EVXR

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About EVXR

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  1. Same problem on all three bikes seems suspicious. Any chance you got a bad batch of gas that you are running in all three?
  2. No complaints on the TB kit thus far. We'll see how it holds up, though. Wasn't going to spend almost as much on a BBK as I paid for the motorcycle. Picked up new fiber/metal plates from local Big Red dealer and installed this morning. No more slippage. I'm using Rotella 15-40. It is JASO and MA rated. Run the same oil in my VStrom and it works great. I'm happy with the jetting at 38/98 running stock airbox/filter and Supertrapp exhaust. Sharky, this jetting combo should work for you.
  3. Tried the 105 and it runs worse with it. I get this staccato power delivery in mid and WOT with the bigger jet, but it is nice and smooth with the 98. Clutch started slipping today so I've already pulled it apart and hope that my local Honda shop has the parts in stock tomorrow. The friction discs were tired and with the bump in displacement, i think it couldn't hang on any longer.
  4. I'm running a 98 right now but will try a 105 over the weekend and let you know how it goes.
  5. Hi Sharky, Break in advice is similar to asking about what is the best oil to use - you'll get a whole bunch of opinions. The important points from the Clymer's manual are: -Operate the motorcycle while on flat ground. Do not perform the break in while riding in sand, mud or up hills. This will overload and possibly overheat the engine. -Vary the throttle position. Do not keep the throttle in the same position for more than a few seconds. -Start the engine and allow it to warm up. During this time, check for proper idle speed and leaks. -Break in consists of the motorcycle's first 15 miles. Nothing scientific here, but I haven't blown up the top end yet. Here's what I did with my TB kit: I did a couple of heat cycle just like you - started it, ran it for about 3 minutes, shut it down and let it completely cool. Next, I did a couple of down and backs on our little country road, making sure to go up and down the rev range rather than holding a steady rpm. Then I just went for it and started riding it without concern in the front pasture. No issues, no smoke. The grunt with the TB kit is really great - I've been riding it more than my kid!
  6. I've got the stock jets in there right now (38, 98, I believe) but I am going to up both to 40-105 and see what that gets me.
  7. Same problem with the 94 I just rebuilt for my 12 year old. A new clutch cable helped. I also adjusted the cable so the friction zone starts with the lever close to the grip. This requires some play in the cable which can be adjusted in via the adjuster at the clutch lever.
  8. Ok, time to call this project done. Taught the youngster how to ride with the clutch - mostly second gear starts and he is just staying in second for the time being. I did put a 15 tooth front sprocket on and I'm glad I did. I had to pull the carb again because idle was off - turns out the idle jet was clogged and the A/F mix screw was stuck/dirty. All seems good now. I can't comment on the durability, but the performance of the TB BBK is really good. No piston slap, no oil blow by, and the low-end grunt it very apparent. A few pics:
  9. It's alive! Fired right up after a couple of kicks. No more blue smoke. Did two heat cycles and bike runs great, idles smooth and even and throttle response is good. small gas leak at carb bowl was the only problem. Still have some clean up to do on the chain and brake/clutch levers. Also want to find a 15 tooth front sprocket. Should be able to let the boy ride it this weekend.
  10. Finished assembling top end today. Piston at TDC, cam lobes pointing down, cam sprocket with "O" indicator pointing to 12 o'clock. Motor back in frame. Just need to adjust valves and it will be ready to fire!
  11. Got the frame back from the powdercoater yesterday...I love powdercoat! For those who are thinking, "This guy could have bought a newer XR in really good condition for what he's dumping into this one," the point of this is to bring something old back to great condition and help my son learn what is involved - not to mention this will be a great bike to ride around our front pasture once it is completed. I'm looking forward to finally piecing this thing back together!
  12. Here is one method using thinner and boiled linseed oil: another using scraping and a heat gun:
  13. Would like to see your project. If nothing else, jump in here and post some pics! EV
  14. Took frame to powder coater today. Picked up the head from the machine shop last night - don't it look good? Refurbing other parts as well: fork boots (dirty and sun bleached, cleaned and used Black Magic Tire Dressing), side plates (painted using SEM plastic/flex prime and paint), exhaust (cleaned, stripped, painted with VHT high heat paint), head stem bearing (replaced loose bearings with All-Balls tapered bearing kit). Almost ready to start putting things back together!
  15. A few other questions/comments: How did you space the ring gaps, especially the oil rails (rings)? If the gaps are not space on the rails properly, I could see how it might be possible that your compression is good (if anything, too high) but oil could still be getting by the oil rails and burning in the combustion chamber. Did you check the ring gaps prior to assembly and ensure they are within spec? As far as the compression is concerned, did you have any work done on the head? is it possible it was milled down a bit, which could lead to higher compression? You can also increase compression if you run a thinner than stock base and head gasket, but you would probably be getting piston to valve contact in this case. Lastly, I was also wondering about assembly lube and oil from the assembly process and/or giving time for the rings to seat. At this point, if you haven't give the bike a good long run at full operating temp, you might just do so and see if the smoking stops...long shot, but might be worth a try. EV