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jjktmrider

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About jjktmrider

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    Male
  • Location
    Wisconsin
  • Interests
    quads, bikes and offroad

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  1. jjktmrider

    Trailtech in line temp sensor q's

    The one in the back of the head usually read 180º to 200ºF and be stable with the motor temperature. I've given up on water temps since they change too much depending if the thermostat is open or closed and how much , how warm or cold the ambient air temp is , how fast a person is driving and the wind cooling effect , ect.. .
  2. jjktmrider

    No power!!!

    Did you run the red wire to the positive battery terminal and black to the negative ? I don't have sound here at this computer so can't say what he said to do . For the temperature sensor , do not put it in the left radiator like he did , I have a much better and accurate place to put it since it's the 6mm x 1.0 probe . Go on the backside of the head just above the ACCT/MCCT , there is a bolt screwed in , take it out and put the probe in with a bit of RVT( I prefer red or orange here, copper would work). It will then allow you to see what the oil temperature is in the head right where it's the hottest and where you'll see a spike if something is going wrong . I had 2 probes on my DRZ for a while to compare best spots , one in the left radiator and one in the head , I seldom saw 130ºF in the rad(often 90-105º with cooler air temp), but close to 200ºF(ave 180-190ºf) in the head and it changed quicker with how I was riding. The radiator mount is only reading what the coolant is after going through the right and generally only changes if the thermostat is open, different air temps altered how close it was as well . Too far off to be any good to save a motor if something goes wrong IMHO . .
  3. jjktmrider

    Trailtech in line temp sensor q's

    I put the 6mm x 1 probe in the 6mm hole in the backside of the head just above the ACCT/MCCT . it read the oil temp and has been much more accurate than the the I have had in the radiator . I've always hated those inline units because it's another 2 connections and possible failure(maybe a low%) . Most of my bike & atvs get the sensors put in the head where the oil is it's hottest . Unfortunately if you already have a kit the probe will be 1/8 BSPP not the 6mm x 1 needed , but you can get one from TrailTech . https://www.motosport.com/product/?adpos=1o1&cc=us&creative=281105506479&device=c&gclid=CjwKCAjwu5veBRBBEiwAFTqDwcWPB7NbjiQF-VB7brEAL2UhXdSven5gDKDkzVGva_KQ3meW8UqfVxoCfU0QAvD_BwE&key=Trail-Tech-Water-Temperature-Sensor-Probe&matchtype=&mrkgadid=3301756018&mrkgcl=500&network=g&product_id=TRH004L-X001-Y001&pssource=true&rkg_id=0&segment=badger
  4. jjktmrider

    Welding on the bike

    Pretty much all the welders(99% TIG) here have cellphones either on them or near by so it's not an issue . I've not had any trouble the times I let a battery hooked up on something , not a lot of times really the parts left on the vehicle though anyways . We had decided to try to get away without removing a part from one of the cnc's to do a quick weld (3 hour setup plus an hour getting the part off) and had it as isolated as possible from the mill table with the clamp 1/2" from the weld . 1/10th millsecond after the arc struck, the mill was dead . Just popped a safety circuit board but still showed some juice will get everywhere . .
  5. But did you ride a bike down to -19f ? My limit thus far . Growing up in the the damn cold is more than a few years just dealing with the cold . I guarantee you didn't do it with Lithium batteries . Mine are inside at those temps . .
  6. jjktmrider

    What is this bolt hole for on the rear caliper?

    Why would you put the speedo on the rear wheel ? it'll be up and down anytime your spinning and mileage will also then be off and different each time depending how much spinning is done . I'd guess strictly on the street and doing no spinning it wouldn't be bad but I don't see the gain in running such a long wire going back there over simply down to the front wheel as is normal . .
  7. Ya I know all about "warming them up" , try it once at 10-20F , you flood it out by the time the battery is warmed enough and it's spinning fast enough . With all led lights don't draw enough to warm them and standing there in the cold with my heated jacket plugged in isn't something I care to do . Good thing is my drz literally will fire off with a few throttle twists to squirt fuel down it's throat and when it just barely(and very slowly) gets pushed past TDC, it'll crackle and fire off, without even spinning the motor over , my other bikes won't do that , a big benefit of having an accel pump. I'm either plugging in a 25w heater pad wrapped around the battery ,plug a battery charger in an hour before I need to start it as it sits outside , or a 12v cordless drill battery plugged into a parallel hook up port to add juice just for temporary starting . For winter I'd much prefer a lead battery but when the biggest size that will actually fit won't spin a high comp motor over in the summer even, they don't do no good in the cold either . .
  8. jjktmrider

    Broken wire on throttle position sensor

    Go ahead and run it , doubt you'll notice anything different it does so little . Many have them off anyways . .
  9. I want in on this bet , so that's $100 on this side ! I'm going on to 5 years since the first one and am now using 6 of them , only time I've been "let down" is from leaving a key on , and a lead battery would have been dead also . Other times it's actually been the opposite , being able to crank for way, way longer due to having a LiFe-PO4 battery and getting it started when a normal lead battery would have been dead long before it started . Downside is cold temps , they tend to be slow once it gets into the 30's(F) and lower needs to be either warmed or a jumper pack to get them going . Let one drain to 3-7v once and they're done for usually , but the new Anti Gravity should solve that . .
  10. jjktmrider

    Broken Cylinder Head Cover Bolt

    If your able to sharpen your own drillbits you can take one around 3/16" and sharpen it backward to grab the stud . It won't look right but as long as it's got the correct reliefs it'll dig in a grab , even drill material out if it's sharpened good enough, but your really only after it grabbing and turning the stud out . .
  11. jjktmrider

    Tubeless conversion

    I'd try to fit an o-ring or 2 on the rimlocks bolt to help seal the hole . If the rimlock used comes close to the rim center when tightened down , an o-ring there would seal good , with a wider gap a spacer could be made to slide over the bolt to takeup any extra space with another o-ring on top of it , thicker the o-ring the more squish can be allowed to make sure it doesn't bottom out before the lock is tight on the tire bead . Plus an o-ring on the outside under the nut to seal as a backup but it would require the nut to have a chamfer or small counterbore for the o-ring otherwise it'll just get smeared into the threads . Is a lot of extra pieces though . A spacer like this may work as well without needing o-rings ,https://www.mcmaster.com/bumper-spacers , rubber grommets come to mind as well for sliding over the bolt inside the rim . . .
  12. jjktmrider

    Moving Battery Location

    Probably takes less than that even to equal any benefit . I had my panel off adding a jumper cable to my batt for winter cold starting, the area looked awfull not being covered up. .
  13. jjktmrider

    Head Tube Bearing Replacement - Front End Maintenance

    If you have easy access to a MIG or TIG welded you can do a quick weld bead on the inside of each outer bearing races in the headstock and they'll slide out without a punch or drift needed . It's sometimes an easier method if the headstock bearing stop inside completely blocks the race from being punched out normally, or easily . If there is good access to the outer race a punch or drift (or better yet ,puller) is the preferred method . Anytime I have the races out I take a die grinder and put a couple notches in the stops to allow good access to the races with a punch the next time . .
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