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Blizard375

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About Blizard375

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    Alabama
  1. Probably a dumber question than it sounds, but after being on 4 strokes for about 11 years and moving to a 2 stroke, I was curious as to what oil to run in the engine? And I've heard rather bad things about the Motorex oil in the manuals ruining bikes over time and would prefer to stay away from it if at all possible... First off, what is a good weight to use? I live in the south so we usually don't see much cold weather below 25-30 degrees if it's a bad winter. And second, would using the same oil I used on my 450XCF hurt the engine? I usually ran Rotella 15w-40 and changed it out every 2 rides since it's not the most "expensive" brand so to speak.
  2. Blizard375

    Has anyone rode a new 250 yet

    I got ahold of my 17 back in October, and thanks to work have only ridden it 3 times (yay for the adult life), but after being on a 14 450xcf and 4 strokes years before that, as well as having tested my mentor's 300 and 250 (both 13 models with proper jetting), I can't preach how much you'd actually enjoy the 17. If you got on your 14 and rode, then jumped to the 17, you're more than likely never going to want to ride the 14 again! The counterbalance in the engine is really that amazing! The only downside to it is depending on your region, you're more than likely gonna have to get it rejetted. Luckily, my suspension guy just so happens to be a jetting guy too, so I never had to touch the carb when I picked it up. And if you're not familiar with the AER forks, I highly suggest you find a suspension guy who has actually tested and has riders testing for him to talk and get a firm understanding of a ballpark air pressure setup. And no, I definitely don't mean call WP cause as much as they know their stuff, it still doesn't transfer to the common day rider who (like myself) only gets to ride every couple months when there's some free time. With that being said, with those being the only two downsides really for the 17, it's well worth the money so to speak. But hey, everyone is entitled to their own opinions!
  3. Rocky Mountain and Motosport both have them on sale right now. I haven't checked BTO Sports but I'm sure they do as well.
  4. If you're still in the market, and right now being Christmas and sales would be a lot better, then I recommend either a Troy Lee Helmet that's on sale or possibly a Shoei on sale. Just invested in a Shoei a few days ago and got it for a steal at $329 ( $250 off sticker!) and it looks good as well as feels good. Just a thought.
  5. Just to reply to the issue, I ended up having the shop I bought it from go back over it under a "extended" warranty. The issue was a defective ECU, which caused the bike to keep pulling power even when the bike was shut off. Not sure if that's a typical issue, but just wanted to name the answer to the issue.
  6. Blizard375

    Why do people use mx bikes in the woods?

    Having rode MX bikes in the woods my whole riding career and test rode off road bikes, I think it matters more on the rider's personal preference. I love having the torque there if I need it on an MX bike, and say for instance I see a big, nasty, mud rutted hill. I can usually shift to 3rd on an MX bike and hit it around mid to high rpms and may have to shift down to 2nd (on my 250F) and have little to no issue. I have recently acquired a 14 KTM 450XCF and it's basically a MX motor on a offroad frame. Had to add a couple mods (rekluse 3.0 clutch, skid plate, radiator fan, 52 tooth rear sprocket, revalved suspension) to get it to ride like you'd want a woods bike to ride and to be honest, it's probably the best bike I've ever ridden. I have the power option for everything, from mud to sand to hills and rocks, open trails to tight single track. My mentor rides the xcfw models, and I attempted to ride his 350 but I hated every bit of that bike with a passion. It always seemed super heavy and I could never manage the power cause I couldn't get it to wind out. But he can outride me in an enduro style trail all day long. It's all in your preference to how you ride. Most guys nowadays (at least in these parts down south) all ride MX bikes with mods on it. Rarely do I see many guys on off road bikes show up at races, but there is the minority who prefer it. That's their bread and butter, and I respect that. But you will NEVER see me on another off road bike that's tuned that wide of a ratio. THOSE THINGS SUCK! Hahahaha
  7. Can you define UST please?
  8. Would this also affect the stalling issue? A friend of mine who races GNCCs told me they had to retune his FI to run more of a "race mode" rather than the stock and that fixed some of it. Any experiences with that?
  9. I bought a brand new 14 about 2 months ago, and have ridden it about 4 times. I was supposed to race yesterday and on the start line, the battery just up and quit. But that's not the only issue. The other issues I'm having are: - Can't bump start the bike whenever I'm riding - Bike stalls anytime I start falling below mid range in the revs - Battery has been charged like manual calls for, but will not hold a charge apparently. If anyone has any answers with these issues, PLEASE let me know. The whole reason I bought a brand new KTM was to avoid the issue of having to constantly work on a brand new bike, and I've heard nothing but good things about it, but this is unacceptable in my opinion and I want to know how to fix it to where it can actually be ridden. Thanks
  10. Blizard375

