jjktmrider

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Everything posted by jjktmrider

  1. The XT's have 520 chains as well , the front sprockets are rather thin depending on brand . I think JT's have a wider hub along with one or 2 others , they're much better for the shaft splines . You had the bore redone ? Didn't the TT's have an aluminum cylinder with the bore plated ? The XT's have sleeves , what is the letters on the cylinder on the top fin ? .
  2. It keeps the Evil Knievel types from faceplanting into the front of the landing ramp because the bike stumbled and fell on its face as he hit the takeoff ramp . .
  3. I can't remember if the stock bars used a wedge system or not but you may be able to install the bolt and tap it inward to unlock the wedge then work the whole thing out . If it's just threaded solid ned you can simply drill and tap it out to the 8mm x 1.25mm of the Zeta bolts . You'll notice the Zeta guard shape will not come out square with the bar end , that's normal for them for some stupid reason and don't bother trying to bend it more , they're made of a very good tempered aluminum alloy. I have 5 of them and have mounted them on 7 or 8 different bars now , they haven't fit great on any , all should have been bent more to come out square to the bar end . I even emailed them to ask what is the name of that single bar that they'll actually fit , just got the response that they haven't heard of any fitment issues like that before , aka typical BS and no interest in fixing. .
  4. That's the same way I tension mine , finger tight turning it over, then start to listen and just barely a bit more, done . There is no doohickey on the klx motor , that's a KLR thingy . .
  5. http://www.jetsrus.com/individual_parts/021_045_su.html , shipping would negate making it worth buying unless they're willing to just throw it in a letter envelope , but doubtful .
  6. Aw come on , be the guinea pig to report if they work ! .
  7. I've had all mine done at Fasthead , usually just a week or 2 but at this time of year it's bad . They're usually done at around $250, but I send them the valves , springs, and keepers . .
  8. There's always a way of doing this , I can think of 2 ways right now to keep the cap setup but have a drain screw accessible from the side and not be some big honking thing hanging down .There are many bikes that taking that drain cap out is 2-3 times harder than the DRZ , my klx's for one no way to do it still in the bike, a person has to think more open, outside this one model on stuff like this . Most products come from someone thinking and actually doing it , while others quickly dismiss them saying they're fine with it as is . How many of those products are those same people now using daily and can't live without? (and the same ones I knew would negative comment the second I posted it)? I did figure it would be a limited client base option if I were to do it. .
  9. I see another possible product to make .Hmmmm .
  10. That Microsquirt should do both , cut spark and fuel(since you have efi),plus I believe it has a port for an air shifter so you can just hit the up or down button while keeping throttle pinned if you so choose . No need for a shift lever except maybe starting from a stop. .
  11. No KLR needs a 148 main jet , someone had that puppy blowing black smoke. Mine had 142 and it was rich but I used it all winter below 0ºF . The stock drz carb is a Mikuni , the KLR carb is a kehien so no mixing parts . If I could get past the zoning red tape for installing my cnc I could already have an option for you to use a Harley CV40 with accel pump , will be better than the klr carb. .
  12. I'd say it's a good chance that's all that has happened . Nothing 100% sure of course , but it's not a shape of something that's normally inside. .
  13. Those are chips , as in metal cutting chips , however most inside is aluminum . Could be from the frame oil tank , they drill the holes after several of the pieces are welded on . Shavings from the crank when it was turned ?(not quit as likely) .
  14. A little late but with these having the oil in the frame you need to add maybe 2/3 of the oil then start it up for maybe 20-30sec. , shut down and finish filling . Your putting all the oil in the frame but the total amount listed in the manual is counting the 3/4 quart or so that stays in the bottom of the motor . There is an anti drain valve inline down by the oil pump so the oil in the frame shouldn't drain down into the motor so you'll never get the new oil into the motor without starting and having the pump push it in there . I prefer to add maybe 1/2 quart in the motor through one of the valve inspection ports plus I soak the new filter with oil before installing it , helps get oil flowing faster . Remember when checking oil level you should always run it for a couple minutes , shut it off and wait about 1 or 2 minutes, then check level in the frame . If you don't always check shortly after it has been run the anti drain valve can let oil leak past so the level in the tank may show lower , however in reality the oil is down in the motor . Anytime I have the clutch cover off I put a new anti drain valve seal and spring so mine always work , then I don't need to run the motor before checking . .
  15. stator

