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mr.skywalker

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About mr.skywalker

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    Mississippi
  1. Ive run a a drz400E petcock on mine for about 2 years now and plugged the vacuum port. No issues as long as you turn it off after you ride
  2. Time Left: 2 days and 9 hours

    • FOR SALE
    • USED

    Sold my Husaberg and have everything needed to convert a ktm/Husaberg to a Supermoto. All parts are factory ktm parts and rims are 3.5 front and 5.0 rear. Rear is also cush drive to help reduce drivetrain wear on the street. New front tire but rear is worn and rear rim shows wear from tire changes. I personally only ran this setup for less than 200miles. Also includes 320mm ktm brake adapter(would need to check fitment based on forks), shortened stock kickstand, chain and sprockets(good gearing for street riding) and front brake pads. Would cost about $2000 new. Asking $1000 shipped or $900 local pickup Text or call 2257739562 if interested Please read: These are 26mm front axle and 20 mm rear. The rear was originally black but anodizing was stripped and would need to either be polished, clear coated, or anodized to prevent corrosion but overall it is still in good shape.

    $900.00

  3. I dont have any experience with this kit or Beta's but do know a good bit for tuning forks. First off it sounds like you need to learn some tuning basics before you go any farther. You said you backed out the compression and rebound all the way. You might be ok backing out the compression but rebound you never want to do more than 1 or 2 clicks at a time. As mention if thing are to soft you may ride harsh as you will be getting farther into to the stiffer part of the stroke which too soft of a rebound and compression valving would allow. I commend you go back to the factory settings and get a good basic understanding of what each adjustment does. Also as mentioned check fork to axle alignment as that can cause binding
  4. Gas in the airbox is the tell tale sign of a failing petcock. That can have an affect on starting and getting it consistent bc some times it will be rich from sucking in too much fuel other times it may run perfect. I replaced mine with a non vacuum operated one and it works great now, just turn it to off when not in use like any dirtbike. Another thing to check related to that is check you dont have gas in the crankcase as the airbox has a tube that connects the two. At one point I had close to a gallon of gas between the crank and airbox
  5. check the float level. Idk why but it seems every bike i pick up cheap needs the level adjusted after doing a carb cleaning.
  6. Well I had the chance to ride yesterday. Unfortunately with having the rear rack removed the rear fender does not have any support to keep the fender from flopping down. I did not realize this at the shop bc when all the bolts were tight the fender did not have much play and on the test ride on the street there wasnt much in the way of high g forces to bounce the rear end. So today I used some spare aluminum I had picked up hat Home Depot a few months ago and made a fender support. The goal was to keep it light and I achieved that pretty well and it used the OEM hardware. The other side was 0.09 lbs FYI On one side I made it into a bit of a handle as I did like that feature on the original rack. Considering how much easier this aluminum flexes compared to the oem rack it may not work well but it only took an extra 5 min to add the bends For the ride report: I did get about 45min of riding in despite the floppy fender(would actually hit the tire so I was a little concerned it might damage it) That being said I didnt push crazy hard and I wasnt with the group(all ktms that move pretty good but Ive kept up with them in the past on this bike it just was sketchy at time). The front end felt AMAZING, very good feedback though chop/roots, no nose diving into corners with heavy braking and never and never felt like it I was going to bottom out in G outs or a few jumps I did on the pitbike track. The rear end felt surprisingly good. The initial travel felt a little busy when cornering but it handled the heavier stuff well. Even with it being busy I dont think it was any worse than stock, the front was just so planted it made you realize the rear was quite as stable. On the harder hits it felt the damping on the rear was pretty good and I guess that has to do with the PDS shock secondary damping. I do have the rebound set to the stiffest setting and it would need a little more to make it perfect so its not really adjustable at this point. I may just try running it like this for a few rides before I decide if its worth investing anything else in the rear end as that would be great if its was that cheap of an upgrade where for most riders just the spring is all you need. The exhaust did slightly contact the reservoir a few times so I will be adding a little exhaust wrap to keep the res temps down a bit.
  7. Well mine measured 32.5" so I guess the older dr200 did have longer forks. good to know. in your picture the front does seem to sit a bit higher so that makes sense.
  8. Interesting, if you measure and post the length I'll do the same so we can at least have a comparison. I am happy with the ride height now as the front was just sagging from the light springs. it looks pretty even now that the rear has the right amount of sag.
