jjktmrider

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Everything posted by jjktmrider

  1. We get much of our cutting tools from places like this , https://www.mscdirect.com/browse/Threading?navid=12105963 OSG (Hy-Pro 7's) and Guhring is our main brands for taps but they will be on the pricey side for most home use . Hertel , Emuge ,or GTD are cheaper options . I've never used the sets that are sold by Irwin the others and don't know what quality they really are . In that category there's no guarantee that they are any good , some will chip the cutting teeth real easy, others will snap fairly easy when they shouldn't ,the rest will hold up good. Then there are coatings that GREATLY increase tool life and has more influence on cutting tip life than material make-up, but for aluminum the "bright" finish is good enough . I guess depending on what a person wants out of them and what they plan to cut threads in, the better name brand companies will be better choices and have the best quality. I personally would get the higher quality ones ,at least for the popular sizes as add-on pieces . For refreshing threads that were already cut I have thread forming taps that don't cut any more material out , they form the threads and are much stronger . In aluminum they work good for making the threads to start with as well . .
  2. I've ridden several bikes now (dr650 was one) that with the wind coming from a certain side , angle, speed ect.. it effects the slide in the CV carbs . As Ohio stated, that's likely and not much that can be done in those specific conditions . .
  3. Well if it ran fine , then was pressure washed (which is a big no-no , reason likely for this thread) I go with laws of probabilities . Water is no good for electricity , forced water gets past seals and into electrical places . I'd first blow out all switches and reasonably exposed connectors , sparkplug boot and coil ,ect.. then see if it starts . then check for water in the carb and the list goes darker from there . I'd bet it's simply water in where it isn't nice. .
  4. Do you know how many bikes run off their battery not the stator so no battery=stranded also , not efi dependent . Even those that run off the stator , with a bad/shorted battery they won't run either including the drz . .
  5. As you found out there's a whole sub-catagory of tire choices , gives you a reason to ride more so you can wear them out and try the different tires , or like me buy a bunch of ds bikes and have different tires on most so you can compare side x side , but still not find that elusive "perfect set" . I personally would have gone with a T63 or TII in the rear and IRC TR8 or Pirelli Scorpion MX32 front for what I know of your area ,Shinko 700's fr & rear would've worked really well also but not for as much offroading, but that's just ones that I like for my conditions . So many options with so little time . .
  6. If it cranks fine and your not riding in colder weather and/or have higher compression with no decomp, the bigger size only benefits a little bit of faster cranking speed(which lets it start just a little bit faster) with a bit more extra reserve capacity for times of a flooded engine or some issue that requires a bunch more cranking to get started. For me up here I generally go bigger for the cold weather and having that extra reserve for heated gear ect.... That first Ballistic paid for itself in the one bikes high comp motor and no decomp system that all my normal batteries couldn't get it to turn one revolution past the first compression stroke . It's built beyond what the stock carbs can handle with air velocity going through the little feeder passages for the pilot jet and choke so in wet weather/damp roads/melting snow the carb freezes up and several times I've had it shut down too far from home to push so I waited, cranked, waited, cranked, ect... that battery cranked for way,way, beyond any lead acid one could and was always able to go long enough till the airway thawed and I could get it started and make it home . .
  7. I've had a 8cell Ballistic(gen2) for 4years now , give or take a few months can't remember the exact date , it's still going strong as is the second one I got about 8-10months later , the third one, the first gen3LiFe-PO4, was fine till I left a key on and completely discharged it ,a new Lithium specific charger seemingly has fixed it after a couple weeks but I don't trust it as you have found out . My fourth is now happily cranking my 525KTM over . I also have a Shorai and BT-240 now , thus far the only one that seems to be weaker than I think it should be is the Shorai in my TE510 , doesn't crank it over like the Ballistic that was in there till I moved it to my LTR, where I left the key on. It's a good reminder to be careful with these batteries , I had to ride my ltr home after it had been drained dead so it could have burnt down in a similar fashion , but was then taken out and has been sitting on the charger since, took about a month and the indicator lights have finally settled on all green where-as before they had been showing continued testing-saving-balancing-testing-saving-charging-holding-ect..ect... .
  8. All Pingel "dirt bike" valves will be just on/off except one and that is a side outlet same as the "raptor " valves, which fits most bikes/atvs just not so for the DRZ unfortunately, however depending on the actual angle it comes out at it may work, but I have no proof on that . Info on their valves is easily gotten off their site , http://www.pingelonline.com/pc_combined_results.asp?search_cat=searchexact~pcpcm.parent_pc_id~908609CF24474440B570A1548C432397&pc_id=908609CF24474440B570A1548C432397 The one way to get a Pingel with on/off/res plus a downward outlet is their "build your own" option and using thier Power-Flo model#6291-AH with the 3/8ntp mount then getting the 3/8 adaptor plate for mounting to the common dirt bike tanks .Note=I have not tried one on the steel DRZ tank) All in they're in the $120-$130 range . Very pricey option. .
