mebgardner

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About mebgardner

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  1. If you want engine case covers, this is your only option. No one else offers a case cover for this motor, to cover the Stator and Clutch engine case sides. (Actually the TT store offers a clutch side cover for a DRZ400 motor that will fit the 690 Enduro motor clutch side. But, that option will not cover where the brake lever will impact the engine cover in a cycle drop. That remains exposed). I like case covers as part of an overall engine protection strategy. These, and an oversize gas tank, and a bash plate, will offer a lot of overall protection coverage. Not resilience, but coverage. If you want resilience, you must use crash bars and radiator guards instead (metal hard parts). They will take a bigger beating, and more of it. But, those pieces will be heavier as in, you're lifting them every time you have to pick up the bike. That's the tradeoff. These R&G covers are an expensive option. Probably 25-35% the cost of a new (undamaged used?) engine case. They're some sort of fancy plastic, not metal. I think they were developed with a slide in mind, not a drop (scraping force across the cover, not impact force perpendicular to the cover). There are spacers installed with longer screws that raise the cover slightly above the underlying case. That is, there's an "air gap" between the two parts. The procedure is to dismount just two engine case screws, out of the set of (12?), then insert spacers in the case cover, insert the screws into and through the case cover, and then beat / kick / rubber mallet the case cover into place over the engine case. Tighten the two screws down and you're done. One more tidbit. That air gap allows oil to dribble in between the parts (case and case cover) every time you pop open the oil filter covers. One filter cover per side means equal opportunity for dribbleness to take up residence in there. Then, for the next few days, you pick the cycle up off the side stand and watch a drop or two of oil dribble out onto your floor. Ugh. So, now you know. Tape up the gaps before every oil change. Around the Oil filler hole, too.
  2. I've been trying to correct a right-to-left tank-to-front forks clearance issue this morning with this tank installation. The Safari manufacturer has mis-centered the top tank mounting holes, where the top bracket / seat pin bracket would bolt on to. The top tank mounting holes consist of small bits of threaded metal, that are embedded into the tank plastic during the tank manufacturing process. These threaded metal bits are not centered sideways, left-to-right, across the tank top. So, they cause the tank to sit further to one side of the cycle than the other, during bolt up. It's not much, maybe 5 mm. But it now causes the tank to hit the left front fork tube during a turn. I've tried for hours to correct it some other way. It looks like it will never be right, and I'll have to live with it. I will talk to the US distributor and see what happens next. Edit: I've got pictures that conclude the tank is mis-cut from the plastic, across the top and likely down the sides. I will not publish them in public yet, before I determine how this will proceed with Safari.
  3. This mod is being performed onto a 2017 KTM 690 Enduro R. The Safari tank is *very* expensive, twice that of Japanese cycle gas tank mods. Is it worth it? The is my reasoning for selecting it. I don't like to carry fuel in containers that might get "smushed" if the cycle is dropped. I also believe this gas tank offers some radiator protection in a drop, so it's useful for something other than just carrying extra fuel, and lighter (just the tank) than crash bars. Those are my main reasons. On to the install. You'll need some stuff the manual does not suggest. An extra 3 ft. length of gas line. Masking tape and marker pen, for witness markings. Allow all day for this job. Really, I'm not kidding. 8-10 hours. The instructions start with dismounting the fuel pump. If at all possible, ride the cycle tank dry. The fuel pump is pressure activated, and has a timer shutoff of about 4-5 seconds. So, you can not turn on the cycle, and use the fuel pump to empty the tank. It does not work that way. I dismounted the rear tire, and used a plastic sheet spread out over the rear swingarm as a funnel into a 11x14 photo tray, to catch the draining gas. Gas makes a Real Mess. It will magically climb up 'n over any funnel you have in it's desire to wind up on your floor. I had a partial chain cleaning done by the gas on its way to my floor. So, take your time and set up as carefully as possible. NO SMOKING, no ignition sources (hot water heater etc), then crack loose the bolts holding the pump and *slowly* get the gas trickling out. There's a bunch of gas and electric line in the tank, but no need to pull that out. Just expose enough of the pump body to get fingers on the two side tabs as the pump drops down. The pump will pop apart very easily when you squeeze those two tabs. Take a few minutes to clean up your shop from gas related stuff. Gas cans, rags, plastic sheeting, everything related to the mess you now have. Clean it up, make it safe to work. OK, back to the cycle and