Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About bsben

  • Rank
    TT Member

Profile Information

  • Location

Recent Profile Visitors

80 profile views

    • WANTED
    • Used - Good

    Broke my headlight lens on a tree. Looking for something to put in mask, mostly for aesthetic purposes since I don't ride/race at night. Can use anything from a '15 or '16 Husky TE or FE.


  2. I did that as soon as I got the other one off (with the torch and vise-grips as others suggested). All happy now...
  3. bsben

    4cs knocking noise...help

    Did this ever get resolved? My brand new, zero-hours, TE300 (same forks) is doing the exact same thing. I notice that the clicking changes with damping. Lower damping = louder click, higher damping = quieter/no click.
  4. *grrr* Thanks guys. Did you just replace it with a regular hex flange nut? And is there a particular reason they didn't go with one of those in the first place? It seems so obvious.
  5. I bought a new TE300 in December and I'm getting it ready for spring. One of the things I did was buy a linkage skid from Slavens. Installing it is turning out to be kind of a pain - and not because of the skid. In order to get the linkage bolt out, I had to remove the rear brake pedal. No biggie, but damn, they used some thread locker on that thing. Next up is the linkage bolt. It's got a nut on the left side, just like the bolt on the brake pedal. Unlike the one on the brake pedal though, this one's smooth and round with a flat side that sits against a flat spot in the frame to hold it in place when you torque the bolt. Just like the brake pedal bolt, they apparently used a generous portion of thread locker. I worked it back and forth, slowly applying more pressure with the ratchet until it broke loose. Sadly, it didn't actually break loose. The nut held tight and hogged out the flat spot in the frame and started to spin! I guess I'm kind of surprised that it's even possible to apply enough torque to that bolt to hog out metal on the frame using only a ratchet, but never mind that. At this point, how the hell do get this nut off? Grind off another flat and hold onto it with a wrench? Has anyone else had this issue?
  6. Thanks for the rec. I'd actually never heard of 7602, but it looks like people are pretty happy with their work.
  7. Thanks! How's the installation and how do they fit with the OEM plastic? Also, they look pretty substantial. I'm assuming they're meant to be a one-piece solution, since I don't see a frame/cage to go with them. Is that the case? And if so, how do they stand up to side impacts? Cheers, Ben
  8. I read that the guards will only accommodate a KTM fan. Is your fan a KTM or were you able to fit another one? Also, how do the EE guards fit with your plastic? Any need to modify the rad shrouds to fit the braces? Thanks for the feedback!
  9. Hey all - just picked up a brand new 2015 TE300 and I can't wait to ride it. But it's winter where I am so I'm using the time to fortify it against the inevitable. Right now, I'm looking for recommendations on radiator guards. If you're using guards on yours, I'd love to hear what you're using and what you do/don't like about them. Thanks!
  10. I'd like to know if a 300 XC-W can be plated in Illinois. If anyone's done it, I'd really like to know if it was a matter of simply taking the title into the DMV and doing it, or if there was something else you had to do. Also, if anyone has registered his/her XC-W in Illinois and has the Illinois title even if it's not plated, I've got a question about the language on the title. Specifically: does it say anything at all under the "LEGEND(S)" section? Thanks!
  11. bsben

    Quietest silencer for CR250?

    Mostly, I just hate loud pipes. I rode a friends late-model 300 XC-W recently and it was so much quieter. I loved it. Point taken for racing, and I do like the fact that I don't have to yell to get people's attention when passing. But I'd gladly give it up for less volume at all other times.
  12. bsben

    Quietest silencer for CR250?

    Interesting! How does that work, exactly? It looks like just a section of pipe that slides into the silencer. Are there baffles inside?
  13. I have a 1994 CR250 that I use for hare scrambles, enduros and woods riding. I'm trying to make it as quiet as possible and I'm looking at silencers. I don't care about power (it's got plenty), and I don't care about saving a few pounds. I'd like it to be sturdy, rebuildable and most of all - QUIET. In looking around, it seems that my two best choices are the FMF TurbineCore II (the Q isn't made for my year) and the Pro Circuit Nature Friendly. I currently run an older Pro Circuit Factory Sound which is shown in the pic, along with an FMF Gnarly pipe. So I guess my questions are for those who have experience with two or three of these silencers: First, will either the TC2 or the PC-NF be significantly quieter than my PC-FS? Second, which will be quieter: the TC2 or the PC-NF? Thanks!
  14. bsben

    2001 CR250 Cylinder

    Thanks for all the great feedback. I was trying to do an acid test on the the claim made by some (in this thread and many other places) that nikasil is so hard, that a fine-grit hone won't do anything at all to the nikasil, but will only remove the glazing. The new scratch patterns seen in your pics and mine are proof that that is absolutely not the case since scratches (however small) are the result of removal of material. Your comment about the aluminum oxide is interesting too. I bought a silicon carbide flex hone (because the website said it's fine for nikasil plated cylinders), but I also asked a guy who has a fairly encyclopedic knowledge of two strokes and he said the same thing you did: for nikasil, aluminum oxide is best and that silicon carbide was more for steel sleeves. What's your take on using silicon carbide on nikasil? Should I scrap that hone and get the aluminum oxide one instead?
  15. bsben

    2001 CR250 Cylinder

    Doggers pics look similar to mine in that there seems to be new (non-factory) abrasion on the cylinder walls after honing. Dogger - correct me if I'm wrong. So the ball hone will in fact remove some amount of plating material (not just the glaze) from a cylinder in a very short period of time. So we're left with two, distinct trains of thought in this thread: "never hone" and "always hone", backed up by the usual decades of experience, quotes from experts, etc. Is that about right?