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fdme

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About fdme

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  1. Greetings boys and girls, I recently became the proud owner of my very own KTM! A 2009 690 Enduro R (sitting just under 10k miles). I have lusted after this bike for many years and finally had the extra cash to pick one up. However, it hasn’t all been good. In the very short period of time I’ve owned it, it has left me stranded 3 times! I have been playing catch up on all the previous owners maintenance that he had “deferred” and in the process, trying to accomplish the mods needed to make this rig more reliable. I’ve got to say that when it is running, it is probably the most fun thing on two wheels. It eases the sting a bit for when it breaks down. Anyways, I digress… lets get down to the current issue at hand. Current Problem: Click here to see a video of what it does Once the bike is fully warm, usually after I have been riding around for 1-2 hours, the bike will all of a sudden start to sputter (as if it is suffering from a fuel cut) and eventually after a few moments it will die altogether. The problem can be more quickly brought on if I am riding around town in stop and go traffic in the hotter part of the day. The bike will start right back up again but will generally sputter and die again within 10-30 seconds if you continue to ride around. Or if you start it after it initially dying and let it idle, it can idle for up to a minute before it dies on its own. The main thing to take away from this is that it only does this when it is really hot. (usually 4 bars on the gauge, that’s as hot as it ever gets with the fan switch mod) I should also mention that there is no blinking FI light. Secondary problem: Sometimes when you start the bike the dash will flash the wheel size measurement on and off: “LENGTH 1870” and a couple other symbols for a few seconds to half a minute before it displays the speed and all the regular information. I don’t think this is related to the issues but I thought I’d make mention of it. Current mods and notable part replacements: *Akro Slip on *K&N drop-in air filter *Power Commander V with tune for pipe and intake (from Rottweiler) *CA Cycle works Fuel pump (less than 200 miles on it… the OEM one died a couple days after I bought the bike) *New in tank fuel filter (bike does not have an inline filter) *New KTM injector (less than 100 miles on it… old one dribbled fuel causing hard starting after sitting) *RR Manual Cam Chain Tensioner *New NGK spark plug *KTM Twins Low temp fan switch *-15 Exhaust Rocker *Valves recently lashed and are in perfect spec *All the emission components are removed What I’ve done so far: *Completely disconnected the Power commander from the bike and ran the bike in stock ecu config- the problem still occurs *Checked all electrical connections and took apart the bike and went over the entire wire loom - no defects noted *Checked the battery with a multi meter with the bike off and running, battery appears perfectly healthy both static and running *Swapped back to the old leaking injector – problem still occurs *Disconnected the tip over sensor – this causes an FI light, the problem still occurs *Disabled the kickstand sensor with a dongle – the problem still occurs *Replaced the voltage regulator with a nice mosfet unit, didnt fix the problem but the regulator runs so cool now! *Put a meter on the ignition coil and spark plug connector, both of these values read almost dead nuts in the middle of the specified range *Put a meter on the stator connector, the manual says the resistance should be less than or equal to 1 ohm at 68 degrees F. Both my measurements read 2.1 ohms, but its also about 80-85 degrees in my garage... so I'm not sure if this is acceptable or not? Possible ideas: *Throttle Body Sensors/ blade gears - This is something I'm hesitant to get into since if I mess with it and take it to the dealer I wouldn't want them to blame me for messing with it. I only say this because my dealer told me that KTM has warrantied complete throttle bodies for 690's before- even on older bikes like mine. *Fuel pump – God forbid this would be the issue since I just replaced this… but it seems like the bike is suffering a fuel cut and I know that they tend to have issues when they get hot… but every time this problem has occurred I’ve had at least 2 gallons of gas in the tank… I also triple checked my hose routing when I installed the new fuel pump/ filter and made sure it didn’t kink as it went in. *ECU failure - just grabbing at strands here... maybe its fudgin up when it gets hot for some reason. _________________________________________________ Sorry for making yet another 690 thread… Thanks for reading this, ANY input is appreciated. I will try to keep this organized as I remember to add things so it is somewhat easier to read over. THANK YOU
  2. fdme

    how to clean titanium valves

    That new of a bike and it being KTM, I would assume they are Titanium. If they are the. yeah the wire wheel probably wasn't a good idea, as you can see in this thread you might get lucky and you might not. The coating is extremely thin and doesn't take much abrasiveness at all to remove. I would think a wire wheel would remove it pretty easy.
  3. fdme

