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About ridesincircle

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  1. If your riding mx I would not waste any more time on those OC forks. Closing up the float to get bottoming resistance for jumps always results in high speed harshness on that mid valve. Just too much oil has to flow through that 32mm piston. Sell the gold valve kit on ebay. Then put them back together with original base valve and sell on ebay. There is a sss revalve thread on here that has all the info you need on the new forks. You will not be sorry.
  2. The problem there is the alloy and design. They are using 6061 on the split mount design of ktm. Just not enough Web thickness for that alloy. The Japanese bike version of that should be fine because they dont have the split mount with the spring in the middle. If buying Aluminum pegs for ktm or similar design you need at least 2024 or even better 7075. Those raw materials cost more than twice as much though. So to the guy that messed up 3 sets, not your fault it's the stupid engineer. Your lucky you didn't get hurt.
  3. I have 2 of these 03 and 04. My 03 does it worse than the 04. Same exact bike both well maintained fresh top ends everthing top notch. The 04 has always needed one size larger pilot than the 03. The 03 has always wanted to die going steep downhill with the float set the same as the 04. My theory on the screaming on cold start is fuel left in the bowl evaporates leaving the oil behind. After sitting a few weeks, open the valve dumping in new premix now you have 20:1 instead of 40:1 causing it to lean out. I run as lean as possible on the pilot to stop them loading up in the single track, which makes it worse. What I do now is empty the bowl by laying the bike down before storing. It stops the screaming if you have the pilot/air screw set right. If it still screams after that you are set too lean.
  4. If your trail riding especially in rocks you are probably better off with those 04 forks and the steel frame. That year had one year only OC 48mm forks with bottoming cones instead of the previous bumpers. They can be set up more plush than sss. I have that year yz250 that my son rides. He calls them the magic forks, and yes he has ridden plenty of sss bikes. Here is what I did to the valving for rocky east coast single track. Fork base valve 24.11 x 4 12.11 22.11 20.11 18.11 16.15 13.15 11.25 Mid valve I left stock because they had it pretty soft that year due to the new bottoming system. He uses all available travel most days out. Rebound stock Shock compression 40.2 x 9 34.11 30.11 40.2 38.2 36.2 34.2 32.25 30.25 28.25 26.25 24.25 22.2 Rebound stock
  5. Being one of the lucky ones does not mean the job was done right. Here is a list of things you should not do to your bike to stay one of the lucky ones. These common things will all change the fueling requirements. Different reeds Aftermarket piston Head modification Slightly different thickness base gasket Messing with power valve spring Pipe Silencer Different fuel from what was used for map Air filter cleanliness I'm sure I missed some.
  6. If that is the policy then it's time to give up the Race Ready slogan. I don't know a single racer that does not mod the machine to be competitive. Ktm is no longer a race machine if it can't be tuned.
  7. Is there a plug in tuner available from ktm? If so problem solved. Even better integrated into a dash unit with a current throttle position display mode for tuning runs. Then simple + or - fuel percent for various throttle positions. We all walk around with super powerful computers in our pockets. If you are going to do something do it right.
  8. Same problems with 4t just not as bad. My ducati has a power commander on it for the same reason. Ducati could not change the laws of physics either.
  9. These last few posts have hit the nail on the head as to why open loop FI will never work properly out of the box for a mass produced high performance 2 cycle engine. Cumulative error of all parts especially the way a 2 cycle pulls the intake charge. It can never be a one map fits all situation. When you go down to pick up your new bike, it's a crap shoot as to whether yours will match the one they used for tuning the map. Some will get lucky some will not. It's the same with a carb bike but those can be user tuned. They need to either give a tuner with it, or custom map each one before leaving the factory. You know that will never happen.
  10. The rm and kx forks had a 28mm mid valve of the same design as the 98-01 yz. Much easier to get working. Probably why you did not receive the same response from RT.
  11. As long as you are not trying to slam into big rocks in 3rd gear you can probably get them to work for you. Were the cylinder valves leaking? The only time they need to be blocked is if they are leaking or you are trying to run a super stiff base valve that is creating so much cartridge pressure that it just pushes oil out the top. I would take apart the cartridge and see what is in there. If you find more than 1.3mm float for a 2 stroke then you know that is your bottoming problem.
  12. I feel your pain literally. I never was able to get th 98-01 32mm mid valve to work above a certain damper rod speed. Even with as much as 1.7mm float plus 1.1mm of shim edge lift giving a total opening of 2.8mm, which is basically approaching a check valve. I always had a hydraulic lock feeling on fast enough hits. I finally gave up and bought 02-03 era yz forks. They can be had for cheap and have a 2pc mid valve that works great for me. They still have some limitations for mx but I have them set up for rocky single track.
  13. Even though no one has posted in a while, most guys have it in there subscribed list and get a notification of a new post. To pm someone you click on there name in the thread. The page that comes up has a box that says message.
  14. There is a thread on here called Famous Reading outdoor riding meetup. It has been going for years. There are a few guys on there that fit that description. If you post this on there, you should get a response. I know Pat the OP of that thread rides on weekdays. Also PEK rides on weekdays.
  15. The job of the ics spring is to pressurize the cartridge fluid, just like the nitrogen bladder in your shock. That pressure is then pushing down on the end of the damper rod effectively adding to the overall spring rate. I'm not sure how lowering the cartridge pressure would help. Possibly less damper rod seal friction? Everything else they said makes sense to me except more damping progression. That sounds like the opposite of what I do but I am normally converting from mx to rocky single track. They are starting with an offroad specific model.
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