• Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

1,276 Excellent

1 Follower

About jjktmrider

  • Rank
    TT Titanium Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  • Interests
    quads, bikes and offroad

Recent Profile Visitors

2,557 profile views
  1. The XT's have 520 chains as well , the front sprockets are rather thin depending on brand . I think JT's have a wider hub along with one or 2 others , they're much better for the shaft splines . You had the bore redone ? Didn't the TT's have an aluminum cylinder with the bore plated ? The XT's have sleeves , what is the letters on the cylinder on the top fin ? .
  2. It keeps the Evil Knievel types from faceplanting into the front of the landing ramp because the bike stumbled and fell on its face as he hit the takeoff ramp . .
  3. I can't remember if the stock bars used a wedge system or not but you may be able to install the bolt and tap it inward to unlock the wedge then work the whole thing out . If it's just threaded solid ned you can simply drill and tap it out to the 8mm x 1.25mm of the Zeta bolts . You'll notice the Zeta guard shape will not come out square with the bar end , that's normal for them for some stupid reason and don't bother trying to bend it more , they're made of a very good tempered aluminum alloy. I have 5 of them and have mounted them on 7 or 8 different bars now , they haven't fit great on any , all should have been bent more to come out square to the bar end . I even emailed them to ask what is the name of that single bar that they'll actually fit , just got the response that they haven't heard of any fitment issues like that before , aka typical BS and no interest in fixing. .
  4. That's the same way I tension mine , finger tight turning it over, then start to listen and just barely a bit more, done . There is no doohickey on the klx motor , that's a KLR thingy . .
  5. http://www.jetsrus.com/individual_parts/021_045_su.html , shipping would negate making it worth buying unless they're willing to just throw it in a letter envelope , but doubtful .
  6. Aw come on , be the guinea pig to report if they work ! .
  7. I've had all mine done at Fasthead , usually just a week or 2 but at this time of year it's bad . They're usually done at around $250, but I send them the valves , springs, and keepers . .
  8. There's always a way of doing this , I can think of 2 ways right now to keep the cap setup but have a drain screw accessible from the side and not be some big honking thing hanging down .There are many bikes that taking that drain cap out is 2-3 times harder than the DRZ , my klx's for one no way to do it still in the bike, a person has to think more open, outside this one model on stuff like this . Most products come from someone thinking and actually doing it , while others quickly dismiss them saying they're fine with it as is . How many of those products are those same people now using daily and can't live without? (and the same ones I knew would negative comment the second I posted it)? I did figure it would be a limited client base option if I were to do it. .
  9. I see another possible product to make .Hmmmm .
  10. That Microsquirt should do both , cut spark and fuel(since you have efi),plus I believe it has a port for an air shifter so you can just hit the up or down button while keeping throttle pinned if you so choose . No need for a shift lever except maybe starting from a stop. .
  11. No KLR needs a 148 main jet , someone had that puppy blowing black smoke. Mine had 142 and it was rich but I used it all winter below 0ºF . The stock drz carb is a Mikuni , the KLR carb is a kehien so no mixing parts . If I could get past the zoning red tape for installing my cnc I could already have an option for you to use a Harley CV40 with accel pump , will be better than the klr carb. .
  12. I'd say it's a good chance that's all that has happened . Nothing 100% sure of course , but it's not a shape of something that's normally inside. .
  13. Those are chips , as in metal cutting chips , however most inside is aluminum . Could be from the frame oil tank , they drill the holes after several of the pieces are welded on . Shavings from the crank when it was turned ?(not quit as likely) .
  14. A little late but with these having the oil in the frame you need to add maybe 2/3 of the oil then start it up for maybe 20-30sec. , shut down and finish filling . Your putting all the oil in the frame but the total amount listed in the manual is counting the 3/4 quart or so that stays in the bottom of the motor . There is an anti drain valve inline down by the oil pump so the oil in the frame shouldn't drain down into the motor so you'll never get the new oil into the motor without starting and having the pump push it in there . I prefer to add maybe 1/2 quart in the motor through one of the valve inspection ports plus I soak the new filter with oil before installing it , helps get oil flowing faster . Remember when checking oil level you should always run it for a couple minutes , shut it off and wait about 1 or 2 minutes, then check level in the frame . If you don't always check shortly after it has been run the anti drain valve can let oil leak past so the level in the tank may show lower , however in reality the oil is down in the motor . Anytime I have the clutch cover off I put a new anti drain valve seal and spring so mine always work , then I don't need to run the motor before checking . .
  15. stator

    The Yamaha 600's, 660 , and 700 bikes and atv's don't have the starter gear's sprag bearing pinned ,plus only use 4 bolts , though they're 8mm. IIRC Honda xl/xr's don't have any pins either , the bolts hold them fine, but again 8mm instead of 6mm but still only 4. Really the DRZ isn't any different than most of the Japaneses ds bikes and atvs , yet they don't have such a common issue as the z, even Suzuki's own LTR450/RMZ450 which has the exact same setup doesn't suffer from it. .