik!
  10. New Raptor petcock. New needle valve o-ring. I had to discard the in-line gas filter, no room for it between raptor output and carb input. I'll now rely on the raptor filter / mesh screen, and the needle valve mesh / screen, both were clean and like new. I was surprised to see just how bad the o-ring had become. It was hard and brittle, and numerous cracks. That was a new carb just two years ago. Wow... New button head screws onto the float cover. Flush oil, discard, and fill with fresh. New oil filter too. Cycle started right up, idled and ran fine first try. Now to get used to the new on/off procedure
  11. OK, thanks guys. 'Nother pull of the carb, then. I'll have to pull it completely off at least this time, to insure I can get a good purchase on the carb bottom screws, since they're brand new and OEM. I have a supply of all carb gaskets on hand, and I see I have the needle valve seat o-ring on-hand. Looks like 'nother day of wrenchin' instead of ridin'. Anyway, thank you so much for the "leg up" on the fixes required. Thank You!
  12. Just finished the oil drain. 2.0 qts, instead of 1.7. Very small amount of steel color bits (2-3) the size of pinhead or smaller. Small amount (12?) of (very small, 1/4 pinhead or smaller) bronze color bits, too: Bottom end bearing, I think. Cowpie: I never considered I might be doing something to *reduce* reliability, when adding the carb cleaner. Oh! Yeah, I guess so, huh?
  13. My 2007 DRZ400S, with 9600 miles on it, gave me a Christmas present yesterday. It stuttered, stalled, and would not idle. I checked the fuel, and the petcock ran gas practically full stream. Checked the oil, yup gas in the oil too. I think I saved the motor, I shut it off early to investigate since it was not running normally. I've got a replacement Raptor petcock on the way, from ProCycle.com. This is 2nd time in three years I've been burned by a leaky OEM petcock. No more of that, thank you. I'm mulling the replacement of the needle valve gasket, too. I replaced the entire OEM Mukuni carb about 2 years ago, at 7500 miles thereabouts. (Long story, lets not go there...). I'm thinking that the gas in the oil means the gas got by the float needle somehow too, meaning the needle seat and / or the needle valve gasket. I run an in-line aftermarket fuel filter, I'm fairly sure it's not dirt related. Could be the needle valve is sticky open I guess... I run carb cleaner in through the fuel regularly. Not injector cleaner, or "full system" cleaner, but dedicated carb cleaner (Lucas, I think). I'll have to completely pull the carb (again!), since the OEM "soft" screws are in the bottom base, and I don't want to strip them. What say you, best and brightest? Do I need to go into the 2 year old, *brand new OEM stock* carb, to replace the needle seat and / or gasket? An aside: I read about folk's cycles leaking gas onto the garage floor when they fail this way. I understand how the gas gets into the oil OK, but how does gas find it's way it completely out of the motor? Thanks for the assist.
  14. OK, thank you, all! Message received, it gets replaced.
  15. To my friends on this forum, thank you for a wonderful year. Merry Christmas!