  9. Unfortunately loctite doesn't seal the head from rusting , those who live up here and know better plus don't like rusty shit ,either live with ugly rust, replace often or with stainless , I guess I could just not ride for 4-5 months also , but...... here's some examples, with pictures to help out , https://www.ebay.com/itm/1990-Honda-Cr-125-Rear-Sprocket-Nuts-and-Bolts/253183162777?hash=item3af2e47999:g:j5IAAOSwH-9ZobJU&vxp=mtr https://www.ebay.com/itm/1996-YZ-250-Rear-Sprocket-Bolts-Nuts-Hardware-CK4/292227282524?hash=item440a1a765c:g:-9AAAOSwdBRZd5mf:sc:USPSPriority!54421!US!-1&vxp=mtr .
  10. The stock "E" model petcock works for those aftermarket tanks .They're around $65 through Partzilla under the KLX side. .
  11. They're twins so doubtful both cylinders are dead on compression so one should pop at least . I've fixed a fuel pump on one which is a common problem with these .When it goes out they just shut down but it should do something with starting fluid . I'd really verify it has spark , timing is right, and then check compression to at minimum get a baseline of what your have . I don't know if it has an auto decompression system which will effect compression testing so a leakdown test is ideal . Also IIRC there is a certain auto shutdown circuit on these that require a reset if tripped , has to do with the belt deflection switch and swapping a grey connector to the black one then turn key on/off and then switch connectors back ect... something like that . The connectors are under the left tank plastics .Also may just be on the 650's when they were Prairie's , been a while . Is the light on ? https://www.google.com/search?q=brute+force+750+belt+reset+procedure&rlz=1C1CHFX_enUS570US573&oq=Brute+Force+750+reset&aqs=chrome.3.0j69i57j0l4.33709j0j8&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8 .
  12. As has been posted in other threads not very many of the "Raptor" petcocks are actually Raptor petcocks ,90% are Chinese copies these day so they don't all fit the same , but very few, if any allow a clean fuel line fitament . Also even with the spacer under the base the whole issue with those petcocks on the stock tank along with the bsr carb is the outlet comes out right into the carb so the fuel line hits hard and has nowhere to go but a sharp corner and looped all around the carb and come up from below to get to the carb inlet . None of this applies to aftermarket tanks and/or with the FCR carb . The downward outlet options tend to fit best in this setup or better yet a Pingel valve . .
  13. My LTR only has 4 of them , Not likely to shear of 6 in a bike when a quad with more power ,higher grip tires, and guys jump them 70-90 feet(Doug Gust) and still no shearing of the 4 ? Hmmmm Can you say over engineered ? Now if the sprocket was another 3-4inches bigger dia thus has more leverage , I'd be more leary . Honestly if I was in a place that rust and corrosion wasn't a constant issue I'd probably just replace with some normal ones since I'd not be replacing again anytime soon . .
  14. Knew you'd have an issue. yup 82 degree heads. I've used them for years , no issues, never broke a single one , and that was even on my race quad with 2 wheels that grip a hell of a lot more than a bike wheel. But if a person doesn't like them don't use 'em . Buy the special ones , nothing wrong with them but the price . .
  15. The whole reason for the dual carbs (Honda and Suzuki did it as well ) was back then the carbs weren't as well designed as later on . Small carbs couldn't flow good enough at higher rpms but are great for throttle response and lowend torque . Bigger carbs tended to over carb a motor down low and throttle response was poor but they flowed perfect for higher revs , thus the dual carb setup and the staggered opening . Down low the motor just runs off the left carb aka small carb and it takes care of starting ,idle and throttle response mostly . Then as you open up the throttle and revs come up the second carb comes in thus acting like a single big carb , best of both worlds for the time those bike were made . They worked and still work great but need to be setup right which takes a person that thinks of them in the stages that they work at. These days there are many carbs that can handle the lowend work plus flow plenty good up top to not need a dual setup . The 600's dual carbs needed to be 30 or 32mm rather than the 28mm , they didn't flow enough for the motor yet . I have a built 600 with a 98mm high comp piston , head and cylinder shaved a bit plus the small chamber 34L head so the comp ratio is around 12.5:1 , plus I did a very unique swirl pattern in the intake ports that start in the rubber boots already to get the air to act like a tornado and really speed up velocity . That motor has pulled the front a foot off the ground at 35mph when shifting into third and held it there to 60 before running out of gear . I was pissed at the thing because while it runs great and can pop the front end up with literally just an 1/8 twist of the throttle , if there is ANY sort of high moisture , drizzle , rain , wet roads , melting snow(thus high moisture content in the air), I can only make it 3/4 mile before the carbs freeze up and stops the fuel from being sucked up into the intake. It'll do it 100% of the time so I cannot ride it any day if there is any chance of rain or if there is snow on the ground and it gets above freezing so the snow starts to melt , even though the roads are dry , just that extra moisture in the air is enough to freeze it up . Has pissed me off too many times and I already have a set of EX250 carbs for it and a Microsquirt efi controller with EX300 throttle bodies , depends which route I go ,likely the efi , but I have 5 other bikes to ride so it hasn't been much of a priority. .
