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About Ging3rDedMan

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  1. So one more question, would a 50 amp stator power a headlight, taillight, and blinkers so I could drive this puppy on the roads?
  2. I'm thinking of going with the lowering link (bike sits a bit high for me), pro 304 muffler and pipe, V3 reeds, black plastics with the Acerbis heavy duty hand guards, and a rear tool pack and I think this thing will last me a while, considering it will only be trail ridden in Idaho. I'll probably end up upgrading to the 650L when this becomes too little bike for me. But I'm sure it may be a little while so I got some time to save up and restore a 650L. Man, can't wait to get out there and raise some hell on the trails!
  3. Alright, so I just ordered an exterior pipe joint (mine cracked) with a seal, complete gasket kit, carb rebuild kit, and all the PROPER tools to torque everything and measure everything down (1/4, 3/8, and 1/2 in drive torque wrenches with adapter and a digital caliper with LCD screen for the floats). When I get back from this weekend I am going to tear it apart and slowly and CORRECTLY start rebuilding this bad boy and HOPEFULLY it'll run like new! I just need new transmission oil (4-stroke royal purple) and some assembly lube for all of the gaskets and I'll be in business. Everything after is simply a WANT not a must have, but I am thinking I am going to go with the all black Acerbis plastics with the heavy duty hand guards for trail riding. But, this weekend will have to wait, I am going to Washington to do some crabbing and HOPEFULLY shark fishing in the Deception Pass area. Should be a good time with friends and family and away from the frustration of this bike lol. And as frustrating as it's been, when that puppy started cranking over on it's own, it was such a relief! Thanks everyone, I'll continue to post until this thing is tip-top.
  4. My dream bike is an XR650L, BUT I gotta work my way up lol. Yeah, still waiting on the seal kit in the mail. Some ass hat ran over my mail box and they wouldn't deliver it until I fixed it. So yeah, but I am CLOSE, I can feel it, once I rebuild that carb and get some new gaskets on there, maybe buy a new pipe bomb or just replace the block seal, I think it'll be in tip top shape.
  5. Well, it is definitely something to think about. I found out where the spring goes spring, BB, then kickstand screw (lower screw on the actual arm itself). Can't find the BB, so I am just going to order off a site along with some aftermarket reeds and a fresh gasket kit, gonna go back through and reseal everything because I only did it "by feel", so hopefully one of these actions should fix whatever my problem is. Air screw DOES affect it, however, it only makes it scream more. I think I am done for now until I can get these kits in, I don't want to ruin my top end, because it is still good. Couple hours over a weekend and she should be riding like new!
  6. Alright, it's DEFINITELY not the float lol, had the same problem with fuel spilling out, due to high float level and the bowl overflowing, unless I need to readjust the float valve? It seems that when I mess with the float level though, it overflows...any carb expertise is welcome.
  7. There was a spring with my air screw, when I took it out, it seemed to idle a bit lower...any thoughts? Float? Needle?
  8. I do have slack in my cable. The slide DOES bottom out, there is a TINY gap (MAYBE less than 1/16 of an inch). Does a float adjustment need to be made, they fall pretty far (more than 7.5 mm that's for sure).
  9. It's a 2002 Honda CR125R. So I got her running again, she kicks pretty much every time. The gears were just me not rocking it back and forth to give her some catch to the gears. I have a HUGE exhaust leak from both the front of my pipe bomb and the muffler itself, might invest in a new one of these since my old one is dented pretty bad and now the block that rests against the exhaust port on the engine is cracked (pipe bomb not the head), all fixable stuff. Now, is it correct in saying that a high idle with all my adjustor knobs turned down means my float is too extended? I guess my thinking on it is sometimes I start it up and it sounds perfect, but then it quickly gains idle. My thinking is that as the float raises, more fuel is being pumped into the system, am I wrong here? What could be the cause of a seriously high idle with all my adjustments tuned down?
  10. I'll be getting a float gauge soon, among other tools to make sure everything is out and then put together PROPERLY instead of jerry rigging it because of lack of tools. So probably by next week I should have everything that I'll need to tear down and rebuild a Honda (top and bottom end).
  11. Okay, yeah, definitely not the pawl springs, but I really don't see anything else that resembles them. Anyway, I'll try rocking the bike back and forth to "assist" it in finding a gear since I was only doing it after I had added the oil and didn't really move the bike. I'll take the carb apart AGAIN lol to adjust the float. I'll buy a float gauge before I attempt this however, so I can be sure it is set at the correct height (7.5mm I believe).
  12. Alright, so I have the crank case apart. That spring looks like this. From what I can tell from thins link it looks like number 15 - Pawl Plunger Spring, but am not too sure, since the comparison is hard to do. Anyway, also, the top brass looking nut in the pic was loose, think that could have anything to do with not being able to shift out of first? It FELT like it was just shy of hitting the sweet spot to the next gear...check out the pic. Any more good advice?
  13. Cool, yeah, it may be it, because it's been acting a little funny since then (gear wise). It's a really stiff spring about 1/4 of an inch long, brass. I'll find out what it is then I'll report as usual, other than that, everything is ready to be put back together then hall BALLS!
  14. Cool, yeah, I now have a problem with the gears, they were fine before (didn't mess with anything in the crank case this time) but it only has first and neutral. So, I think I am going to open up the crank case and put everything back together according to the service manual. Don't want to mess anything up in there.
  15. Alright, I adjusted the float and the valve, no more fuel coming out...changed the spark plug turned the choke on, stood on the bike for my moment of truth. As I kicked out the kick stand and laid my foot upon it, my heart raced, my hands were damp with sweat in the anticipation that all this COULDN'T possibly be for nothing. I stood atop my steed and laid into the kickstand, AND....SHE FIRED RIGHT UP! :) High idle of course. So now, I am adjusting the idle and it's either high as hell or it just dies, maybe I'm not letting it warm up enough choked to get the engine warm enough? Thoughts? I've used the major adjustment knob, then the minor and then the carb adjustor itself, all's either not enough to keep it running or too much...and when I pull on the throttle it just dies, which would tell me (according to my weed eater) that it isn't warmed up enough yet for it to idle not choked. Am I correct? And lastly, THANK YOU GUYS SO MUCH! This is a huge accomplishment for me, being that it has been my first time tearing apart a motor and trouble shooting it. So for the jack pot 3/4 of a billion dollar question, what was the problem? Well, I believe it was the two screws that were missing (that held the reed valve on) there were four screws and I overlooked two of them, something must have came up that tore my attention away when working on the bike. *FACEPALM* But seriously, thank you so much for all the trouble shooting tips, I have gained a SHIT TON of knowledge from this endeavor, and it's all thanks to you guys chiming in with your knowledge.