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Everything posted by jjktmrider

  1. jjktmrider

    Stroker Crank Options Besides Hot Rods

    You can send your crank to a few companies to have it stroked and a Carrillo rod installed with a bigger bearing , A higher quality option but more $$$ . As far as plug-n-play , only Hot Rods . .
  2. jjktmrider

    New plastics

    My plastics can probably be brought up to that shine with some elbow grease only the one headlight bezel is cracked . Not much for scratches at least , would like to have a NOS full set as a spare especially the radiator scoops , if one ever falls over one will get cracked . Living on a gravel road makes cleaning and polishing stuff pointless other than UV protection , by the time I get to the main road there is a layer of dust everywhere , sucks . I can go slow to keep from kicking up dust but there's always an a-h*le that'll go by doing 70mph . Is that an oem seat cover ? I'm in need of at least one , both of mine had been replaced with an aftermarket black before I got them and I don't know what cover would fit good and look correct. .
  3. Not being warm/hot has nothing to do with very little oil draining out . If all the drain plugs where taken out that's all the oil that was in there assuming some time was left for it to drain . Draining the oil when warm is so it flows a little better/faster and contaminants are still suspended in the oil so it all comes out better . Just because the oil is cold doesn't mean the oil will magically stay in the motor or tank , ignoring the laws of physics, it'll just take longer to dribble out . With the number of bikes and atv's I have I often drain them cold , just leave them draining overnight . If it's been a longer interval in one I'll try to do it when it's still warm (it is the best method). A compression or leakdown check is needed along with verifying there is spark and trying a squirt of starting fluid to rule out carburation. .
  4. jjktmrider

    Opening new Thumper talk chapter of my life

    The motor has a normal filter on the clutch side for filtering the oil about as good as an auto . That screen on the bottom is just for the pump pickup so it doesn't suck up chunks that'll destroy the pump . The 600's don't have that design so the screens can plug up over time and wreck the motor from oil starvation , I wish they had this same setup so it can be kept clean . My KTM and Husky have similar setups. 2000 miles is a good number to change the oil . One thing that isn't taken into account on these air cooled motor is they run 250-280F instead of the 180-210F of newer water bikes . Normal dyno oil starts to break down at 220F-240F so full syn is a big help since it doesn't break down till higher temps . .
  5. jjktmrider

    WR250 with a clogged fuel system?

    I know the '08's had fuel pump issues , don't know if that continued or how they failed . If you hear it I'd guess that it is okc butthey may have failed by stopping pumping even though they still ran , another thing would be the filter(s) though I'd think it would have shown some high rpm issues long before it simply shuts down as the filter was getting plugged. A bad sensor could be a cause , a code should be thrown then or the efi light blinking steady or in a pattern . .
  6. jjktmrider

    Oil drain plugs on xt250

    And a 6 point socket or wrench at that , the 12 points can slowly round the soft aluminum over . I like that strainer setup , the bigger bikes don't have them and I've taken several of them apart where the pickup strainer is just about plugged by old rtv worms , gasket chunks ,gunk from this-n-that . Only way to clean them is to split the cases so they never get cleaned. I know some of those motors lost there life earlier due to oil starvation in certain areas over time . .
  7. jjktmrider

    DRZ400E Headlight to run Cyclops Bulb

    The'96 to '03 or '04 DR650 has the same basic headlight and surround as the DRZ with a few differences but bolt up ,so if one of those can be found cheaper it's another option. The newer ones bolt up and are the same and more color options . .
  8. jjktmrider

