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About mebgardner

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  1. GoCruise, $20.
  2. Do you still need help? Is the issue cleared up for you by your shop?
  3. I see you'll not be needing any further gas tanks mods, I think. That's the RR Evo2 system on your cycle. Nicely set up for mostly tarmac based distance travel. What made you decide to not install the RR tower equipment, but opt for the Britannia instead? Cheaper? Better lights?
  4. <sigh> Man, did I just get schooled. You're right, of course. Oh Hey, that bar graph that looks like a fuel gauge? Oh, that's the coolant temperature! (In my best Homer) Doh! Thank You, Force.
  5. Did you get the Lynx "R", or the "S" model? Touring or Sport? How do you like it? Do you get much buffeting from the airflow? If yes, where does it hit you (chest, face, forehead, top of helmet?) Please forgive me for the slight correction, this product was difficult to find. Here's the correct spelling:
  6. I agree with Bryan, the Vitpilen tank install is going to cause a lot of headache, and leg ache during use. A neat idea, but I don't think its going to work out like you think. I also know of a Rally Raid fuel tank setup, but I do not recommend them. Notice the pictures (above) of the Safari tank setup. Notice that it is a "dual tank" (left and right) configuration. I believe that configuration of Safari to be very slightly smaller than the "single tank" configuration, because of the lack of "crossover" tank room at the middle where the two get (manufactured) tied together. However, I recommend the dual over the single even tho its smaller. The single has some installation clearance problems (discussed in another thread), and I believe the dual configuration avoids these issues. Good luck, and welcome aboard to the OP!
  7. Do you have any tips for the installation of the upper and / or lower Penrun? DrKayak mentions less free play, and what a PITA it is to install... I'm waiting for my Superplush rear shock collar install, and then I'll do this at the same time (Parts are on the bench, now). I gotta go in there anyway, the fuel sensor in the tank (or something) is kaput. It gives me "full" readings on the display when I'm empty, or full. Anyway, if you have Penrun install tips, I would like to read them please.
    From: You can get these direct, they ship from Serbia. These are high quality parts, and I chose these over the Rally Raid components because of the Penrun addition of the lower subframe bushings made of superior materials. It's the slow degradation of the OEM bushings that cause the subsequent failure of the rest of the system boltup. The bushings degrade, and then allow parts to "wiggle" over use. Once that starts occurring, the frame bolts eventually fail. So, get better bushings, don't reuse the OEM ones.
  8. 1 review

    Replacement for weak OEM upper and lower tank bolts. Available as kit (upper and lower bolt assembly) for 2008-2013 or 2014-on models. (Fits on Husqvarna 701) - 701 owners, please read THIS! Button head bolts are now included in the kit. Upper assembly (bolt caps and bolts) is also available as separate item too and it is same for all model years. KTM 690 Enduro/Enduro R/SMC suffer from known and documented problem with weak upper subframe (tank) bolts. This kit minimizes chance of failure of upper subframe (tank) bolts, by preventing free play in lower tank joint and by improving quality and design of upper tank joint. KTM 690 Enduro and Husqvarna 701 tank bolts issue explained. Kit consist of upper and lower assembly. Upper assembly: Upper bolt caps(qty. 2) are made of AISI 4140 steel, heat treated (for added strength) then zinc coated (rust protection). That makes them virtually indestructible. Size of the head is standard – 27 mm, same as front axle nut. There is M6 threaded hole for OEM bolt holding plastic fairing. Bolt cap is designed to be slim so plastic fairing is not sticking out more then it does when OEM upper bolt is used. Upper bolts (qty. 2 + optional 2) are 12.9 machine bolts, zinc coated. These are much stronger then OEM upper tank bolts. 25 mm long, so 15 mm is threaded into the bolt cap, when properly torqued. NOTE: in kits for 2014-2016 bikes additional button head bolts are provided - those are for Husqvarna 701 bikes. M6 small washers(qty. 2)are standard M6 steel zinc coated washers. These are used with OEM M6 bolts, that holds side fairings and bolts into the upper bolt cap. Lower assembly: Lower bushings (qty. 2) are made of strong plastic - polyamide with molybdenum, much stronger then OEM rubber lower bushings, yet gentle enough to be in close contact with plastic tank (rubber OEM upper bushings are kept, because completely rigid tank-frame connection wont be a good thing). Slightly different size, so they fit better. Sleeve(qty. 1) is made of AISI 304 stainless steel, without internal thread. Lower bolt (qty. 1) design is only difference between kit for 2008-2013 and 2014-on bikes. For 2008-2013 bikes high quality M8x140 allen head 12.9 zinc coated bolt is provided. For 2014-on bikes custom M8x154 mm hex head 10.9 zinc coated bolt is provided. Washers (qty. 1) are standard large M8 steel zinc coated washers andnut(qty. 1) is standard M8 steel zinc coated safety nut.
