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About Jedmeister

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  1. Hey AUSmoker, Just thought i'd weigh in with my own experiences. Firstly I just want to say, lets face it, if you're at the pointy end of top level competition, then the latest, greatest, lightest, most powerful, best suspended bike that money can buy might be worth it. For most of us it's just wank factor and all the talk about it gives me the shits. I've got a WR400 that I rebuilt myself last year to 426 specs (parts from the states/ was cheaper to rebuild as 426 than 400). I rode it in the Finke enduro last year without a steering damper or steg pegs and finished in front of more than 200 blokes that all had newer/faster/lighter/more powerful bikes. I think you've made the right decision to rebuild. I weighed up the exact same options and given that even though the bike is 15 years old it still has WAY more potential than I could ever make use of in the bush, decided it was better to spend $1500 on parts and have a new engine, rather than sell it for peanuts and buy something else with all sorts of potential problems. (my rebuild came out of 4th pinion gear shedding it's teeth!) I broke my engine in out at Finke, ride in the bush once or twice a month and have done about 6000k's in motard trim riding to and from work and my old girl hasn't missed a beat. I look forward to hearing about how the rebuild goes, best of luck to you mate. Cheers, Jed Also, while the carb is off, inspect the little plate on the throttle slide for cracks. Mine broke a corner off and it went through the engine at high speed. No valve and little piston/cylinder damage done! Very lucky!
  2. Hey eltrontx, I have a '98 WR400 that I recently rebuilt with 426 bits. I run it in the bush once or twice a month, but it does most of its hours in motard trim with 17 inch rims. I originally had 15/50 final gearing gearing on it but the revs were WAY to high for crusing the highway (awesome for blasting around below 80kmph though). Went down to 15/44 next. That brought revs at 100kmph (60mph) down to about 6600, but was still a bit high for my liking (a little vibey through the bars and pegs). The engine in my bike is most happy between 5000 and 6000rpm so a further gearing drop to 15/39 has solved that issue. I've put about 8000km on it on the pavement and about 1500km dirt, with a fair bit of that at pretty high revs with out issue (and oil changes every 500-1000km). By the way, i did the rebuild because fourth gear lost a few teeth, the 400 cylinder/piston were in pretty reasonable condition when I replaced them. If I were you I wouldn't hesitate to blast short trips at high revs. Cheers, Jed Also, check out to work out what revs your engine will be doing at your intended speed and make a decision from there.
  3. Have you investigated the metal pieces? A while back I found fine metal in my oil filter. As I torn down the engine I found metal pieces stuck to the magnet in the stator pickup. Turned out to be the forth pinion gear shedding it's teeth. If I was you I'd investigate further before hitting the trails!
  4. Hey indyhooligan, I've just done what you're talking about. 5 months back I found metal in the oil filter after forth gears started making a nasty noise. I pulled the engine out and stripped it down. As I love the bike and had spent money replacing swing arm/ shock bearings etc, I decided to do the full rebuild with upgrade to 426. When I priced it up, was going to cost about $12 more to go 426 instead of 400. I got new forth gears and replaced the crank/rod/piston/cylinder/main bearings/seals/gaskets etc. got it all back together last weekend and it fired up 2nd kick! I'm stoked with the result. Definitely has more power than old 400! If you've got any specific q's I'd be happy to help. I used oem parts from and partzilla. Cost me about $1500 shipped to Australia.
  5. good call rossonza! mechanicals first, bling later!
  6. Hmmm, that sucks. Guess I won't be riding on the weekend then. The search continues.
  7. Wow! that is one very generalised question! Lets see, replace everything that is dull/scratched with new/blingy items. There is no limit other than your budget. I have a 98' WR400 too and the previous owner spent heaps on plastics etc. ie wr450 headlight, new seat cover, yz400 pipe/side number plates/rear fender, custom graphics and I have just rebuilt it as a 426. When it's in motard trim with chrome 17" rims with gold talon hubs and a 320mm front disk, no one can pick what it is! reliability wise - change the oil and filter/check the valve clearances/if it starts/idles/runs ok then just ride it and enjoy the power! ps. keep an ear out for a noise in the gearbox, my just ate forth pinion gear, hence the 426 rebuild!
