• Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

1,055 Excellent

1 Follower

About jjktmrider

  • Rank
    TT Titanium Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  • Interests
    quads, bikes and offroad

Recent Profile Visitors

910 profile views
  1. It allows fuel or air to freely flow past without the metering effect , it'll have poor adjustment due to lack of control, probably dripped fuel out the threads as well ? . .
  2. She's probably all worn out where the detent is . I've always had distinct "stops" in any that I've had. If that's worn chances are good the rest is a bit worn and probably leaking fuel past but I don't see it being that big an issue unless it's running poor or fouling plugs ect... to replace it , or if it won't stay on choke when trying to start . Sure it's a Mikuni and not Teikei ? .
  3. Are you positive it's coming from inside the motor ? A loose washer or shims will make an awful noise at very specific harmonics that come at specific rpms . I had a motor mount loose and the motor sounded like it had destroyed a bearing but listening carefully I could pinpoint it to coming from the outside a the washer under the head of the mount bolt . Cracked heatshields or even frame gussets can do it as well. .
  4. I have a WR250/450 fender on mine , 2 holes need to be redrilled , they come predrilled for the Yami pattern . .
  5. i have 3 XT600's currently, one build- high comp,100mm Raptor sleeve & piston ,ported, converted to E-start . I've have had 7 of these bikes through the past years , ONLY issue I've had with those carbs is on my built motor that's ported and the carb's can't take the extra air intake velocity and will freeze up when it's drizzling/raining , otherwise she has so much lowend torque that it'll pop the frontend up with barely a burp of throttle . These motors can be run much better with bigger carbs , that's a known fact , but they run great with them as well. Biggest issue with going with Raptor 660 carbs is no good/clean way to hook up the airbox , all I've seen is horrible cobbling or pod filters which suck on an offroad bike. I have a set here that I was going to use in my built bike and never found or saw a quality way to install them. A better swap is Kawasaki 250 Ninja carbs, spacing is the same , 32mm , but smaller bodies and fit the oem boots 50 times better (still don't fit ideally ,unfortunately no carb made fit the limited space designed for those smallTeikei carbs). Also the '13-16 300 Ninja efi throttle bodies fit perfect as well and with a Microsquirt unit will be a great addition , if I ever get around to installing it . By the sounds of some symptoms that I could make out is check the CDI , they are getting old, and one symptom of going bad is very hard to start and backfiring . Other is running ok up to 3500-3800rpms and then hitting a wall and won't rev higher . Beyond that they work roughly the same as most std Mikuni cv carb only split between 2 carbs , left as the primary carb(starting ,idle, low rpm) and then at approx 1/4-1/3 throttle the second(right) carb begins to open and adds air fuel for the higher rpms. Truely a great way to get good lowend (small carb) yet able to keep up at high rpms (big carb). It's the way several companies back then dealt with poorer quality carb tech back then where big carbs that these big singles need for topend power were very shitty at low rpm running, Honda had them as well in their XL600. .
  6. Just rebuilding the carb was mentioned , was it ran after or did the get done at the same time of the stator swap ? .
  7. One problem with the Rekluse that is used in the DRZ , it's not very good . They take one of the disc sets out to replace with the unit thus increasing the wear on the remaining discs ,the last thing these clutches need. If your rather hard on it just beware of it and limit feathering , especially when it's hot . .
  8. I don't think Web Cams(or any of the other aftermarket) will use the decomp so a good battery will be needed . I use LiFe PO4's for 2 high comp motors without decomp systems. This would be a good chance to help this motor breath better . These pins breaking off is a common issue with the KLR's and is the same system used here . One fix to help others before this happens is to keep an eye on them a reweld the pin if it shows to be loose or replace with a new one and weld back in. Also routinely replace the spring as they get weak and let the arms flutter . .
  9. These motors are aircooled so naturally run hotter than the water bikes , oil starts to break down in the 250ºF range which is where these motors run and warmer . Under "normal" running conditions there isn't really a need to have an oil cooler but it does nothing but good to keep the temps as cold as possible . When you start riding in traffic , or long distances at highway speed(yes oil temps get there hottest here) or mid summer and 90ºF then it becomes even better to run a cooler . Downside is fitting one and have ot out of the way so it doesn't become a liability rather than help. .
  10. By the 80mi trip your oil should be clear of excessive fuel . It vaporizes from the heat and get burnt off . It's never a good idea to beat on the motor when there is fuel in the gas , your running thinned out oil which doesn't do any good . It's never a bad thing to change the oil with any fuel leak instance but with the miles driven no need to do multiple changes , don't think there ever needs to be multiple changes , just one and go for a long ride to vaporize any fuel left inside . .
  11. The light hone is to put some of the cross hatches back in for seating the rings , it is ideal . I use ball hones to quickly scuff up the surfaces , 320grit usually , depending on mfg. .
  12. Someone screwed up with the listing and probably sold a pile quickly which alarmed them , so the price was changed. I've found anytime you see a ridiculously low price for something , buy it immediately before they catch it , sometimes it only takes an hour or 2 till the word gets out and there's a rash of sales. As for the piston, you can use any of the forged pistons in that motor , they'll all handle it fine. Key is to know the exact diameter of the cylinder and get the piston that is withing the clearance spec . I used a different piston than what came with my cylinder , just had the company pick out a piston the was the size I spec'd out . You can always send the piston to be coated to close up some clearances . Don't forget to verify ring endgaps !! .
  13. Your possibly very lean (partially plugged pilot or simply too small jet) and the "choke" on the Mikuni is really just an enrichment circuit that adds more air along with fuel so can make it worse if the fuel isn't flowing correctly . Besides verifying valve clearances , which would've been showing up over a period of time as it got worse and worse, if this issue just showed up it's likely not valves unless there is something bad going fast . .
  14. Ya, the light is not much more than an unlit candle , maybe will be so-so as a daytime running light . I put a HID kit in mine on my TE510 but it still has a poor pattern but is much brighter . Ironically my stock Husky reflector bolted right in if I wanted to use that one and used the same bulb as does my '08 KTM525 XC. It does look ok and no trouble if not night riding. .
  15. Good luck , hope that took care of it . It'd be a pisser to loose a paid trip. .