jjktmrider

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About jjktmrider

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    Male
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    Wisconsin
  • Interests
    quads, bikes and offroad

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  1. Maybe ask here as well for a little wider audience , http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/klx650-riders-unite.159970/ .
  2. Yep , 130/90/18 -T63 rear and 3.00-21 Kenda Big Block front . .
  3. From other forums I believe most use DRZ400 shocks as a replacement , there is a wide variety for that model. I have a fully adjustable Works shock for one of mine to install sometime that was made for a KLX "C" so no need to try another one unless I decide to do it on my other KLX.. .
  4. The thing I noticed with mine is going too much higher gearing for the road will bring the bottom up a bit too much for technical riding . Shame that even with 6 gears the spread is so close that a person can''t have both ends very good , these motors don't like short shifting and need to be above 4200-4400rpms(at least mine is) . Be nice to have an aftermarket option for widening the gear ratio some . I just tried 14/43 and it a decent compromise , 5200rpm @ 60mph . .
  5. Your into Beta and KTM/Husky territory as far as cost put into a bike , I'd go with a 350RRS Beta before sticking that much coin into a WR ( at the point of doing the motor also) and have the lighter bike with even better suspension . The Wr is a nice bike , not knocking it , just looking at cost VS what else is available at that same price, maybe even cheaper at this point . .
  6. I ride all winter , that means -15ºf at times . Till last year I never used heated gear , but getting older I bought a First Gear jacket and it's great . Biggest thing is the elements in the arms , that was the part getting cold on me the worst . I used to just wear my Reima snowmobile jacket and three layers of sweat pants under windpants , much warmer than jeans . This year I plan to experiment with grips and maybe pants but as stated the output of the stators is getting close on some of mine . My TE won't handle the jacket already so looking into a bigger stator for it . The other bikes I put all LED lights on so it free'd up a lot of juice. I also buy bigger batteries to handle extra draw and put the bikes on chargers over night. .
  7. I've been using the original beads in my bikes for quite a few years now , have them in my trucks tires now as well and a guy at work put them in his cars , they do work. Usually 2oz front, 3oz rear is more than enough , I also pour some baby powder in with them to act as a sort of lube , same as the outside of the tube inside the tire. I've found they work good up to a certain point , if a certain tire would need a couple ounces they can't balance that out, maybe nothing can . I have a rear IRC GP110 that has 4ounces in it and it still bounces horribly by 60mph. That is the only one I've had them not work on though , all others are good . Those were the bigger beads that wouldn't fit through many steams(about .04"-.05" diameter) , I had to mildly drill the center out some tube stems and feed the beads in painfully slow , these new ones are easy . I have just one set now with the smaller ones , I almost think the bigger size would work better , but can't say for sure . Pre-loaded tubes is a nice option. .
  8. I've had a set of the originals on one of my XT's I built about 3.5 years ago ,just before they closed down, they're still working good , even had the bike tip over on concrete right on top of the left rear , bent the Yamaha bracket that it was mounted to but the light only suffered a scuff . I have another set from the new owner now but haven't mounted them yet . .
  9. '87-'93'ish had thinner cylinders so they couldn't be bored out much but a person could swap in the later version . Otherwise same bike up to '07 just depends on what color you like which will dictate the model year(s) you'll look for. .
  10. Mine has an Arrow exhaust I do believe , made over in Europe . Probably the best place to look for one , but shipping may be horrible . I got my 510 fro $2800 , early last year , about the average price around me , though I had to get a $200 JDJetting control to make it not flameout all the time when it got warmed up (common issue with the efi ). The '05 I was looking at was $3200 . SM versions maybe $600-$1k more . .
  11. PM inbound , have some info for you , .
  12. The 600's have the same setups as these , auto decomp that's activated as the kicker is pushed down, actual mounting location a bit different but same setup/activation. plus they also have the dual throttle cables (all bikes have push-pull throttles , a safety item). It looked in his photo the the end of the decomp that's normally down in front of the kicker shaft is taken off and put up by the handlebar plus he said there were 2 cables up by the bars . I didn't know if a previous owner was trying to use it as a manual one , some people can't understand these auto systems and insist on wanting it manual , see it a lot on Honda's . Fortunately Yamaha has good design's and no need for messing with them , even the big boys kick over smooth and easy if the cable is adjusted correctly. .
  13. When I had a klr I cut the tab on the stem off and made some mounts to hold the stock headlight so the light followed with the steering , I also hated that dumb rigid mounting . With a Cyclops 3800 bulb and the relay mod so the power for the headlight doesn't go through the switch it made for a good light . Not going to be as good as those dedicated headlights like above for sure. There are now several LED bulbs that will fit in the stock reflector and will make very good light with a decent pattern , I have one in each of my KLX's . I have that headlight the OP has on my TE510 and with a HID setup it's good , pattern not perfect though . .
  14. With these old bikes it's nice to have a spare parts bike sometimes . So many times a dumb little bracket or whatever is broken or missing and you can't either get a new one or it part of a whole assembly that you don't need. I used to have 3 complete parts XT6's , but found titled frames for 2 so put them back on the street. It looks like the previous owner just took the decomp cable off the motor and put it up by the bars . The other cable I'd guess is maybe a choke , the 600's had handlebar chokes. .
  15. In my sand duning toys I always used OuterWares which are probably the company K&N uses to make their "pre-filters for water protection . They do indeed do a damn good job and keeping water out even though they're just a mesh cover , except the spaces are smaller than water droplets can go through easily . The setup always did a great job of keeping everything out of the motor. I used to put a couple strips of a sticky grease in a few spots inside the intake tract before the carb so if any fines got through they'd be caught and I could see an issue , they were always clean . Just keep the filters completely oiled , it tends to settle down and leave the top of the filter thin on protection so I'd generally give the top a quick spray of oil just before each ride that'll be dusty. I now use Motorex filter oil , it is the stickiest crap I've ever dealt with , hard to get off my hands, takes several washings in a grease cutting soap so it's a great filter oil. .