wet_willy05

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About wet_willy05

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    Montana
  1. So....rechecked my timing and am 90% sure its timed right. the dots line up perfect and the timing chain is fairly new What i noticed earlier about my cams not spinning freely.. I think is the problem! If i tighten ONLY the back left cam cap bolt for the exhaust cam to 7ft/lbs my cam WILL NOT BUDGE. this tells me that the journal to cam cap clearance is dam near a negative number! Dont have plastiguage to check but pretty sure if i torque my cam caps on correctly they should spin freely....Like my front tire..... Right now i can get my intake cam to spin easier than the ex but its still not spinning super smooth. Im thinking that since this bike has been heated up a few times, and i ran it low as hell on coolant i warped my cam caps or my cams grew fatter??? I think why my bike is dying at start and low rpm is because the cams arent spinning completely free. Anyone have this happen? Advice/Ideas???
  2. so i replaced my stator and was getting good spark when i grounded the plug and kicked. my bike would fire up but only for a sec.....not idle, upon trying to give it gas it would kill it right away(quicker). i think maybe i timed one of my camshafts a tooth off. i need to check my decompression assembly when i pull my head cover again and re-time. i swore both dots were perfect . my cylinder/piston/rings/valves are straight! any other advice/options other than taking it to a shop and having them check my electrical? my timing chain has less than 10 hrs so i dont think it slipped when i got the bike hot
  3. Ok thanks for the tip ill look real close. Where is That detent wheel bearing at and is that all u had to do on your bottom end? I'm hoping its part of my clutch assembly because of some new tusk friction and steels I put in before this prob occurred....
  4. Cool thanks because the manual basically just shows it for what it is......a hole. Update: pulled the ig cover and inspected stator/flywheel. There were three or four small flakes of metal on the inside of the rotor that seemed to give the stator excessive wear on the coils. These little shavings and some sticky oil inside the flywheel looked like it blew the stator out. I don't have a voltmeter so just ordered a new stator from Steahly. It will be here Friday I'm hoping this has to do with the intermittent spark.. as to the few metal shavings I have NO IDEA . I'm gonna change the oil early and keep an eye on it
  5. Took the carb apart and the jets were clear. Me running the bike low on coolant caused the problem ....I'm going to check the stator and flywheel tomorrow but it really seems like a compression issue as my bottom end seems to turn over ok. Would a slight leak in a water pump seal cause a bike not to idle/run? I wouldn't think so
  6. Im going to redo my water pump seals and check the stator , would these explain the slight whirring sound and what would seem like a compression or air loss at low rpm? the bike will run rough if i get the rpms above idle for as long as i keep rpms up then die immediately if they get low again regardless of being in gear or neutral. could any of this be a bottom end issue, it never seized up but did about get ran dry on coolant. also quick question what is that hole on the kick starter side of the head...its centered on the side of the head. its not threaded but looks like it is pretty deep. Also is it typical for a stator to malfunction after getting a bike hot? Did notice a very slight rattle when i kick the bike over "sometimes"- i hope my connecting rod/bearings are ok
  7. Hi guys thanks for the help heres my problem, 06 yz450f maybe 10-15 hrs on cylinder/rings/piston/timing chain pretty low overall hrs on bike jd jetting 48 168 3000ft elevation 2 turns out About a month ago i was trail riding my bike and didnt realize for a duration of the ride that i was losing coolant through an o-ring under my y- tube. I run a boyeseen oversize cover/impellor which was keeping my bike cool before i ran it close to dry. My bike started acting like it was hot and a little boggy but still o.k. on power...what i also noticed while i limped her a small ways to the truck was a noticeable whirring sound like i was losing compression somewhere. My bike immediately died when i slowed down to a slow speed. Tried starting up after a coolant refill and she would start for a second, idle then die again. The bike kicked over fine and never siezed but was very hot.........Wouldnt idle Had a leak down test done by a local shop and they said i had a 30% roughly compression loss through intake valves.(this taking for granted the guy knew about the auto decompression) I had kept the valves in spec but decided that on a bike of this year (06) time to get my valves done - had kibblewhite valves and spring set installed got everything back and installed the head, set timing and set my valve lashes in spec, cleaned the carburetor including jet orifices and inspected my piston and cylinder. Looked good (approx 15 hs on new piston/rings/cylinder) cross hatching still evident etc... Buttoned the bike up completely and tried kicking her over: same problem as before! Bike idled for a second or two then die, and i got the rpm's high enough for her not to die and i rode it up the driveway....sounded pretty rough in spots and when i got back to the garage it died again at that low rpm I did notice on reinstallation that if i torqued the cam caps per manual order that upon torquing the last bolt, my cams would budge/spin even at tdc..... this was not the case before but i figured my caps got a little warped because of heating...i torqued them in a little different sequence to get them to spin freely Also noticed that when i had my head cover off and spark plug still in that when i built up compression with the kick start, i could hear air escaping somewhere and oil or coolant bubbling... Also there was a few drips of cooland leaking through the weep hole under water pump cover so perhaps i need new seals or i burnt up my water pump? Could this cause electrical error? Im not super experienced with symptoms after getting a bike really hot because ussually i make a habit of keeping fluids CORRECT. Any input would rock especially from grey thanks guys Will from Montana