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About brobbo

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  1. brobbo

    shock bottoming

    I have on my Honda - then again I completely over jumped a jump by a country mile (Something like 80ft) - Skid mark on the fender (and my pants), folded the bars down and tore of the skid plate clean off. Some how still rode out! But up until that point, the tire did not touch the fender. HS and LS dampening aside - be sure to pay attention to the rebound circuit. The more you add rebound, more compression will be added too (vis versa etc).
  2. brobbo

    Toby Price

    Nope - Laia came 11th I believe. Someone posted a short clip of her taking the shears straight down the middle of his head. He did get a kiss out of it though.
  3. brobbo

    race tech mid valve 3 numbers?

    In an effort to complete the picture for those still unsure of the other numbers and stumble across this thread. : "(3) .11x20x8" (3) = qty 3 .11 = Thickness (mm) 20 = Outside Diameter (mm) 8 = Inside diameter (mm)
  4. brobbo

    2012 CRF250R

    when you rev in neutral - does it do the same thing?
  5. brobbo

    2012 CRF250R Dual Exhaust

    Unlikely you will find anything. More over, the main frame and the sub-frame spec differ from the 2010-2013 platform to the 2014-2018 platforms (and now the current 2019). Meaning, even if you could retro fit the exhaust mid-pipe through the older frame, you would also have to do modifications to the sub-frame and plastics to get the 2nd muffler to fit. In my opinion - not worth it.
  6. brobbo

    CRF250R changes per year

    2010-2013 - pretty much the same bike. Also the first iteration of EFI.
  7. brobbo

    KYB Inner Cartridge (forks)

    Thanks gents - now that I have the parts I have finally started to do the rebuild. Yeah - that 2 part seal head is a bit of a hassle to separate. Lots of heat and an impact gun seems to do the trick. To future readers - to confirm, if you look at the 3rd pic, it will separate at the parting line just left of my thumb (opposite end to the threads). Another tip - when removing the seal head from the dampening tube (1st pic) - be sure to clamp the tube about 2 inches below the seal head. I found that it will pop-off way easier when it does not have the additional pressure of the v-block pressing on the threads.
  8. Need some guidance on some KYB forks. In short, the inner cartridges are pissing oil from the bottom seal. So, have some spares on order from Race tech. In the meantime, I finally was able to disassemble the lower bolt off the the cartridge unit; Quick notes on that just in case some others stumble upon this thread at a later time: Bought a large 17mm Allan wrench at local shop. Grinded it to fit the 16mm hex at the bottom of the unit. Then Cut it off, so that a I have a very stubby Hex about 2 inches (half of it a grinded 16mm, the other 17mm) Then attached it to my impact gun (Dewalt 20v Impact gun), added lots of heat and it finally came off. Now how the heck to I get the seal out. What I suspect I can see is the seal, with Teflon slider holding it in place. How do I get the old seal out?
  9. choke issues - would be the first place I'd start. Its an 07 - so a carb rebuild would be advised regardless.
  10. brobbo

    2013 CRF250r has tank removal

    For you never. For those of us who have to put our bike away before it snows, that is when I usually depressurize the EFI. That and dump the whats left in the tank.
  11. brobbo

    2013 CRF250r has tank removal

    When you disconnect the fuel line, their is a bit of residual fuel in there. But after that, the tank will not leak out. No need to replace fuel lines after 30hrs. If you just want to add an hour meter, the tank is attached by cable, so that you can "hang" the tank to one side with out stressing the actual fuel lines themselves (make sure the tank is not full), Do your work, then plop it back into position.
  12. Terry you-da-man. Ill have buy you a beer when I get to Australia for New-years 2020/2021. Seriously - thanks for the info.
  13. so, to be clear- as per the diagram above, it would be the "Compression crossover" shim. That being the case- I have .10x28 shim in place now. (where as the stock config had a .15x37 and a .15x23 then it went into the tapered High speed stack)
  14. Sorry gents for belaboring this, but with respect to the "clamp shim" I cant seem to get a concise understanding of it or its expected placement. As per below figure - where should it go. My initial guess is the "Spacing Shim" just before the "Compression base plate"
  15. my thoughts exactly - does any one know the purpose of the bleed hole - other than to rob resistance from both the comp and rebound stroke? typically what thickness are they?