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About anathema

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    TT Gold Member

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  • Location
    British Columbia
  • Interests
    electronics, biking
  1. anathema

    '03 Steel frame gas tank

    Thread is old I know, anyone know if the TT store can get the safari 4.4 ?
  2. anathema

    Mounting Handguards on 7/8 Pro Tapers

    That's why it is best to get triple clamp mounts. Works on everything with some fightin
  3. anathema

    2007 wr450f electric start

    I've done some serious clearcut type stop and go, restart the bike every 30 seconds riding lately and from full to dead my starter has never once gotten stuck.
  4. Hey I posted before asking about the AP, but thought I'd make a new thread for this since the request is quite a bit different. I just am hoping to get some starting jetting numbers from Eddie or someone knowledgeable. I will prove what I can via Eddie's form: 1)2004 WR450F 2) 2000-4500 feet elevation riding. 77-86 degrees Fahrenheit Riding is in mountains, usually dry hard packed stuff, woods riding, single track. I'm probably classed as an intermediate rider. 3) As to mods, the pipe is (I believe) a YZ pipe of the same era. Here is a pic: http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2059/3526777643_439bd9c40f_b.jpg The intake is a new twin-air filter. The snorkel pulled. 4) I just ordered the JD kit, but haven't yet pulled the carb apart, so not sure on current jetting. It will eventually be the JD needle though (but red or blue?) and basically where every you guys start me off. Not looking for magic here, just some numbers to get me going. Thanks everyone!
  5. anathema

    AP Timing/Bog

    Thanks William. Yeah the plan is to, sometime this week, pull the carb and check what jetting numbers there are, and see what needs to be done. If I can't get a leak jet, I may just solder the thing closed so nothing gets back into the bowl. Then just use a stopper screw or similar mod to shorten the duration until it does what I want.
  6. Well, I have a new (to me) 2004 WR450F and since it is a couple weeks until I can ride, I am, of course, taking the bike apart and playing around. First bike behavior: At idle(neutral), if I crack the throttle, the bike almost dies, or does die. While riding if I crack the throttle (and I'm talking full closed to full open) the bike bogs severely and nearly dies, but has not actually stalled yet. In almost all the riding I have tried on this bike I have not really niced a lot of situations where I do this, so has not really been any bogging, but because it may occur when I need it to not occur, and I like to tinker, so I decided to check my AP. I removed the air boot from the bike to get a good look (and camera) into the intake bell. After frame by framing the squirt is almost exactly 0.37 seconds. After the fade is with o-ring mod. I tried it just for fun, it made no difference at all. PS: Bike/riding facts to help any suggestions: 1) 2004 WR450F 2) Riding is from 2000 to 4500 feet, usually about 25-30c or 77-86f. Riding is all woods riding..similar to most PNW/rocky mountain riding in the USA. 3) Not sure if airbox is modded, if not I may mod it by pulling any snorkle etc. The filter is a new twinair. Pipe is (I BELIEVE) a YZ pipe for the same era machine. Pic here: http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2059/3526777643_439bd9c40f_b.jpg 4) Don't know current jetting, but once I spin the carb and check I will post back. 5)The bog is what needs to be cured, as above. AP timing, etc. 6) Not sure how it changes with temp, if at all. Will try to post back on this as well. Thanks for any help anyone, especially eddie, who was always a godsend when I had my DRZ.
  7. Agreed, but there are 2 things to consider.. 1. The tire is meant to be run tubeless, they have ridges inside the tire to grip the rim. 2. Spinning on the rim will not hurt anything afaik. It will just spin a bit and keep on truckin. What I think I'll do is try it out, but bring a tube. If it doesn't work, just unmount the tire, throw the tube in, and keep the fun going! I'll report back here or in a new thread.
  8. Supply was a big negative on the tubliss for me. I really apreciate all the replies about tubliss, but am really hoping for some info on using the rim sealing method. Is there no way to make a rimlock not leak? Is the tire without a rimlock just doomed to sit there and spin on the rim? Or will it just spin a little bit which may be ok since it will not tear any valve stem off. Anyone on that?
  9. anathema

    My new to me 04 WR450

    The right side seems to just be plugged off, so I just tip the bike if I run out, gets me another half gallon or so Thanks on the can, at least now I know! Also, never sit on a trials tire..OUCH it grabs you.
  10. anathema

    My new to me 04 WR450

    Hey guys I went down to the USA when the canadian dollar was at parity (A while ago I know, but I tore my rotator cuff and havent ridden since). Picked it up for $3500. The bike was worth closer to 5000$ here at the time so I thought it worked out well for me. Anyways, just a hello to the WR forum and a question.. What exhaust is this? Clearly not the stock or stock with GYTR..anyone know? YZ? Something weird? Also curious what tank and capacity it is on there?: Anyways, already learned a lot! Grey wire mod done, and some other freebies. It has a $1000 racetech gold valve with respring etc suspension job, so it rides REALLY nice. Also got a new rear trials tire and will be checking out how that feels when my TT order comes in!
  11. anathema

    **ALERT** Stolen 05 GasGas FSE450 in Kelowna

    Hey guys just updating this thread, sorry I know it has been a while. I never found the bike, got any leads, or had the police even call me back. I guess he got away with it! And here I am making the payments. Oops! On the plus side, I scrimped, saved, and borrowed a thousand bucks from my parents(which is now paid back), but when the dollar was at parity between USA and Can, I ended up going down and importing a 2004 WR450. Was about $3500 plus border fees. This bike is normally closer to $5000 in Canada so that made me happy. It has a $1000 racetech goldvalve and respring full suspension job, and some other small mods. I REALLY appreciate everyone's time effort, and well wishes for this.
  12. Well all of the street people, and people from advrider, etc not a single person has complained of leaking, and the street machines probably have a lot more spinning force on the tire considering the increased traction. The flip side to that is that they are running much higher pressure. Maybe I will just seal over the rim lock hole and try it, chalk/mark my tires and see how much spin really happens on a tubeless trials tire with no rim lock, and if it does spin, will it flatten the tire. I will of course bring a tube along, and I always have my T6 spoons with me when I ride.
  13. No one has done this with a rim lock?
  14. Do you not think it would be possible to seal the rim lock shaft with washer and oring?
  15. I have seen it thank you. To me this actually seems less reliable. You need a 110psi tube within your tire to keep it on the bead. If you puncture it you're essentially hooped. This way, its just silicone sealing the spoke nipples (with stickers as mentioned in that link to allow adjusting of spokes). Either way that product is currently almost impossible to get and very expensive, at least in comparison to this. Thats why I'm checking for good reasons why NOT to do this before I give it a shot (when I get my new spoons in a week or two).