    Help with indentifying skidplate

    Just remember there won't be full thread debth with the 1/4 so they won't take heavy torque . It's more reliant on there being some thread/material left from the 6mm thread and just going a little deeper . If all the material is gone out to 6mm, like the nut had been drilled, there wouldn't be much for threads . In that case you'd have go to 8mm x 1.24mm or 5/16-24(a few thousanths smaller than 8mm) , but the wall thickness will be getting pretty thin (.039"),should be just enough . Good side is that 1/4(letter D) is the basic drill size for those threads(letter F) thus why I tend to try 1/4" first . I guess a person could order some 7mm bolts, and a tap, not a whole lot of options there, but McMaster has some https://www.mcmaster.com/standard-hex-head-screws , I like to use flat, round, or button heads for skid plates but they don't have them in 7mm. That decision should be made before trying to tap with 1/4 to leave more material , they'd take plenty of torque . .
  9. When you drained the oil did you drain the reservoir tank as well ? Good chance you don't have much if any compression since your out of oil . There can be a lot of head damage as well . You'd basically be looking at a topend build and a few things to inspect down below . Too bad your down by Milwaukee , I'd check the motor over and could tell you what's wrong, was just down there a few weeks ago looking at a couple cnc's. Any chance you get up into the center of WI ? .
  10. jjktmrider

    Help with indentifying skidplate

    Nothing wrong with it , at least then they're all the same . With 1/4-28 you can just run a tap through , no need to drill the hole any bigger . It's the SAE fine thread so most hardware store should have a selection of bolts . .
  11. jjktmrider

    Help with indentifying skidplate

    8mm would be a bit big for the welded nuts . I've gone with 1/4-28(fine thread and very close to 1.0mm pitch) which is a little bigger than 6mm , but then you have to remember there is a std bolt there when using a wrench and keeping track of which bolt goes there. Not a big deal with something that's only touched once a year or so. Best is just cut off and weld a new nut, then all is normal, if you have a welder. Depending which one it is and if easy to get at above with the plate installed you can also just put a nut on top and hold it with a wrench when tightening . .
  12. jjktmrider

    2018 Fuel Tank Options for DRZ400

    I'd be interested if the Hydro dipped will hold up to the fumes or bubble and peel like most decals do on these plastic tanks. Something that can be done at home with a big enough tank and purchase the material . .
  13. jjktmrider

    Help with indentifying skidplate

    Looks like a Richocet skid plate to me , Same fab'ing methods used as my KLX650 plates from them . Notice the slotted holes and how they run ,among other things . TT had Richocet make theirs . For the frame tube clamps they use 8mm x 1.25 bolts(at least they were on mine) so you'll need 2 different sized bolts , if this version used the clamps and the same hardware throughout the models. https://ricochetoffroad.com/collections/suzuki-drz400 .
  14. jjktmrider

    Klx400 Supermoto ideas

    I'd think gold rims with black spokes, hub and maybe just silver nipples(or stick with black) would stand out and go good with the green plastics .The deeper the gold the better. Too many colors on the rims/wheels looks cartoonish to me , black and silver go good with most with black having more impact . On Warp 9's website you can go through the colors in their interactive wheel builder and see how the colors look together only they're not on the bike to see how they are when mounted . .
  15. jjktmrider

    Messed up changing clutch plates.

    Did you put the pushrod back in along with the T rod that goes UNDER the cover plate bearing ? Also the plates go in a certain way , there is 1 fiber that has a bigger ID , it goes in first after the rings, ones a wave spring (Suzi calls them washers) It's goes inside the id of plate 6 . There is also a washer that goes under the inner hub , between it and the outer hub (big main hub with all the fingers). I'd verify all parts are there and in the correct order . As long as you didn't remove the arm from the splined shaft it should be in the right spot , otherwise it is possible to install it one spline off . You'll need to release the cable tension to move it if the clutch pack is all together . If all is correct you should see the outer plate move out roughly 1/16"'ish when you pull the clutch lever . Here's a schematic of order in how the parts go . Notice plate #6 .https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/suzuki/motorcycle/2012/dr-z400sl2/clutch .
  16. jjktmrider

    DRZ400 weight loss

    Oh , your not done , https://www.maxrpms.net/category/motorcycle-kits/suzuki/drz400/ .
  17. jjktmrider

