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jjktmrider

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Everything posted by jjktmrider

  1. Me too , up till maybe 4 years ago I don't think I ever turned a petcock off on anything , still don't on some of my bikes or atv's . The DRZ has been the one and only toy to ever flood out the motor or leave a puddle on the floor . Still surprises me how many of these leak , both the petcock and that o-ring , yet all others don't . .
  2. I have a couple sets , RMZ-250 , RM-250, RMZ-450(?), and RM-125 triple trees here('01-'04 timeframe) I can measure . IIRC the hole the stem presses into were all 1.181"(30mm) . I put thoses triple and usd's on various bikes and made new stem for most of them so the oem stem is around somewhere . Biggest issue would be the outside diameter of the DRZsm forks compared to the RM/Z forks , none of them were the same dia as each other which surprised me . There isn't much that can be done if the forks are bigger/smaller , not wise to bore the clamp portion much since they're thin to start with . Shimming , if the forks are smaller is possible , however I have one like that using CR250 Showa forks in one and those shims keep wanting to move , I don't like to crank those bolts down more than the 10-12ft/lbs . I wouldn't use aluminum for the stem , mine were all stainless (what I have in abundance) ,otherwise a good 4041 or something like that. .
  3. Ya, the ever popular desire to go slow controllably yet do freeway speeds with ease . Not going to happen with the stock tranny . Where your at, sprocket wise ,is about the best compromise you'll get . Going lower will run such high rpms down the freeway , plenty of threads on here with the results of doing that , though there will be some coming on here that'll say it's fine do run 7k+ rpms all day without issue . Any higher gearing and your really slipping the clutch or going rather fast in the rough technical trails . I went with the ACT gears and kept it lower final gearing but can easily putt along at 65mph , still not my favorite highway bike but at least the gearing is more up to it. .
  4. If you were closer to me I'd take the KLX off your hands , I've been watching for a decent priced one with plans to do the BB 351 , it would be an ideal winter bike . I've tried a bunch of bikes now and it's hard to find the right bike light enough , good power but mild enough to have linear output , tranny spacing that keeps the power smooth . Around here the few that come up are above $3k but still 250's . The efi version would be nicer but harder to tune for the bb. I take my stroker motor out of the dzr for ice riding ,getting sick of it . .
  5. There is that brass tube part in your middle picture that many people don't install but should . I see your isn't either since the new one is there. It is part of the emulsion tube/needle guide, goes under the main jet and gets worn from vibrations and effects clean jetting with the needle . It should always be replaced when rebuilding these carbs . .
  6. There is a spacer stuck to the bottom where it mounts to the tank . You need to tap it harder or put that part in a vice and tap it sideways to break it loose. .
  7. They get tapped into whichever light circuit I want them to be lit with , like the brake circuit , or a specific side of the signals so anytime that circuit is on those lights come on. .
  8. I've been trying to warn of this situation for about 2 years . I have a downward outlet version and have found several others that work , like some of a DT175 (look for the long stem). https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2060353.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.XYamaha+dt+petcock.TRS0&_nkw=Yamaha+dt+petcock&_sacat=0 , there are a few others that work as well . This issue only applies to the stock steel tank . ORRRrrrrr , the best and never worry again , http://www.pingelonline.com/pc_combined_results.asp?search_cat=searchexact~pcpcm.parent_pc_id~908609CF24474440B570A1548C432397&pc_id=908609CF24474440B570A1548C432397 .
  9. I have a pile of LED's , both amber and red , some automatically flash , they can be added anywhere a person wants . The dot can be simply stuck to plastics like I have on some of my handguards , or on downtubes by rear wheel facing rear for an extra brake light or amber as a signal , can even line them up to make an arrow that points to the side for a signal. Worst is the rear getting them wide enough to be away from the tail light and be seen good , I feel a flashing brake or with plenty of red shinning in their eyes to get attention is #1 priority , then they'll be aware to look for the signals . Front a bunch of amber to make it more obvious of your intention of turning plus a good bright headlight . Brightness in these pics are tamed down quite a bit due to camera , they're all pretty bright and easily seen in daylight. Here's some ideas , Still have a bunch of winter projects to add .
  10. The o-ring that is in the groove of the seat is the one we refer to as "under" the seat . Just a sort of play on words (or something like that) as to the approx location of where it is and a person has to pull out the brass seat to get to it . .
