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About qadsan

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  1. qadsan

    Oil filter screen

    Yes, it's clearly pictured and mentioned on page 4-2 of the factory service manual.
  2. qadsan

    Oil filter screen

    The good news is that this screen is almost always perfectly clean in the dozens of motors I've opened, even after thousands of off-road miles.
  3. I believe this might be the same Damon Adams who also completely misrepresented, scammed and ripped off Techguy (another TT'r) and temporarily smudged the reputation of Off-Road.com, etc. Read these links for more info because it sounds like the same guy... First Link Second Link
  4. I believe this might be the same Damon Adams who also completely misrepresented, scammed and ripped off Techguy (another TT'r) and temporarily smudged the reputation of Off-Road.com, etc. Read these links for more info because it sounds like the same guy... First Link Second Link
  5. qadsan

    XR650R suitable for Dual Sporting?

    Kip, the XR650R is sold as a factory dual sport in other countries inlcuding Australia, parts of Europe, etc. They come fully equipped with a higher output stator, lights & indicators, different gearing, etc.
  6. Hmmm....could it be Ron Wilson Let's see, if everybody here on TT pitched in one thin dime ($0.10 cents) to the Ron Wilson XR650R fund, then he'd have a nice 650R with all the right mods, etc. What a story that would make! Ron Wilson wins the 1000 with the help of TT members
  7. qadsan

    large fuel tank questions

    There are many factors that can greatly affect your fuel economy such as gearing, gear choice, jetting, terrain, the way you manage the throttle, tire choice & tire pressure, engine modifications, rider weight, etc. If you're riding extremely hard / fast through terrain that's a bit technical with lots of turns where you're constantly off the gas and back to WOT and you've got your bike geared lower to take better advantage of the terrain, then you'll be lucky to get 20 MPG. With this mind, you'll get less than 80 miles from your Clarke 4.3 in the real world because you'll never be able to use all 4.3 gallons even with using reserve. You can ride that same terrain with the same bike and get ~30 MPG simply by taking things much easier. There's a HUGE difference in fuel economy depending on how you ride. If you're flat out hauling ass across terrain that's more open for long periods of time and doing well at managing the throttle, then you may get closer to ~30 MPG. With the right gearing and mods, you can count on 40+ MPG if you're simply cruising the highway. Getting 200 miles from your Clarke 4.3 is possible, but it's being a bit optomistic in my opinion. I used to monitor my fuel economy with the various bikes and it varied a lot with the varying factors. The 650R's I had setup for off road use would typically get ~26 to ~34 MPG for the type of mixed off road riding we were doing. My dual sport gets considerably better fuel economy, but the gearing, application, etc, is much different for this bike. Until you establish a baseline for your bike, I would play things conservatively and count on your tank giving you ~100+ miles of real world off road use and ~150 miles of on road cruising. From there, you can adjust your range upwards as needed once you get a better feel for your bike's fuel economy based on how its setup, the terrain your typically riding, etc.
  8. I've been using them for a couple years with good results and we use them on our XR's, WRF's, CR's and used them on our CRF's when we had them. For the desert I like the yellow elastomers cranked down a good bit and I use them with a spacer (washer) to bring the bar ends up a bit more, but I usually prefered the red elastomers for mx tracks. Both of my wrists have been broken multiple times in my life and I've had CT in both wrists along with the surgeries. Not everybody likes the Flexx bars and some people feel they make the bike feel to vague in steering, but it just takes a little getting used to and I really like them. They take the edge off the harsness, especially on the larger hits from sharper objects at higher speeds. I was thinking of including some KY, but I guess the vaseline will do! We've already sold three of our five 650R's and it would take a lot to get one of the last two from me, but $7.25K might do it and that also includes a fanny pack, spare tires, a complete maintenance history of leakdown numbers, oil analysis, etc . You'd have to pry the last one from my cold dead hands Seriously, just keep checking the recycler or cycle trader or eBay and you're bound to find one soon enough or find a dealer that buys leftover model years from auction and this should score you a good deal Is the 650R going to be another race tool for you or just for goofing? It would be fun to see you in front at some of these races on a 650R.
  9. A couple years ago, the DMV freely allowed XR650R's and other bikes to be converted for dual sport use. Things have changed in the last couple years. For a newer bike to be plated in CA, the DMV is supposed to visually verify that the emissions sticker on the rear fender specifies that the vehicle conforms to both EPA and CA regulations / emissions for On Highway use for that model year. Honda does not sell this emissions sticker. The Honda XR650R sold in the US does not have this sticker on it even though CA bikes are equipped with Honda's PAIR's emission equipment (hence the popularity of the smog block off kits for CA bikes). People are still getting their 650R's dual sported through various avenues here in California, but it's not a cut and dry process.
  10. Nice bike! I'll let one of mine go for $7.25K (estart, buddy pegs, flexx bars, fwd mount damper, suspension, CA street legal, low hours/miles, etc)
  11. qadsan

    Need your help...