    Much much better than the flimsy aluminum OEM collars. This is one beefy collar / ring, made of stainless steel. It's heavy and it will take such a beating and laugh at it. Follow SOP to install it: Clean the shock threads before R+R, and use plenty of WD40 to insure you do not wreck the shock body when dismounting the OEM collars. Re-use the OEM locking ring when installing this collar. My .02 tip: Install the Perun Moto Subframe Tank Reinforcement Kit while you're in there.
  9. 1 review

    Stainless Steel Heavy Duty Rear Shock Preload Collar for KTM 690 (non-2008). From here: It accepts KTM adjustment tools, or generic "pin type" (BMW) adjustment tools, both on the same collar. Or, beat it with a screwdriver and hammer will work too.
  10. It's always "it will be here the next month". I gave up, and bought the "Superplush" stainless steel heavy duty rear shock collar ring (54 mm). He has these in stock now, today. (See KTMTwins website for a picture of it, but they show "out of stock"). Heres the URL: Its not in the online catalog, you have to ask for it. But, they got'em.
  11. I have a problem with my fuel level indication. I'll fill the OEM tank, and ride the cycle. The fuel level gauge indicates "full tank". Then, I park it. When I allow the cycle to sit unused for about 30 minutes, then if I periodically turn the cycle "on" but do not start it (say, every 5 minutes), the fuel level indication gets lower and lower until at the last it indicates "no fuel" / empty. That is, the gauge gradually indicates there less and less fuel until it reads "empty". Then, if I start the cycle and ride it around for about 10 minutes, the fuel level gradually climbs up to the "correct" level. The gas cap has no effect on this problem. Open or not, the gauge behaves the same. There's no pressure escaping from the gas cap when opened, the tank is not pressurized. The gas cap vent is clear, unobstructed. The Safari tank has no effect on the problem. The Safari is tied off, sealed off, and I've confirmed it does not leak in or out into the Main OEM tank. There's no apparent gas leaks anywhere. The Main OEM tank appears to be "tight", not leaking. Any Ideas about what causes this problem with the gauge reading?? I've located the fuel level sensor on the parts fiche diagrams, but it "floats" next to the tank picture. There no indication on the picture about where the sensor is physically located on the tank. The Service Manual indicates an electronic part similar to a rheostat (potentiometer) on page 275, but is silent on any service / testing of the sensor. Anyone know where to find the sensor on the tank? My 2017 690 Enduro R "buzzes" full time when the cycle is turned on (but not running), and the sound comes from around the fuel pump area. The buzzing is continuous when the cycle is not running, and I can not hear it with the cycle running (so, I don't know if it's still "buzzing" or not). Thanks.
