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Not_Bob

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About Not_Bob

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    TT Newbie

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    California
  1. Yes, I agree. The bike (which I just bought) is street legal in California, it is plated and registered and just renewed to may 2014. I have not had a chance to see if it has break lights yet, and not sure how it could have been plated without turn signals, unless the previous owner took them off. So, are you saying the best approach is to upgrade the stator? Should I find a used stator off of the street version, will that just fit on the dirt version? My understanding of electrical wiring is limited, but it seems the more I dig into this the more confused I get. Part of that confusion comes from looking at Baja Designs dual sport kits, they make one for the dr350 that does not include a stator upgrade or battery, but has all the electrical components that a street version would have. So, how does their kit work on a dirt version with the limited wattage produced by the stator? I guess I'll have to call them monday and find out. My bike has the little black regulator just in front of the airbox under the seat. But in front of that there is another black box, about 3x2 inches, with 8 wires coming out of it, I'm trying to determine if that is stock for the dirt or an upgrade. BTW - where is the battery located on the street version?
  2. Thanks, The stock dirt version has a headlight and tail light, so the stock stator must be able to power those, right. All I really want to do, at least for now, is add turn signals. If I add a 12 volt 4 amp battery won't that be enough extra power to use the turn signals even when the lights are on? Obviously I won't be using the turn signals continuously like the lights, so I think it would be a small enough drain on the battery that it would recharge over time. But, do I need the VRR from the street version to add a battery?
  3. I have a 94 dr350 dirt version and I want to add turn signals and a few other electrical items. I'm putting a small battery in it and hoping that the stock stator will produce enough electricity to power everything like stock headlights, taillights, blinkers, horn, etc. My understanding is that with the stator I need to have a way to convert that to 12vDC to then charge the battery. I found the regulator/rectifier from a street version and wondering if I can just slap it on to my bike and hook a battery to it? BTW - Does the street version power everything from the battery and just use the stator to charge the battery, or does the stator power everything when running and use the battery when not running?
  4. I'm thinking about buying a 94 DR350 that has just come up for sale. My only concern is that it is not the factory street legal version but the dirt version that was made street legal and plated. As such it does not have blinkers (not sure how it passed street legal without), and no speedometer/odometer, which sucks because I do not know how many miles it has. And it is kick start. Besides these things what else does it not have that the street version has? And what does it have that the street does not? Also, it has a 425 big bore kit, which I really wish it did not. Are there any potential issues with that? Thanks.
  5. I've been searching and researching for a month and just when I thought I knew what I wanted another bike enters the mix. I'm 6'1" 175 and need a dual sport for commuting on a dry gravely dirt road and also on a paved road. On the paved road traffic flows at 60-65 mph so I want to be able to keep up. I was set to buy the KLR but was turned off by the low seat height. I need to stay at a price no more than $2000. Fuel economy is hugely important so would like to stay at a 250. I don't care about kick start, not sure why that is such a big deal for people, I guess if you're racing...? Here is the list of bikes I'm looking at with pros and cons: KLR 250 - Good reputation, good on dirt, can cruise at 65 without trouble, good mpg. Cons: low seat height, suspension too soft for real dirt riding. Is is possible to modify the seat height on these? DR 350 - Reliable, good price relative to the other bikes in list, good low end power. Cons: poor mpg, shaky at 65 mph, poor dirt bike. XR 250 - Good price, easy to mod. Cons: older model, low seat height, ? TTR 250 street legal version - Good reputation overall, good seat height, holds up at higher speeds. Cons: Highest price. If I could get a KLX 250 for $2k I would buy that in a second, but they are more expensive. I've seen a couple WR250F made street legal, but with only a 5-speed would not be good on highway. Need to find something soon and cannot decide. Currently looking at: 02 KLR 250 - $2000 91 DR 350 - $1900 94 XR 250 - $1600 00 TTR 250 - $2400 (hoping to get them down to 2k) I guess my biggest question is should I be so concerned about the low seat height of the KLR? Can I modify that? If so that seems like my best option between that and the DR and XR. I would go for the TTR if the price was not so high. Thanks. Any help is appreciated.
  6. So, I requested help on a dual sport (little off-road commuter) in another post and was advised on a few bikes. My choice comes down to: 2001 Kawasaki KLR250 - $1500 - 9000 miles, run well, but has a valve cover leak. 1997 Yamaha XT225 - $1300 - 6300 miles, runs well, and pretty clean with a few cosmetic blemishes. I checked out the Yamaha today, nice bike but as I'm 6'2 it felt a little low to the ground, and a bit short for me. I have not had a chance to check out the Kawa but checked specs online and the seat height is about 2 inches taller than the Yamaha. I don't suppose there is any way to raise the seat on the XT? I see they both have the same rear wheel size. Other than that any advice on which is the better bike and deal? Oh BTW - I want to throw this in the mix. I saw a nice looking 2004 Honda XR2000R for a $1000, the ad said can be registered for street use. so I started researching that option and saw the street legal kits and began wondering. Is this a path that would be serious work and headaches? I'm in California. Thanks.
  7. Thanks. I called the guy about the 2000 Kawa, he said it has a valve cover leak, but otherwise runs fine. Is that a big deal to fix?
  8. Thanks for all the feedback. I've been searching a bit more and came up with these bikes. Just wanted to know which the better deals are or if there are some I should stay away from. 93 Yamaha XT225 - $1500 - 26k miles but clean and runs well. 87 Yamaha XT350 - $1100 - 7k miles, good condition, no issues. 97 Suzuki DR200 - $1500 - 3k miles, good condition. 2000 Kawasaki KLR250 - $1500 - low miles, runs well. 82 Yamaha xt250j - $900 - I know this is a bit old, but it looks clean... low miles runs well. Thanks.
  9. BTW - I forgot to mention a very important criteria is that the bike be street legal, as I am going to be riding on a public street. Is the XR a street legal dirtbike?
  10. Wow, I'm suprised at the consensus, but it appears to be that neither of these bikes are worth buying as they are too old. Price is a significant factor for me, and this is not a daily commute so I don't want to drop a lot into it, but I'll keep looking. So, the Honda XR series would be good for what I'm looking for at a lower end pricetag?
  11. Looking to purchase my first enduro and found 2 bikes for under $1000 in the local classifieds. My use is for a commute on a dirt road. I'll probably never need to go faster than 60 mph, and my main concern is reliability, good handeling (safety), and fuel economy. I'm an old fart so I'm not looking for power on competition trails, this is just a commuter, but the commute road is rough, very dry dirt with lots of rocks (small and large). Which of these 2 bikes would better suit my needs: the 79 honda XL 185 (4-stroke) or the 79 yamaha dt 175 (2-stroke) Thanks.
  12. Thanks all. I've decided to go with a yamaha 2-stroke 500cc air-cooled snowmobile engine.
  13. It takes a lot of power to keep an airplane aloft. This is for a glider which has the best lift-to-drag of any plane, so it only takes 30hp to cruise.
  14. Excellent points. Did any of the earlier air-cooled engines not have the gearbox inside the crankcase? Or is there a way to seperate that. Also, in my reading I have found the powervalve type systems did not begin before the early 80's so maybe my best bet is a early (like 1980) cr500 that is air-cooled and does not have powervalve and can have the gears removed. I don't want an expensive rotax with the psru that I don't need. Remember this is not for the main drive, it will not drive the propeller and is only for charging the batteries.Thanks.
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