  11. A bunch of fuel in the oil is what'll make it really hard to get restarted when hot ,it'l start easy when cold again so definitely check that . If there is then jet it back to the same as it was and make sure that o-ring under the needle seat is replaced. I bought those o-rings in Viton and EPDM in bulk packages so if you need one PM me and I can mail one . .
  12. You can run the bike without the accel pump working , it just won't be snappy and may bog when hitting the throttle fast. .
  13. Gas coming from the tank goes through the float needle and seat . If the float is set very low it'll shut any gas from going into the bowl . The acc pump has nothing to do with no gas getting into the bowl itself , it needs gas in the bowl already to work . Be careful what you take apart on a fcr , some parts don't work very good once disassembled from original , hard to get everything perfectly sealed again which makes them work crappy from then on . .
  14. https://www.superbrightleds.com/cat/led-wired-bolts/?view=standard , also good for adding another red brake lights holding the licence plate . I have several on my bikes that all light up with the brake light . Bottom of page , good for signals , https://radlites.com/LED_indoor_outdoor_kitchen_pond.htm .
  15. Where you located at here in this cold miserable state ? I have a bunch of options I could help with for much better visual plus keep it "looking" better than those big oem signals. .
  16. Was the acc pump all that wasn't getting gas ? Even if the accel pump is clogged it should still run , just won't be a crisp trottle and bog if you hit it fast . .
  17. Ya , they started redirecting over to JP cycles site for some tires , now I see several are now no longer even available . My guess they'll drop everything but the H-D tires and wipe out DS/ADV altogether , basically the end of Motorcycle Superstore . .
  18. I used to get most of mine from Motorcycle Superstore , but now JP Cycle took over and they're a H-D store so prices will go up and less tire available so I'm moving on. .
  19. I have the 3800 Cyclops ,an ADVMonster version plus a Chinese copy that I've tried in all my different bikes ,some are good, none are great and as stated the patterns are so goofy , nice and bright where there is light but big black spots or narrow beams . It all depends on the reflector housing plus the bulb placement in that reflector (deeper/shallower make a difference ), one bulb is just shit in one bike but pretty good in another . For me the best of all is that multi led replacement 4x6 unit that had a thread on here . .
  20. Ya, there is no re-greasing the bearings , they are simply replaced with new one along with seals and your good to go . As stated you get the sealed type bearings , 6204-2RS ect.... Not sure if those first 4 numbers are the bearings used in this bike , just used them as an example . There are complete wheel kits that have both bearings plus the seal or seals if 2 are needed(rear) . Put some wheel bearing grease in the speedo drive after cleaning it out good as well , good chance it has never been done in it's whole life . A bunch more stuff for the bike here as well , http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/the-xt350-thread.270341/ .
  21. Then what's the retainer for ? I'd never 'eff with old seal as long as I'm already working on it , and the area is all cleaned up . I prefer cheap replacing seals and then be known good and not have another "issue" shortly down the road , maybe next will be around a corner and wipeout with oil all over the rear tire or just a ride with friends lost because of a $15 part . I know 2 guys I'll never ride with anymore , they never believe in any preventative stuff , 1/2 the rides 1 or both have issues and the group looses a good day . Be different if it's got low mileage or absolutely known to still be 100% , but nobody can say that honestly. .
  22. What does gearing have to do with the speedometer ????? Rethink what your are saying , the speedo is ONLY read off the front wheel !!! I have Trailtechs on several bike and quads , like them but if a bike has an oem speedo I prefer keeping them than messing with the trailtech , the TTO gauges take care of temps and rpms . .
  23. I personally would replace all three oil seals down there - shifter shaft , c'sprocket shaft, and clutch arm shaft since it looks to be enough mileage on them . I like to take care of those common leakers before they spray oil over the rear tire , they're cheap. .
  24. Ya they're all the same through the years . .
  25. You need the SM speedo drive . There are 2 different drives , one for the 21" tires the other for the 17" tires . They're geared different so the headunit can read accurate and is the same on all models . No need for a trailtech. When I got my SM wheels for my S I just bought a new SM drive , not that pricey . https://www.partzilla.com/product/suzuki/54600-29F10?ref=2257d66beb8605d57ddf53cd91336b318aded3ee Used ones off ebay are generally the same price, if not more, so just get new . .