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Tro1086

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About Tro1086

  • Rank
    TT Silver Member

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Wyoming
  • Interests
    Stuff, and things.
  1. Tro1086

    Will crf250x fit crf250L

    No pretty much nothing from Xs or Rs fit the L, its a whole different bike.
  2. Tro1086

    EJK on stock bike

    I say if you get an EJK for a stock bike atleast remove the snorkel and backfire screen along with it. They are free mods and will help power and response more than just an EJK. I dont think an EJK makes enough difference on a 100% stock bike to be worth it. Thats why id do the free little intake mods along with the EJK. A 13T sprocket would really be a much better mod than just an EJK on its own. The 13T would give you much more noticeable results and be much cheaper than the EJK.
  3. Yea its not that hard to take the plug out, dont be scurred.
  4. Tro1086

    Stator Damaged

    The point of turning the engine over is to see if the flywheel is bent/not true, and has runout. Why cant you turn the engine over? Why does it matter if the bike is on its side? Turn it over with a socket and bar, not the starter. Take the plug out and it will turn very easy.
  5. Tro1086

    What do you do for a living?

    Diesel Mechanic. Was an Electrician for 6 years before that.
  6. Tro1086

    How do I prevent this from happening again?

    I havnt managed to do that to mine yet, but it has left a few scratches on the oil filter cover. And a skid plate wont really stop that situation. The problems Iv had with my brake lever are it bending the other way! One time I was riding in some nasty rutted out mud, very slow, lost the front tire and went down, less then 5mph in soft terrain, it bent the lever completely around to the foot peg, I was pissed. Luckily I was riding with a guy that had a buddy camped down the road and we were able to get an array of things to pry on it with, just to get it back somewhat into position, so I could at least use the rear brake again. That brake lever is hard as fu*ck to bend back into position also, it boggles my mind how it bends so easy from a fall in soft dirt/mud! I couldnt believe how hard that M Fer was to bend back, youd think it was made if hardened steel, yet it bends into a complete 180 and looks like a pretzel with the slightest hint of a fall. The fact it was so damn hard to even try to bend it back towards position is what really pissed me off!!! I do like the split hoses on the levers in the above post!
  7. Tro1086

    Bike 'revs out' in 6th gear

    Abusing the clutch means slipping the clutch, riding the bike around in high RPMs shouldnt matter unless the clutch is slipping without you knowing it. Abusing the clutch would be like if you held the lever partially pulled in a lot of time, i.e. "feathering" the clutch, like if you were crawling thru a slow part of the trail and were holding the clutch half way in, to keep the bike from stalling, but to also keep you moving, or if your giving it lots of throttle before you have released the clutch lever all the way, basically anything that would slip the clutch more than necessary, would be considered abuse. You should treat the clutch as an " ON" or "OFF" switch as much as you can, only feather it as long as you need to to get the bike moving, obviously you have to slip the clutch to get the bike to start moving, but your goal should be to slip it as little as possible, release the clutch as quickly as you can while still getting the bike to start moving smoothly, without jerking. Basically you want to spend the least amount of time possible between the clutch lever either being fully pulled in, or fully released. If you dont have the free play on your lever, like mentioned earlier, it means the clutch is always in a state of being slightly released, which means it dosnt have the clamping power it should, and it will slip easier, and lead to accelerated wear on the clutch. Basically your lever should feel sloppy for the first little bit of its travel, untill you take up the slack in the cable and begin to pull tension on the cable, that is the clutch lever free play. It means the cable between the clutch lever and clutch is not to tight and not always holding tension on the clutch release.
  8. I agree, unless your pretty experienced, (which if your asking how difficult the task is here, then i assume not very experienced, no offense.) Then your probably better off taking the diff out and taking it to your friend/someone and seeing if they will give you a little better deal on the job. Its not that the job is that hard, its just one that requires knowledge and experience on how to do it properly, and not end up causing yourself more problems. If you think its something you really want to do yourself, then do some research online, google, youtube, of the procedure and what all it entails, and then decide if you still want to do it. Only you can answer the question of how "tough" you think it is, none of us know your skill or experience, or size of your tool collection.
  9. Tro1086

    Suzuki RM-E 125/250...