    how to clean titanium valves

    If your clearances go out of spec your bike will definitely be hard starting or not start at all.
  4. fdme

    how to clean titanium valves

    Keeping a close eye on the valves is definitely the best you can do, like you said any sudden changes I definitely wouldn't ride it any more till you investigate. Glad it's working out.
  5. fdme

    how to clean titanium valves

    I can understand you not wanting to get new valves if you don't have to but it would be a shame if it caused more problems for you in the end. To be honest I wouldn't want to risk running the old valves if they were sanded by an abrasive enough to remove any coating. That being said I'm fairly certain they have to have a coating at least along the stem. I would really think the coating would completely cover the valve stem and the face. So it could be risky to run the engine after doing this as it could cause a rapid degradation of the valves that could lead to some nasty scenarios like dropping a valve and smacking the piston causing much more of a headache... I guess what I'm trying to say is why risk it, get new valves. You've got too nice of a bike to be running risks like that IMO. But it is your ride, hope you don't take this offensively, just trying to give some advice, as are the other people in this thread. Best of luck.
  6. Since you are going through with the rebuild I'll add something else I've discovered since owning mine. I will say the best mod I've done to mine is to replace the old carb with a later model 450 carb. The one I went with is off an 07 yz450 I believe you can also use the wr450 carb, even going from a 426 carb the difference is night and day. Even when it's not jetted properly it ran tons better than my old 426 carb jetted to a T. Best part is the 450 carbs can be had on eBay for 50$ and up if you find a good deal. (Oh yeah you also need the throttle cable for a 450) Anyways I'll stop rambling
  7. If you want something still street worthy but better offroad than the 250l and still not have to worry about maintenance too much... like someone else mentioned I would look again at the 690 enduro r. Seems like a lot of people do have good luck dual sporting the 500s it seems like an amazing bike and I would dream to own one.
  8. I hope your rebuild works out for you! I dumped a bit more money into my wr400 than I would've liked just to do the top end, if I personally have to do the bottom end I will cut my losses and sell the bike as is at that time. I don't think these old bikes are usually worth dumping that much coin into, not saying there is anything wrong with it though. And you will have the piece of mind knowing more what's been done to it.
  9. Just throwing this out there it probably doesn't apply to your bike (but maybe?), my wr400 has a smaller clutch plate on the inside or outside of the stack (can't remember which) basically when I put a new clutch in there I put the smaller plate on the wrong side of the stack which gave me the same exact issues you are having. I don't know how the ktms are but maybe check to make sure you have your stack assembled correctly if it doesn't have all the same size plates in it.
  10. fdme

    License plate bracket for 2007 WR450F?

    I also use the drc edge on the yz fender looks great and doesn't catch the tire if you put it back enough to where the tailight is flush with the end of the fender
  11. fdme

    450xcw vs 500xcw

    I have no personal experience with either bike but I will say I've read the majority of reviews saying the rider preferred the way the 450 rode better than the 500.
  12. fdme

    2000 WR400F Rear Suspension Help.

    I'm sure any 400 or 426 shock will fit yz or wr, probably 450's too if I had to guess? But yeah your best bet is too have the existing suspension rebuilt.
  13. fdme

    Best gearing for my bike

    I've found with the first gen wr's there is no perfect gear ratio for having good highway riding and actually having some good oomph down low in first. You either sacrifice higher top speeds (or deal with the screaming engine) but get sick bottom end in return. Or you gear it for decent cruising at higher speeds but then your left with having to slip the clutch more off the bottom and not having the oomph you before. I personally dual sport my bike a decent amount and right now with stock wheel and tire sizes I find a 15/50 is about the best compromise for me. It works pretty good even for steep hill climbs and deep sand and can cruise at 50 without ringing it's neck too badly. The problem with this is that it doesn't do either offroad or on road real great, it's just alright for both. But that is the beauty of dual sport, the art of compromise. Lol Ideally offroad I would like to have a 14 maybe a 13 up front to give it more torque especially in the deep sandy washes. And it was also nice on road when I ran a 16/42, but it was of course gutless down low. But I digress, to go back to your actual question ...If I had a supermoto setup personally I would probably run something like a 15/45. In theory this would let you cruise in a fairly safe rpm range at 55ish and would still have enough balls down low to have fun IMO. Check out gearingcommander.com if you wanna test out some sprocket combos.
  14. fdme

    '13 WR125 Makeover

    Nice looking bike, would almost make me sad to see it get dirty.
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