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About notenuffridetime

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    TT Member

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    All motorcycles, camping w/ family, simple carpentry and home improvement, full size chevy blazers

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  1. notenuffridetime

    2004 drz400e

    Seems a little pricey, an E can be legal depending on your location, mine is! My area would probably put that bike (without seeing it) in the 2800.00 range or less with the milage. The E didn't come with a computer/odometer, to my knowledge, so unless the owner is original and replaced the resettable 999max odometer, on day one, or logged every reset and milage there is an element of guessing going on, I would imagine.
  2. notenuffridetime

    Did it sit too long? Oil and coolant leak

    Hello everyone, its been a while and besides a few start ups between numerous carb removals the 400E has sat for awhile. I think I finally got the carb all figured out, needed a new oring on the slide and float needle rebuild to include the needle bowl(???? technical name ) With all the help from here on the jetting and disconnecting the TPS it ran smoother than I can remember. Now the bad news, once at operating temperature the water pump was leaking, Ive done the rebuild/RTV fix in a previous life so that wont be too difficult if I can remember, but when I pulled the timing cover adjustment plug (I wanted to double check timing after a shim adjustment, and make sure that wasn't part of my problem before I tried to start it with the carb all put back together and installed.) I had a decent amount of oil behind the plug. I set TDC and checked timing, oil dripping out the whole time(is this normal???? If I remember correctly I had drained the oil to check and adjust valves previously so I dont think I would have seen any oil), and everything was good!! Put the plug back in, added a little oil and fired the old gal up ('02 DRZ400E). Like I said she ran great till I noticed the coolant and upon inspection oil coming from the plug????? Is this a result of seals drying out, finally getting the bike up to operating temp etc?? Any help and parts/labor sequence for replacing what might be causing my oil leak would be great, or just directing me to an existing thread I might have missed would be great too! Or ultimately just pointing out I'm an idiot would be OK, and cheaper hopefully! too Thanks
  3. notenuffridetime

    hand deflectors?

    Tusk guards, full aluminum protection with two different size deflectors available, standard and mud. Great product on all my bikes. Available through RMATVMC.
  4. notenuffridetime

    Exhaust melting side panel

    You could try some self adhesive gas tank heat shield and line the inside of your panel with it. Dont know if it will be stout enough but my original DRZ plastic had a similar product on it already when I purchased it used. Hope that helps....guessing that maybe you overheated or possibly burned out some packing material on your "road trip" and you are generating more heat through the can than you used to???? You could re pack and see if you still melt the plastic.
  5. notenuffridetime

    Its been asked, help on an E jetting my head is spinning

    Thanks for the input I will start with a ride and figured id have to lean it out...... just not into carbs enough yet to know things like the needle swap/altitude relationship. I will check my notes and re post the current settings. Thanks agian!!!
  6. notenuffridetime

    Its been asked, help on an E jetting my head is spinning

    Dont know if anyone will check this thread but after much turmoil (since last June) and not being able to get the family relocated to Virginia, I am back in Colorado and have gotten the DRZ unpacked and un mothballed!!! My question is where should I start on jetting for the majority of riding around 6000-9000 feet. Rarely would be below 5000 and sometimes above 10,000 Thanks for any help!!!
  7. notenuffridetime

    Tank Talk: Acerbis/IMS/Clarke/Safari?

    just a little input.... 3rd owner so I belive I have an IMS 4.6ish???? gallon natural tank....great tank and stout radiator protection (tried and tested, many times!! LOL). I tried non vented graphics and some accent (Krylon fusion for plastic) spay paint (unprimed, tank empty but obviously years of fuel in tank), I didnt know about the boiling water trick. None of this had a long life or adhered to the tank well. I then tried rust-oleum plastic primer and plastic spray paint(2 coats primer, 3 coats yellow). Tank was cleaned (degreaser, light sanding and alchohol wipe down) and vented for a couple weeks before painting, again no knowledge of boiling water! :-(, this appeared excellent and gave a great finish but within 2 months of fuel in tank paint was bubbling ALOT! With alot of sanding (dremel, palm sander, and hand) , as the primer seemed to really bond in a few places, I just decided to try rust-oleum (spray can) truck bed coating....I did not prime it as I was unimpressed with prior results, and with 3 months of fuel in tank so far so good!!!!! My sanding was pretty aggressive so the whole surface was scuffed / sanded
  8. notenuffridetime

    Several Questions regarding sprockets, trail tech, and ACCT

    There was a post a while ago started by cornwallace77 on tires for drz, about 40 replies if I remember, I run michelin cross ac10, love them but I might be on pavement 10%
  9. notenuffridetime

    Its been asked, help on an E jetting my head is spinning

    Great. Thanks guys!!!! Will do that and re adjust and hopefully have it purring again!! (Now that you refreshed my memory I do remember reading about this on fuel screws but it didnt click on the FCR/ flex jet install at the time!!)
  10. notenuffridetime

    Its been asked, help on an E jetting my head is spinning

    Also, I am off tomorrow so I will hopefully post a video to help in the diagnostics!!
  11. notenuffridetime

    Its been asked, help on an E jetting my head is spinning

    Trouble in paradise!!! What does it mean when my idle stays really high after chopping the throtle?? It will then die or really bog if I give it more throtle after settling at idle....... as a added technical issue I did not mention on the initial re-assemble I could not get the flex jet to seat with the bowl on and had to loosen the bowl (remove it actually) seat it and then back it out 2.25. After my initial success I did tweak the idle and flex jet, to get my previously mentioned results, but I'm wondering if the flex jet is 'binding' as I percieved little change and today when I ran it was not up to snuff????? HELP
  12. notenuffridetime

    Its been asked, help on an E jetting my head is spinning

    Well the EMN needle finally got here and with the flex jet installed and jetting guide lines followed the DRZ is running as good as ever and maybe even a little better..... very short warm up time and then starts right up with one stab of the magic button. Im at about 2.25/2.375 turns out and have very little decel popping!!!! No bog at acceleration either!!!! Thanks to everyone and especially to Craigo!!!!! Note: tried to upload a video from my phone of the bike running but there is a file capadibility issue?...... maybe I can get it done directly from the tablet!?
  13. notenuffridetime

    Primary Drive RDO O-ring chain

    Great chain for the KDX and a great price
  14. notenuffridetime

    Primary Drive RDO O-ring chain

    1 review

    PRODUCT DETAILS Sprocket kits include the following Stock size Primary Drive steel front sprocket Stock size Primary Drive steel rear sprocket Stock size Primary Drive O-Ring chain All front and rear sprockets are manufactured to O.E.M., specs using high grade hardened steel . All match original equipment exactly for perfect fit and size . The RDO O-Ring chain provides outstanding durability and long wear characteristics . Features solid bushings with high quality pin material, o-rings and lubricant. Average tensile strength 7,850 lbs.
  15. notenuffridetime

    Supersprox Stealth Sprocket

    Actually a 49 tooth aluminum....sharp looking and great performance