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About rjg

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  1. Give it 15 hours before the forks settle in. Your AER suspension is still tight. Judge from there.
  2. Yes. Tighten up your high-speed adjuster.
  3. Try simple things first. -slow down rebound on forks. -raise forks in clamps. -apply rear brake before front brake, we are talking fractions before. Use the rear end like a dragging anchor. Don't lock them up.
  4. How do you know?
  5. Has anyone tried bleeding a rear shock fully submerged in oil? Seems like the easiest method to bleed a shock and remove the air versus all the other methods.
  6. Read the response by DaveJ. Extremely informative about this process. Since you are searching for friction reduction and from my own diy suspension experience, make sure you verify that your seals and bushings are adequate. Also importantly oil. They are not all equal. Pick an oil for outside chamber intent, more slippery the better. There are some ATF blends and motor oil blends that are superior to suspension liquids and can aid in friction reduction.
  7. Cheaper version is put a copper washer in the the gear set driving the hub. I have done this umpteen times without issues. No need for a fancy tool.
  8. I bet you have the adjuster screw wound out to far. This is ok with the green spring because it's rate is high enough to hold the pv closed longer. When you installed the yellow spring and didn't adjust the screw it is now too little of a force and allows the pv to open way too early hence the bogging. Try reinstalling the yellow pv spring and screw the adjuster in 2 turns, you will probably start to eliminate the bog. Put in the red spring with the same screw position as when you started and your bog will be even worse. The engine will bog or go flat if the pv opens too early.
  9. There are bunch of guys on another forum that have reviews on the kreft revalve control. Most like it but the odd person here or there have trouble getting it dialed. Some of those people refuse or are slow to send it back for an inspection or adjustment but still complain. In general Kreft has a good reputation overall. There has always been a conversation about the prices of his work. Most likely you would be satisfied with his work. Majority are.
  10. There is always a risk with a front end slap down landing.
  11. Yes it will but I am not sure about the axel size. Your 12 has 26mm axel and the 15 has a smaller axle. If you keep your 12 wheel it's not an issue.
  12. Could someone post a pic of a ring shim. I purchase shims from mx-tech and wasn't aware that these existed.
  13. I suspect that many tuners use friction modifiers or syn blends. One that I have emailed back and forth with has never directly made the claim to use modifiers but says synthetic blends are common. He himself uses a synthetic blend for friction reduction. On another forum there is a long thread of a professional tuner discussing an optimized mix of synthetic blends. Since many of these professionals rely on these developed secrets for a living, they are reluctant to give up the recipe. Sometimes they "let the cat have a peak" instead of "out of the bag" if you buy their services but rarely will they give up the magic. In many other forums there is much discussion on suspension lubrication and many home tuners have gone the way of syn motor oil and or syn ATF. Some have used their favourite off the shelf fork oil product in the inner chamber and syn ATF or motor oil in the outter chamber. It is inevitable that the two fluids will mix eventually. Some claim to be able to see a film of oil on their stanchions but none consider it a seal leak. Like it should have been there the whole time. They are surprised by it at first. I would guess and I am totally guessing at this; that ATF and motor oil have a property that increases the molecular bond of oil to metal in comparison to fork oil. Like the lubing molecules of the syn ATF/motoroil stick to the metal better instead of flinging off, detaching, washing away. Seems like a property that would be a benefit to a transmission or engine. Ex. Pushing/rolling tennis ball on velcro. Friction modifiers might help. Like the tennis ball pushed/rolled down a slight hill on velcro. Of course I may be way out to lunch on this. It is totally possible that friction modifiers could also be counter productive via eat or inflame seals, degrade oil quality, effect damping after mixing, etc..... If any of you are aware please educate.