  9. Well yesterday the last parts came in to do the forks. Talked with Race Tech and if you want to get a set of cartridge emulator gold valves part number FEGV 3301 fits the dr200 forks. For settings the info they sent me for a baseline from their previous notes start with the blue springs at 2.5 turns of preload and 10wt oil. Fits perfectly Before drilling the rods After drilling 4 additional 8mm holes per instructions Stock dr200 springs vs new BBR HD crf150f All finished up. Seems pretty well balanced after backing the rear preload back a little. Just need to have a dry week here and I can get out and test it. If you arent very heavy or too aggressive it should be a sufficient improvement, hope it work well and its nice actually have tunability. For a side note on weight reduction I did take of the rear rack and heavy steel headlamp mount. The headlamp assembly weighs right at 3lbs and the rear rack was 2.5lbs. I am looking to try and find a light weight light I can fab to fit the factory plastic housing that will shave some weight there and not spends alot of money. That said if you were just riding trails I am already over 10 pounds lighter and I havent even started cutting or removing actual wires and switches. I may get down to where all safety switches and turn signal harness are removed. Basically all the bike will have is the start button and light switch for high/low beam and horn( it may not be required here but im looking into this). I am looking go with a lithium battery and change out the large bulky tail light assembly as well. This will probably be last update for a while as I cant really do much else until i do some testing and the weather here has just make it impossible to ride the trails
  10. Here is a few pics of the muffler. If anyone is interested in it let me know, has a the smallest quiet insert and spark arrestor. I want to go to a FMF Q4 so I'd be open to trades plus cash on my end.
  11. Ok, so I just have been putting off posting this bc ive been so busy with work and other projects. So for the spring I have a 450lb/in spring where stock is about 410lb/in so its a pretty significant difference. Its about 1 inch shorter but the threads can make up for the length difference and still can adjust preload. I ordered it from summit racing part number QA1-8S450. I did notice once I was setting the bike on the wheels the top of the shock would slightly bind so I did have to shave about 1.5mm of the top of the shock. Picture is a little deceiving but the lower side of the bracket does not touch the shock body. I spaced out the muffler and loosened the header and ajusted as far as I could and this was as close as the shock res gets to the header. I will probably wrap this section of the header just to keep the heat down. Did a little trimming to get the guard to sit flush Adjustments may be a little tight to do on the fly but at least its there and I have small hands haha the bottom rebound adjustment is very easy And just to show it does sit a little higher in the rear. Thats all that I have done for now. I have BBR crf150f fork springs and ordered a set of race tech cartridge emulators based on a previous members notes they had. If it all fits when it gets here I will post more details. Just FYI the rear shock is definitely going to need a revalve as it is very springy, even with the damping maxed out, similar to how it is if you cranked the preload way up on the stock shock. Not really a surprise considering the spring rate is exactly double the original so long term I may but the gold valves and play with shim tuning as I always wanted to learn how to do valving.
  12. Yea ive realized they may be the same base but so many parts are different, its a little disappointing because it would be great if you could build a 230cc drz125 with all factory suzuki parts or whatever combo you want, unfortunately not the case. Oh well. One bike that I had at one point that was a clone was the Qlink xf200 and that was essentially, from what ive read and seen by looking at it, was a drz125 engine with estart and big bore/stroke to a 200 so cams and exhaust from the 200s bolt in. Just an interesting fact. As for the 65sx shock ive got it bolted in and the spring I found fit(maybe a little stiff for my weight as I only weigh 120lb but its all that fit without custom). I just need to compile all the pics and info either tonight or this weekend. The damping seems a bit light(to be expected as I doubled the spring rate) but I think it has good potential and is very simple swap. I am waiting on the front end parts to arrive so I can see how it rides bc the front was way to soft compared to the rear and rear raised up about an inch from less sag. I ordered race tech emulators and BBR HD crf150f fork springs so it should level out nicely and be a nice tunable setup. Again I will post more details in my other thread once this all arrives.
  13. I did this about 1.5 years ago, I was mainly curious about the kickstart shaft and it is the same, the only difference was the actual gear. I know these questions get mentined time to time so I didnt mind getting all the parts and getting pics so people interested in the swap could find the general questions. All together I spent less tha $150 bc I source all used parts. I have not heard about the decomp cover though what is that from? I havent had trouble starting it with the kicker but it doesnt hurt to know if I do mod the engine(looks like the big bore kit group buy is not going to happen though) Edit: looks like the lt230 has a decomp cover so I am guessing that is the cover you are referencing, never would have though of that
  14. Yea, its not a difficult job but for most people its not really worth the effort. The riding I do i need to have it as I often times am in situations where if my battery dies the only way I get out is a 4 wheeler towing me. It has saved me twice already after dropping the bike and it flooded and battery died before I could get it going again. Glad to help, sorry to be the bearer of bad news
  15. You have split the case no matter what. As for ordering parts I think the US dealers can get parts because they are the same as the trojan. Just look up the 80s dr200 parts and some places will have them in stock. Easiest is to just wait and find a used complete kickstart set on ebay. Here is the thread I started on this and added a few pics yesterday. hopefully this helps a little