    Wideband install on MRD tips

    Me ? MX . Otherwise back to original poster. .
  18. jjktmrider

    Wideband install on MRD tips

    I don't really hammer on them too much when tuning for the most part , just gradually go up and down to watch what the a/f is and what throttle opening. Giving it too much throttle without the accel pump just gives a good 'ol bog/hesitation and then mild acceleration . Otherwise they run normal , just no snappy throttle . .
  19. jjktmrider

    Wideband install on MRD tips

    I like my bikes a tad rich at idle(12.0-12.5) and then lean out to13.-13.7 at part throttle(the most used for cruising thus better mileage) then going a little richer as it goes up . It's best to disable the accel pump for tuning and include it at the very end so your not getting false readings . .
  20. jjktmrider

    DRZ400 weight loss

    Exactly ! I have a TE510 and it sucks going 60-65mph on a 2 lane and a semi blows by or a 20-30mph crosswind (downright scary if both) . Makes a long ride tiring whereas my KLX650s are "overweight" but they're comfortable when getting hit by the wind . The DRZ is inbetween and not bad as is . I can see it being nicer offroad if lighter definitely or if a person doesn't ride 2 lane highways much or in high'ish crosswinds . .
  21. jjktmrider

    Sparking issue

    I get many of my bolts from here https://www.mcmaster.com/standard-socket-head-screws ,if not Fastenal . I like the blue dyed versions so it's an easy visual to know what they are . Warning if you get an Electrosport stator that 2 wires , black and white, will need to be swapped to work in the DRZ . just swap them in the connector , I believe they're all like that from that company not "some work-some need to be swapped" . Otherwise I don't think they are a bad stator to use, not a lot of complaints these days other than the wire thing . .
  22. jjktmrider

    Cam Chain with Master Link

    I'd prefer to replace those flywheel bolts with new ones since certain manuals stated too high torque specs plus go a step higher grade . Never know if the flywheel had been replaced or taken off and the guy torqued the shit out of them and started stretching them . New is known to be good , old a question , be different if it only had a couple thousand miles and likely hadn't been touched . I'd never do red loctite ,blue with clean threads and torqued properly will be plenty and less trouble if you need to change the stator down the road . .
  23. jjktmrider

    Wheel bearing seal warp9 front wheel

    You can see the drive tangs sticking out so they are intended for the speedo drive . If your switching from a 21" front to a 17 sm wheel you can get the speedo drive from a sm model and have your speedometer accurate yet . I ziptie the drive in place when swapping from 21 to 17 to keep the drives correct and not get a bunch of dirt inside during storage . .
  24. jjktmrider

    462cc build. cdi upgrades

    I got a Dynatech this summer and it does give a little depending on which curve used . I can use certain curves depending which fuel I have to use with high compression . If you go with the adjustable option(cable) you can customize your own curve . . .
  25. jjktmrider

    Kickstart problem (looking for help)

    I don't think the DRZ has the same issue as some of the other bikes I've gotten used to as far as kicking back when starting, which is the only way to shear those bolts off, not from coming loose( singular bolt in the case of the DRZ), look at the pic and tell me how a loose bolt will shear off plus take a chunk out of the case, there isn't pressure on it unless something jams the mechanism hard against it, would need to see the bolt . Several models(XT's, XR/XL's, DR's, even some newer CRF's, ect..) were known for stubbornness and one wrong move or mistep in starting and it took out those stops(not everytime) .I had one with a bad cdi that would throw the spark below the couple hundred rpms threshold and it could fire when your just finding tdc, thought my ankle broke . Ripped the stop right out and broke the case , motor had never been apart from new. That angle on the stop is designed to separate the 2 parts that have the teeth but when a person has his foot on the lever trying to start it or turn it over , it keeps pressure on the teeth and they don't pop apart as designed , thus it shears the bolts and takes a chunk out . 2 other bikes I had guys brought in had the same thing , they were new to the kicker starting and didn't have them set on tdc before kicking over , crunch ! More bikes out there than DRZ's .