    The Yamaha 600's, 660 , and 700 bikes and atv's don't have the starter gear's sprag bearing pinned ,plus only use 4 bolts , though they're 8mm. IIRC Honda xl/xr's don't have any pins either , the bolts hold them fine, but again 8mm instead of 6mm but still only 4. Really the DRZ isn't any different than most of the Japaneses ds bikes and atvs , yet they don't have such a common issue as the z, even Suzuki's own LTR450/RMZ450 which has the exact same setup doesn't suffer from it. .
  16. The scoops always break on the klr's where they mount to the radiators , I think they are made out of a different type of plastic since they fade really bad compared to any of the klx's I've seen . .
  17. Get a manual tensioner before riding it again !! This is one of those motors that it is an absolute must to get rid of the automatic one due to destroyed motor when(not if) it fails . They have a goofy system as it is , even the klr has tensioner issues due to Kawasaki going way overboard on the complexity of the balancer systems. .
  18. Well that's a loaded answer . in general CV carbs flow less air and are slower reacting to throttle input, aka slow throttle response . Back when I wrote that I was also having issues with both my KLX's having high idles once they were warmed up and all the jetting changes I did never stopped them . One stopsign/stoplight I'd have to keep dragging the clutch so the motor wouldn't be screaming at 4-5K while the very next it would sit and idle at 1800-1900 perfectly .I've jetted a hundred bikes and atvs over the years and know my way around these carbs and what symptoms are a sign of what and how to fix them . Never had the troubles with high idling as I do with both of my KLX's , I assumed it had to do with those CV carbs , one of which was getting quite worn out. After all that I bought a Lectron carb to try and it didn't fit the flat bottom tank without a ton of mods so I never rode it much due to a small bottle for gas but the same idle issue came up , though I never did tune it , just moved on to FCR carbs . I ended up picking up 2 FCR40's and spent a year and a 1/2 tuning and still have the ridiculous high idle issue as always , sometimes I think worse. Normally switching from a CV carb to a FCR carb results in a bike having better power , snappier throttle and all around funner to ride . While my KLX's do seem to be snappier and have better power I don't feel it's at all worth the swap unless your doing other power mods. Plus you have to love spending hours and hours and hours taking the plastics off just to get the carb off so you can rejet , which fcr's have 1000 options and are a PITA to get right without a 5 gas analyzer on a dyno so you can see exactly what each change has done. Right now I have 1 KLX that runs pretty good , starts fairly easy and gets so-so gas mileage(41-44'ish)should be better, but still will idle high(3500rpms) once It get warmed up , but not always and sometimes will idle fine for 10 seconds , then go screaming , next time will idle for 5 minutes fine, no common sense in the whole issue whatsoever. The other KLX is just a temperamental bastard , usually starts ok , sometimes takes a lot of cranking and full choke with 30 accelpump squirts(fcrs have a pump that squirts fuel into the intake when you twist the throttle fast) like it can't get enough gas to start , yet the 2 air/fuel meters I've had on it show it's running 9.5-10.00 a/f ratio at idle which is ridiculously rich. Once it starts it'll idle ok, but at too low rpm really, although it'll start screaming when warmed up same as the other . It gets a crappy 30-34mpg fuel mileage , surprisingly was the same with the cv carb, which it shouldn't have they generally get better gas mileage than fcr's. Both bikes feel kind of sluggish when giving it full on throttle to pass a vehicle or so for being a 650cc compared to my other 600-650's but do get up and go when I want to . Given all that I really don't know what is the right carb for these bikes , the dozens of bikes and atv's I've personally owned have all been easily tuned perfectly and all changes are easily felt , any issue were resolved with common solutions that make sense, but these things have me beat . 5 different carbs and 2 separate bikes all do the same thing , screaming idle (but not always) once warmed up . .
  19. yup , Star Tron will take care of the storage issue for several months even 6 months it'll start fine but I'd put some fresh gas in asap as well. I add a bit more than they call for but it works great . Stabil doesn't . .
  20. Yup this is why a inline filter of some sort is always a wise idea . As long as those on the petcock are in good shape not much more is needed , however a person needs to take a peek at them regularly or add a filter before the carb as a backup . Look inside a normal 5 gal gas can ,ever see one without junk/particles at the bottom ? That mostly comes from the station nozzles , same stuffs goes into your bikes tanks, flush the gas cans yearly as well . .
  21. Look at adjusting the Rekluse , it must be dragging enough to not allow the gears to mesh . I know my '08 will always jump out of gear unless I shift with a good firm effort . They don't seem to fully engage as easy as others . .
  22. They'll break same as the originals will . Those radiator scoops are just in a rough spot and with the couple hundred pounds that are slamming them into the ground not much will hold up . Just don't drop it . .
  23. No I didn't , I just bought 2 Battery Tender LiFe-PO4's to replace the shot batteries , maybe should've waited. .
  24. I now have 2 dead -new- lithium batteries from running low on volts , ONCE . My Ballistic bought in Dec. dies 2 weeks later from a key left on at work , this last month the Shorie I bought in Nov. dies from my DRZ sitting for 3-1/2weeks without being started, it tends drains a battery down in about 2-3weeks and the crappy weather I hadn't spent much time riding . The battery had 8.2 volts and won't charge , even with my "special" Lithium charger. The Ballistic may be coming back, it does now hold a charge but is weak. I'm getting sick of those damn fragile batteries but not many lead batteries that actually fit in these ds bikes are strong enough to start high comp motors ,plus cold'ish temp, plus longer cranking sometimes, ect... takes nothing to drain them down quickly to the point of spinning to slow to start. .
  25. Have your wife follow you with the truck and go the other way to be able to run longer before letting off the gas. The first thing I'd do is take the sparkplug out and 1) check for spark and 2) see if it's wet or dry . That will tell you which system is messing up. Pop open the fuel tank cap to make sure the vent is working. .