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2wheelsrbest

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About 2wheelsrbest

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    TT Bronze Member

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  • Location
    Washington
  1. 2wheelsrbest

    72w LED light bar

    FWIW... This is an 18w light bar, flood beam, cheapo Kawell from Amazon that had side mounting studs. I have a manual/separate switch for it wired on it's own circuit with fuse and relay from battery. It works great! Pattern is good and even. Output blows regular headlight away. I just bought two LED bars similar to what the OP linked. I bought the 36w units, which are about 7" wide to use as auxiliary reverse lights on my Expedition. They work great for that purpose, but the bulky diameter of the finned housing would be really funky looking on the front of most any motorcycle. Especially if it was 30cm long. While I can't answer your power question, I would say that you could possibly be VERY happy with a much smaller light, which is more likely to fit your power availability.
  2. 2wheelsrbest

    Gear question

    DS riding season for me is somewhere between hot and HOT. While a mesh jacket may not be as protective as leather, I am much more happy to wear it and it is, therefore, safer than riding in a t-shirt. I have not had a mesh jacket with inner liner or outer cover that worked half as well as a larger windbreaker or rain jacket over the top. IF you do end up looking at mesh gear, try it on without goofy inner liner (fits better) and know that you will need to pack some other blocking layer for real weather protection.
  3. OK, now that event is over, I'd love to post up how it all went, what worked and what did not. I went into the event with... --a plan to simply follow the flagging, keep my head up as someone suggested, do more riding and less worrying about the nav aspects --a gps route of this year's course preloaded on my phone, which had not been an option on previous years --two rookie riding buddies who were happy to follow me and collaborate on getting un-lost, if needed At pre-ride meeting, they said, "Flagging this route (140 miles) would take us 4 days, with flagging, checking and removal. So...we didn't." As much as this shot a big-ass hole in my plan, I empathize with the all-volunteer promoting group. Maybe I can volunteer to flag it next year, right? Because the day was SO lousy, we only followed RC for about 30 miles of dirt before we all said F-it and headed back to the cabin with one of us pre-hypothermic. Though I did not go over much of the RC that day, I think I did learn a few things (at least about this event, THIS year). 1) The mileages between turns were reasonably high, so it wasn't too tough to follow RC. Turns were not in rapid succession. 2) The mileages were off considerably (!) and I WAS keeping track of that in my mind, as were my friends before self-preservation took precedence. Looking at the provided gps route after the fact, I could see there were some significant distances covering straight lines, when it was obvious the terrain would dictate a curvy line. I don't know for sure, but it is easy to imagine how a gps route and subsequent RC could be made from the comfort of one's personal computer. This would totally explain the slight and accumulating offages. The RC was thinking "as the crow/cursor flies", while my odo was tracking true ground distance. Much like the flagging issue, it sucks, but I can see the time savings for whomever had to do the job. To be fair, it could have also been poor satellite connection in the forest, though my cheap-o smart phone's gps was working fine over the route... I feel good, in that I WAS working the given RC in such adverse conditions. That was my main worry going into it. Dirt Hokie, I think you nailed it in your post. A roll chart isn't perfect and may be created by someone who doesn't need it anyway. I don't like the idea that I NEED a gps to do a ride like this, especially when a RC will be provided. No arguing that it is hugely helpful and comforting, though.
  4. 2wheelsrbest

    By passing starter relay

    So did you get your suspension figured out?
  5. 2wheelsrbest

    is this suspension related

    String alignment--I'd look it up and do that to rule out an obvious (and simple) misalignment of the wheels. You can't always trust the marks on the snail cams at rear axle. As vital as good alignment is, it is not something that would change when warmed up. Ditto the head bearings. They don't spin enough to generate any heat and only warm up from radiant engine heat or sunshine. Tires and pressure, however, will change as they warm up. You might say the pressure is perfect, but TRY more or less air to to see if there is any change. I also didn't see you confirm if it always pulls to one side or if direction of pull is random. If it is always the same, I'd bet it is more an alignment issue with axles, swingarm or fork assembly--things that don't move/rotate once assembled and riding. If it is variable, I'd go with tires or head bearings. Have you changed the oil in your forks or checked the levels? Gross imbalance of level or an internal problem could cause a handling issue, though it should always be to the same side. There are very few suspension/handling pieces that generate appreciable heat when riding, aside from tires and shock internals. As you insist the problem only occurs after some riding, I'd give those another solid look.
  6. 2wheelsrbest

    is this suspension related

    Initially, you said front and rear wheel were in line. Did you check this via string test? To be clear, it does not always pull to the same side, correct? You are saying it pulls to A side, rather than stopping in a straight line, but the side it chooses is random. If your answers were yes and yes, I would... --double check that head bearings are properly adjusted and smooth. Too tight, too loose or too worn could prevent normal straight line stopping. --try higher tire pressures to see if there is any difference good luck!
  7. 2wheelsrbest