  16. Ya, your right , I was picturing the 500 head . The 550 was changed to the 4 valve setup. .
  17. Rather than paying so much for a few bolts in fancy packages , I buy quantity at the same costs and have more to replace bolts and nuts elseware . I use these stainless steel bolts from Mcmaster ,$11 for 25 of the 25mm long , or $5.50 for 10 of the 30mm long , https://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-flat-head-screws/=1bj3css SS locknuts , $8 for 50 = https://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-flat-head-screws/=1bj3css and no corrosion if your in an area that it's an issue which is why I replace everything with stainless . .
  18. I have been looking at that particular bike , used to be asking $2200 last year , however I already have 2 red /purple framed versions already. As far as parts , they're fixable . Most parts can be gotten , some easier than others but not dead ends . Good thing is if taken care of and oil kept good/changed reasonably , these motors last a long time . One of mine is pushing 25k miles and it's still going strong . Plastics and tanks are the hardest to replace , you'll want to not fall over if you don't want scratched plastic because replacement is hard , black does come up occasionally , my red is non existant . I was wanting a black set thus why I had been looking at that one , it seemed in good shape . If you get that bike you'll want to change those tires , my '95 came with those Kenda 760's and anything but dry pavement they had little traction , outright dangerous on wet anything . People seem to love to get them when selling a bike because they're so cheap . .
  19. They're not a separate part to buy , once they're deteriorated it's either time to buy a new petcock or an inline filter . oem at Partzilla is $65 , https://www.partzilla.com/product/kawasaki/51023-1148?ref=07ff76f149cbf3f6daab84bc3a46c51f563bba53 You can buy a cheap Chinese petcock of ebay and use the filters from it , however some use different sized tubes so the filter may not fit, many are the same . Or , since all the bases are the same you can get a petcock for any of the 100 other models and brands of bikes & atvs that'll be cheaper maybe but most will be in the $60-$70 dollar range for the vacuum style , maybe a bit cheaper to go the manual petcock route and cap off the vacuum port on the carb . .
  20. Long ago I invested in a crapload of 6 point sockets/ socket sets (deep, std, & impact) and wrenches/wrench sets with the box end also 6pt .Now 90% of what I do is done with them . The bolts usually twist off before the hex rounds over . With those rounded over nuts you can drill out the head , going just deep enough to get to the sprocket then punch the bolt out . or try a vice grip on the nuts to turn after a bit of heat since it's likely that loctite junk was used , good time to get stainless nylocks and bolts , just be sure to anti seize the stainless. .
  21. I'd say that is jetted very lean . I'd bet it doesn't start that great when the motor is cold needing full choke even at 70F . I have that same exhaust only mine has the insert in it so it isn't so annoyingly loud and crackly . Definately repack also . .
  22. I'd powdercoat it then in whatever color desired , no fading . helps of course to have your own powdercoating setup though . .
  23. I've posted about that petcock and a few more in the past , all downward outlets . It's been 4 years approx. with that one . If I still had the BSR carb and kept the stock petcock I'd either make a point to replace that needle seat o-ring every year or change to a Viton oring to not have to worry about whether the petcock leaks or not . Only problem then is you get a surprise of fuel leaking everywhere when a person takes the fuel line off and the non shut-off able oem petcock is leaking and no "off" position . .from back when I had the bsr carb but still have the petcock with the fcr only now I seldom shut it off .
  24. They're mid to high priced around me though the S's can be $3k ,but some are always asking more, the SM's are $4K min. for pure trash examples to $5500-$6k for those "special" ones with fancy stickers . Surprisingly very few actual mods on them even for that kind of money . https://appleton.craigslist.org/mcy/d/2007-suzuki-drz-400/6481674540.html .
  25. With the bike leaned over the float couldn't shut the fuel off like it's supposed to and let it keep flowing . If the petcock was in the "on" or "res"position it wouldn't have done this . With only 20 miles on the thing the needle seat o-ring will be fine thus far . Just drain all the oil from all the standard spots and put in fresh stuff along with a filter and go for a fairly long ride to burn off any little bit of extra fuel that might be left and your good to go . No need for multiple oil changes , just don't beat on it at first till any fumes are gone if that's even necessary . .