Safari equipment. Remove the gas line from the Safari aux metal fuel plate. Take it off. The metal plate is your "template" for some time. Now for the drilling. you're going to use the masking tap and pen to make some witness marks at the hole points. The two existing 1.5 mm side holes are 2 mm above the base. You mark and drill two additional 1.5 mm holes at locations vertical (above) those existing holes, at 12 mm distance "up" from those holes. The tape makes this easy. The not so easy hole is the 4 mm diameter hole aligned with the gas entry hole in the new aux metal fuel plate, the intake port from the new tank. It can be done this way: The pump plastic housing to be drilled, is not directional, so just pick a side, that part can not go wrong. However, you *can* get the new metal plate upside down. That would cause you to drill the wrong place on the plastic housing. So, the metal plate *with gasket pointing "UP"*. Witness mark *on the metal plate*, with the marker, where the gas hole is located. Slide the plate onto the housing. Position masking tape vertically onto the plastic housing, about where you marked the metal plate. Mark the tape on the plastic housing where the witness mark on the plate appears. Now you have the vertical location of the gas hole from the plate, transferred onto the plastic housing. Now to get the distances onto the tape. Slide the metal plate off, and use a metric ruler to measure the distance from the gas hole center to the plate base. I measured 4 mm. So, the gas entry hole will be 4 mm "up" from the *compressed gasket* base. That is, allow for the gaskets to "squish" during boltup, and measure 4 mm up from the plastic base, after gaskets have compressed. Mark that onto the tape, and you have your drill point. Double check everything, no room for screwup here. Drill the 4 mm hole centered on that cross hair. Clean up the housing from plastic bits, reassemble the pump, add the new plate and gasket, and bolt it back up, evenly torqueing the bolts in a cross pattern. The gas line entering that metal plate adaptor goes through a 90 deg. metal elbow. From Safari, that elbow is rotated slightly off-center, or "upward". That is, it's "canted up" slightly. The corners of the elbow are extremely sharp metal and "pointy", and will gouge a hole in your OEM tank, as the plate is compressed onto the gas tank. A better plan is to break the Safari made gas seal on the elbow, and remake the seal with the 90 deg elbow centered with the plate. Take it off, add sealing goop, and twist it back on so that the elbow is no longer canted up. No more gouged tank. The instructions say to route fuel lines after tank is in position. Much Better to route the fuel lines before you place the tank on for bolt up. Route the 1st petcock fuel line past the rear shock. Bolt the 1st petcock onto the empty hole next to the "Cycle is Upright" switch. Zip tie the fuel line to the frame to keep it away from the shock. Pay attention to possible clearance issues for a future installation of an Xtrig Preload Adjuster, it's right in this same area. Now to place the tank. They tell you to place a top bracket under the front seat holder "pin". What they don't say is to bend the OEM front seat pin holder bracket "down" slightly to account for the new elevation from the bracket addition. Trivial, until you're attempting to get your seat back on, with the tank now bolted up. Bend the seat pin bracket. This step prevents much swearing later. When you have that top bracket temporarily bolted down, you'll need to use a prybar to lever "up" on the corners, to raise the screw holes where the tank will bolt up. The screw holes are located too far down, so the screws don't line up when bolting up the tank. Pry the arms "up". Now, while holding up on the prybar, bend the bracket arms towards vertical, toward the front of the cycle. This will move the tank forward a very small amount *and* get the tank screws holes to line up with the top bracket holes. A 2-fer. You will also have to bend those same top bracket arms "out" towards the cycle sides, to get the screw holes to align up. OK, one more note on the top bracket. Center it side-to-side on the seat holding bracket, and center those on the cycle centerline as best you can. Otherwise, the sides of the tank will interfere with the fork tubes when making a turn. Bottom line: Be prepared to bend on that top bracket. It took me four tank mount / dismount cycles to get that top bracket correct. Talk about a dark cloud over my head when that was going on. Oh Boy! Don't forget to clean the new tank with some gas before mounting it. Not forgetting this step will prevent another mount / dismount cycle. Sheesh! The fuel line routing can be, and should be, done before mounting the tank. The pictures show the fuel line routing behind the motor, around the back of it. Safari does not give you enough fuel line to do it right, or well. Disassemble all the fuel lines from the petcocks and the gas line T. Take them all off, they're not right. The left side line is too short. Use the 3 ft. piece of fuel line you bought and route it from the left side tank petcock location (approximate, the tank is not in place yet), *under* the tank brackets (to keep the line low, use a zip tie to keep it off