mr.skywalker

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About mr.skywalker

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    Mississippi
  1. Well I had the chance to ride yesterday. Unfortunately with having the rear rack removed the rear fender does not have any support to keep the fender from flopping down. I did not realize this at the shop bc when all the bolts were tight the fender did not have much play and on the test ride on the street there wasnt much in the way of high g forces to bounce the rear end. So today I used some spare aluminum I had picked up hat Home Depot a few months ago and made a fender support. The goal was to keep it light and I achieved that pretty well and it used the OEM hardware. The other side was 0.09 lbs FYI On one side I made it into a bit of a handle as I did like that feature on the original rack. Considering how much easier this aluminum flexes compared to the oem rack it may not work well but it only took an extra 5 min to add the bends For the ride report: I did get about 45min of riding in despite the floppy fender(would actually hit the tire so I was a little concerned it might damage it) That being said I didnt push crazy hard and I wasnt with the group(all ktms that move pretty good but Ive kept up with them in the past on this bike it just was sketchy at time). The front end felt AMAZING, very good feedback though chop/roots, no nose diving into corners with heavy braking and never and never felt like it I was going to bottom out in G outs or a few jumps I did on the pitbike track. The rear end felt surprisingly good. The initial travel felt a little busy when cornering but it handled the heavier stuff well. Even with it being busy I dont think it was any worse than stock, the front was just so planted it made you realize the rear was quite as stable. On the harder hits it felt the damping on the rear was pretty good and I guess that has to do with the PDS shock secondary damping. I do have the rebound set to the stiffest setting and it would need a little more to make it perfect so its not really adjustable at this point. I may just try running it like this for a few rides before I decide if its worth investing anything else in the rear end as that would be great if its was that cheap of an upgrade where for most riders just the spring is all you need. The exhaust did slightly contact the reservoir a few times so I will be adding a little exhaust wrap to keep the res temps down a bit.
  2. Well mine measured 32.5" so I guess the older dr200 did have longer forks. good to know. in your picture the front does seem to sit a bit higher so that makes sense.
  3. Interesting, if you measure and post the length I'll do the same so we can at least have a comparison. I am happy with the ride height now as the front was just sagging from the light springs. it looks pretty even now that the rear has the right amount of sag.
  4. Well yesterday the last parts came in to do the forks. Talked with Race Tech and if you want to get a set of cartridge emulator gold valves part number FEGV 3301 fits the dr200 forks. For settings the info they sent me for a baseline from their previous notes start with the blue springs at 2.5 turns of preload and 10wt oil. Fits perfectly Before drilling the rods After drilling 4 additional 8mm holes per instructions Stock dr200 springs vs new BBR HD crf150f All finished up. Seems pretty well balanced after backing the rear preload back a little. Just need to have a dry week here and I can get out and test it. If you arent very heavy or too aggressive it should be a sufficient improvement, hope it work well and its nice actually have tunability. For a side note on weight reduction I did take of the rear rack and heavy steel headlamp mount. The headlamp assembly weighs right at 3lbs and the rear rack was 2.5lbs. I am looking to try and find a light weight light I can fab to fit the factory plastic housing that will shave some weight there and not spends alot of money. That said if you were just riding trails I am already over 10 pounds lighter and I havent even started cutting or removing actual wires and switches. I may get down to where all safety switches and turn signal harness are removed. Basically all the bike will have is the start button and light switch for high/low beam and horn( it may not be required here but im looking into this). I am looking go with a lithium battery and change out the large bulky tail light assembly as well. This will probably be last update for a while as I cant really do much else until i do some testing and the weather here has just make it impossible to ride the trails
  5. Here is a few pics of the muffler. If anyone is interested in it let me know, has a the smallest quiet insert and spark arrestor. I want to go to a FMF Q4 so I'd be open to trades plus cash on my end.
  6. Ok, so I just have been putting off posting this bc ive been so busy with work and other projects. So for the spring I have a 450lb/in spring where stock is about 410lb/in so its a pretty significant difference. Its about 1 inch shorter but the threads can make up for the length difference and still can adjust preload. I ordered it from summit racing part number QA1-8S450. I did notice once I was setting the bike on the wheels the top of the shock would slightly bind so I did have to shave about 1.5mm of the top of the shock. Picture is a little deceiving but the lower side of the bracket does not touch the shock body. I spaced out the muffler and loosened the header and ajusted as far as I could and this was as close as the shock res gets to the header. I will probably wrap this section of the header just to keep the heat down. Did a little trimming to get the guard to sit flush Adjustments may be a little tight to do on the fly but at least its there and I have small hands haha the bottom rebound adjustment is very easy And just to show it does sit a little higher in the rear. Thats all that I have done for now. I have BBR crf150f fork springs and ordered a set of race tech cartridge emulators based on a previous members notes they had. If it all fits when it gets here I will post more details. Just FYI the rear shock is definitely going to need a revalve as it is very springy, even with the damping maxed out, similar to how it is if you cranked the preload way up on the stock shock. Not really a surprise considering the spring rate is exactly double the original so long term I may but the gold valves and play with shim tuning as I always wanted to learn how to do valving.