    When to replace top end on a '10?

    I've had several people tell me different things as far as needing to replace the top end. I've got around 60 hrs on the bike, the first 15 before I bought it was basically put riding, no overriding or stress put on it, but from then on have been from me. Not saying I didn't ride it hard cause I'm sure in some places I've rode it extremely hard. But for the most part, my riding style doesn't really require too much top end riding (riding in a higher gear and staying between low and mid power). I know that they RECOMMEND to replace them every 25 hrs or so, but I figured that would apply to guys who race MX and put a lot of stress on the motor from revving so much. With that said and how my style of riding is, should I really need to replace the piston now? Or can I wait a few more hrs.
  11. I have rode a 450 and time wise, I'm quicker on the 250 and it doesn't make me as tired. But I'm not sure if it was due to not being comfortable or just set up not being set up for me personally. I'll def look into the specs on the parts and see if they are interchangeable. If I could move the suspension and tank, then that'll save me a huge amount. Plus I just had the suspension redone and I'd hate to not get my use out of it.
  12. I race that class due to the comp. I'm not fast enough to race the A classes yet, and the 250 B class is slower than Open B. Plus its challenging to race a bunch of 300s,350s, and 450s on a 250.
  13. Blizard375

    Efi harescramble starts.

    After moving from the ol' 06 to the new EFI, I figured out it's a whole different ball game. The 06 I would have to rev the engine up, kill it, twist the throttle 6-8 times and it would start first kick in neutral. From experimenting with the EFI, I've yet to find a system for "in gear" starts, but as far as neutral goes, I think I may have an answer. Just start up your bike when about 2 rows up starts and let it idle til they give the kill sign. DO NOT REV THE ENGINE. If you get it hot, you're as good as done. Repeat procedure for row in front of you. Let it pur like a kitten til they give the sign. No revs again, just kill it. Find TDC and a smooth kick will guarantee it will fire right up. Unless you have god like reflexes on shifting, you won't get the hole shot, but it will be consistent top 3-5 starts and that's a good starting point for any HS.
  14. I have a 2010 crf250R and I've spent the money converting it to my liking in the woods (tank, suspension revalve, protection,etc..). I've been seriously considering making the swap to a 450 due to the displacement issue in the class I'm racing (Open . Just want some input on this from people who've been through this transition and how hard it was to adapt, as well as any recommendations on bikes and which may be the easiest to convert. And for the record, I do not want to by a trail ready bike. Race model is the only option (XCF, CRF-R, YZF,etc...)
  15. We raced the Loretta Lynn's GNCC back in 2009 or 10 and I was a C class rider. Maybe 2 months on big bikes and I knew it was a bad idea. The MX track was part of the race and it had a 90 berm into a double-double-stupid ridiculous tabletop. I hit the double-double and my hand got hung on the throttle after I got squirrely on the landing and I ended up scrubbing the table and clearing it. I caught everyone's attention cause the whole time my bike was bouncing off the rev limiter. Ahhh, the only time whiskey throttle was ever a good thing. It made me feel better knowing I was only 1 out of the 8 guys that cleared it lol
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