the hot pipe just below), around the left rear of the motor, to the rear of the starter, and out the middle right side of the cycle, just behind the 1st petcock. Next, route another line (the longest one from Safari), and route it from the right side tank petcock location, *over* the tank bracket (the line stays low enough), and out the cycle side just in front of the rear brake lines. These two lines are "T"'ed with the supplied gas line tee. Use the T arms. Finally, use the shortest gas line from Safari to go from the 1st petcock output to the T's tail. As I finish the routing, I can clearly see the arm's side of the T, on the outside of the rear metal brake lines. The two arms of it have one line running forward to the right tanks petcock, the other arm line running back to loop around to the left tank petcock, and the T tail points "inward" to the interior of the cycle, behind the motor, to the 1st petcock (the tank "source" back to the fuel pump). I ran it like that so I could see, easily, at a glance, any leak from the T connections. OK, test fit the tank. Drop it into position. Don't bolt it up yet. Check to see how you get the seat on and off, now. It should be easy. If not, bend the seat pin bracket some until it's not excruciating. I said it like that, cause the seat on / off will never be easy again. An aftermarket seat, such as Seat Concepts, will clear the tank, but *just* barely. It will be a tight fit. Now try bolting up the tank. Loosely. Check the steering swing for tank clearance. Adjust the top bracket position now, if needed. Check the top bracket mounting holes to tank mounting holes for easy bolt up. When done, tighten up the top bracket and seat pin bracket. You can *not* reach them when the tank is in place. Utterly can not turn them from any angle, once the tank is on. Tighten all the mounting bolts now. Recheck the seat. Recheck the steering. Insert and clamp all fuel lines to petcock locations, and recheck them. Turn off all petcocks. Put some small amount of gas in the main OEM tank and check for leaks at the pump. Run the engine. The motor should kick over after one or two cycles of the main on / off switch (to cycle the gas pump once or twice). The low fuel light should illuminate. Turn off the motor. Add gas to the Safari. Look for leaks. Open all three petcocks and look for leaks. Rotate the petcocks a few times, and keep looking for leaks at all gas line break points. If nothing is leaking, YAY you're almost done. Go for a ride...
  4. I'm going to discuss the installation of the various pieces in separate threads. There were things I learned along the way that I hope some will find useful, if they go down this path.
  5. Last set of mods now completed: ADVMonster Aux Lights,44W LEDS and Dimmer: ADVMonster: $250.00 RAM Mount for Spot Gen3: KTM Twins: $17.00   Doubletake Enduro Mirrors: RMATV x 2: $90.00   Battery Tender SAE connector: Amazon: $5.50   Rally Raid Golan Mini filter kit: KTMTwins: $144.00   Safari tank, Translucent: JustTanks: $712.00 Time for some pictures
  6. Right. For now, it's a why bother? That was a very nice thing to learn, not having to swap out stators, not having to install a series regulator, or swap out bulbs, or wire stuff direct to battery, etc... That was a good tidbit you threw my way, too. I may not have to work very hard to support heated accessory clothing. Nice! There's another tidbit in there for me, as well. That a 3800 lumen (approx. 25-30 watt call it, then) LED will appear to be much brighter than a stock halogen. The color temperature will affect the judgment, without a light meter measurement (5500 deg kelvin will appear "blue white", and 3500 deg kelvin will appear "warm white"). The cutoff feature of the LED / housing combination, and the beam focus will also affect the brightness judgment. But, as a WAG, it's a pretty good target to aim for when considering a purchase. Thanks! I have one for you: If that LED fan fails, you're looking a very fast meltdown in the housing. That fan is supposed to transport the heat out of the fixture, and without that, plastic will quickly melt. That's the wiring behind the LED, and the plastic thingie that holds the wiring. It might melt the housing too, I'm not sure about what it's made of. So, if the LEDs really are cheap, then consider placing the replacement of it on a long term rotation maintenance schedule, like every two years, something like that. Good Luck, and thanks for the conversation.
  7. Yeah, that's usually my bottom line reason. Most cycles have awful electrical systems, and one needs to scrape for every watt. This cycle (my 2017 690 Enduro) is an exception to the dirt bike rule: It has what appears to be an oversized stator (still oil cooled). I added 90 watts of aux lighting today to my cycle. The voltmeter, at idle!, dipped from 14.3 VDC to 14.2 VDC while running those lights (ADVMonster 44 Watt x 2) full intensity. That's just astonishing. That's with using the OEM halogen H4 55W (low) / 60W (high) lamp. So, I'm still "on the fence" about *my* need of an LED headlight. I'm not running heated gear yet (Tucson, AZ, in spring, right?), and the electrical system is *fine*, fully supporting the additional aux light load. So, maybe next year if / when I decide to run heated gear.