  7. Yea ive realized they may be the same base but so many parts are different, its a little disappointing because it would be great if you could build a 230cc drz125 with all factory suzuki parts or whatever combo you want, unfortunately not the case. Oh well. One bike that I had at one point that was a clone was the Qlink xf200 and that was essentially, from what ive read and seen by looking at it, was a drz125 engine with estart and big bore/stroke to a 200 so cams and exhaust from the 200s bolt in. Just an interesting fact. As for the 65sx shock ive got it bolted in and the spring I found fit(maybe a little stiff for my weight as I only weigh 120lb but its all that fit without custom). I just need to compile all the pics and info either tonight or this weekend. The damping seems a bit light(to be expected as I doubled the spring rate) but I think it has good potential and is very simple swap. I am waiting on the front end parts to arrive so I can see how it rides bc the front was way to soft compared to the rear and rear raised up about an inch from less sag. I ordered race tech emulators and BBR HD crf150f fork springs so it should level out nicely and be a nice tunable setup. Again I will post more details in my other thread once this all arrives.
  8. I did this about 1.5 years ago, I was mainly curious about the kickstart shaft and it is the same, the only difference was the actual gear. I know these questions get mentined time to time so I didnt mind getting all the parts and getting pics so people interested in the swap could find the general questions. All together I spent less tha $150 bc I source all used parts. I have not heard about the decomp cover though what is that from? I havent had trouble starting it with the kicker but it doesnt hurt to know if I do mod the engine(looks like the big bore kit group buy is not going to happen though) Edit: looks like the lt230 has a decomp cover so I am guessing that is the cover you are referencing, never would have though of that
  9. Yea, its not a difficult job but for most people its not really worth the effort. The riding I do i need to have it as I often times am in situations where if my battery dies the only way I get out is a 4 wheeler towing me. It has saved me twice already after dropping the bike and it flooded and battery died before I could get it going again. Glad to help, sorry to be the bearer of bad news
  10. You have split the case no matter what. As for ordering parts I think the US dealers can get parts because they are the same as the trojan. Just look up the 80s dr200 parts and some places will have them in stock. Easiest is to just wait and find a used complete kickstart set on ebay. Here is the thread I started on this and added a few pics yesterday. hopefully this helps a little
  11. Figured I would at least post what info I do have so far of this process, its been over a year and still havent got around to it.
  12. I have installed a kickstart on mine. I have a few pics of the process and what is needed in a thread on here. It is not for the faint of heart. I have installed a kickstart on both the dr200 and drz400 and the drz is much easier as it only requires removing the clutch but on the 200 you have split the cases. I started making a few documents of what can be used from a drz125 but havent got around to finishing, but basically you need all the parts from 80's dr200 and it will all be plug and play. I believe you can still order all the parts new as they are still used on the trojan in Austrailia
  13. Well the shock came in yesterday and Ive spent about 30 min looking at it and so far it looks really good for fitment. length was just about perfect, the bolt hole for the linkage fit perfect but the upper shock mount was a little wider than the shock but that may work an advantage in this case. My concern about the reservoir to exhaust was a slight issue as it did touch the midpipe when the muffler is secured. I did loosen up the muffler and simply moved it outward about 6mm and you see the gap opened up a bit so it think a little muffler and header adjustment can be done to add the needed clearance. I did also have to remove the lower bolt for the mud guard so that will probably need to trimmed to fit the reservoir. As for springs i tried to fit the dr spring but its about 10mm too long so I have ordered a 8" spring from Summit Racing that should fit and be about 10% stiffer than stock. If it works I will post the part number for future reference, should be here by Friday. BruceD_500 if you are interested in the muffler I can PM you some pics. Here is a link to the bike when i first installed it and I have put less than 200 miles on it since
  14. If you are looking for more pop the front wheel up power jetting and exhaust make this a whole new bike. I was running a 15/39(yes i went 6 teeth smaller on rear bc i was mostly highway driving) and after the jetting and exhaust I could clutch up the front in 2nd gear with without any trouble. I started a thread recently on suspension upgrades as this little bike has not let me down even when doing some ridiculous hill climbs. It just needs better suspension so its not bouncing all over the trails
  15. Well been doing a lot of research and turn out the 85 shock is almost 2" longer than the the dr200 but the ktm 65 shock is just about the perfect length(a little over 13.5" eye to eye which just so happens is exactly what the dr200 shock is ) Travel looks to be very close to the same as well. My concerns still remains about the reservoir/exhaust clearance and getting proper springs but I have an idea for an easy spring source. If all goes well should only be about $15 in custom work and revalve. Picking up a shock for $150(just ordered, revalve should be in the $150 range, and new spring about $100(free for me bc I have it laying around and should be close to the right rate). So all said and done should be about a $400 setup so at least its close to what the works performance was and should be of the same quality and easy to source. Hope this works haha BTW is anyone interested in a DG muffler? its too loud for my taste even with the quiet insert in.