    We never get the good stuff in 'Merica.
  10. Tro1086

    2011 kx250f unstoppable?

    The reason you didnt have metal in the oil is because when you run an engine out of oil it tends to melt and distort the metal, not turn it into shreds and particles. The metal in the oil will start comming later as the engine eats itself from the inside because now all your bearings are &%$#@!ed.
  11. Tro1086

    broken cam chain

    It dosnt look like any valves touched the piston. What you see on the piston looks like its part of the casting, supposed to be there. Clean up any junk/broken parts that might of went around the motor, and put a new chain on, and it looks like youll be good.
  12. Tro1086

    What did you do to your crf250l today?

    I love the way that rack looks, but I wouldnt buy one because of the direction the RotoPax thing mounts. I have my RotoPax mounted the other direction and it makes a 1 gallon can fit the rack perfectly. If you mounted a RotoPax on that, the direction they have the bolt holes, even the small one gallon can would hang off both sides. The way mine sits, the can is actually narrower than the rack, and only hangs off the back slightly. Id much rather have it hang off the back then the sides, my rotopax can already has gouges in it from the bike falling over, and if I mounted it the direction this rack is, it would stick out even farther than it does now. You dont want your RotoPax to be sticking out so its the first thing that hits the ground when the bike falls over. I dont understand why they would design the rack with the RotoPax to mount this way, baffles me. They should of atleast designed it so you can mount it both way, but if you drilled your own holes in the center cross piece, I think it may be back a little further than desired, seeing that the center of their holes is further forward on the rack.
  13. Seems like casting another couple Oz's of metal into your parts would be better than throwing 2% away thou, lol. Honda should of thrown your cams away also, haha. Pretty bad to see that get thru quality control, all the way from the factory where they cams were made, to where they were installed in a motor. I mean if those pass QA, Id hate to see the ones that dont! Do they only fail QA if the grinding machine can never come in contact with the cam? haha
  14. Tro1086

    Risers and bar size

    For most people, on this bike some rise is good, if you ride offroad, it makes standing up feel so much better, stand up riding with the stock bars just feels awkward and uncomfortable. Im on the short side, about 5'8 ish, 30" inseem. I have the same 2" Rox Risers as Gnath has, but I did that with bars that are equal to, if not even taller than stock bars, so I have 2 inches plus of rise, and I still dont feel like the bars are to tall, even when sitting down, but stand up riding when on the trail, etc, feels 10000 times better than with the stock bars. I would say definitely go with 1-1/8" bars, and the easiest way to do that is with the ProTaper, or equivalent, fat bar adapters, like Gnath kindly posted above, they only add 3/4" of rise. Thats the cheapest and simplest way to go to fat bars, with the least amount of rise. The KTM bars may just mean they are a KTM "bend". You will see other bars as being YZ, KX, RM, etc etc bends, this just means its the bend that these bikes use stock, dosnt mean its special and only fits that bike. Then you will see bars like KX High, Mid, etc. This means KX bend, but taller. The bar I chose was a ProTaper Contour fat bar in CR Mid bend. They have fairly similar geometry (pull back, sweep, etc) to the stock bars, but are slightly taller. I thought the geometry of the stock bars seemed good, I just wanted more height to make stand up riding do-able, more better. I pretty much couldnt stand up ride with the stock bar setup, just felt horrible. Now stop thinking so hard and go pick ya up some fatties!!!!!
  15. Tro1086

    2015 250X on sale soon!

    If they would make the CRFX with fuel injection and a wide ratio 6 speed I would definitely buy one. There to expensive to still have a carburetor. Id also like it to come street legal out of the box like some KTMs, without adding a ton of weight and nonsense like the CRFL. But I dont want to ask to much from honda all at once, baby steps. I love my CRFL but its so damn heavy, its more of a street bike in dirt bike clothes. But its still a very fun and capable bike, especially for the price tag. Iv put nearly 6000 miles on it it just over a year.
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