    Nahhh, I'm just a former beerman who liked drinking beer when I used to travel to Oz, Euro, Spain, Brazil, Singapore, etc. The trips to Belgium, Germany, Holland, Netherlands, etc, were the best (lots of different beers!). At least once a year for ~10 years or so (many years ago), various companies in Oz would hire my engieering or troubleshooting services for critical intermittent problems that weren't getting resolved through normal channels. I used to do a bit of work for Hermes Precisa, Woolies, various mining companies, various manufacturing plants, etc, but I always looked forward to those trips because of the fantastic food & beer. I especially loved the surf clubs, the gambling, the outback, etc. And my wife always loved the firey Opals that would come home with me. I hated the flight over there and back, but I always got to spend a good 3 to 6 weeks there each trip. I miss the days of traveling there or anywhere for that matter, but one of these years when my kids have finished college, I've got to get back over there for some fun That would be one of my my guesses as well (mentiond above). The CDI's that I've seen in the past do look for specific conditions to be met before firing the coil. From what I recall (and it's been a long while), the threashold for the XR650R CDI is different than the XR400 & XR600 CDI's, but I don't recall the specifics. I think the engine has to spin at 900+ RPM in order to 'reliably' process the MPU pulse to fire the coil. That's one of several reasons why turning up the idle speed on some bikes helps out because if the engine speed momentarily drops (which is common on a cold engine when fuel is sticking to the cylinder walls instead of atomizing as it does in a warm engine), then the CDI may not pass the pulse from the MPU to fire the coil. If the engine idle speed is set too close to this threashold, then the chances of the engine stalling will increase. I don't recall, but it could be calculated and or instrumented. I believe the kick starter is capable of spinning the engine past 1,000 RPM, but I don't recall the number for certain. I do recall working with an XR400 that had an estart kit installed and the stock CDI would not pass the ignition pulse because the engine wasn't being spun fast enough with the estart. We ended up using an aftermarket CDI that would pass the ignition pulse from a lower engine RPM and that did the trick. Sounds like you've narrowed it down to just a few things and that the wiring is definitely good. That's quite a project you've figured out and put together. Very impressive
  12. qadsan

    Beware !!

    Too bad you had such a bad experience. I had just the opposite experiences with their Dakar kits. I had bought several of these kits for our bikes and they were a piece of cake to install. I've also installed several more of these same kits for other bikes for friends and for customers while moonlighting at a local shop. I only had one issue on one of my bikes that turned out to be a bad regulator/rectifier, but Electrosport quickly took care of it for me without any hassles. Out of all the kits I looked at when I made my purchase a while back, I thought this was the best kit out there at the time for 'my' wants / needs, but none of these kits I've seen are perfect (Electrosport, Baja Designs, eLine, Tick Dual Sport, etc). I ride one of my 650R's three to five times a week on the steet and haven't had any issues with my Dakar kit in the last ~2 years that I've been using it. Now that I've said that, it will probably go up in smoke tomorrow As far as getting keys made, I simply stopped at one of those little key shops in the parking lot on a corner block near my local Autozone and they made me spare keys for my Electrosport Dakar kits right then and there without any issues. The keys are a little longer than stock, but they work just fine. If you want to scan one of your keys into a pic, I can tell you if the keys you're using are different than mine. I can also take your pic to the key place near me since I ride by their several times a week and and see if they have more key blanks. If they do, I can pick some up for you if you want to pay for the blanks and shipping.
  13. qadsan

    Need your help...

    Do you know anyone with a scope? If so, then look at the waveform from the output of the magnetic pickup sensor when cranking it by hand. Now look at the output when cranking by e-start. If they're the same, then you move up the line. If by chance there's lots of noise in the MPU signal when cranking by estart and the signal is clean when cranking by hand, then you you need to figure out what's causing the noise (i.e. bad ground, starter, etc). Look at this same signal as it enters the CDI. It should look exactly the same as it was off the MPU. If it's not, then you've got an issue in the wiring between the MPU and the CDI. If everything looks good up to this point, then about the only things left are the output pulse from the CDI to fire the coil and the signal from the coil to the spark plug. Compare the outputs from cranking the bike by hand and from the estart to see if they look the same or if they differ. Or just bring the bike over to my place and I'll scope it out for you if you bring the Tooheys
  14. qadsan

    Need your help...

    If you're able to start the bike with the kick starter, then it tells me that your pickup, its gap and the associated wiring to the CDI is good. If it works from the kick starter, then it should also work from an e-starter. If you have access to a scope, all you need to do is make sure you're getting an input to the CDI from the MPU (magnetic pick up) and have another channel watching the output. If you're getting an input that looks normal, then the issue lies either with the CDI or something in the e-start kit or your wiring is killing the input to the CDI. Here's something to try. You've already checked for spark when kicking the engine over, but I'll bet you were turning the engine over at a normal speeds while kicking the lever. Now try this same test, but kick the engine over slowly. Do you still get spark when kicking the engine over slowly? If you do not get spark when kicking the engine over slowly, then your CDI is filtering the input signal and needs the engine to spin at a minimum RPM before it pulses the ignition coil. If this ends up being the case, then you'll need to either spin the engine faster or get an aftermarket CDI that will trigger the ignition coil at lower engine speeds. It could be as simple as your starter isn't getting enough juice to turn the engine over quick enough.
  15. qadsan

    Malcolm on a Honda commercial

    That was GREAT!