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About rjg

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  1. rjg

    Adding a wedge to rear spring?

    Yes it will help but how much is anyone's guess.
  2. rjg

    Adding a wedge to rear spring?

    It seems your lock nuts are ceased. Unless you want to take a chance at destruction of your shock, you don't have many options. I have not seen a wedge used before but if your are desperate, then try it out
  3. rjg

    KTM Bladder Fork Revalve help

    I think your at a crossroad here fella. Dive into the suspension and start learning (it is an expensive hobby) or buy the service and experience of a reputable tuner.
  4. rjg

    KTM Bladder Fork Revalve help

    Switch the names around on your mid and base. A backer is the thick shim at the end of a stack. The clamp shims are your .3mm small OD shims. Do you have other shims available to you or were you planning on just shuffling what you currently have? That setup you currently have installed is very very soft. If you are not familiar with these term you could check out the restacker website as it explains these terms.
  5. rjg

    KTM Bladder Fork Revalve help

    Add shims below the backer on the mid valve to close up the float. If you still have the oem shim stacks in place then you must remove the 8mm x 6mm x 0.30mm on the mid valve compression side. It is hidden in the midvalve piston recess. This was not identified in the stack posted above but most ppl came to remove it anyways that is why it's not mentioned. I'd start by trying 14 clicks out on both compression and rebound and adjust from there. In my above post I meant 390cc max for oil in the outside chamber.
  6. rjg

    KTM Bladder Fork Revalve help

    Edit : All shims are 0.10mm thick unless specified All clamps 0.30mm thick Midvalve shims are defined by Qty x OD x 8mm ID x thickness. Base valve are defined by Qty x OD x 6mm ID x thickness.
  7. rjg

    KTM Bladder Fork Revalve help

    This is not my stack. It was posted in another public forum. It was volunteered by a professional tuner. It is copy and pasted. .4mm float w/1mm bleed hole 20x.15 2 18's 2 16's 11x .3mm clamp 16x.15 backer And a good BV for that is 3 24 17 2 22 2 20 2 18 2 16 2 14 11mm clamp no backer From personal experience: I have used it and liked it. I ride fast single track. 3rd gear mostly, mid rpm. I will also add that preload and oil level play a significant role. If you have oem spring perches start with oil level at 360cc (490cc max). I would suggest no less than 489mm (including spring and spacer, 492mm oem) for preload and no more than 495mm.
  8. rjg


    Give it 15 hours before the forks settle in. Your AER suspension is still tight. Judge from there.
  9. rjg

    High Speed Compression Damping

    Yes. Tighten up your high-speed adjuster.
  10. rjg

    Front end wash out

    Try simple things first. -slow down rebound on forks. -raise forks in clamps. -apply rear brake before front brake, we are talking fractions before. Use the rear end like a dragging anchor. Don't lock them up.
  11. rjg

    More fittings for Vac Pump

    How do you know?
  12. rjg

    Rear suspension issue/ no preload

    Oops delete
  13. Has anyone tried bleeding a rear shock fully submerged in oil? Seems like the easiest method to bleed a shock and remove the air versus all the other methods.
  14. rjg

    Fork tube polishing?

    Read the response by DaveJ. Extremely informative about this process. Since you are searching for friction reduction and from my own diy suspension experience, make sure you verify that your seals and bushings are adequate. Also importantly oil. They are not all equal. Pick an oil for outside chamber intent, more slippery the better. There are some ATF blends and motor oil blends that are superior to suspension liquids and can aid in friction reduction.