  8. hey YZF Shifter, Thanks for sharing your knowedge. When you say bigger, are you talking about finger length being longer for the extra plates? Or is it wider across? Or both? I have found a (supposedly) good 426 basket locally and will go and have a look at it tomorrow after work. Have also been offered a complete wr250 clutch? I wish I wasn't in a hurry but im preparing to ride the finke enduro in 6 weeks time and haven't had a minute in the saddle for months. I'm getting a little nervous and just want to get some k's on the bike and myself, not to mention, it's my first home done rebuild and i'm keen to see how my wrench work turns out! Cheers for your input, Jed
  9. Can any of you WR gurus tell me if I can use a WR/YZ 426/450/250 clutch basket in my 98' WR400 (newly rebuilt as a 426)? I broke a finger off my basket while trying to torque it up without the special tool (too impatient to wait). I found another one on ebay and it arrived today with the end of a finger broken off! Arrrrrrghhhhh! The seller tells me he has a WR250 basket I can have if it fits. I have done part number searches and they are very similar across all models and years (between 98 and 03 anyway. If any of you gents knows for sure, I would love to hear from you!
  10. Hahaha! Well said wallrat!
  11. it really depends on what you mean by supermoto. Are you talking tight gocart track supermoto/more open high speed supermoto or just commuting to work etc. I have a WR400 that does both weekend trail riding and a 35km each way commute to work (largely motorway speeds of 100-110kmh). it came with 15/50 motard gearing but that was way!!! to short for highway speeds. I am currently running 15/44, but it's still a little buzzy at 100/110 ie just above 6000 rpm. I am looking at going taller again - 15 or 16 / 39 or 40 to bring the revs down to the mid 5000's. The bike feels more at ease in in that range while still being torquey enough for overtaking etc.
  12. I'm about to attempt to finish the Finke Enduro in central Australia and have been offered the use of a Scotts steering damper. I just need to find a mount kit that fits both my bike and my diminishing budget. I have searched online and the only option I've come up with is a new one from Scotts but it's US$150+ shipping and that's more than I have to spend. I'm hoping one of you gents have one laying around and will be happy to part with it for a good price! Cheers, Jed PS. Does anyone know if I'm allowed to post this in the YZ400/426/450 section as I'm assuming that a YZ mount kit would be the same?
  13. Thats interesting to know ehoward381, as I am about to convert my 99 400 to 426. I have researched extensively and thought I had all the information required. I have ordered the parts and everything. My rebuild started with an "about to grenade" 4th pinion gear, and will include crank (because the machined teeth on the left side crank half for timing chain were chewed! i wish I knew how), bearings, rod, piston, cylinder, new 4th gears, oil pump gears and all seals/gaskets/lock washers. I guess I'll find out when I go to put it all together ehoward381, but will I just need the 426 crank gear and keyway or new balance shaft gear as well. rossonza, i was going to replace the left hand crank half only and get my local shop to balance it up with the original rh half, with new big end bearing/rod/piston/cylinder, but then I discoveded that the crank is sold and an assembly with big end pin/bearing/rod for around the same money, so i went with all new! Sounds like ive got further issues to sort out! Bugger!
  14. Hey old triumph guy, Flyandride has got my brain ticking over and I think I may have been leading you astray with my previous posts. If memory serves me (and I feel it may have let me down in the above), it was the power connection I had for the vapor that was causing the rev readout to be WAY high. I had it connected to some random wire that was providing power to something around headlight/headstem. When the vapor was disconnected from external power and running on its own battery, the rev count was correct, but when I tried to power it from the bike (ie to run background lighting) the rev counter went haywire! Flyandride is correct in that the rev counter should be connected to the orange wire, I believe the tech guy is correct in saying that the issue is being created by electrical noise. It was the POWER connection to the green/black wires on the stator to ecu(? Black box) loom that sorted out the problem! Humble apologies for having led you a little ways down the garden path! And many thanks to the guys on TT like Flyandride who actually know what they are talking about! Cheers, Jed