  12. I own an aftermarket Safari Tank, fitted to my 2017 690 Enduro R. The tank is made by an Australian manufacturer, and is imported and distributed by in the US. It's *very* expensive, more than $700 at this time. It is one of, I think, three solutions available to fit an aux. gas tank to this cycle. The manufacturer will be building a new tank to replace this model, and I believe it's due for availability within a year from now, maybe sooner. The new tank will be somewhat bigger (will hold more fuel), and will also be over $1000.00 in cost. This is my story of attempting to correctly fit the current model tank, to my cycle. The problems are simple to explain and understand. A few pictures, and you'll have a clear understanding of what's wrong. The written explanation is, the left fork leg grazes the left tank side in a left turn. There's no clearance remaining for the left fork leg, when at maximum left turn, so it hits the tank in a "grazing" manner, and "slides over it" while turning. The right fork leg and right tank side have too much clearance. There is no problem of them hitting each other in a turn, but all of the left side clearance is over here, on the right side. Simply put, the tanks sits to the left of center, down the cycle center line axis, front to back. It "hangs over" the cycle left side too much. I have been in communications with the manufacturer about this problem, over the weeks since initial installation. It is *not* correctable on my tank. It's "built this way", and can not be changed. The manufacturer has stated that I have the correct tank, and that my pictures indicate / demonstrate a manufacturing defect. They have also stated that "all of their tanks for this model cycle, are made in the same manner, and look identical to my pictures." All of their "on the shelf" stock, look like my pictures. ie: There will be no cherry picking to send me a "better" tank. There are no "better" tanks, they are all made like what you see below. They are not going to change their production methods or tooling. They acknowledge a manufacturing defect, but they are not going to change the manufacturing process. We discussed corrective options, and on-cycle measurements at great length, over many weeks. They were kind but firm. "This is the way the tanks are made, and we offer you two choices / options to proceed". Return the tank for a refund. Or, accept a partial refund / credit and be done. I also attempted to change the mounting bracket to attempt to bring the tank "back to center". I worked at this solution for awhile, and determined that this sort of fix, will not work out. I asked the manufacturer to make me a custom mounting bracket (the "tank top mounting bracket"), and they declined, but they are sending me a replacement bracket at no charge. I took the partial refund and the extra bracket. I'll live with the tank being clipped at full left turn lock. YMMV. In the pictures below, you're looking at the front of the tank, looking rearward. The brass screw inserts embedded in the tank plastic are what the tank top mounting bracket, bolts up to. The "up-pointing" arrows point at the top shoulders of the tank. The "down pointing" arrows point at the bottom shoulders, or "underneath" shoulders, of the tank. Note the offset of the mounting inserts with respect to the top shoulders. Note the symmetry of the mounting inserts with respect to the bottom shoulders. From these pictures, it is very easy to understand why the tank sits "catty whompus", to one side of the cycle's centerline.
  13. OK, stalls when hot but only after a "soaking heat", after running reliably for some long time. That is a tough one... You've replaced a lot of parts. What was the source of the new fuel pump? KTM, or aftermarket? Used pump, or new? I think we know these pumps tend to fail when they get hot. I think it is the ECU that decides the pump should cycle off-to-on-to-off, dependent on fuel pressure. So, if the fuel pressure switch / sensor is broken, perhaps the pump is on, full time? You would not know it, but the pump would get hot. New parts also have "infant mortality", it's not uncommon. Just 'cause the fuel pump is new, does not mean its gonna work out long term. My money is problem is somewhere in the fuel system, and these two causes are leaders. Insure no blockage / kinks in the gas tank air vent outlet (dirt clogging vent inlet?). That could cause a very slow, long time interval, vapor lock. Air mass sensor, in the airbox? Air temperature sensor? Failure of either of these would indicate an incorrect air mass setting for the fuel delivery? There is a common failure of the wire loom for these two sensors. The wrap that holds them to the frame eventually cuts the wires from the vibration. The stator ohm reading would be a "red flag" for a battery condition. Have you put a voltmeter across the battery? What is the voltage? (Mine reads 14.1 - 14.3 VDC reliably, even at idle). EDIT: This could be a red flag anyway. I have seen stators fail when they get hot (hot oil bath "cooling", remember), and appear to be OK when at room temp. However, if the battery voltage is "good" at *all* times (when just starting out, and also when cycle stalls), then this becomes less of a flag. That's enough for now, I think. Post back further when you have more.