    How-To Question--Boots and Knee Guards

    Ok, thanks for the replies guys. I made sure Epic guards were adjusted, tightened the boot buckles a bit more and tried them on again. Pain immediately, so I began digging down inside the boot to see what was up with the guard (which hadn't moved down a bit yet). Discovered that each boot has this lump of extra padding that is rubbing me wrong. Pic shows inside of left boot and lump of material. This hits me at 2 o'-clock on my left ankle about 2" above my ankle bone. Right boot is same. This lump is right between the flap's plastic shin guard and the inner ankle armor piece, exactly where boot hinges when I walk. The rigid plastic boot armor forces the leather to flex in RIGHT at the place this extra lump of dense padding is = the perfect storm for rubbing me wrong. So, my question has changed to... Do I carve away inner liner/padding to create clearance? Do I med tape a chunk of padding to my ankle? Anyone ever at a long event that required creative thinking for boot fit issues? I know that new boots are always an option, but aside from this issue, the boots are excellent. Ideas?
  8. Sidi Vortice (?) MX Boots EVS Epic knee guards When I ride, my knee/shin guards creep down into my boot. I pull them up occasionally, but they always end up sliding down--gravity. Problem is, the lower edge of guard starts digging into my shin when this happens. I tightened up all the straps on my boots a bit to help hold guard in place and give guard less room to slip down into. Still happens. Anything I can do? Am I missing something? Pro tips? I have only gone on a couple rides with these new EVS guards, which I like. Still, they have the same problem as my older, super-basic Fly knee guards and SixSixOne guards that also had strap above knee cup to help hold in place. Maybe it is just the way it is. Just finally getting around to asking for opinions about it.
  9. ob1--Thanks for the advice. I think I am taking the RC too literally and need to ride with my head "up" a bit more, looking for flagging, tire tracks, dust, etc.. In many cases, my undoing has been when turns show up in quick succession, in really dusty conditions in heavily ridden areas. Probably a tough one for anyone, really. Guess I could rely on the flagging more in those circumstances, too. 211--I think I need to find some brighter friends! What does your RC say? I dunno, let me dig it out of my backpack... What does your odo read? 8,367. Perfect. I was just following you! Did you bring any water? I'm thirsty. I should take some of my new riding buddies up to the old course with copies of the roll chart and see how we do by ourselves with no traffic/pressure. Dmouse--you touched on my point exactly--There must be a methodology to using a RC that I just don't understand yet. I know events like this took place decades before GPS became common, so they are not mandatory. I also don't think that the guys leading the pack are staring at a gps, either. They may simply be relying on flagging to get them where they are going and seem fast until they become lost (if it should happen). I don't trust the flagging 100%, however, because there are random flags for other things out there in the woods, too, even though organizers try to color code the route. Maybe I just tell the guys that join me for this ride "Ok, I am following the flagging today. You just keep up. If we get lost, we all get lost together. Go!"
  10. I have ridden three DS events and have had my roll chart in my holder ready to go on each of them. I understand how they are supposed to work, but I need some suggestions on how to use them in actual practice. On paper, they are pretty simple. Go to here, turn this way, go straight, stop, checkpoint, reset odometer. I get all that. When I actually try to go use one, one of the following happens. --I look at the RC religiously, worry about watching my odometer, ride with head down, ride ridiculously slow, stress out and STILL miss turns. --I follow someone else (A group? B group?) and hope I don't lose contact with them. Maybe I am welcome, maybe not. Today, I bought a Forest Service map with all the road numbers on it and got out the RC from the last ride (Dirty Face DS, Leavenworth WA). I could piece together some of the route while relaxing at my dining table, but STILL struggled to draw a complete, continuous loop following the directions. Very frustrating. So, I need some feedback or adjustment of my expectations from the TT crowd. I am not so worried about getting lost, as I am confident I can backtrack to a known point and most all of these events are on fairly familiar territory. I just can't read/follow/comprehend the route instructions well when on my bike. I don't want the frustration on an otherwise fun day. I also don't necessarily want a GPS for this. Others seem to be able to do just fine with RC. Do I... --just keep being friendly, find a group and follow them? --keep an eye on the flagging more than the roll chart? I really thought that with my new map showing the extra road number extensions (5200-XXX) I would be able to follow the RC on paper. When I could not, I begin to wonder if RC was even accurate. Could be a typo. Who knows? I understand that every event and organizer is different. What I'd like to hear from more experienced RC users is how you "think" about things when you are out in an event. Are you following the RC to the letter? Are you only referring back to it after the flagging, tire prints and cloud of dust disappear? Help me realign my expectations or mentality before I hit the next event mid-June. This year, I have a couple guys that are newer to offroad riding that want to do an event with me. I'd like to have my $#!t somewhat together, as I may be voted the leader. I am totally confident that we could go have a great day of riding, not get too lost and all get home ok, BUT the point of doing an event is to follow the prescribed route. I'd love to be somewhat competent this time around. Thanks in advance
  11. 2wheelsrbest

    Wheel hop Front

    Every once in a while, a tire iron gets lost inside a tire. Just sayin'
  12. 2wheelsrbest

    Help with Valve Clearance/Adjustment

    Couldn't find the diagram I envision in my head, but...are the cams reversed? IN -EX? Any other marks on the cam gears?
  13. 2wheelsrbest

    Exhaust valve clearances are getting to their limits

    If it eases your mind, put paint marks all over the timing chain and cam gears so you know everything voes back together in the same spot. Tension loose timing chain with a bungee cord to keep it from coming loose on crank end. Not that hard. Daunting the first time, sure. Find a gkod manual and follow the instructions. You will be fine. Waste of training if you don't try!
  14. 2wheelsrbest

    Las Vegas and the DRZ

    I'd just stop by the licensing office and say, "I just moved back". If there are any special requirements or testing needed, they will tell you. A street legal bike just needing new plates and an address update should be pretty simple. I imagine LV/NV to be pretty lenient, as I don't consider them on the cutting edge of environmentalism. I could be mistaken. I am in WA, so WTF do I know?
  15. 2wheelsrbest

    Shimming valves

    Yes. My ZRX and DRZ use same shims. I just figure out what I need, go to local shop and buy from their big kit. $3-4/shim for a couple shims every couple years. Not worth buying the kit for me.
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