  8. I see the Cyclops offered in two grades: 3800 lumen, and 7000 lumen. You do not say which you're talking about. Also, I read these Cyclops (both models) are offered only with fan cooling. IMO, this is a *bad* choice for any dirt motorcycle application. I would not recommend it, even if they appear brighter than stock. I believe the 7000 lumen model would be very much brighter than stock, but I'd have to dig deeper for the current draw, and I just don't need a fan cooled lamp. You write the 690 ran all your gear fine with the stock lamp, but you do not talk about how it's doing with the Cyclops. Sorry to be nit-picking, but there's some holes in this story. Edit: From the Cyclops website, I see the 7000 lumen model draws 25 watts on low, 50 watts on high. There's no "specs page", but I assume that, given that statement for low / high power, that 1/2 of the unit is "lit" during low power mode (not high beam). Look at the picture, and you see two emitters, side by side, on the substrate / heat dissipator that you can see. Some manufacturers will add emitters on both sides, some dont, so you have to pay attention to all the pictured views to find that out. Low beam is probably 3500 lumens if my assumption is right, and that "feels" about right, for a 25 watt draw. The users reports make no distinction if they're talking about low .vs high power mode, and neither do you. So, I'm curious: When you're talking about how bright these units are, are you referring to low power (not "high beam" mode), when you're writing about how bright they appear? Really, I'm not picking at you. I'm really interested in getting a complete story, and to hear about your experience.
  9. Cheapo Mods. Every rider should be able to monitor the charging system and battery for these new electronic motorcycles. How about a cheapo $7.00 voltmeter, $5.00 eBay and $2.00 switch connected to ACC1.
  10. Thanks. I am thankful for your patience with me, and your kindness. Thank You!
  11. OK, thanks! I've got another question, just to be sure. You mentioned street cycles use, but, have you been in a get off on your dirt cycles (maybe this one, too), and it did not leak gas. Yes, it has to allow air flow, and so no vacuum lock (that's it's purpose), but it also has to close off when necessary. You did not mention that part, so I'm checking. And, Thanks for getting back to me
  12. How did you position and mount the vent cap back there, close to the tank? They work correctly only when positioned vertically, because they depend on gravity to keep the vent open. I placed mine at the electrical box, near the battery, and zip-tied it vertical to a dongle upright. I've got some reservations about putting it there, though. Like, dumping gas onto the electrics, or possibly dribble it onto a hot exhaust in a getoff. I'm just uneasy about it being there, but I don't know where else to place the thing to have it work correctly.
  13. Found it on the KTM US website: https://www.ktm.com/us/ktmpowerpartsus/?year=2017&segment=Enduro&model=F9775Q8 It's under the PowerParts / Handlebar Instruments - Electrics / Dongle. It's a "bad fuel" dongle, but it also gives you control of the rear brake ABS, to turn that off and leave the front ABS active. I would not ride off-road without it. Yes, it's a KTM part. But, if your cycle purchase is a "done deal", then you're not going to get the dongle now for free.
  14. I apologize, I did not see this question until today. The short answer is: correct. You can get a read somewhat from the "wattage", which is a specification for heat dissipation. That is, the assumption is a 50 Watt LED emits as much *lumens* (a measure of light intensity, not heat), as a halogen. Obviously, they are not equal in light intensity at the same "wattage". However, that is how most manufacturers have chosen to "identify", or market their product. Because, it is something that everyone thinks they understand. Sabe? ;} Even for the LED manufacturers that specify their product in *lumens*, this is not an apples to apples comparo. That is true because there is no standard by which a lumen intensity is measured for LED lamps. That is, a "lumen" is a spec. standard, *but* the way the measurement is taken, is up to interpretation. So, they make a WAG (wild ass guess), based on current flow and charge emittance across a junction barrier, and market that number. It's not exact science, but it's "good enough". There is also the way the halogen .vs LEDs emit their light into the headlight housing, and out into the night. That's different too. Halogens emit in an approximate "sphere", and the housing lens that direct the light output of the housing, are designed for this fact. LEDs are "side emitters". The emitting surface is perpendicular to the axis of the headlight. The light literally emits out the side of the device. The headlight housing is not designed for this, and so they appear "dimmer", because the LED's light output is poorly focused. The bottom line answer to your question is, no the LED products are not a s "bright", and no two products marketed at the same lumens output, will be the same. They will be different. That is a wordy reply, but I hope you find it useful to help understand a complex answer to what you probably thought was a simple question.
  15. I know Patience please. I'll sort through the electrical, and then be into the small stuff. Almost there... Besides, I need to get it dirty some more. Yeah, that's my story, I'm stickin' toit.